Our world Travel

India back to Philippines

jeffbrad — Sun, 5 Dec 2010 20:00:00 GMT

Thursday 2nd December - Today is the end of our journey through India and the premature return to the Philippines. We arrived on 2nd August from Malaysia, so have spent only 4 months out of our possible 5 1/2 months allowed on the visa. To be honest, it is a shame it is ending as there was much more to see and we had originally planned to spend Christmas in Sikkim in the snow and then head south to the Maldives before heading back to Malaysia after some time in Sri Lanka. Plans have been scrapped due to family problems back east. Not sure what will be happening after we return. There is much research to do over in Malaysia in regard to the possibility of living there, and so the visit to the Philippines will be brief for me, maybe until early February, and Shiera will possibly stay in the Philippines for the time I am away. There will be an immediate requirement to find somewhere partly furnished to rent for a short while so that life can function. Shiera also has to get her passport updated to her married name through the NSO (National Statistics Office), and also possibly return to her birth Christian name too. She was born as Shiera Baltazar, but her parents later changed her name to Joyce. We are trying to ascertain how easy it will be to change from Joyce Ann Baltazar to Shiera Bradshaw in one step and save later hassles with her passport. All a bit messy and maybe taking a while to resolve, which necessitates being in the Philippines to sort it out.

First stage in the return is to fly to Bangkok aboard Air Asia flight FD/AK3783 departing at 12:20. A time zone change from India's GMT+4.5 to Thailand's GMT+6. We now have a Sitar to carry plus extra baggage. A taxi from the hotel to the airport cost Rs250 and it is a long way, taking about 50minutes to get there.

After arriving at the airport we had a short wait before check-in opened, and then the hassle started. Despite having pre-paid and extra 10kg extra baggage on-line, the Sitar was not allowed as carry-on but my guitar was ok. They charged me an extra 2,400 rupees excess baggage for it....excuse my language...the swines! No ATM at the airport and I didn't have enough cash in rupees, and only $20USD in extra currency on me, so changed it and managed to just cover the baggage charge....the Stress!!! It all adds to the cost of flying and carrying any goods of course. And the so called budget operators get you every time.

I always think that Air Asia's red livery is very smart. The A320 airbus was nice and clean and the service good. I had pre-booked a meal which was small but tasty. I always wonder about in-flight meals why they are designed to barely keep you alive, and just about big enough for a 3 year old child?

Time forward 90minutes and arrived at Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi airport at 4:50pm.

Next and most fraught with problems is the CebuPacific flight 5J932 to Manila. Why problems? I will attempt to get a 'Balikbayan' visa on arrival at immigration at Manila airport, which allows for a 365 day visa as a husband of a Filipino national. Without that, I will only be given a standard 21day tourist visa. Without such a visa I would be forced to buy an outgoing flight from the Philippines to even be allowed to board the flight. I have not done that, and will have to resolve it at the airport.

As it turned out, we were getting a little stressed at the possibilities of it all going wrong, and it turned out fairly well. There was a lovely girl on check-in and her supervisor who let the Sitar on for free, and accepted a little over weight without any charge. So, we had bought 40kg allowance on Air Asia and still had to pay another 2,400 rupees, but had only 30kg allowance on Cebupacific and paid nothing extra...now work the logic of that one out! And air Asia was a larger A320 airbus whereas CP was a smaller 737. No excuses other than being a rip-off!

Flight 5J932 Departing 00:35 on 3rd December and arriving in Manila at 04:15 with another timezone shift to GMT+7. Smooth enough with plenty of time for another meal at the airport before boarding.

The flight was pleasant enough and we arrived at Manila at 5:15am in the dark. By the time we got through baggage reclaim and passport control it was daylight. The visa was easy enough. They have a 'Special Assistance' booth, where they gave me a 1 year visa without question once they saw the marriage certificate.

Our final destination was to be Tagaytay to find a hotel. Buses would have been an option to get there. But with the long journey and feeling a bit weary, we decided to go for a taxi all the way, costing 1500 pesos from the pre-paid booth outside. The taxi booth inside the terminal wanted 2030.

So it's back to Tagalog, the Peso currency, the English accent with an American twist...and Christmas. Yep, the first sight of Christmas trees and Paroles (the star ornament), and Christmas tunes...at the beginning of December... You can tell we're back in the Philippines!

Slept for a while and missed breakfast, so ended up with a late lunch before cracking on with the main duties of the day, mainly finding some better accommodation. We hired a tricycle driver for a couple of hours but didn't find anything suitable around the Tagaytay area, so will have to look elsewhere tomorrow. Somewhere less touristy where the prices should be more reasonable.

We managed to find a reasonable option at the Robertson’s Inn in Kaybagal area of Tagayatay city for a couple of weeks. Good location and plenty nearby to keep us amused.

On with getting stuff sorted out…..

Kolkata (Calcutta)

jeffbrad — Sun, 5 Dec 2010 19:55:00 GMT

Thursday 25th Nov - We secured a room at the Galaxy hotel and then had breakfast at the Blue Sky café on Sudder street then went back and moved in. The immediate area is really nice and it will be a pleasure to spend a while here.

One of the great historical features of this area and only found in Kolkata are the 'Tana' Rickshaws. Pulled by guys on foot, some barefooted, they are a wonderful remnant of a bygone era. We caught one to near main park. They are restricted to certain places so are more of a novelty that a practical go-everywhere mode of transport. The more liberal way of getting around are the yellow taxis, which are everywhere.

We walked through the Maidan and park area where horses and goats are in abundance, on our way to the Victoria Memorial. Plying the roads around the park are some really pretty horse drawn carriages, similar to those in Mumbai. Ornate engraved metalware and fancy paintwork make each unique. Not sure of the costs of a ride?

The Victoria Memorial is surrounded by a park which can be accessed for a few rupees. The main building, however, costs Rs150 as it houses a museum. No photography allowed inside. It details the history in photographs, paintings and sculptures

It was built in 1901 to commemorate Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee, but took nearly 20years after her death to complete.

After the VM we made a circuit around some other famous landmarks: St Pauls cathedral which glistens ure white in the sunshine and had amasisve vaulted roof and stained glass windows. The Birla Planetarium next door, one of the world's largest. Throughout the day they do sessions in Hindi, Bengali and English. We would have had to wait 2 hours for the next English session, so may go back another day.

Northwards past the Indira Ghandi statue leads to the upmarket Park road. Some swanky restaurants and nice shops which we will return to another day. The poshest MacDonalds I think we have ever eaten in, and plenty of nice bookshops which we spent a couple of hours in. The largest being the Oxford bookshop, but I think that some of the smaller ones offer better prices. Back along Chowringhee road, which is filled with Hawker's Market stalls selling almost everything.

I had wondered about the change in name of this city....Kolkata was formerly known as Calcutta until 2001 when it adopted a more phonetic spelling.

Walking the streets is more enjoyable than any other of India's major cities. Something for everyone in its shops, and the nice Hogg market. Some prices seemed a little higher than elsewhere, but need to shop around a little more.

Another Bollywood movie at the ParadiseRoxy Cinema, to see Break ke baad (Rs100). All in Hindi as usual and this one was unusual as there was no dancing or singing at all. The same faces as in some other popular movies i've recently seen.

Saturday 27th November - After breakfast at the Fresh & Juicy café, we caught a taxi to Dalhousie Square for Rs36. What I hadn't realised was that the whole are, especially the main buildings would be under army/police surveillance and photography was banned even from the outside. One of the places I wanted to see was the 'Writer's Building', a government publications department. The typical red and cream colonial style building. Dalhousie square itslef is cordoned off with fencing and overgrown. Why it has got to such a dilapidated state I do not know. Flanking one side of it is the stately GPO (General Post Office) building with its white domed roof. We took the road down the side of the GPO to the strand road which follows the Hooghly river. Separated from it by the railway track and Millenium park gardens (Rs5 entry). At a few intersections it is possible to get down to the ferry terminals, which we will do another day. Glancing northwest fro the Fairly ghat ferry terminal, the Howrah train station building dominated the western bank with its colonial red and cream styling.

Further south and turning into KS Roy street was supposed to lead to the 'Black hole of Calcutta memorial' statue, but as it seems with so many monuments here, you cannot get in to see it. The Archaeological Survey of India seems to have surveyed them then locked them away from publi access. I had read about the rugular frequency of strikes in Kolkata, and today was no exception as we passed a large protest. Couldn't tell much about it other than it might have been something to do with BSNL?

To complete the circuit and head back north we got one of the most wonderful pieces of history in this city, the tram. Tram 22 dropped us back at the Esplanade junction and the conductor didn't charge us anything. Nice guy!

I had read that to visit the Marble Palace required a free permit obtained from the Tourism office on Shakespeare Sarani, so we trudged all the way there...to find it closed until Monday. We had missed it by 1hour. Oh well...had a nice walk through the lovely streets on our way to Park Street and a McDonalds before catching a Tana rickshaw...now nicknamed by us as the 'Slave Rickshaw', back to the Galaxy hotel. There is no other city in India where you can get so many unique forms of transport..yellow taxi, tana rickshaw, tram, ferry, as well as some interesting buses....just wonderful...thanks to the British colonial era in the main I think. It isn't jus beause I am British, but It is a shame that so any great things were developed, and beautiful buildings too, to be left to almost go to ruin when India took back control after Independence. There is one major criticism I have about India, and that is that it seems to lack the ability to maintain anything in a clean and presentable form. Cash has much to do with it, but to see hundreds of soldiers and police sitting idly all day around a building with nothing to do costs a lot of money, and yet they don't spend anything on maintenance. Different budget! All in all though, I think that Calcutta is a great city.

I had one of those moments later in the day when I realised that a problem I have could be solved another way, which may potentially make things easier in the future.

Sunday 28th Nov - Taxi to Alipore Zoo (Rs30 entry). A reasonable collection of animals including Giraffe, Zebra, Lion, Deer. Had hoped to see a Bengal tiger, but all we got to see was its tail inside its room. Rihinoceros and Hippo are also there and plenty of interesting birds.

A brief walk around the compound of the Ntional Library almost oposite the entrance before taking a taxi to Khalighat temple. One of those places were tourists seem to be sucked into a process by a guide that latches onto you as soon as you walk in. Shoes need to be left by the entrance. I was handed a big bunch of red Hybiscus, a red amulet ring and some incense sticks. First into the temple to offer some flowers and have the usual red tikka annointment. Next the tree where stones are hung as part of the wishes and the somewhat involved ceremony of throwing hybiscus into the tree whilst making wishes for everyone from your mother to your transport. And then the usual event happens...the donation book appeared. The last entry as expected was a foreigner, who had amazingly donated 2000 rupees! The fact the the last two zeroes had been added in different handwriting obviously had escaped them. They must think we are all stupid. He even insisted that they take dollars or any currency and that $20 would be ok. I gave him 20 rupees as had other people and walked out. Shiera attacked the guide as usual. Seems that this is a common event nowadays. She normally finds someone to attack, no matter how many years they have been doing it. It is a stand of principles of course, but, sorry to say, many Indians don't have any principles, only a need to deceive for money. On the way out in the taxi we passed many effigy makers, who make them for the many ceremonys that take place here. Most weren't complete as I guess the finishing touches depend on who buys them. Back to Sudder street and a nice thai meal at the Blue Sky café. Seems almost pointless trying other places as two places here do everything you could want at reasonable prices.

So how many times do you get approached by touts when you become sarastic or rude to them...

'I have a shop'...good for you, now bugger off and find someone else who wants to go in it!

'My shop is this way'...good for you...now why do you think I am walking in the road? To avoid annoying people like you. Now you go that way to your shop, and i'll go the other direction.

'I have a taxi'...i'm so pleased for you....go shout it to the world so they can all be happy for you.

'Would you like to buy a shirt from my shop'... Do I look like the sort of person who buys the grottiest tat that it's possible to buy in the whole of India!

The Tana (slave-pulled) richshaw pullers can be annoying. They carry a bell which they sometimes shake in your face as if ignoring them isn't enough to tell them you don't want a ride. To me this is like a red rag to a bull...nothing is more demeaning than some idiot shaking a bell in your face like you are a dog. It makes me want to stick that bell right up his ass and make him ring forever!

Taxi drivers are possibly the worse....now, tell me if I am wrong, but...if I a walking down a road past a line of taxis, and I am deliberately looking the other way...why would you ask me...'Sir, would you like a taxi?'. I guess that is why on another occasion when I actually did want a taxi and i asked to go to the Zoo...and show him on the nice colourful map the zoo, and the picture showing the animals....clear enough to most human being with a brain...the taxi driver continues along the journey to ask where you want to go and he is already driving that direction? Duhhh!!.. For some, if you only have one brain cell, then it's a clear decision in life to either drive a taxi or run a clothes stall. Sorry if it offends anyone, but you get my point.

Well I finally finished George Orwell's book 1984 and what a struggle that was too. It does get easier towards the end, and the meaning of being sent to 'Room 101' becomes clear. Having to face your worst nightmare. The thing you most fear and want to get rid of or away from. As for the book...well, not everyone's choice of book, but a classic and glad I chose it. And now for... The monk who sold his Ferrari, by Robin Sharma. My choice of books is getting weird I think! There is a nice opening phrase quoted from George Bernard Shaw...`Life is no brief candle for me. It is a sort of splendid torch which I have got hold of for the moment, and I want to make it burn as brightly as possible before handing it on to future generations`. Now isn't that I lovely maxim by which to govern your life.

Monday 29th November - only a few days left in India before we leave on Thursday. A few more sights to see over the next few days, and some things to buy, tasks to do.

First stop was the Nakhoda Mosque on Rabindra Sarani. We couldn't get in until 1pm and then we decided not to anyway, as the outside view was enough. The more pleasant experience though was wandering the streets around it. For men's Kurti, it is the best area I have seen. So much to choose from that I bought three Kurtis. The area is divided into zones. One for kurti, next for shoes. Another for electrical goods, another for musical instruments, and a quaint area for salvage goods. With the old tram running through the streets and the tana rickshaws too, it is like another world. I have been considering buying a sitar for a while, and here there are some great shops with quality instruments. Cash only, so might return another day.

We had intended to find China town and Elephant gate, but had run out of energy by that stage. Also, we had bought Shiera another couple of Punjabi suits that needed to be tailored and haven't got much time, so took a taxi back to Sudder street and visited a tailor to have them made up before we leave. Rs225 per suit. It is better to buy the material and make it up rather than relying on of-the-peg fitting. Never ending shopping...so much good value stuff around, that it is hard to stop.

Tuesday 30th November - Today's mission was to visit the Marble Palace in the north of Calcutta. Sounded easy enough. After stopping 13 taxi drivers with not one of them knowing where it was, we were getting a bit frustrated. Showing them a map made no difference. One taxi sounded promising and so we got in. He then drove a short way and stopped to ask another Indian the directions. He seemed to know here it was and told him where to go. The driver then promptly started to drive in completely the wrong direction, heading south instead of north. Thinking he was going to turn at some point, we waited a little while. It became apparent he had no idea and we were going further away. We had to stop him and got out without paying. After further attempts we gave up and went to the Metro station instead and took a train to MG Road stop for Rs4 each. The Calcutta Metro is very easy, cheap and clean, being patrolled by ared police with large rifles. One thing that is very noticeable about Calcutta is the presence of the armed forces everywhere. Moreso than any other place we have been. It wasn't too far from the Metro to the road for the Marble temple. Luckily, as we entered the road there was a street parade taking place. Colourful floats and people. Dressed horses and singing and music. A wonderful vibrant atmosphere of happy people and great photo oportunities. Got in with one group and did some Bangra to the beat. They were even handing out food and drink along the way. Awesome experience.

We had overshot the Marble Palace as we followed the procession so had to double back. The guide book had stated that a permit was required to visit the palace, and that was available from the Tourism office the other end of the city almost. A local tour company told us that the permit was not required and to just go. Of course, we got there to find a sign on the gate saying a permit was required. The guard on the gate said he would let us in for a few rupees though. We refused to pay him anything and just went in. Another guy told us no photography was allowed, but it would be ok if I paid him something. A ceremony was taking place in a small temple area. Cannot go in and no photos...ok if you pay a few rupees. Seems that everyone is into the scam. The main palace is lovely, old and elegant. The guides on the entrance ask for a donation to go in. We argued that it was government property and 'Free' to go in so refused to pay them anything either. There was a compulsory guide who was really nice and informative so I gave him a tip after the tour. I hadn't realised that the palace was still partly occupied and some areas are not for public access. The inside of the palace is beautiful. Olde worlde charm with Italian marble flooring throughout. wonderful rare paintings by some famous artists. Elaborate carved mirrors and furniture. Plenty of furniture covered in drapes that may not have seen daylight for decades. Parts of the palace look like they have not been dusted in years and everything has that neglected old look as if nothing has been cared for. In a way it actually added to the antiquity, giving it a really aged and beautiful appearance. The garden is large and surprisingly has an exotic bird area with some nice specimens in rusty cages, plus some wild animals like spotted deer, Barking deer (Muntjak) and a lovely Rosy Pelican. The workers were asleep under trees and on tables, adding to the impression that this place is neglected by everyone who works in it.

Back on the street and a walk to the amazing fruit market. First the banana section, followed by Oranges, Apples, Melons, Pomegranate, plums and plenty of others. Fantastically colourful and sweetly scented. Overriding the normal smells that would abound on the streets. So many happy and smiling faces when they see a couple of foreigners appear, especially with a camera. Laughing and jeering and great fun.

Rabindra Sarani road was even more crazier than when we had visited yesterday. It is so historic and full of life that it is a must visit place in this city. We tried to get a Tana rickshaw out of the area to the Esplanade, but it proved impossible, so we had to walk all the way. Turned out to be so congested due to a political rally on behalf of leading political party. Noisy speakers blasting their speech over tannoys and masses of poeople squashed into a junction that would normally carry transport, but for today had been stopped or re-routed.

We had a little altercation with a jewellery seller yesterday in that he gave me a bad 50 rupee note that nobody would accept. He knew it of course and when I went back to him today to face him with that very same dodgy note, he hung his head down to the ground and wouldn't dare look at me. He got a bit of a lesson in not messing with some people! I took an item of jewellery from his store, probably about 150 rupees worth, threw the dodgy 50 rupee note at him and walked away. He stood in shock and didn't dare to come after me. Hope he might think twice next time!

More shopping...will it ever end! Shiera's wardrobe is growing at quite a rate! Mine is a bit static...no more money left! Well, you have to get the bargains before leaving, and Calcutta is superb as long as you bargain hard and take no prisoners and always walk away at least twice to gauge if they will call you back. We have walked away up to 5 times in some case to get the lowest price. Always no more than half what they start asking for. Jewellery is the main overcharge. 500 can drop to 100. Clothes can drop from 350 to 100, depending on quality and time of day. The later in the day the better the price you can get. Got a new camera bag and flip-flops too. Funny really...we have all heard of Adidas...well the local Indian version is 'Odidas!

Another visit to a favourite street food stall and the delicious and spicy Batata Puri for 20 rupees followed by the best chai in India for 2 rupees a cup. They don't use plastic cups but throw-away pottery ones. That's 2 rupees!

Wednesday 1st December - It's December already...soon be Christmas! To that end I bought some Christmas cards today. They are in Hindi just to be different. No idea what they say, but neither will anyone who receives them...now that's different isn't it?

