Mon 8th Feb - We start the journey south to Boracay today, to arrive there on the
12th February. Getting there has some options on the route. We have decided to
head to the western side of Mindoro at first, which meant getting to Batangas
first. There isn't an easy way to do this other than catching an FX. Opted for
the way we had been the past few times by departing from Pala-Pala terminal.
150 pesos for the 2½ hour journey. The main problem is they don't leave until
they have 10 passengers, which took over an hour, so despite getting up at 8am
for an early start, we didn't leave the terminal until 11:15am.
The
route was different than previous occasions, and went back through Tagaytay and
then south through Lemerey, Taal and Bauan, which is an average small town but
with many pretty flowers and shrubs making the old wooden houses look
especially attractive, to Batangas Pier, arriving at terminal II at 1:30pm.
This route made a change and was very pretty. It also passed 'Fantasy Kingdom',
dominated by its Disney looking fairy castle and fake tree houses standing atop
a sturdy looking stone rampart.
There
is only one company, Montenegro Shipping lines going to Abra De Ilog, the port for the western side of Mindoro, costing
208pesos plus 30 pesos terminal fee. Luckily we were sailing at 2pm, so didn't
have long to wait. The sun was shining, the temperature was hot, and we were on
holiday...what more can you ask for?
Whilst
we waited for the boat to depart we toured the boat and went into the 'Pilot
House'. The captain was happy for us to play around and take photos and said we
could go in any time we wanted during the trip.
Once
the ship set sail it was just a case if sit back, relax and enjoy the warm sea
breezes...and listen to the sound of a couple of roosters mixed in with the
throbbing of the engine....yep...a passenger had four raucous roosters in
wicker baskets. The boat docked earlier than expected at 4pm. The port of Abra
de Ilog is just a small place with one accommodation option a few hundred
metres out of the port. There was a bus (Dimple star) that was going to San
Jose via Sablayan, where we were heading, but it was full and so we had to look
at another way of getting there. A waiting Minivan took us to Mamburao for 80
pesos. We could have used a Jeepney for 40 pesos but they would have been
noisy. At Mamburao the van stopped at the 'bus' terminal...a standard dirt
patch. The bus to Sablayan was due to leave at 5:30pm and take 2 hours for 113
pesos. Time enough to pick up a few snacks for the journey. We had made up
sandwiches at home to eat on the boat, but it was going to be late when we got
to our destination for the day.
For
most of the journey the road is unpaved, and the dust thrown up by the transport
is thick and dry. Many wear face scarves to stop being choked. From Abra de
Ilog to Mamburao the terrain was dominated by Maize crops. This seemed to
change from Mamburao to rice and some sweet corn. Another noticeable thing was
how often Gloria Macapagal Arroyo's name appeared on boards advertising the
road improvement project. It would have been better to spend more money on the
project than the advertising I think.
It
was harvest time for maize and a common sight was long strips of orange corn kernels
drying in the sun. I guessed that it would subsequently be made into corn
flour, but it is also used for chicken feed and popcorn.
As
the sun faded around 6pm, it was nice to see groups of folk spread outside
their homes cooling off after a day in the sun. Children were on their way home
from school; some sat on the roofs of the passing tricycles. Carabao still
working away in the fields....a different pace of life.
Arrived
at what we thought was Sablayan at about 7pm, but it turned out to be the edge
of the Sablayan region for a meal break. A few folks told us it was only a
couple of minutes further to the city proper. 30 minutes later after we left,
and we were still on the most horrendous of dirt track roads. It was so bad
that it passed through a few river beds. The nonchalant driver was so used to
it that he was busy texting at the same time. We could see no sign of life
anywhere...total darkness. Then out of nowhere, Shiera thought she saw the city
up ahead. I laughed when I told her it was an illuminated truck coming towards
us.
Stayed
at the La Sofia Apartelle on the National road through town. A fan room for 250
Pesos a night room only. They wanted 750 for a room with TV or 950 including
aircon.
As
it was late we had to get out quick and find somewhere to eat. A few places
open with a reasonable choice of local meals. No alcohol on sale. The town
plaza was being used by a group of youths practicing for a Valentine's evening
dance show at the Astrodome to one side of it. So we sat and watched them for a
while before having a look around the locale. There was another budget hotel
choice a little further down the road from the Sofia, the Luxe hotel, so we
took a look at the rooms, which seemed nicer and the same price.
Tue 9th Feb - After a typical Filipino breakfast at a local café, we
decided to move to the Luxe hotel before getting on with the day's activities.
After settling in, it was quick out to the market (Sabayan Occidental Mindoro
Mall) to get some fruit and drinks. Kaimito (star apple) is in season so got
some, plus bananas and Mango. The plan was to visit an unusual local attraction
at the Sabayan Penal colony. Not your everyday tourist visit! This particular
place has an acclaim of having the inmates developing various craft and useful rehabilitation
skills that would hopefully sustain them following their release back into the
free world. A permit is required, which can be obtained through the eco-tourism
office in the sports complex, but we didn't do that. Instead, we jumped on a
family shared Jeepney at the market to the entrance of the Penal colony track.
Then followed a lengthy discussion with the entrance officer haggling the price
along with a tricycle driver to get onto the track leading to the colony. It
was a further 6km from there to the actual colony. But it wasn't over
yet....some paperwork to fill in at the reception building; Next we had to see
the assistant superintendant at his house. More questions on why
we were there, the purpose of what we wanted to do; plenty of questions. Then
further haggling with the tricycle driver as we needed to later on get to
Pasagui colony; one of the four that form part of this group totaling 1,600
prisoners. After almost an hour in the heat and detailed discussions etc, we
got in and had paid 100 pesos for the 'Entrance fee' plus the 'Environmental
fee' and had forms signed by the superintendant, plus receipts. After
that....off we go...no escort, just please ourselves!
It
turned out to be a little fiasco as we made our way to the actual prison
section, to be allowed into the 'Sub-compound'...more books to sign and our
papers scrutinized a couple of times. We were then told to wait....after half
an hour a 'guide' arrived. He looked at our papers again and said we couldn't
go any further and refused us entry. After all that hassle and waiting, and we
couldn't actually go in to the main prison compound because our permit didn't
actually state so...and it had been written by the assistant superintendant
too! Annoyed, we had to leave and walk around outside the main compound, which
was sort of pointless...or so we thought! After a short wait back at the
reception building, the officer pointed across a grass area to a group of
'Mangyan' people, so we went to look. These are the local tribe people from the
mountains. They travel down to the local markets to barter their goods. They
are dark skinned and one looked like an Australian Aborigine in a way. They
speak a different language to the other locals although they can converse in a
little Tagalog. They were very shy to me, which was no surprise. A group of
locals were threshing and de-podding Monggo beans, which are cooked and used in
a variety of ways.