The highlight of the day was that, after much deliberation and wishing over the years, I finally bought a Sitar. Plus a carry case and what's called an electronic 'Tanpura', which makes the accompanying background sound. Searched around town and got a book and a DVD to learn to play it, and...it's big! In its case it is a bit of an item to handle. With already having my guitar, and now the Sitar plus we had to buy an extra bag to carry the extra purchases...ainly Shiera's new clothes...we have a logistics exercise on how to carry it all. I bought extra baggage allowance on the first flight to Bangkok to allow for it, but the Sitar might be a big problem. Will have to see.

Bought some medicines for Shiera's family to take back to the Philippines that are more expensive there. Here they don't bother asking for a prescription despite the warnings on the boxes.

A busy day that seemed to be spent flying from one place to another in a taxi, or taking a Tana rickshaw or walking. Tiring but achieved plenty.

We leave India tomorrow, so will post another journal from the Philippines.

Khajuraho to Calcutta (AKA Kolkata)

jeffbrad — Sat, 27 Nov 2010 17:30:00 GMT

Friday 19th November - Last day in Khajuraho and catch a train to Varanasi tonight. Train 1107A departing at 23:00, arriving at 10:50am (Rs546 class 3A). Lots of time to fill. We had a nice reakfast in the roof of the Harmony hotel. They are improving it at the oment with some iron railings, and it is very brightly painted. A cheery start to the day. Last time I was in Khajuraho I stayed at the Zen garden hotel. It is still much the same, but its menu prices seemed to have noticeably risen.

As part of a celebration the temples are all free entry today. Slightly annoying for anyone who arrived yesterday and paid to go in! We went in again and tood advantage of the space away from the touts to relax for a bit.

Found wi-fi available at the Paradise restaurant facing the lake. The only one in town I reckon. Good food and friendly staff.

The return to the Philippines has now been booked. From Kolkata via Bangkok for early December, so will be back there on 3rd December. Not sure what will be happening when we get there as this has been a radical change of plan again. There is also a possible issue over my 'Balikbayan' visa which I will not be able to solve until arriving in Bangkok.

The day dragged so much as there was nothing much to. I am reading a classic novel '1984' by George Orson which is doing my head in. I had planned for a long time to read it. Now that I am, it is a struggle. Not sure if I will be able to finish it before throwing it in the bin. Maybe it is one of those classics that is an acquired taste?

I need some fun soon. Lately it has been a drain. Travel struggles plus other stuff which has made this phase of travel in India very tiring, hence why we are leaving long before the original plan to stay until mid January. We had originally planned to go the Maldives after India. Then it changed to Africa. Then it was going to be a return to Malaysia. Now that has been scrapped and we are going back to the Philippines. All this change has become unsettling and my head is a mess as a result. I also have to resolve my credit card, as it runs out tomorrow and I need to have an address to have the replacement delivered to, which is currently at my mother's house in the UK. So, as of tomorrow, I can buy nothing that requires a credit card or on-line purchase, hence having to get flights sorted out today before it expires. A pain in the ass really.

We decided to head to the train station early, costing Rs80 for the rickshaw. Train 1107A pulled on to the platform at 9:30pm, but we couldn't get on until shortly after 10pm, until they had prepared it. It must be the cleanest train I have ever been on in India. Totally spotless and almost empty.

So we say goodbye to another place and arrive tomorrow morning in another one of India's crazy cities. Take a deep breath and here we go....

Saturday 19th November - We arrived in Varanasi (Aka Banares) at about 1:15pm. Over 2h10min later than scheduled. They have a pre-paid richshaw booth outside of the terminal. Rs5 booking fee plus charge of Rs70 to the popular and nearer Ghats. On the way we learnt that tomorrow is a festival 'Dev Deepawali' that we didn't know about. Consequently everywhere was crazier than normal, and accommodation more difficult. We ended up at the Hotel Sonmony at the Harishchandra ghat, which is just on the southern side of the old town. Rs500 for a basic box room and a shower that doesn't work. Nothing to celebrate, but enough.

After dinner in their roof restaurant where we could watch one of the ceremonial cremations taking place, we headed out for a walk. Today was actually the beginning of the festival and a stage area on the main ghat area had a show in the evening. Beginning almost coincident with the evening pooja at about 5:30pm, there was a mixture of entertainment of classical singing, dancing and presentations to local folks. It was being televised also. One of the male singers seemed familiar, and he certainly had the respect of the crowd. His style was nice to listen to, albeit a bit repetitive to the western ear.

The scene at the ghats its one of those overpowering experiences. So much going on in every direction. Worshippers enthralled in their pooja activities. Masses of tourists on a flotilla of boats watching from the Ganges. Crowds of observers filling the steps of the ghats as the lengthy, colourful and brightly illuminated pooja ritual carries through to its finale.

Considering that tomorrow is the main festival, it will be interesting to see how it exceeds the normal performance. Apparently it supposed to illuminate the ghats with 5001 lights. On the way back to the hotel even though it was 10pm, there were still cremations taking place. The process as I understand it is this....

The family bring the deceased to the ghat on a bamboo stretcher. They come from long distances sometimes as this is the most sacred place in the whole of India for Hindus. They cover the body with a coloured blanket/cloth and usually flower garlands. The body is immersed in the holy water of the Ganges and left to dry for upto an hour. The Doms or untouchables prepare the funeral pyre. Depending on how much the family are to spend, the amount of wood equivalent in weight to that of the body will be purchased. Banyan tree being cheaper than Sandalwood, which is the most expensive. If a cheaper wood is chosen then sometimes sandalwood dust is also sprinkled onto the pyre. The body is placed on the pyre and a final layer of wood placed on top after a ceremony has taken place. An elder of the family or group is chosen to bring the flame to the pyre from the 'Eternal flame', which is kept close to the ghat and never allowed to go out. He must circle the pyre five times anti-clockwise, symbolising the elements of Ether, Earth, Wind, Fire and Water, before then lighting the whole pyre. The body will burn for many hours before completely turning to ash, but after about 2 hours the head is broken to release the spirit. Apparently, it is common for a bone to remain after the cremation, which is then cast into the Ganges. A higher level platform is available for the cremation of someone from a higher caste.

There are five people who cannot be cremated here...A Saddhu, Child, Diseased person (such as Leprosy), Brahmin or someone with a snake bite. A cow can never be cremated. They must be left to die (never killed or put out of their pain prematurely), and their body thrown in to the river.

They have built a new double chimney incinerator in front of the hotel on the ghat. This is for use by people either in a hurry, or in poor weather when it might be too wet for a riverside cremation. This type of cremation costs about 500 rupees, whereas a normal one might be between 3000 to 4000 depending on the amount of wood used and other costs, such as the Brahmin's fees. They have to provide options to the family depending on how much they can afford.

Sunday 21st November - A day spent wandering the streets, mainly around the old town and burning ghats. Cinemascope in full Technicolour with spacial effect surround sound in full polyphonic spectrum.... In other words...a full on assault on your senses from every direction! Varanasi is India on overload. Thousands of people, ranging from poor to extremely poor seem to crowd every square inch. In between them plough the motorbikes, rickshaws and bicycles. Making it impossible to move at any great speed in any direction without fear for your life. Snake charmers were in abundance. Taking advantage of your slow pace are the every abundant touts trying to offer anything from a boat ride, a look in their shop, or generally some pleasant sound of friendship. Which actually means.. Come and look in my shop!

The sight of hundreds of beggars in one place, sleeping amongst the most disgusting filth and covered in dirt, is frankly revolting. The smells come thick and fast, and we are lucky to be able to escape. On the path between one ghat and another, a beautiful stone building, many hundreds of years old, reeks with the smell and festering stains of human urine. Even worse, are the 'deposits' left at the base of the wall. Without thought to its implications or whether it is acting like the animals that pass, so called human beings just squat and excrete or urinate almost anywhere. Words fail to convey how horrid a sight that is. And their children watch and learn and do the same. What does the future hold with behaviour like that?

India is an incredible country despite how filthy it is. The problem is, how does it progress from here when the majority of its occupants think that behaviour as described above is acceptable. The ridiculous amount of rubbish around is a factor to. It isn't easy to fix of course, as you need to dispose of waste, and they have no real way of doing that. Too big a problem and too costly to fix, and even harder to maintain. So I doubt it will ever change.

In the evening the activities got started around 5:30pm with thousands of oil lamps being lit on the ghat steps. Many in fancy designs. At the same time, massive stacks of speakers blurted out at eardrum piercing volume, a bollywoodesque soundtrack. There were still cremations taking place in the burning ghat areas, so it created a surreal image...Cremating bodies, surrounded by lamps, backed by Bollywood, and with fireworks going off overhead...where else would you get that? Now if that isn't enough. We were watching this scene, and a guy appeared and removed a couple of burning logs from one of the burial pyres and carried them off to his wife waiting up the steps. Nothing immediately unusual you might think. They were cooking there dinner with the wood from the pyre...covered in dead persons ashes! India... Incredible isn't it!

Thousands of people, dressed for the occasion, were sandwiched in to the main ghat areas. We couldn't get through and had to give up trying to get a close up. It didn't matter as we got the idea. Shiera had dressed up in white saree again, so attracted a lot of attention. No sane woman would wear white in this place. And she isn't Indian, so they were fascinated with her. She likes the attention.

Monday 22nd November - A late night last night. The music played until late and the area was generally noisy. Cremations were still happening through until midnight, which was surprising.

We had breakfast at the chilled Lotus café facing the ghats. A trio of Japanese girls were doing strange things with eye glasses shaped like cookies. The video was to be posted on youtube. Apparently a theme they have with their travels around the world. The Japanese do have some strange habits, but there are some weird travellers around from all countries. I met someone once who photographed her teddybear everywhere she went. A guy wore a particular hat in every location. Odd really, but why not indeed.

Down at the ghats there were many weddings today. We watched one of them for a while. Arranged I guess, and different from others I have seen. The groom had a coloured garland hanging over his face and what looked like a gag in his mouth. His hands were dyed yellow and his feet red inside his pointed alibaba shoes. The bride seemed very depressed. Very young and possibly scared. Weddings in this setting are very public and chaotic. A raised wooden platform is used for the actual ceremony. Following yesterday's crazy atmosphere, today seemed very subdued, guessing that many people have now gone home or moved on elsewhere.

We spent the evening at the Lotus café chatting to a lady from Germany about the Indian culture and life in general. It is always one of those fascinating pastimes of travellers to talk about opinions on everything from religion, to clothing styles, to the meaning of life etc. On our way back to the hotel we paused as usual at the Harishchandra ghat in front of the hotel to see more cremations. These were a bit more graphic than some others we had seen. Arms and legs still burning were poking out of the flames and I think it was a bit too graphic for Shiera to take.

Tuesday 23rd November - After checkout at 10am we had the day to spend before departing at 5pm for the train station. Breakfast at the Alka Hotel's restaurant overlooking the Ganges. Some shopping for bargain clothes and then aimed for the Golden Temple. Unfortunately, non-Hindus cannot enter and so it was a waste lof time really. I managed to poke my head around one of the doors and caught a small glimpse, but that was all.

Lunch at the superb Brown Bread Bakery near to the Golden Temple. Their menu is the most extensive in Varanasi, from Thai, Chinese, Indian to tibetan food plus lots of goodies from around the world as well of some nice cheeses, some coming from Auroville near to Pondicherry. We headed to Varanasi Junction train station early as the traffic is a bit nuts ans took about 30 minutes to get there.

Train 3050 Amritsar to Howrah Express arrived at 19:50, only half an hour late, which was good. And departed 15 minutes later. It is going to be a long journey, arriving at Kolkata's Howrah station about 4pm tomorrow....or so we expected. Bedding sorted and crawled into our sleepers whilst the train rolled gently out into the night. A guy left the train at about 2am or so and switched on the lights to get his luggage, waking up everyone around. Later on another guy took a call on his cellphone and obviously wanted to share it with the whole train his vice was that loud. Starting at about 7am or so, the intermittent song of 'chai chai coffee coffee chai' at each station flowed through the carriage. Counting the hours away is like soeone keeping on moving the goal posts. The original 4pm became 8pm as our new expected arrival time in kolkata. By 5:30pm it was dark outside and the reality that we had been travelling since leaving our hotel in Varanasi for 24 hours now, and still some time to go. We did manage to get some food on the train to supplement what we had brought. Some belpuri, some chicken biryani with only a vague hint of chicken, and best of all some hard boiled eggs with salt to dip in. At least that was protein at 5 rupees each.

Have managed to get through quite a bit of the 1984 book now. It was funny to find that some of the pages were blank. This dodgy copy, and obviously why it was sold cheap, had many blank pages hidden in the volume. The funny thing was that I didn't lose the plot at all without them. Some books are like that. You can miss loads and it doesn't matter.

Arriving at Howrah station wasn't as bad as I expected. Some porters boarded the train before it stopped. But it was easy to stop them being annoying. The pre-paid taxi booth is right outside and it only cost Rs65 to get a famous yellow cab to the Chowringhee area Sudder street. Within a short distance of enetering the street the touts appeared trying to promote their place or someone else's in an attempt to get commission. With some they got a bit annoying and would not stop following dispite attempts to fend them off. We didn't get the place we wanted at the Galaxy Hotel but will try again tomorrow. Booked into the Delite Hotel for Rs600. Promise of Hot shower but didn't happen, fan and TV. At about 1am a group arrived and for a ages were arguing with the reception who wanted them to accept a room and hand over their money without actually seeing the room. On and on it went. Considering the room is only a few metres from reception, it took him ages to see the room and then it went quiet. I guess they left. We had seen the same room and it was filthy. Paint peeling off the walls and what looked like fungus. And he wanted them to pay 700 for it. No wonder they left. But anyway, it broke the night's sleep. Ther noises throughout the night caused disturbance. We have until December 2nd in Kolkata, so have to move somewhere else quieter.

Thursday 25th Nov - We secured a room at the Galaxy hotel and then had breakfast at the Blue Sky café on Sudder street. The immediate area is really nice and it will be a pleasure to spend a while here. More on Calcutta in the next journal....

Rishikesh to Delhi

jeffbrad — Sat, 27 Nov 2010 17:15:00 GMT

Monday 8th November - Time to move on today, and we are heading to Jim Corbett's Tiger Reserve. The main entrance is at Ramnagar. First step was a Vikram from the Taxi stand on the other side of the Ganges to the main bus stand (Rs40, but they tried to charge Rs100). Straight on to a waiting bus to Haridwar's main bus stand opposite the railway station for Rs22. Finding a bus to Ramnagar was a little tricky, but is became apparent that, contrary to what the guidebook said, we would not get a bus direct there. Instead we had to first go to Kashipur, supposedly taking 3hours (Rs114), but actually arriving at 3pm, 4 1/2 hours. Getting into Kashipur bus station was crazy as it is just over a railway line and we had to wait for three trains to pass. Whilst we waited the bus filled with people again, who knew it was wiser than trying to get on at the bus station, less than 100mtrs away. When we came to getting off the bus it was nuts. It was a fight, with bodies squashed in everywhere making it ridiculous to extract our luggage without causing injury.

After finally getting out and calming down a bit, we ended up having to walk back the way we came to pick up the main highway, where we got a bus to Ramnagar for Rs15. We arrived just before 6pm. Corbett motel Rs600 for nice room with hot shower. The biggest surprise was that they served non-veg as well as veg meals in their restaurant. Meat overload!

Tuesday 9th November - We had arranged last night to go on a safari today into Jim Corbett's Tiger Reserve. Sounds easy. Meant a really crazy procedure in reality. At 4:30am we got woken up by a rap on our door. On with some warm clothes and then jumped onto an open top 4WD to be taken to the park's reservation centre to get our entry permits for this afternoon. The early entry permits were all full, so not possible. The office doesn't open until 6am and initially it wasn't clear as to why we were there so early. The madness was unbelievable. Bodies pushed and shoved into a human sandwich in typical Indian fashion. Fights broke out and guys were clawing at each other's throats and punching each other. Shiera and I were the only foreigners there and were put at the head of the queue, where we could see the scrum. I was flabberghasted to see them behaving worse than the animals they were aiming to see. No order, no dignity, no intelligence, just animal behaviour.

At 6am the doors opened and we were shuffled in. The guy behind the counter gave out forms to fill in and so everyone scurried off to fill them in. All the crazy fighting on the way in, and it didn't matter as everyone still had to go through the same process and re-queue after completing their forms. Luckily, we didn't have to as our guide, the co-owner of the Corbett Motel took Rs1500 (from the total 2800 for the whole safari trip) from me and told us to join the driver and go back to the motel. He would deliver our permits later.

The total cost of an afternoon safari to Bijrani zone on a day visit permit would be 2,800 rupees....

Rs450 each for the day visit permit

Rs500 for the vehicle fee (max of 4hrs in the park)

Rs100 for Who knows what else!

Rs300 for a compulsory guide

Rs1000 for the vehicle hire

Of course when I asked if we could find others to share with to reduce the cost, I didn't expect them to find anyone. There is no incentive, as they earn more by having less people in each vehicle and we were the only foreigners there. The early morning tour is apparently booked up fully in advance via the internet. Surprised to hear it, so not sure if it is true. Anyway, I guess the suck any independent travellers into going alone to make more money out of us. There is a limit of 30 vehicles into some areas at a time, so first come first served. Hence the scrum getting the permits I guess?

Jim Corbett's Tiger Reserve was established in 1936 and covers 1288 square kilometres. The potential list of wildlife to see in the park is quite extensive other than the Tiger. In reality, what can be seen is a bit different. In an afternoon's safari lasting between 2pm and 5:30pm we only saw a few spotted deer and a couple of Muntjaks (Barking deer). The elusive tiger remained just that. We passed many other jeeps who had a similar lack of success. Yesterday they also saw nothing. It was interesting to learn from our guide his opinion that this park has almost no interest in the preservation or conservation of the animals. No monitoring programme, although I wonder abut that. His opinion was that they, the government, are only after the tourist money. I have to agree. The costs are ridiculous. The difference between local and foreign tourist is far too much. The process of getting into the park crazy and undignified. The opportunists attempting to fleece extra money out of you are many. We all know that animals do not perform or appear to order, but the promises are high, the reality low, and the profits high.

Wednesday 10th Nov - Moving on to Delhi today. Train 5036A (Corbett Link Express) departing Ramnagar at 9:50am and due to arrive at 3:20pm (Rs77 each) . The Ramnagar end was fine. Its first stop was Kashipur where the normal Indian Phenomenon occurred. The train went from almost empty to overflowing in a matter of minutes, with bodies clambering over each other for a little space. A majority ended up standing. Why they have to overfill everything is ridiculus, but it is normal. Arguments break out as people's tempers get frayed and peace vanishes.

I managed to finish reading Dan Brown's latest novel 'The Lost Symbol' during the journey. Another masterpiece of creative and very technical writing. I am a big fan of his stories, and this one excels his previous ones. Cannot wait to see the movie, which I am sure will follow.

We arrived at Old Delhi's station at 3:25pm and enter the chaotic world of one of the world's busiest and craziest cities. My last memories of Old Delhi were nuts and this time proved a similar experience. We caught a cycle rickshaw from outside the station to Paharganj area, which took over an hour, where we managed to get a spacious and clean room at Ajay's Guest House in the main bazaar (Rs1000 inc TV and aircon). Cable connection Internet is available downstairs in the café area. You can tell the bazaar area is a backpacker area as soon as you pull into the road. Stripey clothes and shops selling backpacks appear along with the steady flow of travellers strolling around. I expected it to be a bit crazy, but when we arrived it seemed a bit quieter than I expected. That was just a deception.

The immediate area of Paharganj is a bit rough, but typical. We wandered around for a while in the evening to get our bearings. A motorcycle crashed into the side of an auto rickshaw in front of us. The driver came off lightly with only a cut to his arm. Not surprised it doesn't happen more often in these crazy crowded streets.

We bought a canned drink and couldn't find anywhere to throw the empty can. We asked a stall holder if he had a bin. He took the can and threw it on the ground....'This is India', were his words. I looked at some 'Om' peace stickers on his cart and he said he had many other styles in his shop if I wanted to come with him. Ironic that they sell so many 'Peace' stickers in a place that seems so far removed from peace!

Thursday 11th November - Today is Shiera's 27th birthday and also 6 months since we were married in the Philippines. It should be a happy occasion but stuff is happening back in the Philippines that has put a total dampener on the sutuation. Neither of us slept well last night and this morning was overshadowed with a tense atmosphere and deep thought. It seems to be happening all too often nowadays. We spent most of the day in a cloud. Ironic really, as we are in a place that seems to hang in a cloud of pollution. Especially noticeable when the light begins to fade. Vehicles and people disappear into what seems like a dense fog barely 30 metres away. Compared to some cities in India, this particular area isn't as bad with traffic and cycle riskshaws seem to outnumber motor-driven transport. I think it is more due to the greenhouse effect of the heat and narrow streets. As a result, my cough has returned with a vengence and I am becoming extremely intolerant to being anywhere near to anyone who smokes. It seems as though every traveller is lighting up these days. Every net café and eating place is full of smokers. Surprising in an age of health awareness.

Oh dear. When I look at the past couple of entries I have written, it seems all a bit black doesn't it. Bad timing and the big city effects. So despite the birthday and sixmonthyversary, there were no celebrations. No nice meal. Just a snack in a café in silence as we both digested what was happening back in the Philippines, and how it was affecting our plans and how to handle it. Nothing seemed right.

As a result, It looks like we may have to abandon our plans for more travel and go back to the Philippines to resolve the problems.

In desparation I had to go out for a walk and do something to break the impasse. I bought Shiera some nice pink roses. It brought some cheer. The colour Pink always has a lifting effect. Short respite from reality and too many tears and arguments to recover the situation.

To put some things into perspective, there was a terrible story was in the newspaper on saturday morning. A 22yr old student from Europe had arrived on Thursday, and was found dead in his hotel room around the corner from where we are staying on Friday. Not sure of the full story, but wouldn't be surprised if this was to be the start of a larger journey that didn't get beyond day 1. Maybe even straight out of university and taking a gap year. Note sure. The streets here are full of unscrupulous drug dealers offering drugs incessantly to anyone who passes, us included. For many travellers in India, Delhi will be their first experience of India. Chaotic, noisy, dusty, and full on attack from touts of every kind. It is easy to imagine that some will succumb to possibly their first experience of 'freedom' and are easy prey. A sad story, but not the first time I have heard it.

We have managed to break the impasse that is affecting our situation. We will complete the last few destinations as soon as possible and return the the Philippines. To make the situation additionally complicated, my credit card company in the Uk have changed owner and replaced my card with a new one, taking effect very soon. I only found out about a day ago. It means that booking anything on line has become difficult without a credit card. We need to be somewhere for a week where I can receive an urgent delivery from the Uk, so will finish our tour of India in Kolkata (AKA Calcutta), where I can make arrangements and buy flights as soon as it has arrived. It means escaping Delhi as soon as possible and heading down to Agra to visit the one of the most famous icons in India, the Taj Mahal. Off to the 'International Tourist Bureau and reservation centre' at New Delhi railway station first floor of the main building. A brightly lit and spacious office, with quite an impressive system in operation. Soft couch furnishings for you to sit in whilst you wait your turn to be served. No ticket system, just shuffle along the seats nearing the counters. The really nice staff were so helpful and got us sorted quickly. We booked three trains in succession: Delhi to Agra, Agra to Khajuraho, and Khajuraho to Varanasi, with two days at each location for sightseeing. No hassle, no standing in crazy queues, and service with a smile.

Some of the cloud seemed to have lifted now that we have made a decision and got on with sorting it. So in celebration we did some retail therapy and had a nice meal.

Near to the Ajay is the Diamond restaurant. They serve the most awesome steak. The co-owner arrived to take our dessert order. We asked him if he did the menu himself. They were brand new. 'Yes' he said...as he bristled with pride. 'I thought so'...there were so many hilarious spelling mistakes, that there was hardly a line without a mistake. And it was recommended by 'The Lonely Plant', emblazened in bold letters on the front cover.

14th November - Train 2626 Kerala Express departing New Delhi at 11:30am, arriving in Agra at 14:25 (Rs332 class 3A).

The train was smooth and quiet. A guy opposite was carrying a DVD player, so we were treated to a Bollywood movie for the journey. We arrived at 3pm and fortunately, the hotel Saniya had sent a rickshaw to pick us up. They touts try their best as usual to bombard you as you try to escape the station. As soon as the guy appeared bearing a sheet of paper with my name on it, they dropped and walked away. Malik was a really nice guy and we soon came to an arrangement for his services over the next day or so to visit the other sights after visiting the taj Mahal. The room at the Saniya Palace Hotel in the Taj Ganj area is a bit small, but for Rs500 about average apparently for this area.

Without further ado we needed to get our entrance tickets for tomorow morning to make it a bit quicker in the morning. The South gate entrance was only a 5 minute walk and we got our tickets...Rs750 each, including by a small bag with a bottle of water and some red overshoes to be worn for protection of the surfaces of the mausoleum.

Back to the Saniya hotel for dinner and watch the sun set facing the Taj. An unterrupted view of one of the seven wonders of the world. A major world icon, and without question deserving it. I have been before, about 3yrs ago, but it is such a captivating sight each time you see it.

Shiera will wear a saree to the Taj tomorrow and we will be going at sunrise when the gate opens at 6am, so had to get sorted this evening. A last minute visit to a tailor to have an adjustment made and some help from his lovely family to help her put it on, and we got it sorted.

Monday 15th Nov - Up at 5am for preparations with The saree and make-up etc. For me, it takes about 7 minutes total to take a shower and get dressed. For Shiera 1 hour! The Eastern gate opened at 6:30am, but it is important to get there earlier before the mass crowds of tourists appear. We arrived about 5:45am and weren't the first. By 6:30am there were hundreds of people forming a long queue down the road. Anyone without baggage got in through the security checking quickly, so it is better to arrive as light as possible. No tripods allowed! Before the tourists are allowed in, the guides and appointed photographers are let in and run to get in position. They realise that many people cannot take couple or group shots, so take advantage of it for some business. We agreed with a guy to take photos for us and we ended up paying him 300 rupees for his time...he wanted more of course. For an hour or so we almost raced around the Taj Mahal grounds taking photos without the crowds before the sun came up about 7:30am. To be fair, there was no way we could have achieved some of the great shots he took, so it was well worth it. He knew all the angles for the best pictures. It would be another month until the sun would rise in the ideal position and give the Taj the pink glow that is one of its most beautiful attributes.

The Taj Mahal is such a famous iconic site. Arriving early is very tranquil and very orderly with no problems with getting your own bit of space for photos. Everyone was patient, and we also helped others out with their photos. All amicable.

The main mausoleum is a beautiful sentiment of a man's (Shah Jahan) besotted love for his wife Mumtaz. Ok, not many people go to the extreme of building such a monument to their devotion, but that is what makes it such a wonderful place to visit. No photos allowed inside the mausoleum and it is kept in the dark for preservation reasons. We actually spent longer than expected as it is well worth a couple of laps of the grounds taking more photos. Shiera looked so beautiful today ands so many people wanted to stop and take photos of her it was lovely. Proud husband!

We returned to the Saniya for breakfast and a freshen up before heading out on the rest of the day's activities tlo visit the 'Baby Taj' across the Yamuna river, and Agra Fort.

We had arranged to be picked up at the hotel by a rickshaw driver. When he arrived, he transferred the duty to his father as he had to go to college. His father took us out of the main area and stopped on a main road about a kilometre away. He then started to discuss where we were going and the price. He wanted to charge us 750 rupees for three sights within a few kilometres so we refused his prices and, when he wouldn't budge, got out of his rickshaw and hailed down a cycle rickshaw who ended up charging us 120 rupees for the same thing. The other guy's loss! We expected Malik to come to the hotel at some stage over the next day or so to apologise, but I don't think he wanted to embarrass himself.

The baby Taj isn't really a baby version at all. They have just capitalised on the fame of the bigger site to attract tourists by its name. It is worth a visit though and to be honest, its stonework is more detailed and beauiful than the Taj Mahal. Rs100 entry and save Rs10 if you have your Taj ticket with you.

I have come up with a radical idea today. All tourists MUST carry a firearm and by order of the government, shoot idiot touts or anyone who willfully tries to deceive or otherwise cause anguish to any tourist through a lack of respect of the intelligence of mankind and the inability to compute in any currency of the world the correct REAL value of what they are either offering or selling. Over a very short period of time, tourism in India would change radically and beyond recognition to that of a sane and controlled country, rather than the chaotic, anarchistic and downright disrespectful place that it currently is. To initiate this campaign I purchased a bullwhip from a street seller for a bargain price of 100 rupees, to whip the ass of any other idiot that crosses my path. Do I make my message clear?

One example...a bangle seller agrees 20 rupees for the rather naff item he is sleeing. So you agree and he then says, that will be 20 dollars! What, 20 dollars. You said 20 rupees. I cannot possibly sell this item for 20 rupees. That will be 750 rupees! The junk in his hand is rubbish. Under my rules, he would not get a second chance at insulting the intelligence of another single human being...Bang!

The cycle rickshaw guy who agrees 20 rupees for 'Any' Journey in Agra, to then ask for hundreds of rupees when you get there, claiming his poor health as the reason... Bang!

The guy who shows you a stone box for 20 rupees, which becomes 700 rupees if you show any sign of slowing down....Bang!

The 'Bollywood movie' syndrome in India leads to a fanciful idealism that the chaos of life has some hidden order that exonerates you from the mayhem you cause. The hero always comes out in the end without a scratch and dances the finale in a blaze of glory and colour. If only real life was like that!

The olympic games sacrifices. The world expects you to mess it up. You do mess it up to a point. So you still wait until a significant country pays you a visit to make a sacrificial lamb of some of your upper echelon, to make the world think you have fixed the problem. If only the reality was that simple.

16th November - Off to the 'Big Bazaar' to watch the movie Golmaal 3. It was Hindi only but that didin't matter. It is noticeable that India doesn't seem to do shopping malls that well. This area has two of them next to each other, and both are in neglect, with signs that many occupying stores have closed down and left. So much empty space that it feels dead. Another mall looks under construction next door, but that looks to have been abandoned before completion. We guess that it is due to the cheap price of goods on the streets. Why should anyone pay mall prices for any item you can get on the street for a fraction of the price?

The cinema was another one of those frustrating experiences. We bought some drinks and snacks to take in, but were refused at the security checking at the entrance. No food or drink allowed in the cinema! So imagine the frustration when, at the intermission, a guy appeared at our seats to take an order for food and drink, which he then delivered on a tray, and at an obviously inflated price. My imaginary gun was about to come out and shoot some more people.

A quick McDonald's and then a short walk to the Kalakriti culture and convention centre to buy tickets for tonight's show 'Mahabbat The Taj 'The saga of love''. More on that later.

With plenty of time to lose before the show, we took a random walk and luckily came on an interesting place, the 'Spiritual Museum'. We were the only ones there and the guy had to open it up for us. The building was constructed like two halfs of a shell with the main building being the pearl in between. It was basically a story of peace, karma and man's struggle between enlightenment and the troubled world we lie in. Fascinating idea and well worth the visit.

The show began at 6:30pm but the building also houses a crafts emporium which opened at about 5:30pm when coach after coach began to appear. A hoard of salesmen flocked the people, us included as we arrived. No pressure selling fortunately. The standard of workmanship was superb, and the pricetag of the articles reflected that. You get what you pay for of course. Most of the coaches were full of affluent tourists who probably never see a 'real' bazaar or shop for their entire time in India, and certainly have never experienced the wonders of a budget hotel!

The show was awesome. Bollywood meets the mughal empire. A dazzling show of spectacular colour, dance, lighting and story. Telling the tale of Shah Jahan and his besotted love for his wife Mumtaz, and the subsequent creation of the Taj Mahal as a mausoleum following her death. Over an hour worth of excellent entertainment.

At about 10pm we took a rickshaw to Agra Cantt station (Rs50). Train 2448 Agra Cantt to Khajuraho was supposed to be departing at 23:20, arriving at 06:50 (Rs541 class 3A). It actually didn't arrive at Agra until 1:45am. 2hr25min late. The smell of the station's platform was revolting. Like a public toilet but even worse. As usual, most Indian people are either oblivious to it, or have no sense of smell. Having to spend so long waiting with such a smell is disgusting. A vagrant was trawling amongst the effluent on the track in search of water bottles, which he then took to the free water dispenser and filled with water. It's enough to make you vomit. But most people will never experience having to be in that position. It makes you sad at the loss of dignity that some have to accept.

Anyway... Our carriage B2 was a surprise... As it was nowhere near B1. Everyone got caught out and the platform was a frenzy when the train did arrive, as carriage B2 was about half way along the train, a run of over 200 metres with the train only being on the platform for less than 5 minutes. Aggravated, and sweaty, everyone had to pile on to the train and battle it out to get organised as it pulled away from the platform. Crazy isn't sufficent to explain it. The trains late arrival did mean that we wouldn't be arriving in Khajuraho until around 9am now.

Having had a long and busy day, we were almost falling asleep on the platform before boarding the train. I reckon it took only a few minutes after settling into the sleeper bed and I was out like a light. Managed to get a good sleep and didn't wake up until around 7:30am when we got to Mahoba station. Unlike the crazy noise when you are in Sleeper class, 3AC is a bit subdued and were mostly foreigners, so we finished the journey in relative peace.

Kharuraho's railway station is relatively new and as such is still clean and organised. Give it time! Outside awaits a gathering of hotel touts and rickshaw drivers ready to pounce on arrivees. Not too difficult to handle and we soon boarded a rickshaw to town, some 6km or so way. You see different figures quoting the distance to the town at anything from 5 to 8km, so it must move about a lot!

The original plan to stay at the Harmony hotel on the main Jain temple road was a little marred by the tout from the station being a bit deceiving with the prices. Also we had to pay for the transport and the other Indian occupants didn't pay, which was annoying. We decided to stay at the Surya Hotel a short way along the block. A really nice place. Spacious room, balcony, TV and lovely gardens, for Rs500, as opposed to Rs770 for less of a room at the Harmony.

Breakfast first then out to see the temples...

Khajuraho has one claim to fame. It is the location of one of the most famous group of temples in India. Referred to as the 'Erotic temples' of Khajuraho, for their depiction in very graphic detail chiselled into stone of the Karma Sutra, plus some other acts of sexual perversion that definitely do not appear in the Karma Sutra, mainly involving animals! The detail and beauty of these temples set around a nice green lawn with flower bushes and trees is wonderful. There has been much restoration work done. I was here 3 years ago and there was much scaffolding about then. Now it is finished, so we had a nice unspoilt view. This was going to be one of the highlights of India for Shiera. In fact, she only wanted to really see two places in India, Taj Mahal and Khajuraho! Both boxes now ticked.

Entrance fee is Rs250 for foreigner, and audio guide Rs100 if you want it. We didn't bother, as your eyes can tell you enough! It was a very hot day today, and about 4 hours covered the western group of temples. I think a certain lady was 'On Heat' after the suggestive sights...hormone overload ;-)

Khajuraho town is really a mixture of village atmosphere coupled with wall-to-wall tourism. Many shop owners vie for your attention, shouting at you across roads and even following us some way trying to persuade us to return to their shop. To be fair, they are pleasant about it generally. The first question is always to find out which country you are from, so that they can work out your currency, exchange rate, price level to charge etc. So many are obvious rip-off merchants. We have got totally frustrated with these people now and take no prisoners with dealing with them. No more on that subject or I will dive off into another tirade about Indian selling tactics. Much of the stuff on sale is related to Karma Sutra as you can imagine.

Being a prime destination for tourism means that almost every nationality of food is available here. Reasonable quality too. Had a beer and was so tired that a brief rest turned into losing most of the evening. It was dark when I woke up and had missed the sunset. Have I mentioned...to get a licence to sell beer in India costs lots of rupees, so they sell it, but do not advertise it on their menus. You have to ask for it. Your bill will show it is 'Big Juice' or 'Soft Drink' or something like that. For the same 660ml Kingfisher we have been charged anything from 70 rupees to 150 rupees. Depending on the state you are in, the MSP (Minumum Selling price) and MRP (Retail price) will be different. Most restaurants will tell you that if they don't sell beer, foreigners will go elsewhere for their meal, so they are forced to sell it.

Thursday 18th November - After breakfast at the Swiss hotel and visiting the rather quiet Tourist Information centre we went to the bus stand Railway Booking centre to book our train from Varanasi to Kolkata. A small place and quick to get sorted. Heading back towards the main Jain Temples road across the open market area is interesting. An informal dirt ground with lots of nice local produce. There is a rather strange fruit around at the moment. Not sure what it is called, but it is like a shrivelled bud about 5cm across and ranging from dark purple to black, with a white creamy centre. Not seen it anywhere else other than here and in Agra.

A nice walk to the Eastern group of temples is worth doing as it passes the old town which we returned to later. The main Eastern temple has some superb carving. Not as erotic as in the western group, but very sensuously done.

The old town is lovely. Quaint randomly designed houses painted in pastel colours and kept really tidy by their owners. The children were out playing games and the familys sitting around relaxing. They have some interesting paintwork outside of the houses. With Diwali having only just passed, some of the flower (cannot remember the proper name)designs were still evident adding to the colour. There is a bit of a gauntlet you have to run whilst passing through the village. Almost everyone you pass wants either money, or for you to come into their home. Again, wanting money for the experience. They are really sweet though, and you can't be too hard with them, as tourism is a bit of a livelihood for them. Every child either asks for money, a pen, or even a dollar. Better to give them a sweet or food I think.

We bought Shiera a Karma Sutra book. As if she needs any more excitement! What is it about hormones?

19th November - Train 1107A Khajuraho to Varanasi departing at 23:00, arriving at 10:50am (Rs546 class 3A).

Manali to Rishikesh

jeffbrad — Wed, 10 Nov 2010 19:30:00 GMT

Wednesday 27th October - Had to get up at 5am to catch the 7am bus to Shimla from the bus stand in lower Manali. What we were hoping for was some transport down there, but there was nothing. All in the dark and closed up, so we had to walk a fair part of the way. Luckily a van passed and took us the rest of the way. We arrived a few minutes before 6am, and as it happened, were dropped right in front of the Shimla bus. Despite asking if it was the 7am bus and feeling confident that it was, we loaded our luggage. To our surprise, at 6am the driver got in and the bus pulled out of the station. Puzzled looks...mmmm? We showed the conductor our ticket and he seemed happy for us to be on the early bus. We had planned to stock up with food for the journey and go to the chemist, but this gave us no chance at all.