One
of the main points to note about a visit to this penal colony, is that the
inmates are categorized into their length of sentence according to Minimum
(below 10 years), Medium (10 to 20 years) and Maximum (above 20 years) inmates,
and wear T-Shirts printed as such. There seemed to be plenty of 'Maximum'
T-Shirts walking around the open grounds, which surprised me. Apparently, many
of the casual labour on the site, who aren't actually prisoners, also wear
these T-shirts as they don't have enough clothing to go around. Not sure I
understand this as it wouldn't seem sensible, so think there was a communication
mistake?
Our
tricycle driver arrived at 3:30pm to take us to Pasugui colony, around 6 or 7km
away. The whole day had been spent on the most horrendous and dusty dirt tracks
and we were feeling grubby and yuk.
When
we arrived at Pasugui, more books to sign and people to show the forms to, but
this time we were allowed into the main prison. This sub-division differs from
the main one in that it specializes in crafts. The inmates make a variety of
wooden and bamboo items which are sold across the Philippines. Most of the
profits go to the government, but some does go to the inmate responsible, which
they can use to buy cigarettes or extra treats. A group of them had cought a
large snake which they were happy for me to play with. It was still digesting a
small chicken, which was half way down its body and still alive!
We
had a guide to show us around, and there didn't seem to be any problems with us
going anywhere we wanted. Another group was bagging up a crop of dried maize
kernels. They also sell the crops they have grown for further revenue. We spoke
to one inmate...a maximum inmate...who was on year 19 of his sentence, but had
spent a total of 29 years in prison on 5 life sentences! He is due to be
released next year, and hopes to set up a small business using the skills he
has learnt whilst in prison. I wished him well and asked that he made sure he
never came back! To be honest, the perimeter of this prison is so flimsy that I
don't see it as any deterrent for anyone wanting to escape. But they have never
had anyone attempting to leave. I am not surprised as I think they enjoy
themselves too much. Many leave with skills they didn't have before and get fed
well enough each day on their 50 pesos allowance plus whatever they supplement
themselves with through their work. Dinner was being cooked whilst we were
there, and a group of inmates were playing pool and playing with a pet monkey.
After a hard day in the sun, the snake was hung asleep on the entrance gate,
busy digesting its chicken dinner.
Another
bumpy tricycle ride back to the main highway track where I paid off the driver
the 400 pesos I had agreed for the day, and we were lucky to meet up with a
passing Jeepney back to town. Well, it would have been straight back to town
had they not diverted to offload a mass of building materials at a house in a
small village. It took about 40 minutes for them to offload and reorganize
everything before we set off again.
The
sun was setting on the way back to town and we got a lovely view of the golden
sky through the intermittent palm trees before we reached town. Made straight
for the water front to catch the last of the sun before it vanished behind the
headland and made some enquiries at a boat operator for a trip to Pandan Island
tomorrow. Pandan is a small white sand resort island a short ride away. There
are huts of various types available and diving facilities on the world famous
Apo reef. Possible that we may go for a picnic trip for the day. There is an
entrance fee for the island too.
It
was a pleasure to take a shower after we got back to the hotel as we had both
gathered a layer of gritty dirt during the day. Clothes had to be washed too.
Dinner
wasn't up to much as there isn't much choice here. No foreign alternatives,
just local fayre, and not of great standard I have to say, but then again they
only cater for locals most of the time.
Wed 10th Feb - After a bad night's sleep due to traffic noise passing on
the main highway, we decided to pack up early and head to the waterfront to
find breakfast and sort out the trip to Pandan Island. The nice lady at the
Information centre past Emily's hotel was very helpful. There are other boat
operators further along the waterfront path.
After
basic breakfast at Emily's hotel (awful rooms here by the way), we decided to
go to the market to get provisions for our picnic trip. After a change of mind
we settled on do-it-ourselves barbeque, so picked up a nice fish for 90 pesos,
some corn for 3 pesos and some fruits.
The
tide was low, so we had to wait until 10:30am. Whilst we were waiting, she asked us if we
were interested in looking at some land/property to buy so we went to look. For
around 250,000 pesos we saw a waterfront lot with a basic box that was being
re-roofed but not much space. Almost no beach front and what there was, had
grey grit sand, so was no interest. To be honest, Sablayan is dead. There is
nothing here to attract tourism other than Pandan Island and there are better
alternatives elsewhere in the Philippines. The eateries are poor and the roads
around it are bad. As for the long term, I think they will try to develop it,
but the west coast of Mindoro needs a lot of work to make it viable until they
could get the boat out to sea.
We set off to Pandan shortly after 10:30am and
it only takes about 15 minutes before we arrived. As advertised, it is a white
sand beach, privately owned idyllic island. Clear waters shallow enough for snorkeling
and a small bar with food available. We headed off to find out own spot for
some sunbathing and swimming. It was quiet and so we had a stretch of beach to
ourselves for an hour or so. We did our barbeque in a sand pit and it was
really tasty. Like previous barbeques, we built from coconut leaves and scrap
branches. Simple and easy.
Off for a walk around the island and got
talking to a local who took us on a walk to see some land for sale. 5 hectares
for about a half million pesos, owned by one of the hotel owners in town. It
covered an area called white lagoon and Spanish noose. Not that interesting as
most of it couldn't be used for anything, and there was almost no beach.
Back at the bar and a drink before being
collected for return to the mainland. To visit the island you have to pay an
'Entrance fee' of 120 pesos a head at the bar. The boat trip had cost 500 pesos
for the two of us return.
After showering back at the boat office we
left to catch the bus to San Jose, which arrived at 4:15pm (hourly on average)
113 pesos each. A spine jarring and backside numbing 3 hours along almost
continuous dirt track, with almost nothing to say other than oowww...my bum
hurt afterwards!
We arrived in San Jose in the dark to what was
reported as a dire place you really don't want to stop in unless you have to.
Well, we had to and...yep it is dire. We spent ages with a tricycle driver
trying to find somewhere to stay and ended up about 3km out of town at what was
later referred to as a brothel by the tricycle drivers...but we didn't know
that earlier of course, but there was no space anywhere else. There was a
convention in town and all good rooms were full...only the rubbish was left.
The 'Dalampasigan Hotel' (sea shore hotel in tagalong) has to be reported as
being the direst place I have had the misfortune to have stayed in for a long
time. At 300 pesos a night complete with non-flushing turds and walls you don't
want to touch, plus continuous karaoke from the numerous cottage kubos across
the road....just horrible. All eateries in the area were closed and so we had
to get a tricycle back into town to eat. A few choices, but with toilets you
don't want to use for health reasons. Tired, we got a tricycle back out of town
quickly as it has nothing to offer. Got stung for 50 pesos for the trip back to
the hotel, which the receptionist thought was funny as it should only have been
10 pesos local rate.