The first stop was at Kullu at 7:20, departing at 7:45am. A little time to get some drinks and snacks.

Some other passengers boarded and claimed we were in their seats. True, as we were on the earlier bus than our ticket. Turned out that we were on a deluxe bus instead of a semi-deluxe and had to pay another Rs250 for the two of us or get off and catch the original bus when it arrived later. I paid the difference as it was likely to be more comfortable and had video too.

As mentioned in my last journal, I have been ill with what I now feel is the onset of a chest infection. I have been coughing badly to the point where my brain feels like it is going to burst out of my skull each time I cough. Have been taking some medication from our kit and it isn't that effective, so need some better antibiotics when I reach Shimla. Being bounced around for 10 hours on a bumpy bus journey isn't the best experience, especially after getting up so early. The joys of travel!

The videos they played all contained the famous Shah Rhuk Khan and some equally well known actresses. My favourite Om Shanti Om, brought back memories of when I saw it on the cinema during my last visit to India. The usual electrifying Bollywood musical script flourished with hyperactive dancing every few minutes.

Descending out of the mountains and the temperature climbed noticeably. Had to start peeling layers of clothing off. We arrived at Shimla's bus stand about 5pm. Porters wait to help with luggage up the steep slopes if required. Reasonable at 20 rupee per large item. May as well make life easier and save the strain. Ended up at the Gulomarg hotel in a 'honeymoon' type room. Circular bed with mirrors everywhere, TV and a great view of the valley, for Rs1,230. Shimla isn't the cheapest place, but it is worth it.

One thing is certain about Shimla...there is almost zero flat area. Almost everywhere you go is a climb or decent. Plays havoc with your legs and knees, but it is an amiable place, centered on the wonderfully named Scandal Point, and the open ridge area with lovely views and its commanding church.

You can tell it is a holiday city and that we are now in holiday season. The level of tourists, predominantly Indian, are higher than anywhere else we have been recently.

Seeing as I have just finished Dan Brown's Angels & Daemons book, I bought his latest novel The Lost Symbol. Looking forward to it immensely.

Thursday 28th - A day of recovery after yesterday's long day travelling. I found a nice barber's shop for an all over shave and massage. A bargain at 110 rupees to come out glowing and smooth. Shiera on the other hand had her hair curled, for less of a bargain 1,500 rupees. Why does women's hair cost so much? From a guy's perspective it always seems so over-priced. She looked so prettier and lovelier after having it done, so worth it though.

One thing about Shimla that is a bit tricky is food. We have been going through a bit of a lull with food recently, partly due to the effects of being in the mountains and not getting what we have been after... Comfort food. After a long time of eating in restaurants up to three times a day, we have become very choosy and hard to please. Desperate to cook for ourselves exactly what we want. We love Indian food, but hardly go into an Indian restaurant, preferring pasta or even junk food instead. Why is it that with so much choice available, we always crave for what is not available? Subway came to a partial rescue today. A nice sandwich for a change. Bought plenty of fresh fruit as it is good here. Grapes, the most beautiful locally grown Kiwi fruit I have ever tasted (100 rupees for a box of 20) and even Persimmon are on offer.

Rambling around Shimla's bazaars can take hours and sees to get steeper and steeper. You must have to be really fit to live here. Being holiday season there are plenty of discounts on offer, and nice merchandise too. Problem is no more luggage space left.

Friday 29th October - Above Shimla's centre sits the Jakhoo temple with its very visible bright orange Hanuman (monkey god) monument. Getting to it is a very steep climb, softened a little by steps, but still tough. The amusing thing is a sign board at the bottom, adjacent to the church declaring average times for age groups and level of fitness. Theoretically, I should have taken an hour, but only took 30 minutes taking into account a drinks stop. Means I have a physical age of under 30. I think the nice people who defined the target times are aiming at a psychological attempt to bolster people’s egos.

We had an awesome dinner at the Café Sol at the Combermere hotel near to the passenger lift. The most we have spent on a meal here, but well worth it.

Saturday 30th October - We booked on to a HPTDC organized tour leaving at 11am and costing Rs250 each. The sights covered were Kufri, Fagu, Naldehra, Mashobra and a Nature Park. Even though the tour was aboard a semi-deluxe bus, for some people they ended up travel sick due to the continuous throwing around and hurtling around bend after bend. The amount of folk throwing up out of the windows got a bit yuk after a while.

After a stop for photos at a valley view point in Fagu, the first main stop was at Kufri where we transferred to horses to climb the rough hill to the top. Not free...Rs250 return. A bit rough at the top too...touts offering photos on a yak, others doing photos in traditional costume. All very touristy and chaotic. There is also an amusement park with a go-kart track, but didn't have the time to go in. One thing amused me...they have a 'Telescope Union'. Old guys sitting there and charging per use of the oldest grottiest telescopes to look at yet more hills. The fact they have a union and monopolise a roped off area is crazy. What next the toilet union, the concrete steps union?

Down at the bottom we were taken to the bus by jeep, where we had lunch first at the Lalit restaurant, and then went into the Himalayan Nature Park. A 3km track runs around it and we were running late, so literally ran around. The highlight was the beautiful Snow Leopard. They also had brown and black bears, Sambar and Barking deer amongst others. After a stomach churning journey to Narkanda, we did a half hour stop at the Golf course, which is a bit of a waste of time as it is fenced off and you cannot see much anyway, with only a small view over the perimeter fence. This area is also the apple growing centre of the state. Now though, the trees are all bare.

After a tiring day we got back in Shimla at 6pm. To be honest, it is a nice opportunity to see some awesome scenery, but if you came into Shimla by bus, you would have already seen plenty of nice views. The important bits like the nature park weren't given enough time, and at this time of year it is all a bit dry and dusty, so not at its best.

Sunday 31st October - We were due on Train 256 The Toy train 'Himalayan Queen' departing at 10:30am (167 rupees each). We had been given 'wait-listed' tickets, so had to get our seat allocation at the station. Room 14, the ticket master's office. To make life easier we got a porter to carry our luggage from the hotel to the station. Really hard work for the guy and worth it.

The train departed on time and was expected to arrive in Kalka at 16:10. First stop was Summer Hill where the ticket checking was done. The route to Kalka is on narrow gauge track and goes through 103 tunnels and many stops as it slowly crawls its way down hill. Compared to making the journey on a twisting lurching crazy bus on choking noisy roads, I know which method I would sooner choose. Kandaghat was the first stop where we could pick up some chai and pakora for a snack. A large British tour group, all retired age disembarked here. Not sure where they were heading, although we saw them later in the journey when we got off in Kalka. Maybe they jumped on a bus to save some time, or visited somewhere else en-route?

The train crossed the border and entered Punjab state, arriving in Kalka at exactly 4:10pm as per the ticket. No time to waste as needed to get tickets to Chandigarh. The booking office as normal was total anarchy but I am used to it now, so got through and sorted tickets fairly quickly. The 38km journey is a bargain at 20 rupees each and departed at 6:45pm (Train 4795). According to what I had read, the journey was supposed to take 1 hour. Imagine the surprise when 30 minutes later we pulled into Chandigarh station. There was a crazy scrum as we had to scramble for our luggage amidst a surge of people trying to climb on the train and fight for seats. Madness doesn't explain it sufficiently.

As normal the auto-rickshaws were asking for 150 rupees to take us to our hotel. The more sensible and final price was 60! Hotel Satyadeep in sector 22 on Himalaya Marg for 1000 rupees, about half a kilometer from the main bus station and a bit extra to the town centre. I was totally surprised by the size of the shopping centre. Enormous, clean and very well organized. Not like any other Indian city.

Monday 1st November - The main reason for coming to Chandigarh is to visit the unique 'Nek Chand Gardens'. The entrance (Rs10) itself is unusual. A tiny little opening low in a stone wall, which you could easily miss. The gardens cover 25 acres and are a rabbit warren of stone sculptures, waterfalls, ponds and features using reclaimed scrap ranging from broken pots and tiles to electrical pieces to bangles and all type of stone scrap. It has been described as something out of Alice in wonderland, and I have to agree. Tiny archways that you have to stoop to get through lead between one wonder and another. The guy 'Nek Chand' from Pakistan who pioneered it, was an inspector on the construction team who engineered the road system in Chandigarh. His work was found accidentally when a survey team stumbled on some of his work illegally occupying government land. It was recognised to be of cultural importance and he was given additional labour to continue his work. It is said to be the second most visited tourist attraction in India after the Taj Mahal! You have to give him much credit as it is an ingenious labyrinth of different ideas which lift your spirits. There is a large auditorium area which had been used for a festival yesterday, if only we had known. Preparations were underway for a wedding too. It must be one of the most unique places for a celebration.

Chandigarh is a pleasant city which hits you as you ride around it. Laid out on a grid system of tree lined roads by Le Corbusier. It is divided into Sectors, making it easy to navigate. Almost totally flat and clean. The first time in a long while that we have seen road sweepers in operation in India! And traffic lights...that they actually pay attention to! Getting around is by Auto- rickshaw and cycle richshaw.

Expecting not to see chicken for a while, we had lunch before heading to the bus station to catch our bus to Haridwar at 1pm (200 rupees). Expecting the journey to take 6 hours, we were surprised when we arrived in Dehra Dun after 6 1/2hrs to find we had another 2 hrs to go. Apparently, they had to take a 70km diversion due to construction works. It meant that we didn't arrive in Haridwar until very late and got dropped at a juction where we could get an onward bus to Rishikesh. The crazy bus driver was so impatient to get away that he started to pull away before we had got half of our luggage off the bus, so I nearly lost my guitar and backpack! A solo lady traveller had also got dropped at the same location. A Vikram (large rickshaw) driver pulled over and kicked out his passengers to take us all to Rishikesh for 200 rupees. Seemed unfair, but it was better business for him. We asked to be dropped by the Ram Jhula area, which is fairly central to everything. Magically, a cart and driver appeared to carry the luggage over the suspension bridge to the Rajdeep hotel for 50 rupees. It is a little steep in parts, so worth it. 450Rs for a comfortable double room.

Tuesday 2nd November - Oasis café for breakfast which offers a nice range of food. Virtually all of Rishikesh is vegetarian, so even eggs can be hard to find. Luckily, the backpacker areas seem to bypass some of the rules and if you look around you can find eggs and even meat.

One of my favourite eateries is in the Lakshman area, about 2km west of the Ram Jhula area. The Devraj coffee corner across Lakshman Jhula bridge is a nice place to relax and watch the monkeys playing on the suspension bridge and bonking each other. Hardly know which way to look!

Yak cheese and tomato sandwich, Mexican bean and rice, crepe with honey & banana and cappuccino coffee....yummee...

Walked back to Ram Jhula area to watch the Ganga Aarti Pooja at the Parmarth Niketan ashram Ghat, which begins at around 5pm until about 6:30pm. In the crowd was Gurmuhk Kaur Kalsa, a leader of a Yoga foundation in Los Angeles, and very much respected in Yoga circles. She is also one of the teachers at the convention.

After a very atmospheric pooja, we had dinner at one of the unique institutions in India, the 'Chotiwala restaurant' by the Swarg ashram. The Choti wallas sit on raised chairs all day and entice people to the restaurant. Painted faces and spiked hair makes for an interesting mascot and attraction.

We arrived in Rishikesh during the 3rd International Yoga and Music festival (1st to 14th November). Every day there are free yoga, meditation and music sessions. Each evening from 7 - 8pm they have different music presented. The room fills with happy people on a trip of self exploration and discovery. The preceding 'Mantra' session has everyone clapping and chanting the 'Hari Krishna, rama rama, krishna krishna, krishna rama' thing. The lyrics are a bit limited, but easy to follow! All together now...om...shanti...om...

Thursday 4th November - We were relieved today to get rid of nearly 20kg of souvenirs and clothes we had been carrying, and dispatching it away. We had been planning to do it for some time, but it has gotten to be quite a burden to carry.

I have been considering for some time doing a Sitar course, and Rishikesh is an ideal place to do it. As there is the yoga and music convention on right now, Bhuwan Chandra, a leading teacher of Sitar is in town, so I paid him a visit at the music centre and had a brief introduction from him. Costs are Rs200 per hour, and should be able to fit in a few hours during his busy schedule I hope.

We attended a couple of hours Yoga (Yogacharya Kiran from Rishikesh) and meditation (Simon Purtschert from Switzerland) classes today. Stretched, poised and relaxed into a state of pseudo nirvana is what you come to Rishikesh for. I feel enlightened already!

India is full of so much symbology. From the mystic 'Om' symbol meaning 'Peace', to the Rudraksha nut, which is borne out of the tears of Lord Shiva, and bestows luck, health, and keeps evil spirits at bay. Every devotee who walks or crawls needs to offer prassad at every pooja, give donation after donation to the strangest of Sadhus and shrines, and generally succumb to the fears that if they don't, they may not be reincarnated into a better life than the one they have now, on their wish to progress towards enlightenment and nirvana. It seems strange to see so many poor, crippled and altogether unfortunate people, in such a dilemma about their future that continue on this road every day of their lives, amidst foreigners who have more wealth (albeit financial), better health, more freedom, and more personal dignity and yet suffer from much less conviction about any belief system. A paradox of the extremes of belief or lack of! A contentious statement I know.

Tomorrow is Diwali, and festivities are building up. The shops are full of terribly bad stuff to eat, and colourful garlands are appearing everywhere. Incredible India in celebration mode!

Friday 5th November - Today is Diwali, the festival of light. For most it is a family day. A day of cleaning your house and adding some colour. The Pooja began at 5pm at the Parmathan ghat as usual, but tonight was a special occasion and the ceremony was a lot more detailed and colourful. A guest made a nice speech about the history and meaning of Diwali. You can be financially wealthy, but you cannot buy inner peace. How true is that. Later in the evening fireworks erupted around the town, mainly in random bursts and no particular location, so hard to track them down. Plenty of noise, but once again, a bit random.

Saturday 6^th November – We were lucky to be eating at the Oasis café, a regular haunt of ours now, and right next door a wedding was happening. The groom appeared on a horse down the narrow alleyway passing the oasis, so we followed and watched him getting prepared in the reception tent. About 45 minutes later the bride appeared. Apparently the actual wedding was not going to happen for some hours, but what we saw was really nice and colourful. The young bride was bejeweled in the ornate jewellery as is normal for an Indian wedding. The groom was wearing a ‘money apron’ as best I can describe it. This wedding as is normal in village circles was an arranged one. A dowry is part of that arrangement, so the wealth is all about demonstrating ability to be a good and financially supportive husband. It looked as though the proceedings were going on all afternoon so we left it to return later. We were told the main ceremony would be around 6pm. When we got there a little after 6:30pm, everything had gone and the marquees had been packed away….all was dark. Must have misunderstood something along the way? Oh well, at least we had another great mea at the Oasis café again!

That's it for now folks...

Manali to Keylong

jeffbrad — Tue, 26 Oct 2010 09:45:00 GMT

Friday 22nd October - An early rise at 4am to go to Leh. We got picked up at 5:15am from the junction in the old village and then waited for a while down at the central bus station for extra passengers. Finally got on the road at 6:15am.

Today promised to be an incredible experience. A very long day, passing over mountains and along valleys. The section up to Rohtang La Pass at 3,978mtrs was superb, even though it was still early and the light was low. The name literally means 'Pile of Dead Bodies' from the thousands of travelers who have died there over the years. From almost approaching the peak and down the other side we had snow and a light wind, causing a difficult time due to ice on the roads. The road snakes its way through the mountain pass with a jaw dropping scenery. The snow got heavier. Something that reinforced the point that we would not stay in Leh for too long as we have to return the same route. Many vehicles struggled to make some of the climbs. Numerous abandoned vehicles along the way. Mainly trucks.

The toughness and tenacity of the people who choose to live in these places is amazing. You need to be a special sort who can tolerate it. Thick skin and a rugged attitude. Just get on with it.

Shiera's first experience of open air toilet in the snow and freezing temperatures. Sorry to mention it, but out here, the facilities are a bit rough....and a challenge to your dignity!

We stopped at Khoksar for breakfast and foreigners only passport check. A digital display read 4 degrees C.

The snow continued all the way and got heavier. By the time we reached Keylong in the Bhaga valley at 3,350mtrs, the snow was coming down thick. We all sat in the van at the bus stand for a while before it became apparent we weren't going to be moving. Apparently, the next pass up ahead was blocked, so there was no way forward. Further on in the discussions and it also became apparent that there was no way back either, as Rohtang La was now blocked also. No choice but to stay the night in Keylong and see what happens in the morning...we were snowed in!

Most of Keylong was closed for the winter, and the only accommodation choice, so it seemed was the dormitories at the Drabla guest house at the new bus stand. 100 rupees for a bed, in a shared room with some Indian tourists.

The HPTC canteen at the bus stand seemed the only choice for food and could only serve up chai, cold drinks and the usual staple of rice/dal combination. We would die if we had to stay here for long!

It was a very long night! The loudest voices in existence were in our room, with no escape. Before the night was out, like a thriller, someone would die! You can tell I’ve been reading Dan Brown can't you?

Saturday 23rd October - Well at least nobody died last night, but it was close. There was a continuous chorus of annoying guys regurgitating sputum at regular intervals, intermixed with farting and snoring. The room was a freezing cold prison cell with only candle for light as the town's electricity was out. With the only cover being three or more layers of clothing followed by duvets that must be relics from the '50s having been used in damp conditions with no wash despite being used many hundreds of times. You can imagine that this was like Shiera's worst nightmare.

We woke up early and the snow was still falling. The views though, were simply stunning. Most of the discussions seemed to indicate that we were snowed in for at least 2 or 3 days. Now how's that for Shiera's first experience of snow! Last night we built a 'Snow Bunny'. Not a normal snowman, but a snow bunny. And we had a snowball fight. Awesome!

We learnt that the town had a bazaar a short way from the bus stand, so headed there to see if we could buy Shiera some good boots, as the present ones were leaking. Keylong is a super place. Nestled in a picturesque valley with the awesome scene of the surrounding snow covered mountains and crystal clear blue sky. There is a phrase 'Every cloud has a silver lining'. Well the silver lining here is that we have been stranded in a beautiful place. Not on everyone's itinerary, but well worth it. We found a nice hotel and restaurant to relocate to called Hotel Tashi Deleg, down In the town. Good food and very nice husband and wife owner. After final confirmation with our driver that we had no choice but to stay for a couple of days, then we relocated to a super room for 500 rupees, with the most awesome view of the mountains, and...quiet.... No more farting or snoring...apart from Shiera that is! One of the walks from the central bus stand offered an incredible view along the valley. The snow blowing over the distant mountains occasionally cleared to reveal a picture postcard view to die for.

The mountain folk here are tough. And I mean really tough. Some were walking through the snow in flip-flops. I even saw some kids in T-shirts. If there skin was fairer, it would have turned blue to match the sky. As it was, they have thick and rugged skin. Many ladies wear traditional costume of black with decorative needlework. The school girls dressed in Tibetan coloured uniform. Now that the winter has set in, they would get little respite from this cold weather until next April or so.