There is one attraction here, at the 'Tamaraw
conservation centre', but it opens at 8am and the last Jeepney out of here to
Roxas leaves at 9am, and so we wouldn't have time to visit it. Means that we
will get up early and be out of here as fast as we can to somewhere nicer we
hope. Sorry San Jose...
Thu 11th Feb - Neither of us slept last night. Terrible place. The room
was stuffy and Shiera needed the fan on, which was noisy. By 6am we had had
enough and were wrecked and just wanted to get out of here. Also, I thought
that I heard aircraft engine noises close by. Sure enough, we hadn't realized
by arriving in the dark, that we were right next to the airport. Whilst we
waited for a tricycle it gave a few minutes to check out the locale. We were on
a stretch called 'Aroma beach', which was actually nice and clean grey gritty
sand. The 'cottages' that lined the beach must be heaving at weekends as they
are all Karaoke bars, which must compete for volume I guess?
It
really helps to have some advance knowledge when you travel in a country like
this. I had read about a weekly sailing direct from San Jose to Caticlan in
Panay, but it turns out that it is three times weekly now on Monday, Wednesday
and Sunday. So we were out of luck with that. The main option was to go from
Roxas in Oriental Mindoro. Apparently there was only Jeepneys doing the route
twice a day at 6am and 9am for 250 pesos. It turned out that there are also
aircon minivans leaving at 7am and 10am for 350 pesos, leaving from a different
part of town. We were lucky enough to get to the minivan terminal in time to be
the last two seats (8-seater) on the 7am trip via Balulacao. No time to get
anything to eat, so had to settle on some 'Cobra' energy drink to wake us up
and sustain us until we reached Balulacao in about 90 minutes, where we should
be able to get some breakfast.
The
road is much the same as all western Minoro roads....crap! So the option of a
minivan instead of 5 hours on a Jeepney is well worth the extra 100 pesos.
Arrived
at Roxas Dangay pier at 10:45am with the Starlight ferry sailing at 11am. No
time to breathe, just rush to the ticket office to buy tickets (330 pesos each)
and then the terminal fee at the port entrance gate of 15 pesos each. Straight
on to the ferry at 10:50 and away within 5 minutes. It was empty today and
there was refurbishing work going on with the constant drone of a metal
grinder. The journey to Caticalan is about 4 hours, and was not going to be a
pleasant one. We remembered the last time we came here in January 16th 2009. It
was night time and we had taken a bus from Manila through to Kalibo for the
Ati-Atihan festival, so we didn’t get to see much of the port by daylight. What
we did remember was the strings of Garlic hung up for sale and the Balut eggs….
The breeze was warm and welcome as we left port.
Last
year, following Kalibo we went to Boracay on 18th January and it will be
interesting to compare the experience from then. This time it is Valentine's
and the main reason for our trip. Accommodation was difficult to book, so
expect it to be different....how much different will become clearer later!
After
arriving at Caticlan, the next step is to catch a Bangka to Cagban on Boracay.
25 pesos for the ticket plus the 50 peso environmental fee, plus the 50 peso
terminal fee each. Only takes 10 minutes or less and we were over in Cagban.
Like last time the tricycle operators approach offering a 'Special' trip for
100 pesos or more. Ignore them and go for the shared yellow tricycles at 20
pesos each. There is a fare board showing the rates and so you don't get ripped
off, like it used to happen.
I
had booked into Melinda's Garden near to boat station 3, so the tricycle driver
dropped us near and only had a couple of hundred metres to walk. At the quieter
end of the beach, it was a nice choice of location than where we were the last
time.
Cocktails
on the beach whilst we watched the sun set on a long day....perfect sky and
perfect location....beautiful perfect white sand of Boracay beach...sat under
palm trees...reggae music playing in the background...sipping a mai tai, with
my gorgeous Shiera....what more could I ask for!
I
love Boracay as my favourite place in the Philippines. Wall to wall quality
restaurants and bars. Lots of live music along the front, including a Filipino
rock band doing their Bon Jovi hits. The infamous 'D Mall' had grown since our
last visit and was crammed with great shops and restos to saunter around for a
while.
Fri 12th Feb - A good night's sleep for a change in our bamboo Nipa hut.
No traffic noises...no roosters....nothing. My had head had hit the pillow and I
must have been out in seconds.
With
the past few days having been active, I decided to chill and do almost nothing
today, so we headed for the beach and relaxed. The sea here is perfectly clear
and safe. Touts are around trying to sell everything from tours to boat rides,
but they aren't pushy. Being the most popular destination for foreign tourists
means that everything is westernized, and everyone speaks English. Lily white
bodies mixed in with lobster pink over baked quick-tan types, mixed with the
perfect coloured locals, who are the envy of the foreigners who will never
achieve their natural colour.
Everything
is over-priced. Fruit that we would pay 10 pesos in Silang, becomes 80 pesos
here. Motorbike hire that should be 400 pesos a day, becomes 550 pesos for 2
hours. Internet that should be 15 pesos per hour, becomes 70 pesos.
Accommodation is upto four times what it should be. But Boracay is the ultimate
in desirable destinations for foreigners and locals alike, and is bound to
reflect it. A 1,400 sq metre lot with business on it on the water front is
selling for 75million pesos (approx 1 million pounds). A 1-room furnished
rented apartment in D-mall for 24,000 pesos a month, which actually isn't bad
considering the location.
Sat 13th Feb - Pre- V-day we woke after a good night of undisturbed
sleep to the gentle sounds of the breeze in the surrounding trees. Had a nice
chat with Horst, the owner about the business and the present renovation work
that is taking much longer then they anticipated.
We
had planned to go to the north of the island, but randomly walked off to the
east to see what was there. Spotted the Kingfisher Farm area which went on for
some way so went inside. Turned out to have some apartments for rent so looked
around (17,000, 24,000 and 32,000 per month depending on size). It would
certainly be worth staying here for a longer period to fully explore rather
than staying in expensive accommodation. With some possibilities ahead for
returning, we carried on towards Bulabog beach via thr D-Mall complex where we
had a great Indian lunch at 'Crafty's restaurant on the top floor of the Mall.
The location is good for a view of both Bulabog and white beach areas. It ws
obvious from here that the west is calm, and the east is windy, with the sky
full of colourful sails from the Kite-surfing that it is famed for.
With
a full stomach and feeling good, we headed to Bulabog through the native
village area. As soon as you reach the beach, it is an attack of activity. From
one end to the other, it was crammed with kite-surfers whizzing back and forth.