The snow had piled a foot thick or more on the roofs, so they were busy scraping it off. Power and telephone wires were layered in ice and many had collapsed under the weight. The electricity was still out to whole town as a result of collapsed power cables into the area. Maybe power will be restored sometime in the next day or so. Last night we had to make do with small candles for light in the dorm and toilet. No heating and no emergency generator either. At the Tashi Deleg they have a backup generator, so we should have some electricity this evening and some heating in the restaurant too.

Out for a walk along the valley was superb. The sun had come out and the roads were a combination of running water, slushy snow and mounds of snow fallen or cleared from the roofs of the buildings. The sky was crisp and the panorama magnificent.

Down from the walk we stopped at a Dhaba for some Thukpa, the staple diet of the locals. Not one of my favourites I must admit. The one we had was a bit slimy and full of gritty bits, but it warmed us up. I felt happier afterwards when we got some freshly cooked Gulab Jamun from another café. Naughty but nice!

Around 7:30pm they fired up the generator and we were able to move to the restaurant for dinner and the comfort of a gas fire and some lighting. They had a separate circuit to provide a single fluorescent light in each bedroom. Enough, but no heating, so we piled on the quilts and blankets. So much that we almost couldn't move.

Sunday 24th - At breakfast we met up with a group of Australians who were also stranded here. They were on a filming project for a series of TV programmes surfing around 28 states of India with a surfboard. An interesting concept, and full of challenges along the way.( www.surf28states.com ). They had a Yak pull them along in Manali as there is nothing to surf on. Here it was pure luck being surrounded by snow.

We got some very disturbing news this morning. Yesterday there had been six deaths on Rohtang La pass. Some ladies who were at the bus station had lost there son, and some of the others were Indian tourists from Bangalore and Calcutta. Apparently their vehicle had gone over the edge. We were stunned, considering we had come across that pass ourselves. It was understandable why it had been closed until the army gave clearance for it to re-open. The latest estimate was that it might open tomorrow. We will have to see.

The extra time here gave us the opportunity to see Keylong from almost every angle. More walks along each road radiating from the centre. Today was less snow than yesterday due to the thawing from the sun, but it was still a magnificent view. The stay at the Tashi Deleg has also been superb. They are the only restaurant worthy of note I think, and their food is excellent.

The time here has also been relaxing with an opportunity to do some reading. I just finished Dan Brown's epic novel Angel's & Daemons. Having seen the movie, the book adds some great seat gripping detail. Never used to be into novels, but he writes books you just cannot put down.

Bored now with nothing to read....what shall I do after finishing my writing? With Shiera, when she gets bored that means it's time to annoy me. Maybe it's time for retaliation!

Monday 25th October - I had a really restless night filled with many coughing spells. When we finally got up we hear that the temperature last night had been about -10degrees. At breakfast we got them to ring our driver, who luckily confirmed that we were to head off to Manali this morning after the army gave the all clear to go. We finally departed Keylong at about 9:10am. The journey was amazing. The land had been sculptured with snow and the crystal clear blue sky was beyond just being awesome. For most of the route we had to crawl along in convoy, with numerous trucks and other vehicles trying to get out whilst they could. Many accidents along the way too as the conditions were still treacherous. Thankfully we made it to Rohtang La pass by mid day and then the tricky decent to the valley bellow. This section was slower and more fraught than the ascent. The crazy thing was the impatient drivers trying to overtake on dangerous bends and some getting stuck. The lack of intelligence of some drivers is beyond logic.

We arrived back in Manali at 4:20pm, a little over 7 hours for the usual 5 hour journey. Before heading back up to old Manali we booked our bus tickets down to Shimla for day after tomorrow. Should warm up a bit down there.

Not sure whether it was something I ate, but a couple of hours later I started to feel bad. So tired, coughing fit and not able to eat much. We hadn't stopped to eat all day and I should have been hungry, but couldn't stomach a full meal, and had bad diarrhea. Had to go back to the hotel and straight to bed. Could just be a chill.

McLeod Ganj to Manali

jeffbrad — Thu, 21 Oct 2010 15:20:00 GMT

Friday 15th October - We move on to Kullu tomorrow and booked the tickets at the HPTC booking office in the main chowk. Rs260 each departing at 7am from lower Dharamshala.

The morning has been a bit hectic. We have decided to make a major change to our travel plans and head to Africa after India instead of south to the Maldives. A big change whih requires a lot of research. I have been before and loved every part of it. We are both so excited about the idea. For now we have to continue with our travels in India. So much yet to see.

One thing we have found is that much of the clothing we have bought doesn't last long before it rips, so we the clothes repaired at a tailor, who did a proper job. Jimmy's restaurant for a pasta lunch and we enjoyed it that much we returned there in the evening for another awesome meal

Saturday 16th October - Up at 5am to head for the bus. From the main Chowk the bus arrived at about 5:45am. Our bus to Kullu was to depart from the main bus stand in Dharamshala. An annoying scam happened. The conductor insisted that the bus was NOT going to Dharamshala and we must get off and get a taxi. An argument broke out as we know for a fact that the bus definitely did. ALL buses go to the dharamshala bus stand. We asked the locals and they agreed and told us to just stay on the bus and keep quiet. Sure enough the bus left at 6:15am and went to the main bus stand. That partiular conductor must have had an arrangement to get commission from the taxi driver to try and get us to go with him. We took his details and reported him later in the day.

Our bus to Kullu departed at 7:15am. The scenery along the Kullu valley is stunning. The mountains towering overhead for some of it. A 15 minute break at Palampur bus stand at 8:30am. Another in the busy junction town of Mandi plus others in between. The scenery is incredible in parts as the Beas river carves its way through the mountains. White rocks smoothed with the erosion of thousands of years of fast flowing water. At one stretch we went through a tunnel through the mountain. It seemed to go on for ages. Not sure how long it was? We emerged into a chaotic town with traffic battling to pass and horns honking as if it made a difference to the grid-lock. Picked up a couple of interesting snacks while there. A potato hotdog, and a fried spinach bhaji. Not healthy, but interesting.

We reached Kullu at about 3:30pm. It is a chaotic place. On the way in it is evident that one of the main businesses is in shawls. Reebok signs seemed prominent too, with large signs pointing to 'Reebok Industries' and Reebok shops. Not sure if it is the real Reebok?

Tomorrow is the beginning of the Hindu Dussedra festival, which is celebrated in Kullu with the largest and noisiest in the whole of India apparently. Troupes of pilgrims carrying their idols lined the way. The central Maiden area was taken over with the beginnings of a fair ground, campsite and parade area. It was full of activity when we passed, but it seemed far from ready as the festival lasts for 10 days. There isn't much accommodation here and it would be really noisy, so we made a decision to continue on to Manali and return another day to see the festival. We had to change on to another bus to Manali (Rs45) which was crowded the whole way. It supposed to have only taken 90 minutes according to the information we had. It actually took 2 1/2 hours, which made me wonder if it was a good plan to return to Kullu for the day? The journey is a facinating one. Old style wooden houses with their small doors dotted in amongst modern ones. Traditionally dressed folk going about their work. In the distance the peaks of some mountains covered in snow were visible. An exciting sight for Shiera.

I had been to Manali before and aimed up the Mall towards the old town to find a place to stay. Ended at The Manali Mahal Hotel for Rs600 in a massive room and an in-house restaurant that served us up a nice meal. It had been a very long day, and we collapsed into bed early.

Sunday 17th October - A busy day ahead as there is so much to do in Manali. About 20minutes walk from the hotel is the Dhungri temple. Otherwise called the Hadimba temple. The approach road is winding and attractive, with many nice hotels and restos climbing up to the stately Deodar forests. A barber caught my attention in a small house along the road, so I stopped for a full shave. Always a treat, and for only 60 rupees, well worth it.

The track that leaves the main road and enters the Hadimba temple grounds is fun. Yaks and their owners are groomed immaculately for photos. For 20 rupees Shiera got to sit on a Yak whilst I took her photo. They are so sweet (both of them) that you have to do it. Also walking around were ladies dressed in traditional costume with long haired Angora rabbits and also manicured mountain goats. It is a bit gimmicky, but so sweet.

The Hadimba is a lovely wood and stone 3-tiered temple, constructed in the 16th century. The outside is decorated in animal skull bones and detailed wood carvings. Many pilgrims come to pay homage to the shrine. Up a path from the temple is another interesting site at the Tree Temple. Out the other side of the Hadimba temple is the road heading to Old Manali. First though, we had a great lunch at the Spanish Casa Bella Vista café. Their own claim is the be the best pizza in India. Well what we had certainly was excellent.

A pathway lead down to the river where ladies were busy washing in the fast flowing water. Wherever you go in Manali is a treat. The most beautiful scenery. Across a footbridge and then climb into Old Manali. Amongst some modern buildings is nestled the wonderful old houses. Tiny door frames with decorated surrounds. Some traditionally dressed old folk were working about their farm. Some baby calves were feeding and children playing in haystacks. It is easy to spend hours wandering around the old houses and we found somewhere nice to stay, so will relocate tomorrow for a few days at the Drifter's Inn.

At the top of the old town is the Manu Maharishi temple. Built on the site where Manu was supposed to have meditated after he landed the boat that saved humanity following the floods. Manu is the Hindu equivalent of Noah (and his Ark). I just love the seemingly fanciful concepts that form the basis of much of Indian culture.

With much to do today we took a rickshaw down to the Mall. As luck had it we were just in time for the Dussehra procession. Three groups were carrying idols and showering themselves in coloured powder as they boogied along the road, accompanied by the crowd of hundreds trying to catch a photo. The colour and fun atmosphere was awesome. Careful to dodge the clouds of powder that erupt from nowhere.

It was still early afternoon so decided to head to Vashisht, north east of Manali town. There is a small Buddhist temple nested into the mountain which I had been to last time, so went back to see if it had changed. Still quiet and pretty. The sky this afternoon were a bit overcast, but the view was still superb.

The characters we saw at the parade this afternoon re-appeared in the evening at an event held on stage at the auditorium. The 'King and queen' characters initially had to sit in their thrones as a queue of worshippers offered them food. After a while they began to look ill, and were trying to politely refuse the food. It was fun to watch the dancing monkey character throwing coloured powder over himself and then the audience. Plenty of singing and dancing, all done in typical Hindu style.

Monday 18th October - We transferred to Old Manali today. Staying at the Drifter's Inn (500 rupees including free wi-fi). One thing that is quick to notice about old Manali is the backpacker scene. Cheap accommodation, good food at sensible prices, and all the support you need in easy reach. Compared to downtown Manali around the Mall area, prices are much cheaper. We have been looking at going to Leh after here. Down in town the cost is 1,500 rupees on average. In old Manali it is 1000 rupees. No expensive restaurants, all good value.

Right now Manali is in low season. Many businesses have closed for the winter and will re-open around April. It does mean that exploring the area is very peaceful as often we are the only ones. Restaurants are so quiet too. Which means fast service!

Tuesday 19th October - Up in the hills above where we are staying, is one of the most beautiful places on earth. The gorgeous old wood and stone Hindu houses where the cattle occupy the lower part of the building in winter to keep them warm. Walls a foot or more thick. Tiny decorated entrance doors and old folk dressed in thick colourful rug style clothes for warmth. Many paint their houses in lovely colours. Turquoise, purple, yellow etc. We were shown around one house which rented its rooms out for 200 rupees. Lovely and cozy with its own log fire heater. Nothing straight. All with that rugged crazy design but so beautiful to bring a smile to your face. On top of the hill is what I can only describe as 'Heaven on Earth'. A small shrine faces the mountains on a small plateau which screams out to be an awesome campsite for the night. It is the sort of place which lifts your spirits. No noise. No pollution. No traffic. Just nature, peace and an incredible view, and we had it all to ourselves. Shiera was in higher spirits today too, as for the first time in ages, she was able to wear a dress instead of backpacker clothing. It was such a happy experience. Everyone we met was so kind and free to talk to us. Many were also tending their harvests. Corn, apples, grains, straw for the animals. One type of grain was like a pink feathery type. Really tiny grain which they use for making soup. We had lunch in the café opposite to the Manu temple before sauntering down back to the hotel.

We met a Russian guy who has lived here long term. Many long termers look like hippies from the 70's who got lost and never found their way out. Long hair and beards, rugged skin, but with a laid back couldn't care attitude that underlies the separation from the rat-race for so long. Some look closer to the rather strange vision of a Saddhu than anyone from the western world. Awesome characters to chat with though.

It amuses me the way we change our style of dress when we come to backpacker areas and especially mountains. Anything goes. Doesn't matter what you look like. Sometimes it seems, the more bizarre the better. The range of clothes is superb, and so many nice materials to choose from. It is a shame we have to carry everything we buy!

Over the next day or so we explored some more. Old Manali is a wonderful base from which to see some nice scenery. Out the back of the village is a large area of orchards, which must be really pretty in spring when the trees erupt into blossom. Right now they are bare, having lost all of their leaves. The village folk are all busy cleaning up and harvesting corn and other grains ready for the winter. Everywhere is a working space. Roofs are used for drying corn in the daytime sunshine. Some of the seasons crops of apples are used to make a nice cider. I bought a bottle from town (Minchy's Golden Gate. Made in Shimla) and it made a pleasant drink whilst writing.

Next to the Drifter's Inn is a construction site for I guess another lodge. It is entertaining watching some people work. It looks ok when finally covered up. But during construction, it is so crude to make you wonder how long it will last.

We head off to Leh in the morning and have to get up at 4:15am. The temperature and altitude will be more of a challenge than where we are now, so we headed into town to stock up on necessities. Diamox for Acute Mountain Syndrome (AMS). Gloves, long sleeved shirts and snacks for the journey. It is predicted to take 18 hours leaving at 5:30am (1,100 rupees each). A very long and tough day sandwiched into a minivan. Deep joy!

The cider is taking effect now and I guess I will fall asleep soon, so that is about it for now.

McLeod Ganj

jeffbrad — Fri, 15 Oct 2010 09:30:00 GMT

Tuesday 12th October - McLeod Ganj is the home town of his holiness the 14th Dalai Lama and the Tibetan government in exile. China invaded Tibet in 1949. By 1959 they had illegally occupied the whole of Tibet. The Dalai lama escaped into exile into India followed by 85,000 refugees. There is still a steady stream of tibetans leaving Tibet over the mountains, so the colonies in northern india keep growing. The figure is now in excess of 111,000 refugees in various neighbouring countries. Over the period of China's occupation, they killed 1.2 million tibetans and destroyed 6000 ancient religious and cultural monuments. At the monastery there is a poignant museum to Tibet's plight. Photographs depict the struggles both during and after. It is terrible to think that Tibet will almost certainly never be restored, despite the constant attempts by the Dalai lama and his people. China will never allow any other form of rule other than its own communist regime.

The Dalai lama doesn't do many personal audiences unfortunately, other than for Tibetan refugees and anyone with a serious reason, such as Michael Palin! My family have been known to call me Jeff Palin, so I wonder if I could get an interview as his brother?

Breakfast at Green's restaurant with the lovely fresh air, the sun shining and birds singing away, is a great way to start the day.

It is quite a contrast to move from Punjab where letting your hair grow as long as possible is part of the Sikh faith, and shaving is abnormal, to the neighbouring state of Himachal Pradesh, where it is normal to have no hair, being part of the Buddhist belief. Even the female Buddhists shave their heads. One of the joys in life is to let stubble grow, just for the pleasure of visiting Akhi in his small hairdressers in McLeod Ganj for a shave. For 80 rupees, I came out transformed from Neanderthal to human, complete with massage. Shame that Shiera cannot be transformed for that price... Nobody can work miracles...heehee!

While out to find something to eat we were stopped by a guy selling tickets to a 'Lion man of Tibet' show at the Kailash restaurant (5:30pm on tuedays). Instead of carrying on with our walk we went there to see what it was about. The same guy selling the tickets was the 'Lion Man'. He was a refugee from Tibet in 1988 and told his story followed by some traditional songs and dance. It was bizarre to say the least, and some of his performance was like a man possessed and on drugs. It was supposed to be an interpretation of some mountain gorilla or lion behaviour or maybe Shiera during her cycle. Either way, it was freaky!

Wednesday 13th Oct - It is nice when you have time to just take it easy, and move only if you want to. The sun shines early and the view down the valley from our window is awesome. After a lazy start we headed of to Bhangsa village along the wonderfully scenic Bhangsa road. Eagles soar overhead, and mountain goats roam around as well as some cheeky baboons. A trio of strangely dressed guys passed us, with their hair tied into a an upward fountain shape and clusters of drop earrings. A family sat by the road playing traditional instrument which resounded around the hills in an eerie way. An easy walk albeit hilly. Lunch break was at the lovely Monastery café, perched up a slope with a nice view. All healthy and simple food. We even played chess over lunch. Shiera beat me…I had to let her win so she felt good… well that’s my excuse!

I remembered from my last visit that it is a must to visit the Tsuglagkhang monastery complex at around 2pm onwards for a great piece of Tibetan theatre. The Buddhist monks have an open air debate session where each point is sealed with a resounding slap of their hands and a stamp of the feet. With many debates going on simultaneously, and even some foreigners who have converted to Buddhism taking part with enthusiasm, it makes for a great entertaining hour, which finishes about 3:30pm.

Another treat...a continuous stream of treats lately!... Coffee at the 'Coffee top' on temple road, with the excellent 'Arty' finishing each coffee off with a personalized design in the froth on top. He showed us some of his artwork on his laptop. It is amazing how creative you can be with a cocktail stick and some froth! Coupled with some of the best cakes in town, it takes some beating.

Dinner at Carpe Diem...I think one of the best restaurants around. Awesome Mexican food finished off with the interesting 'God save the queen' dessert, and great friendly staff. They even sell their own healthy muesli mix for takeaway (Rs400/kg). We eat there again the next night and had Thai this time. We have been spoilt for food recently and hope this continues as we move further into the mountains tomorrow.

Friday 15^th October - Next destination is Manali. But we hope to make a stop in Kullu on the way as the Dussedra festival happens on the 17^th October, and it should be a great place to celebrate it. We have been sorting out our luggage and stocking up on some warm clothes. The choice here in McLeod Ganj is nice, and the prices reasonable. We have gathered lots of souvenirs which are taking up too much space. The problem is the cost of shipping. From India, the only choice is Air. Nobody seems to offer sea, which would be much cheaper. Will keep looking.

That’s it for now…

Bikaner to Dharamshala (McLeod Ganj)

jeffbrad — Tue, 12 Oct 2010 13:00:00 GMT

Friday 8th October - After the hectic time recently, and my body telling me to take a break, we did just that today. Our train to Amitsar doesn't leave until 2:15am tomorrow morning. Check-out time was noon, so we took advantage of a late breakfast and a dip in the pool before packing up and storing our luggage in their courtesy store room. A few hours time on the internet killed some time. Found out some interesting stuff...

When we were on the camel safari in Jaisalmer, we passed hundreds of wind turbines. They were installed by the Rajasthan Mines & Minerals Company, which is quite a large organisation. The 106.3 Megawatt wind power project helps support their mining operations in the Rajasthan state and is a public company set up as a government initiative.