Some advanced types doing summersaults and pirouettes in the air. Great to
watch for a while. And then my stomach started making grumbling
noises....without much further warning I had to make a dash for the CR. Over
the next hour I had to make a number of uncomfortable visits. A while later Shiera's
stomach started to behave the same, so we headed back to the apartment by
tricycle as quick as we could. Must have been something we both ate.
Along
the front at Bulabog there are a few posh resorts (7-Stones to mention one),
plus ATVs to hire for 800 to 1,200 per hour. Which I think is a ridiculous
price.
'All
you can eat' Dinner at Camilla for 250 peso including Mongolian section.
Sun 14th Feb - Valentine's day! A romantic start to the day with a
little room hunting for next few days and some nice lounging around on the
beach. A nice romantic treat was a cruise on the ‘Bon Voyage’ Bangka for an
hour (500 pesos plus 50 peso registration fee). We had booked a special
Valentine's dinner at Camilla's resort. It was supposed to be a quiet romantic
evening, but the band was so loud. Fortunately the food was good
This
was a special day in more than one was….I Proposed to Shiera!
What
would you like me to be she said as we were playing a little game over dinner?
That was an ideal time for me to say….”well, I would like you to be my
wife….Will you marry me?” …..so sweet eh! As if by magic, and with perfect
timing…fireworks went off a short way down the beach. So we stood and watched
the fireworks whilst taking in the warm sea breeze and lovely
atmosphere…aahhhh….
Mon 15th Feb - Moved to Sanders
White beach resort for 1000 pesos, which is on the ‘Villa de Oro’ resort.
One major item on my list of things to do this visit was ‘Zorbing’. Awesome
fun...Two goes at it…one with harness where we were both strapped inside the
3meter clear plastic ball and rolled down the hill, followed by a the Hydro
version, where we were inside the ball again, but this time free to roll around
with it filled with water and rolled down the hill. 1320 pesos for the two of
us. Fantastic fun and something we would both do again…and again…
After
being dropped back into town and indulging in a smoothie at a place that claims
to be the best in town, we walked along to Willy's rock, which is being rebuilt
due to partial collapse. The statue in the shrine had also been recently
replaced.
Following
another delicious smoothie we had a matched pair of red caps made with our
names on....how sweet is that....must be nuts!
250 peso Buffet at La Carmela in the evening with Mongolian
section. Being Chinese new year (Kung Hei Fat Choi and all that stuff) there
was a screen playing cheesy Chinese music with on-screen lyrics in Mandarin.
Tue 16th
Feb - Moving
on today to Ilo-ilo by bus from Caticlan port. Breakfast
at the clean Alice Hotel. 20 pesos each to get shared tricycle to Cagban Jetty. 30 Pesos boat fee (Montenegro shipping) plus 50
pesos terminal fee. Local price is 25 pesos and no terminal fee. We enquired
about staying on the island for a few months and we can get a pass from the
Barangay to avoid paying the terminal fee.
Ceres Liner bus opposite terminal. 312 pesos for 5hr trip to
Iloilo via Kalibo and Roxas. We only had to wait 10 minutes before it set off
at 11am.
Was amusing as Shiera had just told people about our
engagement. Not been on-line at all!
Ceres bus arrived at Tagbac terminal around
4:45pm, which is about 7km from the city proper. Could have got a 9 peso
Jeepney to SM Mall and then another Jeepney from there, but we would have to
wait a while for it to fill up. Tricycles wanted 200 pesos direct...no chance. A metered taxi
cost us 105 pesos to arrive in comfort.
We decided to start looking on the General
Luna Street, which turned out to be a good plan as we got sorted fairly
quickly. The Highway 21 Hotel was nice and clean with a choice of double rooms
for around 1000 pesos. Next door at the Sarabia Manor Hotel and convention
centre, we got an economy double for 750 peso promo rate including the use of a
swimming pool. Whilst the room wasn't as clean, the pool was enough of a
compensation to make us decide to stay. Within 5 minutes of checking in we were
out to the pool for a welcome dip before the light faded.
There was another Hotel tucked away behind the
Sarabia Manor Called the Sarabia Charter Pension, and it sounded good in the
guidebook. But it didn't have access to the pool, so it was off the list. We
took a look at it in the evening and it looked cozy set around a small
courtyard, but wasn't that much of a saving for less facilities.
At the pool the Poolside cafe served the most
pathetic attempt at a cappuccino coffee. We sent it back and the replacement
was just as bad. I guess they had no idea what good coffee supposed to taste
like.
Having been a bit unimpressed by the drive
through Iloilo city on the way to the hotel, we modified our plan, and decided
to go to Guimaras Island tomorrow and shorten our time in Iloilo.
During today's journey down here, we put our
minds to the date of our wedding. The most obvious special dates of 10th
October 2010 at 10am and 11th November at 11am were likely to cause problems
with being busy everywhere. Tried a place we knew and they were booked on both
dates already. After our return home this turned out to be impossible anyway,
due to legal issues with our respective government policies. More on that
another time.
Found a local resto in the evening for a nice
meal and glass of wine. The area seemed well served by eateries had we chosen
to stay longer.
Wed 17th Feb – Before we left Ilo-Ilo we had some time to
spare, so took a taxi for 50 pesos to Jaro Plaza where the largest church in
Iloilo stands. Some interesting street food on offer and an student graduation
event in action in the main central hall. A walk around the market was pleasant
as it was selling some unusual local vegetable produce. Coconut and rice cakes
for 20 pesos. Freshly cooked. It is amazing when you travel around a country
like this how much variety there is in the produce available in each locale,
all of it beautiful and displayed to perfection in most cases.
Back in the taxi and hecked out of Sarabia
Manor and got another taxi to port for 40 pesos.
15 minute Bangka to Guimaras 13 pesos each to
Hoskyn port near to Jordan aboard the Sunshine boat. On arrival the usual flock
of Tricycle and Jeepney drivers touting for business. They show a fixed rate
sheet to make haggling a bit more difficult. We agreed on 200 pesos for a trip
to our accommodation at the Valle Verde resort, with a stop along the way at
the Mango Research station. Guimaras is famous for its Mangos all over the
Philippines. In fact we decided not to buy any in Iloilo market (70 pesos per
kilo) as we expected to be falling over them on the island. The reality is that
we couldn't find any to buy. The main season is in April although they are
widely available off the island now.
The climb to the research station beyond Piñas
is a steep one, and plied by many Jeepneys, so it is cheap to get around the
main roads. we arrived shortly after noon, and they were at lunch. There wasn't
anything to see other than some information about the pest research they are
doing. No mangoes as they had already been picked. we moved on after about 20
minutes. Further up the road is the factory of the Trappist monks, where they
manufacture foods based on Mango, Guava, and Banana etc. The aroma of sweet
Mangoes laced the air to whet our appetite for the most delicious of fruits
around. They had just sterilized the floors so couldn't let us into the
production area. Didn't matter as one of the head guys told us about what they
made there. A short way further along the road is the Trappist monk shop,
selling some of the produce from the factory as well as other local produce
from the monastery. One of the products made me laugh...Virginal soap!