Diwali is coming up on November 5th, so we need to plan to be somewhere nice for that. Last time I came to India I was in Shimla. This time we are likely to be in the north too. Where is the best place to be? Not sure yet, so will have to ask around.

I have been reading a rather thought provoking book by Sylvia Browne entitled 'Secrets & Mysteries of the world'. I have always been interested in science, the evolution of mankind, nature, astronomy, and anythink unusual. The book brings together Sylvia's opinions through much research on subjects ranging from the Pyramids in Egypt, to Atlantis, Stonehenge to Shangri-la, to the crystal skulls and the Bermuda triangle. Lots of subjects covered, and lots of opinions, some based on established facts. I did some research on a few websites and need to do some more. Very interesting subject...do you believe in Aliens. Am I married to one?...I am beginning to think so! Did the Egyptians really build the pyramids as egyptologists suggest, or did they get help from outer space? Was Atlantis a communication point from an Alien race on a distant planet to our own? Is their an alien civilisation still living under the sea in the Bermuda triangle? Is Shangri-la really hidden in the Himalayas in a way that cannot be found, so that it protects the alien race who built it there? Is the earth a dieing planet whose past races were so much more intelligent than us that they managed to wipe themselves out with one of their electromagnetic experiments that went wrong? Is the moon made of cheese? Sorry, that one is a bit too far fetched..!All of this and more is enough to keep an inquisitive mind like mine awake and occupied for hours during idle times on the road.

Dinner at the hotel before leaving. We headed for Bikaner Junction station early instead of going to Lal Garh station which is totally dead. The same train stops at Bikaner Junction about 15 minutes earlier, but at least there is food available. I went for a brief walk outside the station seeing as we had so much time to wait. Within about 5 minutes I had been approached by two total nutters, one offering me Marijuana, and the other jibbering some strange chant at me as loud as he could, so that everyone could hear him. Freaked me out a bit and decided to turn around and head back to the station instead. You certainly meet some strange people in India.

We attracted another nutter on the platform. A guy sniffing glue from a bag came and squatted next to us, waving his hand with some drugged up look on his face. Had to have him moved.

In front of us was a large sign prominently located by the track...it read 'Railway vs. Dirt. The fight is on! Whose side are you on?' Right underneath and along the track, a bunch of cleaners were busy sweeping the platform...sweeping the rubbish straight onto the railway track! There are bins, but they swept around the bins too, and not one bit of it went in the bin. What a disgrace. Why put the sign in English? Hardly anyone here speaks English. Are they trying to impress us, as if they really intend to enforce this campaign? The reality is they couldn't be bothered.

In front of us, a bare bottomed baby pood on the platform and a fair bit of it went on its mother's sari. Its mother wiped it off with her bare hands and then promptly used the same hands to clean the teat on the baby's bottle before shoving it in its mouth. It made us cringe. Coupled with the overpowering smell of urine and the steady flow of rats running around, Bikaner station is a bit of a cesspit. To be fair (well a little bit fair)... a guy shortly after came around with a cart emptying the rubbish bins. I bet they take it out of sight and dump it next to the track. Sorry it all sounds a bit negative, but the most positive thing I can think of is that we will be on a train out of here soon. It has bean a long day!

Train 9223 arrived exactly on time and we were on it and in bed within 10 minutes, when the train gently pulled out. Managed to get some sleep and awoke to the ever familiar call of the Chai seller at about 8am when the train arrived at Bathinda. Another couple of hours further to Firozpur cantt. The morning scenery was pleasant and there were even birds singing in the trees. This journey has passed from the Hindu dominated Rajasthan into the Sikh dominated Punjab. Most of the passengers in our carriage were Punjabi, with their tightly wrapped colourful turban's of every colour. Pink, orange, turquoise, blue, white.... Very different style to the Hindu. Also, many spoke English and were tidily dressed. A sign of being in a different, more affluent state. Another common sight now is the chin strap. The elderly guys have wonderfully majestic flowing beards, and dress their beards in all sorts of nets and straps, often looking a bit strange.

Much of the land we passed is agricultural, with cotton being a new crop we haven't seen on our travels yet. Rice and other grain crops are also in abundance, as were fields of cotton. I spotted an awesome bird with colourful blue wings. After the dusty desert it is a welcome sight.

We arrived at Firozpur cantt at 10:15am. Over the footbridge and a nice sight...They have both rickshaw and cycle rickshaws too. It is a shame that we had too much luggage to fit, so we took an auto rickshaw instead. The bus station is only about 1.5km away and he charged Rs50, something that caused a n argument with one of the drivers. The usual 'this is a special' came out. What a load of rubbish. It must be a standard for them. There was a tarrif chart in his window showing a maximum fare of Rs10. An argument broke out and we ended up having to pay the 50. Not a good start considering we had arrived in a good mood.

The non-aircon bus to Amritsar left within a couple of minutes of us getting there. Rs65 each for the 108km journey. There were aircon buses but they would leave later. Unfortunately, no time for any breakfast. Luckily, at the first stop snack sellers boarded. Noodles on a bap for Rs10, and two lots of deep fried bread for Rs10.

Arrived at Amritsar about 2pm. Supposed to be a free shuttle bus to the temple which was nowhere to be found. Rickshaw drivers try to scam by sayin that it is 4km to the temple and want to charge 100 rupees. It isn't. We took a cycle rickshaw for 40 rupees complete with luggage. Should have only cost 20, but he had to work hard with all of our luggage on board and the poor road surfaces, so gave him the extra.

I had been to the temple before and aimed straight for the accommodation block. I was lucky to get two dorm beds in the Sri Guru Ramdas Niwas lodging section. It is all free, but a donation should be given on leaving, after a maximum of 3 nights stay. All food, albeit simple, is included in the dining hall.

The Golden Temple is one of life's most amazing experiences. Today was a special celebration day, and so even more pilgrims than normal were here. The colour and the different sects of the Sikh faith that were around was incredible. This is the holiest temple in the Sikh faith and everyone would like to come here at least once, although it isn't like Haj, they don't have to. The centrepiece of the Sarovar lake is the gold temple. Plated with 750kg of gold, that shines in the sunshine like no other place i've seen. Sikhs come to bathe in the holy water. Live sitar, harmonium and tabla music accompanied by vocals is piped incessantly around the temple, giving it an awesome atmosphere. It originates from inside the golden temple building and raises the hair on your neck.

Dinner is another of those experiences that will leave an imprint on your mind forever. A communal hall where thousands of pilgrims sit cross-legged in rows, being served food into your serving plate. Dal, prassad spiced rice, chickpea curry, rice pudding and chapatis are just some of the offering. Copious amounts of fresh water too. Refill as much as you need, and all for nothing, unless you leave a donation in the boxes by the entrance.

We were lucky to be here for the 476th birthday celebrations of Sri Guru Ramdas, which happens today. Didn't know about this, so it was a real piece of good luck. This explained the extrodinary number of devlotees here. At 7:40pm the elebrations culminated in a superb firework display over the temple. The whole complex had been illuminated with lights and colours. It was almost like being is Disneyland. A fantastic atmosphere and shared by hundreds of thousands of pilgrms. At times there were so many people trying to move around that it got quite choking, but everyone took it in good spirit. Following the fireworks, the whole congregation decended on the dining hall. It was too much for Shiera and she had to return to the dorm. I stuck it out and it was like a mass crowd surge at a sports stadium. The din made by thousands of people clamouring for their food plate and bowl and then squashing into the building. Some got forced down during the scrum and I am sure many got injured. The double layer food hall was crammed with row upon row of diners. The food servers were almost racing around to keep pace. The next group pushing at the doors impatient to get in.

The amazing sight of the kitchen and washing areas is awesome. The volume of food produced in a day leaves you spellbound with how swish they have made the process. Volunteer pilgrims also help with the washing up afterwards. Hundreds of people grabbing plates, cleaning off leftover food and washing up, is a sound you cannot describe. Suffice it to say that it is loud! Surprisingly, foreigners are in tiny numbers, and so we attract a lot of attention. Lots of hand shaking and answering for the hundredth or so time, 'which country are you from', 'what is you name' etc. But it is a pleasant and bouyant atmosphere.

Sunday 10th October - The one thing about the dormitory in Ramdas Niwas, is noise. With people coming and going with no concern towards others, it is almost impossible to get a good night's sleep. There are communal washing areas and it proffers the question about how much water flows through this place on a day like yesterday. A free flowing supply of drinking water to everyone as well as the washing water.

Out to find breakfast. Don't ask for eggs as the whole surrounding area to the temple is stricktly pure vegetarian, so no eggs available. Neelam's nearby restaurant served up a nice breakfast.

Much stress and strain recently. It is hard to believe how stressful enjoying yourself can be. Tension and problems caused by successive days with poor sleep.

At 3:30pm we headed to the Attari-Wagah India & Pakistan border gate to watch the infamous closing ceremony, which commences at 5:30pm. There are touts outside the Golden temple entrance offering a shared taxi for 100 rupees each with 8 passengers. It takes a bout an hour to get to the border and by that time, hoards were already there and the chanting was clear as we approached. An annoying scam on the way between being dropped off and the security check...plenty of vendors offer drinks and snacks. No liquid allowed after the security check, so the two 1 litre bottles of water we just bought had to be thrown away. They know this of course, and make a load of money out of it, knowing that most people will have to throw them away maybe 50 metres down the road. Also, no baggage allowed, so they have to be left back in the van. You can take cameras and you need a passport to get into the 'VIP' area where all foreigners are sent to, so you must not foget it.

The event is pure theatre. Initially, music was played and the girls all got up to dance. The whole show is orchestrated and compered as each side goose-steps and high-kicks to the border in turn while taunting each other.Throughout the event, the crowd are urged to chant 'Hindustan Zindabad'...which means Long live India. The finale is coordinated around the final shaking of hands and saluting of the two nation's, followed by the lowering of the flags and the final closing of the gate at about 6pm. A wonderful sign of harmony considering the two country's battles with each other.

We had a bit of a problem getting back. Our van wouldn't start. He tried to get us into some dirty old wreck but we refused. He decided to have his van towed by another. Problem was that the tow rope kept breaking, so it was a long and slow journey back. We had to bail out on the approach to Amritsar as there was no way it would work with the busy traffic. We broke down again on a crazy roundabout with three lanes of lunatic traffic. Someone else gave us a lift most of the way back. Another eventful evening!

Back at the temple and it seemed worth an attempt to get into the main temple before we depart tomorrow. The queue wasn't that bad and we made it. To think that there is 750kg of gold in the temple is amazing. It is beautiful up close. The chandeliers inside also contain gold. At 10pm, the holy book...the original and oldest one, is moved to its sleeping place for the night. A ceremony is held culminating in the book being carried out in a golden palanquin, and the doors to the temple closed, with the throngs of worshippers clamouring to tour it. It will be brought back at 3am, Believed to be the purest hour of the day.

I was lucky to meet two great gentlemen in the temple who were happy to answer any questions about the sikh faith. One of them was on holiday from London, so spoke perfect English. Apparently, there were 400,000 pilgrims here yesterday for the birthday celebrations. A normal day sees upto 80,000. How lucky was that, that we happened to be here on the right day!

I wish that this event hadn't been marred by the terrific strain of tiredness having its effect. It should have been the most enjoyable of occasions. But it turned out to be a strain to get through it. I hope things improve or we will abandon India much earlier than planned. It is no point carrying on with things the way they are right now.

At 2:30am we had a fracas in the dorm. A group of inconsiderate australian students rolled in and didn't seem bothered about the noise they were making. What was most anoying was the lecture this stupid kid tried to give us on how they come here to meet people and not sleep and how we should never stay in a dorm! I felt like punching the idiot's lights out. Some mindless yobs have zero brain and are so inconsiderate that they think their smart arsed attitude is justifiable. The fact that so many other people were complaining about the noise of other's testifies to the fact that not eveyone agreed.

Anyway, we packed up and left the temple at about 3am and headed for the bus station. It was in darkness. It was 3:30am. It didn't open until 4am.

Our bus to Pathankot left at 4:30am. 62Rs. First time I have ever been in a bus station when it was closed. No lights on and bodies sleeping all over the place on any available seat or platform.

The bus was terrible and had no space for luggage. A bumpy and hole filled road. We are so tired recently and the effects are taking their toll. We need to be somewhere peaceful and away from traffic to recover. Fortunatlely, I had planned to go to McLeod Ganj in Himal-Pradesh state next. I have been before, and an ideal place to relax.

Shoe-horned into our seets at the back of the bus, and with a freezing cold early morning draught straight into my face, it was not a good journey. The road is regularly broken up to make it a spine jarring journey. Any attempt to doze off was abruptly interrupted by a rapid drop into a big hole in the road. By the time we arrived in Pathankot it was daylight.

Easy enough to find the stand for our onward journey to Dharamshala and enough time to get some snacks and even stock up with cash at the Bank of India ATM there. Our bus, another rickety looking thing arrived shortly before 8:15am. The usual discussion about our luggage. We have a lot , and it takes up the space of a couple of passengers. They wanted it to go on the roof, but you have tlo do it yourself, and I didn't feel like falling off the bus. We managed to sort it out, but had no space around ourselves for the journey. I had planned to use the toy train from Pathankot to Kangra, but it did mean another 4 stages of transport. With low energy we weren't upto it. Shame really. I have done it before, and it take over 5 hours to do what the bus does in 3 1/3 hours, but it is pretty.

The scenery as we passed through the Kangra valley is beautiful. This is heading into mountain territory, and climbs steadily the closer we got to Dharamshala. Luckily the same bus waited at the main bus stand and then continued upto Mcleod Ganj.. Also known as upper Dharamshala, about 10 minutes later, for another 10 rupees.

Since my last visit they had built a bus stand slightly downhill from the main chowk. A good idea to reduce the traffic. The favourite option was to be Greens hotel. Clean, and with a nice view of the valley, plus wi-fi available from its built in café. It is a very busy place, but we managed to get a room for 800 rupees a night.

We are now in an area with a high influence of Tibet, due totally to this being the residence of his Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama. One of the world's greatest people, and someone I have great respect for. His home, the Photang is attached to the Tsuglagkhang monastery complex. A short walk south from the main town.

The shower was welcome and felt slightly human again. The restaurant served us up a great Tibetan meal...momos and thukpa. Filling and tasty.

Replenished, we ambled around town for a while. The weather was beautiful and the town is easy to navigate. Everyone has that Buddhist kharma about them here. Peaceful and no hassle from touts or the shop or stall keepers. I enjoyed this place on my last visit, and it is lovely to be sharing this with Shiera. We both needed a place to relax, and this is ideal.

We took a walk to the temple complex. There was some work going on and the Dalai Lama was away on business, a little disappointing. He was away last time too in Tokyo. This time in the US. As one of the world's most travelled people, I am not sure how often he returns home?

A nice break for coffee and cake at the Namgyal café within the complex before heading back to the hotel for an early night, and catch up on sleep.

Jodhpur to Bikaner

jeffbrad — Thu, 7 Oct 2010 20:40:00 GMT

Friday 1st October - Today we had booked a village safari to visit the Bishnoi villages. Early star to make the most of the cooler morning, and collected from the Haveli by Jeep. 500 rupees each plus 50 each for lunch.
The whole tour took about 5 hours and went around many small villages. The Bishnoi people have many castes, distinguishable from each other either by turban colour and jewellery or the men, or the style of dress and jewellery of the women. Many of the sights have become typical now...lady shepherdesses marching their flocks of goats, cows or sheep through the scrub. Ornate carts being lead by camel. Children playing in the dusty streets. The weather is so dry now that everything disappears into a cloud of dust when anything moves past. The roads are rough and our jeep continually crunched into holes and along gullies. Our hosts Pukhraj and his father Chotaram Prajapat were Bishnoi and ran a weaving business (Pukhraj Durry Udhyog) near to Gosali and spoke reasonable English, as they ran these tours almost every day. As with most things here, It comes down to trying to sell something, but that is expected as it is about survival. We stopped at a potter where I had a go on a traditional potter’s wheel. Just a large stone set spinning with a stick until it reached molding velocity. I made a dish which wasn't that bad although I think he was being generous with his praise.
Another stop to see an opium ceremony. A small block of raw opium which has to be imported from a neighbouring state is liquefied in fresh mineral water to make a drink. They don't smoke it here, only drink. Apparently, the old guys claim it to be good for their joints. I reckon that they are trying to find an excuse!
A large area of scrubland was dotted with watering holes which attracted much wildlife. We saw a couple of species of Deer in a large herd. One was like a Springbok with twisted antlers and bounced along. The other a more gentle fawn colour with white markings.
Lunch was interesting. One of the daughters and Pukhraj's wife were in the traditional cookhouse preparing when we arrived. Hand made Chapatis made from Millet flour. Flavoured potatoes with sesame seed. Chili sauce, and some spiced beans collected from the common scrub bushes. Sugar candy for desert.
I really liked their Chapatis. Different to the conventional ones served in restaurants due to the use of millet flour instead of a more conventional gram flour. A more wholesome flavour. Whilst we were in the jeep we seemed to pass endless crops of Millet and sesame plants which are used for both the seeds and for crushing to make cooking oil. Not much rice here as the climate isn't suitable.
The family business is weaving, and they showed us their technique on a traditional loom. Many options including Jute and wool plus others like camel that we didn't see.
Arrived back in Jodhpur around 1pm and the Sadar market was in full flow. Some sari material sellers caught our attention and we managed to by some for 100 rupees each. Amazing when you think of the manufacturing and still making profit along the way. We had also managed to pick up some Peacock feathers during the day for 1 rupee each. Much cheaper than in the cities. The children collect them in the villages to make some money.

We move on to Jaisalmer tomorrow, and will stay at the Raika Palace Hotel which is run by the same owner as the one we have been staying at here. Today is its launch day, so we hope it should be nice and clean and organized.

Saturday 2nd October - The bus to Jaisalmer departs at 11am from the Bombay Motors Circle. A small rough and dirty compound. We were glad that we had pre-booked the tickets as I wouldn't want to be stuck there for long. Many locals arrive late and ended up standing or sitting in the aisle. Not comfortable for a long journey. The bus was a typical sleeper style with upper level beds and lower seats. A hot and dry beginning until we got out of Jodhpur and on to the open road heading west, which was fairly smooth for most of the time. Relatively flat and featureless with a sprinkling of millet crops and occasional groups of camels. The air was warm, the breeze through the window was gentle and pleasant.
As the journey progressed through the town of Pokaran with its fort visible from the road, the air began to get hotter. The desert more barren and the group of camels more frequent. This part of the Thar desert is more like scrub land, although we did pass some sand dunes on the way.
Patience gets tested on this kind of journey, when the heat can be a little wearing. One annoying guy was persistent in trying to have me exchange my guitar for his necklace...get real man...we had to have him moved. Some kids kept spitting out of the window, blowing back into others faces. We had to get so annoyed with them as their mother had no control over them.
At one stop a flock of sellers were trying to trade my sunglasses for food. Some wanting to shake hands, and others getting very physical in their approaches. Almost disrespectful. Bus travel is always an experience, and you have to take it lightly.
Thoughts of Lawrence of Arabia and which coloured turban to wear come to mind. Shiera recently watched the Sex in the City movie, with Carrie Bradshaw dressed for the desert. I think she wants to emulate her role in the Shiera Bradshaw reprise.
Do they have steps to get on to the camel? Where's the nearest mall? You can take the girl out of the country...but you cannot take the country out of the girl!
We arrived in Jaisalmer at about 5pm. Luckily the hotel had arranged a pick-up and I heard my name from a guy as we pulled into the bus stop. Within 5 minutes we were at the Hotel Raika Palace.
The new owners had taken it over and as mentioned. Yesterday was their first day of opening. I reckon we are their first guests. A choice of rooms all with aircon, TV and hot shower, but no internet yet. We chose a room with a view of the amazing golden coloured Jaisalmer fort, one of the main reasons for coming here. Udaipur is known as the white city, Jodhpur as the blue city, Jaisalmer as the yellow or golden city, and Jaipur as the pink city. All very obvious as you arrive. Jaisalmer blends into the desert surrounds well.