Yes...soap for women to wash their vaginal areas, to make the skin fresh, and
tighten up the skin just like a virgin! Now....how come this is being sold in a
'Trappist Monk' produce shop? How did they develop this product?
Getting to the Valle Verde involved a bumpy
descent down a dirt track from the main paved road. It is a remote place, but
beautifully located and run by a couple of really friendly sisters. We had
booked ahead for a tree-house for 500 pesos a night...including use of a
swimming pool. The location is excellent, the service super and we had it all
to ourselves. The tree-house was simple and pretty and it was lovely to see
Shiera's excited face when we got to it....magic!
A nice dip in the warm pool and they delivered
our lunch to us in a small poolside Nipa hut. After all this stress (joke), it
was time for some relaxation to take in recent events...laze back in the
hammock in the dappled shade and let the world float by....well, it is a long
way from here....so no traffic noises, only the sound of the breeze rustling
the leaves on the trees (Mangoes, Palms, Chico etc).
After time disappeared for a while we had a
nice chat with one of the co-owners of the resort Christie, who runs it with
her sister Loisa. Really pleasant ladies and knowledgeable about everything on
the island. I was interested in how the Trappist monks had come here. They have
to be self sufficient rather than relying on donations, and so their
manufacturing business started to gain income. The monk we saw in the shop was
an actual monk and not just a shop assistant, which i wasn't sure about.
A lovely curried vegetables and fried Bangus
(fish) meal in the evening, accompanied by local mangoes for desert. The sunset
before dinner was a beauty, with a clear view from the terrace of the resort.
After a lovely chat with Christie about land prices in the area and tourism and
its effects on Guimaras, we lay by the pool and stargazed for a while. Geckos
and frogs were plenty, and so the atmosphere was lovely. Just me, my baby, the
stars and some creature music.
The tree house was a wonderful place to sleep.
It swayed a little in the breeze, but it was open-air and natural. Insects
chirruping to send us to sleep.
Thu 18th Feb - After an excellent night's sleep and a gentle
awakening by the roosters, we had a lovely breakfast. The main feature was an
'orgasm in a glass'. That is the only way i can describe the Mango shake we
had. So sweet and tasty....the best!
On with the day....it is low water at the
moment, but there were supposed to be some Springs about 500m from the resort
down a winding path that seemed worth a visit. In reality it was a slimy green
pool fed from mountain water and in poor condition. Carried on down through a
ravine towards the village of Lawi. A pretty and laid back place with its own
school and health centre. At one of the
shelters were we stopped for a break, there was a young girl about 10yrs old.
She was unfortunate to have the most disfigured mouth i have seen in a child.
We felt sorry for how her life must be affected by it, and she was obviously
self conscious about it.
The mode of transport here is motorbike taxis,
with small concrete sheds for waiting. After a while of walking we thought we
had seen enough and picked up a motorcycle to what is the main beach attraction
on the island at Alubihod. Cost 150 pesos and came with two numb bums at the
end of it.
There is some irony attached to Alubihod.
Firstly, it is a small stretch of messy white beach thrashed by strong waves
and not the serene place you think it will be. Secondly, the promotional photo
you see is in fact a fake! It was composed digitally by an American property
owner, and it resembles nothing here at all. I guess that this place comes
alive at weekends when locals come down to the beach with their picnics to
party in one of the many kubos that fill the front. Island hopping boats can do
a loop of the island or a local snorkeling trip for upwards of 400 pesos.
The rest of the day took off in a different
direction than we had imagined. We had spotted a sign on the way to Alubihod
for a plot of land for sale, so got the motorcycle driver to stop so we could
take a look. The owner lived in Iloilo and had a caretaker and his family
living on the land who showed us around. Really nice location so we weft our
details for him to pass on to the owner. We had only been back at the Valle
Verde less than half an hour when we were called that the land agent had
arrived to talk to us. Surprised of the speed of response we had a chat to her
about what we thought. She suggested that there was other land she had to show
us if we were interested, so we took her offer and spent the rest of the
afternoon until sunset being chauffeured around some plots of land. There is so
much of Guimaras for sale that you could have as much as you want here. Many
hectares from 100 pesos to 600 pesos per square meter available. One plot had 5
hectares of mixed land covering mangoes, cashews, rice, bananas, coconut and
other smaller crows for 130 p/sq.m. instant ranch owner if you wanted to be. To
be honest, it is out of my price range to buy such large plots of land now. We
would be more interested in something smaller.
Back at the resort and time for dinner and
discuss what we thought of our foray into land buying. Dinner was a meal Shiera requested yesterday.
A local specialty of Iloilo and its surrounding area. Called KBL for short
(Kadyos Baboy Langka). Washed down with fresh mango shake again....delicious!
The consensus of opinion about Guimaras is
that the locals believe it will take off in development in about 5 years time.
Personally, i don't think it has much to offer other than for local tourists,
as there is much to offer in other areas. The eastern side of the island is
nice and rugged, but too isolated for most to bother going. Alubihod is small
and messy and only attractive to partying groups at the weekend. At other times
it is dead and has little to offer. So it is a one off visit, but not worth a
long term investment we think.
Fri 19th Feb - Time to move on to Negros and the city of
Bacolod. Tricycle back to Hoskyn port in Jordan (180 pesos) then the Bangka
back to Iloilo city, where we got another tricycle to the main ferry port about
1km away for 20 pesos. There are at least three operators offering services to
Bacolod (Oceanjet, Weesam, Supercat) plus other slower RORO services from
Montenegro shipping lines.
We were rushed through ticketing as the boat
was waiting to leave. Left at 11:25 and arrived 12:50 for 550 pesos total for 2
of us including the 20 pesos terminal fee.
There are Jeepneys outside the ferry terminal
as well as tricycles and pedicabs, but it was better to take a metered taxi as
it only cost 60 pesos to get to the 'Pension Bacolod' on 11th street (off
Lacson street). Basic cold water rooms but pleasant enough set around a nice
garden.
Straight to explore the area on foot. A few
minutes walk to the main road and there are a few nice restaurants, one of
which, the 'Sweet Greens' seemed to be a nice option for later if we made it
back. It also had some nice healthy Mulberry drinks. What i really wanted to
see was the Negros Forest & Ecological foundation zoo as it was due to
close at 4:30pm. On the way there, the ANP Showroom on Lacson street has a
really nice display of Negros furniture and cultural artifacts. Onwards to the
lake anjd outside of the zoo entrance there had been a cultural parade earlier
in the day which we had missed. They had left their masks behind on the
pavement so we tried some on for a few fun photos.
the zoo (20 pesos entrance) is run by
volunteers and is a rescue centre for some rare Negros species, some of which
are on the brink of extinction...the bleeding heart dove, the spotted deer, the
warty pig, a couple of species of hornbill, few cat species too. A school group
descended on the zoo, so we escaped in time before they ran riot. Around the
corner is the Negros Museum which we should have visited but decided to pass
on. Instead we walked to the city Plaza where there is a nice Spanish era
cathedral.
The newest addition to Bacolod is the SM Mall.
Offering the usual collection of department store, eateries and clothing shops
plus a cinema. We later went to see the 'Valentine's day' movie. Tonight was
marked by a fantastic sunset. A wonderful herringbone quilted sky. Opposite the
mall is a church tower that we spotted too late. Crowds climb to the top to get
a great vantage point for the sunset. If we stopped another night we would
definitely climb it.
one thing Bacolod is famous for is the
birthplace is the restaurant chain 'Inasal', famed for its chicken dinners. we
didn't eat there, but at the more native feeling Joe's restaurant.
A pleasant walk back past the illuminated
Cathedral. Bacolod is known as the 'City of Smiles', and it is true. The people
are so nice and smile a lot. I had a great feeling about this city and enjoyed
being here. I don't think it will be the last time i come here.
Sat 20th Feb - We were to move on today but wanted to see a
little more of Bacolod before going. First stop was the Municipal building with
its pillared entrance....unfortunately closed being Saturday. Another walk
around the central lake before jumping on a Jeepney to 21st Street. A starting
point for an area that comes alive in the evening with live music in some of
the bars. It is close to the University area so we went to the La Salle
University complex as Shiera had been to La Salle in Manila. They were happy to
let us in to walk around for a while. Back to the Pensionne to collect our
baggage and then took a taxi to the Ceres Liner bus terminal to catch a bus to
the southern city of Dumaguete (255 pesos air-con). I had been to Dumaguete
before.
After a nice Thai curry at the Swiss run 'Why Not'
restaurant we wandered back to the town plaza where there was going to be
dancing until near midnight. I had been here last year and knew about it. 150
pesos for a table and contribution to the hire of the sound system and DJ.
Latin ballroom music and some pop music. It was a nice time in the open before
we returned to the Rizal boulevard waterfront. A bikers convention was in town.
They had commandeered a restaurant and had a live group playing plus fireworks
later. Some customized machines for everyone to drool over and plenty of
revving engines for the riders to boast their machine's power.
Shiera wasn't impressed by Dumaguete due to the prostitution
that inevitably exists here, being an expat hangout. It isn't that bothersome
really, and can be ignored, but it is there. Lots of pretty girls with cell phones
strapped to their ears chatting to their many customers.
Sun 21st
Feb - After
breakfast we headed to the port to check on options. After considering Siqijor
and deciding not to go, it was going to be a 4 hour wait for the sailing direct
to Tagbilaran in Bohol, which was going to be boring. I decided on an
alternative route via Cebu, which meant catching a tricycle to Sibulan boat
terminal, north of Dumaguete. Two options of either a pump boat for 45pesos or
the Fastcraft for 62 pesos. Both leave regular, but the fast craft left half an
hour earlier so we took that at 11am. It is a short crossing of only 20 minutes
to Lilo-An on Cebu Island. Waiting at the pier was the Ceres Bus Line aircon
bus to Cebu city (5 hours total). We wanted to go Bohol today and would have
gone all the way to Cebu to catch a ferry across, but chances were that we
would have arrived late in Bohol and then had some difficulties in getting
accommodation, plus having to get to the port from the bus terminal. The cost
all adds up. it only cost 88 Pesos to Argao and left Lilo-An at 11:25am. The
ferry from there goes to Loon in Bohol.
The journey up the eastern coast of Cebu is pretty. Native
nipa huts line the road along with pretty flowers surrounding them. The clear
turquoise waters of the sea for the whole route, and a nice view of Similon
Island only a short way away, with its white sand beaches, home to a marine
reserve and some good diving apparently.
Arrived at the clean and pretty Taloot ferry terminal in
Argao at about 1pm to find that there are only 2 boats a day and the last left
at noon. Disappointed that we couldn't get to Bohol from here, we had no choice
but to walk back to the highway and await the next bus. Wasn't long when the
Sunrays bus arrived. 57 pesos to get to Cebu at breakneck speed. The next few
hours were a bit hectic. Once the bus arrived at the southern bus terminal with
its sea of brightly coloured Jeepneys, we had to get a taxi to pier 3 for the
crossing to Bohol. getting from the door to the taxi is a scam as guys want 5
pesos to open the door of the taxi for you. We got in one...he agreed to use
the meter, then asked for 5 pesos to pay this guy who had only opened the door
for us. Told his to take a run and we got out and jumped in the next waiting
taxi, which happened to be cleaner. Got to the port (50 pesos taxi), and
another guy showed us the Starcraft office across the road, and then wanted
something from us for that little service. Didn't give him anything....scams
everywhere. the boat to Tubigon cost 200 pesos for the 45 min trip. A shuttle
arrived to take us to the boat. 10 pesos terminal fee and the boat set off at
3:30 as expected. The last boat of the day.
45 minutes later and we were in Tubigon. From a distance,
not a bad looking place and only a short walk to the centre from the port. Many
tricycle waiting and we thought of taking a look at the one and only place in
the guidebook. It looked disgusting, so we changed plans and decided not to
overnight in Tubigon after all. The last bus of the day to Carmen had left, but
a van was waiting so we took that for 70 pesos. About 30 minutes to gather some
food for the journey....a whole chicken, some rice wrapped in banana leaves,
some banana cake and some drinks. The trip to Carmen is a pretty one. Bohol in
general is a pretty island, and worthy of consideration as a place to live. 45
minutes later and we were in Carmen....not too great a place when you first
arrive. No accommodation listed in the guidebook, so we were hoping there would
be something. Of course, there were loads of waiting motorcycles to take us to
a place. We had to get two moto-taxis (habal-habal) to take us somewhere due to
us having backpacks. The Banlasan lodge (0908 9017218) is about 1.8km from
town. Fairly basic room (300 pesos for standard - no shower, Deluxe room by the
pool but still no shower for 500 or VIP with a shower and TV for 600). Main
feature was having two swimming pools, but only basic Filipino food on offer.
To be honest, the whole place seemed to be run by one girl...receptionist, cook
etc...so she had enough to be doing.
Mon 22nd
Feb - Rather
than take our luggage to Chocolate hills, we left it at the Banlasan Lodge and
got a Habal-Habal for 50 pesos. Entrance to the 'Choco Complex' at La Paz is 50
pesos each (free for locals). There is a hotel at the complex with swimming
pool (contact 038 416 0199) but thought that the budget room were dire for 400
pesos.