The hotel's chef seemed to have disappeared. Considering it's status as 'just opened', it didn't seem like a good start. We had to head into town to find somewhere to eat. Settled on the Mid-Town restaurant, boasting a great fort view. Another interesting sight, was the 'Bhang shop'. Bhang is the marijuana drug made into a drink. Illegal in most countries, but made Semi-legal here in 'Government Authorised' shops. Apparently it is available in different strengths, and they have to bie controlled in not taking advantage of foreigners. You read stories about tourists being over-drugged and passing out, or having bad hallucinations and subsequent accidents when they lose control. Important when you consider the near death experiences when you are sober! Cows, motorbikes, Rickshaws and cars battle for the tiniest of spaces and you have to dodge the cow dung that litters everywhere. If you are stoned out of your brain, who knows what could happen. It is advised that you eat before trying Bhang and it takes about half an hour to take effect, and you want to fall asleep afterwards.

Sunday 3rd Oct - Reasonable night sleep apart from the ridiculous amount of bugs around. Any light attracts hoards of mini crickets and beetles.
It was roasting when we got out. Must have been in the 40's. The publicity photos for the Raika hotel are a lie. The roof design isn't what they show, and they do not have a restaurant yet. The statement that the chef had to go and tend to his wife, is more like there isn't a kitchen to cook in, and nowhere for customers to even sit out. The roof top is still a building site. We checked some places inside the fort last night, and for 500 rupees or a little over, we could get a reasonable room with a view and some atmosphere. The hotel also wanted to charge 1,500 rupees per person per day for a camel safari. Elsewhere in town they charge 700 for the same thing. The only difference is group size. Some have upto 12 per group, others only 4 or 5. Apart from that, they are probably very similar, and provide the same level of food and drink, and sightseeing. The ones to Sam's dunes all sleep out on mats under the stars, so there is zero accommodation costs. It pays to look around and be careful of what you get for your money.

Jaisalmer Fort is a warren of narrow alleys, a fair proportion of which have been taken over by guest houses, shops and restaurants. The golden yellow stone is intricately carved in many of the Havelis and many have nice views of the city below. The only entry fees are into some of the Havelis and the fort museum.
Outside of the fort we passed through the Ghandi Chowk area, which seems to have a market feel to it. Plenty of vendors of traditional items, including pre-formed Turbans for the lazy tourist who wants to give it a try. I always feel when I try a turban that it looks like something had landed on my head, and doesn't look right. I think the paler skin doesn't fit in with it, or maybe I am so used to seeing it worn by dark skinned natives that I don't think I do it justice?
It is always amusing to look at what we wear when we travel. Most end up in Alibaba pants, or some form of local design of clothing that you never see a local wearing. It is different for women as the Punjabi suit or Sari looks good even on a western woman. I was tempted recently to repeat a past mistake of buying some Alibaba shoes. The ones with the pointed and turned up toes. They look ok on a local. I ended up with really sore feet. I guess cos the leather hadn't softened off enough. I had to take them off before they got soft enough or I wouldn't be able to walk. The blisters were too painful.

Monday 4th October - Early start at 6:30am today as we were to head off on a 'Non-touristic' safari into the Thar desert on a mixture of Jeep and Camel. We probably paid a little more than some other options at 800 rupees per person per day. Some others were down to 650, and they all sound about the same for content and what is included. We have become so sceptical about everyone in Rajasthan. The tendency to lie is very high, and you have no idea who to trust. We shall see as the safari progresses.

Riding a camel for long periods is a test of endurance. You find parts of your anatomy going to sleep. Testicles get relocated and reshaped. Hope to find the again tomorrow. During the day we stopped at some local villages, one of which we privileges to meet 'The King'. The title of the village elder. The village as such only seemed to be one compound, so it seems that just anyone could become king of their own home if they wanted to. Other stops to water the camels or stop for lunch under the shade of a tree in an oasis. At that point the saddles are removed from the camels as they sweat with the saddle and rider on. Simple food of chapati and curried vegetables plus fruit for dessert. Chai in good supply and plenty of mineral water, albeit warmed by the heat.
We noticed that the cook was lying under a blanket and shivering badly, so we took a look. He had no fever, but stomach pains and shakes. Not the first time apparently. We had some Ibuprofen to try him on, and the guide later brought him some Chloroquine. Generally used for Malaria in northern India. We had to insist that he went no further with the group. Whether he had anything contagious or not, it was important that he was taken for proper medical help, so they arranged for him to be picked up. The guide and his young brother then took on the role of cooks for the rest of the trip. Not a great start when the cook is ill and has already been in contact with us and the food we have eaten.
The Thar desert has two main features, endless scrub land and a sea of wind turbines. Not sure how many there are, and will research it ore later, but there must be hundreds. The sign on them says that they are owned by the 'Rajasthan Mines & Minerals company'. A strange connection that sounds privatized rather than government owned.
The main destination of the day was the 'Sam's dunes, where we set up camp for the night. We arrived just after 6pm. The final stretch was bum numbing, and some of the group couldn't ride anymore and had to walk.
We had a nice golden sunset and the sky then descended into darkness. Stars coming out in steady numbers as the darkness got deeper and our eyes acclimatized. The temperature fell, but not too cold. They had provided thick mats and blankets if required. One of the guys had brought a guitar, so we shared and did some songs. Another one of those experiences to play in an awesome location. They had also brought some 'Bhang Cookies'. Supposedly narcotic, but to be honest, no reaction whatsoever. We did have kingfisher beer though. It was amusing that although the guide had brought beer which had got warm during the day, a guy appeared late evening with a cooler box and offering cold been at 150 rupees each. What a great businessman he is.
Initially there was a faint cover of mist making the stars a little weak, but as the temperature fell, the sky got really clear and, what a treat. I love the desert, having experienced the night sky before. Jet black and covered in an amazing carpet of stars, and very defined constellations. Taking a few long exposure photographs shows some of them in different colours....blue, red, purple, as well as white and yellow. We were also lucky to see many shooting stars and satellites. Normally only possible with really clear skies.

Tuesday 5th October - woke around 6am to a pristine blue sky and the sun rising in the east. We were on top of the dune and could see both directions. A beautiful start to the day as we went to take some dune photos. A few dung beetles around...rolling along their stash of camel dung pellets to their nests. Sidewinder snakes had left their tracks, but were not visible. We saw an amazing grasshopper. Dazzling rainbow colours, head yellow and blue, and about 4 inches long.
Breakfast was boiled eggs and toast with some jam and papaya and bananas, washed down with chai. All simple, but there is a limit to what can be carried and prepared.
Time to get back on the camels. Some got a little fractious at the beginning as I think they dislike having riders. One guy almost got thrown off, and Shiera's camel was always misbehaving. After a while some got off and walked as it was getting uncomfortable. I joined them after a while. We all had pains in our legs with riding long distances and walking was easy and more comfortable.
Another stop to water the camels and then a little further on before we stopped for lunch. By this stage, the thought of getting back on a camel was starting to terrify most, and we were all thinking of finishing early. The original plan was to go through until 6pm, but another 6 hours on a camel was going to be tough. I am sure they are used to this with almost every group that comes through, and so they can make arrangements for the jeep to collect at almost any point.
Lunch was some fried pasta shapes and chai followed by Chapatis again. They learn from an early age how to mix the flour for Chapatis and to grill them.
After lunch we headed back to a meeting point where a jeep was waiting for us. The safari finished around 5pm. Tired and sore legs through the riding and tired due to the short sleep last night. It was a great safari though and plenty of nice experiences.

A welcome nice meal and a cold beer at the Om restaurant facing the fort, good food and a great view. We are moving on to Bikaner tomorrow on our way to Amritsar in the north. My body is telling me to rest a while, but need to get somewhere functional and cooler, so will try to get somewhere nice up north for a while. Shiera’s body is telling here she’s got arms and legs and everything aches. The signs are there so we both need a break soon.

Wednesday 6th October - Woke up this morning totally blocked up ears and nose, and with a throat sounding like a buffalo. Either it was coming on before we went on the safari, or the dry desert air coupled with a cold night and condensation caused it. The cool aircon in the room probably didn't it me any good either.
We planned to move on to Bikaner today. No good western breakfast options local to our hotel, so had to grab the best we could get locally and then head for the railway station. No English anywhere, and the ticket office gave me a general class ticket (Rs76 each), which I didn't realize at the time. The train was waiting on platform 2. A choice of sleeper and general coaches. We aimed for the Sleeper coach as it was more comfortable. The ticket inspector came along and said we had to change carriage. I paid the extra to stay in the sleeper, working out Rs161 each. You cannot argue with the prices anyway, as they are so good.

The 4703 Jaisalmer Lalgarh Express supposedly departing 10:40am, left at 11:08, which is nearer to the published time of 11:20 than the time they state it leaves. Once out of the station and heading north, the landscape opened out to flat barren scrub as far as the horizon. Hot and dry and not much life out there. It didn't change much for the whole journey. We wiped our seats down and within an hour a layer of sand had built up again. We arrived at Lal Garh station at 16:15 as planned, which is about 3km on the northern side of Bikaner.
We had chosen the Hotel Padmini Niwas from the book as it seemed one of few options which had a swimming pool. Something we much needed after a long time in hotel and dry weather. My sinuses were blocked up and seemed like the onset of a bad cold. I think it was more like the incessant hot, dry and dusty atmosphere.
The pool was a welcome relief to just soak for a while. They had only refilled it yesterday, so it was nice and clean.
The dinner was nice. The first time we had meat in ages. No matter how nice the vegetarian food has been, there are times when we get desperate for meat. Topped with a nice cold beer. Just what we needed after a long day.
I wanted to have a quick look around the immediate area after dinner. Some enormous houses close to the hotel. Seemed to be an affluent part of town. Some new ones being built too, with superb styling. We also struck lucky as I heard some music in the distant so went to investigate. Turned out to be a wedding procession on their way from the wedding venue to the celebration venue. We were dragged in to follow them and invited in to eat with them. The groom was on a horse, but the bride went separately and we didn't see her. Around 2000 guests were due to be there according to one guy. The food was superb, with every special dish that I had seen in the recipe books. Some of our favourites including some I had never tried. Even the samosas they made were special ones with pomegranate and fruit. Too many people and it got a bit overpowering at times, as it seemed the whole crowd wanted to talk to us, shake hands or ask questions. A video crew filmed us for a bit. I guess it isn't every day they have two foreigners arrive at a Hindu wedding. Everyone was so lovely towards us. The most interesting part was that the men and women were separated into different areas. I was not allowed to cross into the women's area although they were happy for me to stand by the dividing area. They were so beautiful, all in their best wedding saris. Still no sign of the bride. We were told that she wouldn't appear until late, and the celebrations would go for another 3 hours. We were too tired to stay that long, so made our escape. A really nice and lucky event for us to stumble upon.

Thursday 7th October - The room rate at Padmini Niwas includes a simple breakfast of toast/jam and tea or coffee. It made a change to be able to have a swim after breakfast, especially with the weather being so hot and dry now.
First task of the day was to head to the railway booking office to book our tickets out of Bikaner. They have two stations and you have to go to the correct one to book tickets. Next stop will be Amritsar. We cannot go direct, but have to get to Firozpur first, so we had to go to Lal Garh station. Managed to get two sleeper berths for day after tomorrow from Lal Garh station. That done, the only attraction we wanted to see here was the 16th century Junagarh Fort. There are some options for the tickets. 250Rs includes an audio guide and camera fee. Bearing in mind that two tickets would cost 500Rs anyway, the cheaper option was to pay the 150Rs ticket plus one camera fee of 30Rs. So 330Rs instead of 500Rs. The walking tour was in English and detailed enough for our needs. In fact the guide kept stopping to tell us the English detail personally. Bikaner fort is a really wonderful example of Rajasthan architecture. Beautifully decorated inside with numerous room elaborately painted. The Haveli style latticework on the outside is nice. They are renovating some sections at present, and the fresh paintwork brings the building back to its former pristine glory. The museum section is interesting, with a couple of airplanes and the usual swords and other displays of barbarism. I have said this so any times before. If mankind diverted all that energy spent designing weapons to kill one another into something more constructive, what a better world this might have become. Admittedly, a fort without weapons of defense wouldn't be the same would it! I thought the old photographs were superb. An era when the ostentation of the processions and the rulers costumes had no limits. Even the elephant's decorations were amazing. There is a nice café inside the fort grounds which served up a great lunch for a very reasonable price.
My cold wasn't clearing and decided to find a pharmacy and stock up on medicines then retire back to the hotel to rest for the next day or so before we move on. There is more to see in Bikaner, but didn't think it worth pushing it too much.

Udaipur to Jodhpur

jeffbrad — Thu, 30 Sep 2010 01:00:00 GMT

Tuesday 28th September - I have to say that Udaipur is one of the most romantic and wonderful places you are likely to visit in India. Easy to fall in love with, and hard to leave. We have been lucky to be in Udaipur when the water level is high, and the colours dramatic and vibrant. One of our favourite spots by the lake is a wonderful place to watch life in all its glory. Beautifully dressed ladies performing their daily rouine of washing their clothes on the ghats. A rainbow in action. Boys taking advantage of the high water and swimming for hours. Diving off one of the bridges or the ghat railings. A lady crosses the bridge carrying a bale of grass on her head. Red and gold sari billowing in the gentle breeze. A small herd of donkeys cross. The white city with an occasional sprinkling of delicate colours. It has been a great place to begin our tour of Rajasthan. Even the staff at the Mewar Haveli have been so gracious towards us.... handle the owner with care though!. Full marks to them.

No matter how much you like a place though, there is a time to move on. We have been here for a week, and today move on the Jodhpur... Affectionately called the Blue city, due to its old buildings in the walled city area. There is no direct train to Jodhpur from here, so we are taking a state bus leaving at 1:30pm.

We actually left at 1pm, so it was good that we got to the pick-up point early. Once out of the honking congestion of outer Udaipur, we hit the open road and for almost 2 hours we passed through marble territory. Every colour and shade seemed to be available. This section was very dry and dusty but interesting. It isn't obvious from the road where the marble is actually mined, but it must be nearby. Convoys of trucks streamed through the area carrying enormous blocks on their way to the slicing mills, or to the vendors. Some turn the blocks into carvings and some of them were located along the road.

Donkeys are used for light loads. Camels and Oxen are used to haul ornate carts full of heavier loads of marble blocks.

Many interesting sights as we passed through small villages. Old guys smoking pipes, which I guess are drugs. Lady shepherdesses marshalling their cows or goats through the streets.

We went through one area that seemed more tribal than some others. The ladies were definitely different and had bone bangles up their arms and legs. Their saris were a little different too. For most of the second half of the journey the road was flat and fairly featureless, but dry and dusty.

We had been told that the journey should take around 5 1/2 hours, so expected to arrive around 6:30pm. We actually got there at 9:30pm. Somebody was lying. I suspect that we weren't put on the right bus. Even the guide book agreed with the earlier time. Anyway, from the drop off point it seemed like 3km by rickshaw to get to the old town where we wanted to stay. First choice was the Hotel Haveli, and luckily enough they had a room for Rs600 that was good enough. It had been a long day and we hadn't had a meal since lunch. The Haveli is famed for having the best rooftop restaurant in town, the Jharokha. Every night they put on a cultural dance and music show, so we quickly showered and headed for the roof.

The rooftop has the most awesome view of Jodhpur's famed Mehrangarh fort, which hangs as an austere guardian above the town. In other directions other landmarks are clearly visible, like the central clock tower and the palace. We opted for their 'Rajasthani full meal', which is a Thali dinner for Rs160, which was good quality.

We managed to catch about an hour of the show. Two ladies and a young girl accompanied by three musicians performed a typical style of evocative dance. A nice way to end a long and tiring day.

Wednesday 29th September - A sightseeing day today. But first, breakfast on the rooftop of the Haveli. The morning view of Mehrangarh fort is awesome, and a great way to start the day.

The fort was about 20 minutes amble through the old town. Quite steep in parts, and with the temperature rising, hard work. Pretty in a rough and random way, and plenty to see as old folk go about their daily routines.

The last time I visited the fort, about 3 years ago, I was on an organised tour with a local guide. This time we took the free audio guide tour that comes with the entrance tickets. 300 rupees each and just have to leave a credit card for security deposit for the guide. It was a great way to do it. Lots of information and able to do it at our own pace, and take breaks when we wanted. It is a beautiful fort, with plenty of intricate detailed jali panels, and ornate rooms. It reminds you of the era when the Maharaja's life was that of a real ruler. Elaborate, romantic and powerful. A formidable place, defended from its ramparts by some formidable canons. The reason that Jodpurh is called the Blue city cannot be more evident than from the fort. A wonderful calming sea of blue, chosen for its soothing and mosquito ridding effects. It has that wow factor, that disguises the noise and mayhem that happens on the streets below.

Less than 15 minutes walk from the fort is the Jaswant Thada memorial. A beautiful white marble construction surrounded by tranquil gardens, where we relaxed for a while under the shade of the trees.

On the way out, a film company were shooting something with a group singing to music on a cart being pulled by a camel. The producer was going nuts as every passerby was walking through the scene taking photos, including us. It was cool though, as they were dressed in bright native clothing.

A late lunch in the old town before heading to the clock tower and Sadar market. It is easy to fall under the spell of Jodhpur. It is noisy, it is crazy, but it is lovable. The Sadar market is frequented by many tribal folk who add colour and diversity to an already remarkable market. Just about anything you want at local prices, as long as you are tough with the bargaining. Spices, clothing, excellent quality fruit and vegetables, are all available. You can have your teeth fixed at the roadside dentist. Find some treasures at the salvage yard. Shop for antiques, although the advice is to not buy them, as they are stripping the heritage from the state. Realistic reproduction 'fake antiques' are available, and this is the place to buy. Cows meander through, intermeshed with the weaving motorbikes and rikshaws. It is easy to get knocked over here, so you have to keep your wits about you.

The heat was going out of the day and we decided to take a rikshaw to the Umaid Bhawan palace (Rs60). It was amusing on the access road...the security guard asked for our passports. I told him we didn't have them. That's ok....in you go. So why bother asking for them? It closes at 5pm and we arrived at 5:15pm. From the outside it is a magnificent sandstone building which is divided into a museum, a high class hotel and also the residence of the present maharaja. There isn't much to see in the museum, so we where in and out in about 20 minutes and our driver was waiting to whisk us back to the haveli. We got out near to it as there was a nice camel by the bamboo area that was just asking to be photographed. I was gagging for a cold beer...ahhhh...went down a treat.