I had been last year and the Chocolate hills were green then
too. Probably another couple of months before they turn brown with lack of
water. The Chocolate Hills are a quirk of geology and unique to Bohol. 1286 of
them spread across a relatively small part of the island that used to be under
water a very long time ago. There are many stories in the news at the moment
about drought. About 3 months since the last rains. However, the hills are
still green apart from a couple which look to have been burnt. It does make for
some unusual photos with people pointing, jumping and doing all sorts of things
to frame them in a fun way. Since my last visit they have fenced off the lower
observation area, so you cannot do photos from there. Instead, photography
companies have set up fake screens that they pose you against. A bit of a rip
off and they are crawling all over the place selling their business. I think it
is another tourism scam to make money as they seem to monopolize the only
location you can actually take good photos from.
Back to the Banlasan lodge to collect our luggage and then
hopped on a passing bus to Tagbilaran. We were aiming for 'Nuts Huts', a Nipa
hut resort close to Loboc. Rang ahead to book a room, 450 pesos for double
dormitory.
The bus forgot to tell us when we had got there, so we got
dropped off in Loboc instead, and had to thumb a lift from a passing private
van to get back. About 750 metres from the drop-off place down a dirt track to
the Nuts Huts resort (0920 846 1559). Set on a steep slope down to the Loboc
river, it is a pretty place and run by lovely hosts Chris and Rita. It is
primarily a backpacker place looking at the clientele it attracts, and has a
great vibe and superb food and healthy drinks. Sauna and massage also available
as well as tours.
One of the main attractions in this area, apart from the
lush jungle walks, is the endangered 'Philippine Tarsier' (Tarsius Syrichta),
which is endemic to the Bohol forests and is very territorial. It has been
around for 45 million years, but is threatened by tourism. Department of
Environment and Natural Resources (DENR) has set up a conservation reserve at
Corella, which we will visit in a day or so.
In the evening it was heaving. They have a really popular
business here as it is 'captive'...nowhere else to go for a long way. So you
have to eat and drink here. Fortunately, it is very good.
Tue 23rd
Feb - Moving
from a dorm room to a private hut today, but that would happen whilst we were
out. By the way, the huts here are named after movies and we were moving from
'Finding Nemo' to 'Clockwork Orange'. Across the lovely blue/green Loboc river
is a path which has been illuminated for its whole length by a tourism project.
It is also walkable to Loboc town, so we decided to give it a go. A boatman
makes the crossing for 10 pesos each. The Loboc river is beautiful. Winding its
way through lush forest, flanked by traditional Nipa huts and rice fields. A
rather unique sight is about 10 hectares of rice fields strewn with
multi-coloured scarecrow (Papoy) wafting in the breeze and some colourful
bunting. Set against the verdant green and gold of the maturing rice.
we enquired along the way about land for sale, and there was
plenty. No small lots, just hectares at a time. For under 5000 pounds we could
buy a couple of hectares of rice land including a stretch along the riverbank
including palms trees, bananas, star-apple and some other nice trees.
At one point there was a platform on the opposite bank with
a choir of ladies singing for their passing audience. From about 11am there is
a constant convoy of floating restaurant boats, each complete with a performing
band. These range from acoustic guitar to electro-pop. We later found out that
they are fixed at 350 pesos per head for the dinner cruise to the waterfalls
and back. We sat for a while and waved to passing boats, which all seemed to be
having a nice time.
Once we reached town we checked out the 'Tourism Complex'
where the boats depart from. A range of meals available and may consider it
before we leave here. Also a few touristy shops selling local handicrafts.
A brief tour of the town...the 2nd oldest church in the
Philippines, the Loboc museum, school and the nice plaza, and that's about it.
It was lunchtime at the school and it was interesting to see the boys walking
out of school carrying mock wooden rifles. Apparently it is normal practice
across the Philippines in their 4th year high school. It is called CAT, which i
could only guess what it stands for...maybe Cadet Army Training. An hour on the
internet for 8 pesos per hour...the cheapest ever!
Not much else happening here in Loboc, so we decided to make
a visit somewhere out of town. Negotiated with a habal-habal rider to take us
to the Tarsier Research centre in Corella and back (about 18km each way) for
200 pesos. There is a 20 pesos entry fee plus any other donation you wish to
make. A guide took us into the fenced protected area and showed us a few of the
gorgeous little creatures hiding in the trees and under bushes. In the wild
they can survive for many years, rather than less than 12 months in some cases
when kept in captivity. Stress is their biggest killer!
Back in Loboc we visited the nice tourism centre where they
provide free internet and also let me print out a document for free. Really
nice and friendly people. Well done Loboc!
Walked back along the river to Nuts Huts and had to find a
local to ferry us across the river in a small Bangka as the normal service
finished at 4:30pm.
we had skipped lunch today and apart from some drinks had
not eaten since breakfast. The speedy service in the resto sorted us out with a
great meal to rejuvenate us. It was dark now and the lighting along the
riverbank was on. The lights change colour randomly and give a nice feel to the
scene. The tranquil setting, the luscious vegetation...and then an illuminated
party boat appears with some Spanish sounding vocals playing. Interesting
combination considering its jungle location!
Our new hut was much better than last night and had private
shower and toilet....freezing water..but welcome nonetheless.
Wed 24th
Feb - The
walk out of Nuts Huts is a strenuous start to the day. Climbing the steps
followed by a 750m walk, part up-hill, in the heat gets your heart pumping and
the sweat flowing. Only had to wait at the road for a short while for a bus to
arrive to take us to Loboc town.
The plan was to take one of the infamous lunch cruises from
the tourist complex. A number of operators all huddled together and all the
same price at 350 pesos a head. On our boat a guitarist boarded, to entertain
for most of the one hour trip. Along the way a stop at an entertainment
platform, where a group of guitar playing girls sang and danced a tourist song.
Very pretty and complemented the beautiful surroundings of the Loboc river. The
meal was mainly Filipino and ok for the price. The total journey lasts about an
hour and they will repeat it about four times each day, including a night trip
at 6:30pm.
Didn't want to hang around much more and caught a bus to Tagbilaran
from the main road through town for 25 pesos. The buses all go to the Dao
terminal at the Island City Mall, the largest of the city's two malls. From
there, another bus to Alona beach on Panglao Island for 25 pesos. A taxi is an
option, but that costs upto 300 pesos, but is faster and direct. Our bus, which
was falling apart, stopped within 5 minutes of leaving Dao, and sat there for
to wait for more passengers. once it got going it wasn’t too bad a run to Alona
beach on Panglao via Dauis village. Panglao isn't a peaceful island anymore.
The roads seem too busy with a steady stream heading towards the beach area.
Once we got to Alona drop-off point, it is obvious you have
arrived in a touristy place, as the crowd descends to sell tours,
accommodation, bikes etc. Obviously, the touts are trying to drag you off to a
place that is rubbish or the opposite direction to the beach in a dead
location, and one where they get commission. There is much here to choose from,
so it doesn't take long to find something. The area to the left when reaching
the beach is the more expensive end. A few budget options to the right side.
We ended up at a budget Nipa hut in Alona Grove for 650
pesos. Basic but ok.
The tide was high now, and part of the beachfront was now
under water, but exploring the waterfront is an excuse to wade in the water and
settle into the pace of the beach again.
Some people don't like Alona beach and think it is too
overrun. True it is full of dive resorts and restaurants that are in the same
price range as Boracay. But it is a more quiet place and laid back. Full of
touts trying to sell island tours to Balicasag or Pamilacan islands. At times
it gets annoying there are so many stoppages along with those selling
sunglasses and massage. I start to ignore them very rapidly, and at times it
feels like it creates a bad impression. But after saying 'no thank you' 50
times, you get a little tired.
Had a nice massage on the beach. 500 pesos for two and mine
was really good. They are governed by an association which sets their price, and
so they are all the same. They also dress in a standard uniform to show they
are from the association.
Ended up eating at the economic 'Powder Kegg' restaurant on
the road out of the beach area. Good food and cheaper compared to the beach
prices.
Picked up some stuff for breakfast from a store and then off
to count some zzzz....
Thu 25th
Feb - After a
good night's sleep we headed out to explore the western side of the Alona
peninsula by foot. It is a bit craggy in parts, and the beach soon disappears. It
took a while to get to another nice area, but Danao beach is pleasant enough on
the west. Quiet after the busy Alona and devoid of touts selling....not one!
Some expats have built their retirement homes on this side, and we happened on
a lovely place that was being cleaned up, so stopped to chat to the owner.
Spent a while chatting to him and his wife, who were selling up to move back to
Australia soon and were keen to show us around. Shiera and i were certainly
interested, as it was a beautiful home with a great location. Food for thought!
Checked out some other land options along this area and then
made our way back to Alona for a swim and cool down after we had eaten lunch at
the remote 'Calypso resort'.
Fri 26th
Feb - A
'Chillaxing'....chillin and relaxin... day today. A bit of swimming in the sea,
a bit of sunbathing, a bit of this, a bit of that. The evening was nice too.
Ate at the Thai restaurant on the beachfront and then whiled away the evening
listening to a nice band outside of the Bohol Divers resort.
Sat 27th
Feb - Going
to Cebu today to overnight before flying back to Manila tomorrow. A couple of
minutes walk from the Alona Grove and the bus arrived as soon as we hit the
main road. For 25 pesos we got a tour of the island almost as it worked its way
to the Dao terminal back in Tagbilaran. Very pretty and un-touristic in most
parts outside of the Alona area.
As has been our luck with transport, as soon as we arrived
at Dao, we got off one bus and straight on to the bus for Tubigon. 25 pesos and
90 minutes journey time. The route is nice but nothing special. No beaches,
just mangrove and rice fields.
The bus stops in the town centre and only a few minutes’
walk along the pier to the terminal. The MV Lite Shipping was leaving at noon
for 150 pesos standard class. 10 minutes later and we had cast off. There was a
tourist class sleeper room on this boat with aircon. Why bother as the standard
is naturally air-conditioned? The cleanest and smell free toilets I have
experienced on a Filipino boat for a long time as it looked to have been
refurbished recently. Clean paintwork too and new mattresses on the beds.
Booked ahead our accommodation at the Jasmine Pensionne House in Cebu city to
make it easier for our arrival.
got into Cebu and took a metered taxi to the Jasmine
Pension. The driver had a near miss when a passing wagon hit him and damaged
his door mirror. Could have been worse.
The Jasmine is clean and tidy and convenient for the
delights of the Osmena circle and surrounds. There was one sight i wanted to
see which we didn't manage the last time we were here, and that was the Taoist
temple. The only sensible way to get there was another taxi. A really pretty
place with a great outlook over Cebu. Free to get in and some good photo
opportunities. They have a strict rule about photography here. Absolutely no
photos of the inside of the buildings and altars. Security guards are quick to
stop anyone that tries.
If you don't take the option to have the taxi wait for you,
which we didn't, then getting out is a little tricky. There was a tourist bus
at 5pm but we missed it and the remaining taxis were waiting for their
customers. Luckily we didn't have to walk far before we one passed.
Went to a comedy club in the evening, which turned out to be
totally gay! The performers were great singers and entertainers, but were all
gay.....what is going on in this world? The rest of the area seemed to be KTV
and girlie bars, with plenty of guys on the streets selling Cialis and Viagra!
One factor which we experiences last time was the amount of
beggars on the streets. A very in-your-face issue here. They come up and grab
you and are so filthy, it was unpleasant. I am usually tolerant of this sort of
thing, but here it is a little out of hand in the Osmena circle area.
Sun 28th
Feb - Up early
as we Fly to Manila today, departing at 9:45am. Domestic at Cebu is fairly easy
and we didn't have much waiting around. The flight is only a short one and
arrived in Manila 20 minutes ahead of schedule.
The main reason for coming back today was the Philippines
1st International Pyro-music competition. Each Sunday, two competing countries
show off their best firework displays. Tonight was France and Japan, but that
wasn't to start until around 7pm at the Mall of Asia waterfront.
Losing some time in a mall this size isn't difficult. We
went to see the movie 'Wolfman'....another one of those werewolf movies, but
even more realistic than its predecessors. An even more scary event was going
into a wedding shop for Shiera to look for ideas, and a book store to buy a
book on weddings....really scary stuff!
Like other events we have seen at the Mall of Asia, it was a
major event sponsored and controlled to extract every last peso from the
public. Restaurants take every advantage to offer special meals with a view of
the fireworks for 1,500 per head. VIP seats overlooking the bay for 1,500 too.
Given that it doesn't really matter where you are as they were launched from a
floating platform out in the bay, we opted for the 'Silver' tickets for 150
pesos and sat on the wall looking straight at the show. Bargain really. The
French display was superb, but the Japanese was just awesome. They even made
smiley faces and hearts in the sky. It was so clever and imaginative to be
jaw-dropping. They only have around 20 minutes each for their display, but the
volume of fireworks that got launched was incredible.
Getting out of the mall was fun. Taxi drivers weren't
interested in anything but long distance fares, so we had to get a Jeepney and
then a bus. The timing was perfect as is usual for us, and we saved a load of
money in the process too. By 10pm or so we were on our way back to Silang after
being away since 8th February. A long trip with much excitement and life
changing events !
More in the next posting folks…..