One thing we have learnt recently, and this is how the locals, restaurant staff, dancers, musicians and almost anyone else you come into contact with, treat us. All smiles and where are you from, etc etc...and then some small talk...and then the phrase you have been waiting for... Either something like....'I am collecting euros, pounds, dollars' etc or the hand goes out and 'Bakshish'...or 'donation'. If nothing comes forth, the smile quickly disappears. The music stops. The look can change to almost a sneer. We have been snubbed many times and almost ignored by restaurant staff who didn't get a tip. They even return the folder the bill is in as if we have forgotten something. It has annoyed us a lot recently, and made it unpleasant at times. I no longer tell anyone I am from the UK. Afraid to admit my nationailty. I invent a country they cannot have heard of, so they cannot make a connection about the exchange rate. My white skin and language gives it away obviously, but it is a game. Udaipur was amusing though. They are cunning in their approach, making it a pleasant game. They will find something to complement you on. Trying to lure you to their shop or to befriend you. They will still finish with a smiling 'Namaste' as you walk past. So easy to deal with and you have to smile. They will have another attempt the next time they see you pass. No hostility or bad attitude. I really liked Udaipur for that. Jodhpur seems a completely different attitude.

Shiera is a little homesick. Not surprising as this is the longest she has ever been away from home. It happens around 3 months onwards to most people. We have been on the road for 4 1/2 months now, leaving on May 15th from the Philippines. A lot has happened since then and a lot more travelling to come yet.

More from the road another day...bye for now...

Udaipur

jeffbrad — Mon, 27 Sep 2010 11:00:00 GMT

Wednesday 22nd September - After a comfortable and quiet night in the 007 room at Poonam Haveli we had a lazy start. Tiredness catching up. Much to see and do here, but first breakfast. We chose the superb Mawal Haveli. The rooftop restaurant is beautiful, airy and has a lovely lounge area to look out over the cityscape. The food was excellent and the guy who served us so pleasant. We were interested in the design and artwork and the offered to arrange a meeting with Mr Kailasha, the painter who is famous in Udaipur for his painting. Whilst we were there we checked out the rooms. All tastefully decorated and quiet. We might consider moving there soon.

The first major sight of the day was a visit to Lal Ghat. Today is the finale of the Ganpati festival, and numerous groups are floating and bathing their Ganesh statues is ceremony. Pink powder is a factor, and much of it is scattered everywhere, including anyone passing. Throughout the day it would continue, but we headed for the Palace.

Rs50 entry plus Rs200 for a camera (same old scam again...more expensive for the camera than the visitor). There are many superlatives to describe the city palace, most of which vary on awesome, incredible, humongous. It is the largest in Rajasthan. Just inside the entrance are 7 arches, which symbolize the 7 maharajas who were weighed and their weight in gold or silver given out to the locals. Within the palace museum, one room after another of gorgeous detail and architecture. Some are mirrored to play with the light reflected in the different colored glass. The external cupolas and balconies are all intricately sculpted. A romantic fairytale place and a perfect day to explore it.

As if that wasn't enough...the next on the agenda had to be a boat trip on Pichola lake. Rs25 entry ticket to the jetty area plus Rs300 each for the ticket. The 1 hour trip around the lake gives a view of the beautiful Lake Palace. They cannot go too close as it is a privately owned hotel. The main feature of the trip is a stop at the Jagmandir island and palace. We were thirsty and hungry, but nothing can prepare for the prices on Jagmandir. 145 rupees for a mineral water. 500 rupees for a sandwich. I am sure it would be the most awesome sandwich on the planet, but it would hit your budget hard. I often wonder that even in high class places, why they pitch all of their prices so high. Thousands of tourists come through this place every day, and almost nobody buys even a water. What a loss of business. Even an ice-cream is 250 rupees. The staff wander around with nothing to do other than to continually shuffle napkins and knives and forks around to keep themselves busy. Drop the price a little and they would be gainfully employed all day.

The Jagmandir gardens are pretty and well manicured. There is an inner area that non-resident guests cannot access, which is fair enough. Sunset was approaching, and some openings in the perimeter walling gave a great perspective as the clouds went through some lovely colour changes.

As well as shooting Octopussy around the streets of Udaipur, a major part of the film was done on Jagmandir and at the lake palace hotel. Around town there are plenty of opportunities to see the Octopussy movie replayed every night, in case you cannot remember the scenes.

After returning to dry land we walked back into town. The whole town is dependent on tourism, so there is an endless stream of souvenir shops, travel agents or services from massage to salons. Tonight is the finale of Ganpati, and we saw from the boat earlier a mass crowd at the main ghat, so aimed there to see what was happening. The peak of activity had finished, but there were still plenty of vehicles arriving carrying their Ganesh statue and then performing their ritual dipping in the lake. It has to be seen to be appreciated. Pink powder factors a lot in the ceremony, and clouds of powder get randomly thrown in the air or at people. Music plays and candles are floated on the lake too. It is a colourful spectacle full of happy atmosphere.

We were starving after having almost nothing since breakfast, so went for dinner at the highest rooftop in Udaipur old town, opposite to the Poonam Haveli. As expected, another awesome tantalizing attack on our taste buds. Down in the streets we could here the Ganpati groups parading and hammering out their pounding rhythms. The palaces on lake Pichola were now alight in a romantic shimmering setting. A beautiful night, and an amazing atmosphere.

Thursday 23rd September - we had decided to move on to the Mewar Haveli today and had reserved a room last night. Breakfast at the Poonam, which is basic and not as good as the Mewal, but ok. They had lost an important item of Shiera's clothing, and we ended up in an argument with them over it. To be honest, the Poonam could be better than it is. The 007 room we stayed in was a nice experience, due to its name, although the taps and toilet seat were broken. They could maintain it better, especially for the price they charge.

Off to the Mewal Haveli and out to their wonderful rooftop restaurant whilst we waited for our room to be prepared. The staff here are excellent. Friendly and easy to deal with. Professional and gracious towards guests. The restaurant as already mentioned, is excellent. Even beans on toast is an experience, and probably the best you will find anywhere.

Having settled into our new room we decided to change plan and just relax today. Always something to do or place to go. One thing we did want to do though is the regular Cultural show. Run every evening from 7pm until 8pm at the Bagore-ki-Haveli by Gangaur ghat. It gave us enough time take a late lunch. As with most things at the Mewar, even though the restaurant wasn't due to be open for another 3 hours or more, they opened it for us. Nothing too much of a problem.

Before the show, more activities happening at the ghat. This time they had laid blankets on the ground for people to sit on whilst rituals were being performed on ornate Palanquins. I guess that this had been going on throughout the day and we had missed a lot of the event.

The dance show was good entertainment. Tabla and Harmonium for the main backing, with most being provided by the dancers. The usual Rajashtani moving rainbow of beautiful coloured sarees and fancy jewellery as they danced to beating rhythms. Swirling skirts. Jingling ankle bells, and a few surprises. The finale act was a single lady dancing whilst stacking pots on her head. Another section was a puppet show.

Friday 24th Sep - Breakfast was interesting. Last night at the Jasmine restaurant on the other side of the lake, we ordered too much food and ended up with a Rajasthani pizza left. It is a spicy version of a Calzone pizza mixed with the appearance of a giant samosa. The hotel restaurant warmed it up for us and it slipped down a treat with coffee and their special beans on toast. Absolutely stuffed and no need to eat for the rest of the day.

The plan was a tuk-tuk tour of a few out of town places. Negotiated 300 rupees for the whole day and set off to our first stop, the lovely heritage and craft village of Shilpgram, about 4km west of the old town.

On the way to Shilpgram it is hard to imagine this area during the regualr drought season. The lakes are bone dry and the bed is used to play cricket. All of the 'water' features such as the lake palace, can be accessed on foot.

Entrance fee is Rs30(foreigner) plus Rs30 camera fee. The heritage village was quiet and we got an excellent guide to talk us around the displays. Recreated from different parts of India, and some active with crafts people and music or dance performances. It is government sponsored and different tribal groups and artisans are brought in throughout the season. Some of those we saw are only there for 2 weeks, others maybe 4 weeks, before they go home. The first compound was a small compound filled with desert style buildings from the Jaisalmer Thar desert regions. Ladies were busy replacing the cow dung and clay flooring. A messy and smelly business and all done by hand. I hope they wash their hands before they eat! Ingenious use of the 'raw' material to create buildings for homes, weaving and even a freezer. Other dislays were closed as they only open for the heritage show in December. Some of the craft displays included 'Nail art'...using a finger nail to emboss a design into thick paper. Silk painting. We were so impressed that we had to buy a painting. And a few textile crafts. The music and dance performers were friendly although most are ultimately after some Bakshish for their efforts. We were advised at the entrance to give nothing extra, as they get paid by the government, but it doesn't stop them trying. They seemed a grumpy and scowled at us when we walked away without a 'donation'. The guide we had was knowledgable and friendly. Only cost 100 rupees for his time.

Next stop was the Sakhelion-ki-Bara gardens in the north of the town. 5 rupees entrance fee. The weather was taking its toll on the gardens and the fountains weren't working. Some maintenance work was being done, so they didn't look their best.

Final destination was Ahar, an interesting burial place where 350 mausoleums for the Maharajas are located. A sea of onion-domed roofs. There is a sign at the entrance stating 'No Photography'. However, a little bakshish buys anything here!

On the way back to town we drove through the locals market area. It is a wonderful place of activity. Crafts people making baskets, metalware, carvings, and spices. We had come with a list of some of the more unusual spices we needed. Asafoetida, Carom seeds, Nigella seeds, Lemon seeds, Vetivier (caraway), dried mango powder, You name it, you can buy it here....and more importantly...at local prices! Bad news...Gulab Jamun again. 4 pieces for 10 rupees, so we indulged in a rather disgusting 12 pieces. How bad is that...calorie overload!

You can tell when yu need to take a rest and Udaipur is a perfect place for that. Not unpacking and repacking luggage every day. We ended the day with room service delivering dinner and drinks and just watching 'So you think you can dance' and movies on TV until we fell asleep. And finishing off the Gulab Jamun we had bought. I felt like my stomach was on overload with the rich food we have been having. Too much, but hard to resist.

Saturday was a Chillaxing day to get laundry done, plan the next steps of the journey, and get up to date with stuff. Laying in the cool matted area in the restaurant looking out at the beautiful Jagdish temple's Gopurum in one direction, and lake Pichola and the palaces in the other. It is one of the most perfect rooftop environments to just relax in. Ahhhhh....

Later in the day we visited the Jagdish temple. An intricately sculpted temple. Some interesting Sadhu characters line the entrance steps posing for photos and hoping for a little bakshish in return. The detail on the temple is awesome and probably one of the best in the state.

One of the roads leading away from the Jagdish temple heads towards the locals bazaar. Almost every craft is represented within the area, and wandering the streets is a treat. The highlight for is was the fruit and vegetable market, which is adjacent to the basket and bamboo wares area. An amazing technicoloured sight of sari intermingled with the most perfect produce available anywhere.

With this quality, it is understandable why being vegetarian is a good option here.

We had dinner at the Kumbha hotel rooftop restaurant, located in the shadow of the city palace. The nightly sound and light show was playing out (7 to 8 pm).

The Mewar hotel's owner rang late evening and asked if we wanted to join another couple tomorrow for a tour to Ranakpur and Kumbalgharh fort. It fitted ok into our plans and so we agreed.

Sunday 26th September - 9am start for the tour to Kumbalgarh and Ranakpur. Getting out of Udaipur was a bit manic, but once we were out in the open we were treated to some wonderful sights along the way. Women carrying large mounds of straw or sticks on their heads. Multi-coloured swathes of colour along the roads as groups of women go about their business. Even the guys added to the colour. Turbans make a statement here. Yellow, orange, pink, blue, multi-coloured. You name it, someone will be wearing it. Another common sight is jewellery on the guys as well as face jewellery on the ladies. Large nose rings with gold chains and jewels linking their ears and nose. There are so many awesome sights that we couldn't keep stopping the car to take photos or we wouldn't get to our destination. Ladies working so hard as usual. A very common sight was a group of sari clad ladies with pick axes or shovels digging trenches of breaking rocks. Really hard manual labour from ladies dressed like a rainbow. Surreal!

Our first destination was the awesome Kumbalgarh fort 84km north of Udaipur. Foreigner Rs100 entry. Built by the Maharana Kumbha in 15th century, it is an isolated place surrounded by a walled kingdom. Clean and tidy, it is an incredible sight. No touristy sellers of souvenirs, or pestering touts. Just a great place to visit and be left alone to wander around. Apart from the fort, the walled city also contains a couple of temples and a section of wall to walk along. The weather was very hot and the view superb and clear today. I did wonder why such a masterpiece was built in such an isolated location, but he must have had his reasons, other than a large hill with a magnificent view was waiting for something to be built on it.

We stopped for lunch at the Harmony restaurant on the way to Ranakpur. A bit of a scam going on there, as it seemed that all the taxi drivers stopped there. We entered, asked to see the menu and were told that there was no menu but it was fixed price buffet at 250 rupees each and we could refill our plates. We decided to catch them at their game and just filled one plate with as much as we could, and had a refill too. Another group came in with some Indian people in it and asked for a menu...and were given one! We looked at the waiter...and he looked at us...and came over and reminded us that we could refill our plates. We went over and got the menu, which had meals on it for 60 rupees! We had a beer which was one of the most expensive since we came to India...everything had taxes on top. Lunh was nearly 500 rupees with taxes. With a menu, it would have been half that!

Onwards to Ranakpur. Free entry to the temple, but another scam. Rs50 camera...each camera. Any extra cameras other than the one you have a voucher for should be left in a room by the entrance. We had an argument with the security lady about it. Also, no water allowed in the main temple and no leather items. The Jain temple was constructed from white marble. Contains 29 halls, supported by 1444 pillars, with no two the same. It is a beautiful intricate dediation to their faith. One of India's finest temples.

The journey back was also an experience. The Gowri people have an incredible way of celebrating. The guys dress up, paint their faces and decorate themselves with jewellery. We passed many groups on their way to dances. This is not for tourism, it is their normal way of life. To witness it is a priviledge. So many things are staged for tourists that it doesn't feel natural. Passing through these village communities doing what they do for themsleves is a great experience.

So many sights today and the couple from Switzerland that we shared the taxi with were nice company. Dinner in the Mewar Haveli's rooftop restaurant looking at the stars and the beautiful skyline of Udaipur. It has been a wonderful day.

Mumbai to Udaipur

jeffbrad — Sat, 25 Sep 2010 12:00:00 GMT

Saturday 18th September - Moving on today to Nasik. Taxi for Rs150 to Dadar to catch a bus. He dropped us at a roadside bus stop. The bus wasn't due for another 90 minutes, so the guy at the ticket office suggested we went to the main Central Terminus where the bus would leave at 10am, which is where we wanted to go in the first place. He insisted on another 50 rupees to take us there. No way. Anyway, we went. The 10am bus had left at 9am, and the next wouldn't be until 11:30am. At this point, the thought of a death wish was high. No option but to sit it out. Of course, they offer an alternative of private car for a whopping 2000 rupees! Oh yeah...do we look stupid? How about an AC bus for 400 rupees. When does that leave? 2pm. It is now 10am. How much is the non-AC. 200 rupees. Ok then. Where is it you want to go then? Nasik...why do you think we are standing here talking about the cost of getting to Nasik? So, do you want a cab to go and get the private car? At this point I just wanted to kill everyone within arm’s length. Is there something about the human brain that never developed in some of the people selling travel tickets? Or do they just enjoy pissing people off and wanting to terminate their life prematurely?

As an aside...On the way to Dadar, the driver bought a bunch of Chili and lemon from a lady and tied to the front of the taxi. We noticed the same bunches tied in stalls. What is that about then? There is something about Indian culture and their religious beliefs that makes even poor people grasp at strange ideas in an aim for some form of absolution. What is the symbology associated with chili and lemon though?

So we are now sat on a bus going to Nasik (Aka Nashik). Not remarkable in itself, but getting from the ticket office to getting on the bus was another one of those 'I want to kill more people' situations. After 90 minutes of waiting around, the ticket office guy had vanished. Another guy arrived and took us to another office. Someone else then arrived after another 10 minutes and ran off into the distance with a group of people in tow. With luggage and the steaming heat we couldn't catch up. I had to run ahead, backpack flapping away and order him to stop so Shiera could catch up. Another hundred metres or so further on and we ended up stood by the side of a road for a while. When the bus did arrive, we had to argue with the conductor over the seats as they wanted to give us the worse seats on the bus. No way again. Everything is such a hassle sometimes. Fortunately, one passenger spoke some English and argued with the conductor on our behalf, who then left us alone. You can end up getting stressed all the time. Lies, mis-information, arguments and bad attitude are a way of life. There have been some really nice experiences over the past few days. But to be honest, the best thing about Mumbai was leaving it. Sorry to sound harsh, but it has been hard work.

Mumbai is vast. It is really an island, but getting to the northern escape hatch where the road bridges link it to the mainland took about 90 minutes. The black and yellow 'Bumble Bee' taxis gave way to Black and yellow 'Wasps'...I.e. Tuk-tuks. The suburbs seemed awash with them, in similarly vast numbers. Like a nest with them all buzzing around in search of food. On the western side of the carriageway two large pipes seemed endless. Not sure, but i think they are oil? What is evident is the scale of the warehouse business here. We passed many kilometers of the most enormous warehouses. I guess that with a city the size of Mumbai, the supply chain to support this needs to be incredible.

After crossing to the mainland, It soon turns green and the road wide and relatively empty. After a meal break we carried on to Nashik through some stunning scenery. Beautiful Mountain ranges and intense green paddies for what seemed endless miles. This has to be some of the best scenery we have seen so far in India. It had to end sometime though, and entering Nashik is a shock after the beauty of the open countryside and fresh air. Back to the congested horn honking noise. We had opted for the hotel Abishek out of the guidebook. What we hadn't realized was that Nasik would be gripped by Ganesh fever. The Ganpati festival is in full flow, ad being one of the major religious cities of Maharashtra state, attracts pilgrims in vast numbers. Surrounding the hotel was more Ganesh displays and animated stories accompanied by sound systems than you could wish for in such a small space. Traffic competed for space. Control police added to the melee with whistles to direct the manic crowd. In short...it was a nuts place to be. Ideal then!

An argument on check-in as they changed their price twice. 345 rupees, when I viewed the room, followed by 395 rupees and then 500 rupees. It was clear that is asked for a double for two people, but their price kept climbing. Chaos or what? I got fed up with them as it had bean a long day of arguments at every stage in getting here, so my patience was running very low.

Anyway, not much time to waste, so dumped the luggage in our room and hit the streets. The main area surrounds the Ramkund bathing tank. An amazing area where pilgrims in large numbers bathe and offer Pooja. Floating candles on the Godavari river. It is quite a dramatic sight. The light was fading and the scene emotive.

What was even more dramatic was...and here's a question....are we attracting dead bodies, or just unlucky? On the way into the bathing tank area, we noticed the body of a lady on the entrance steps, covered in a blanket. Someone passed and offered the suggestion that she was just asleep. I don't think so. It turned out to be yet another dead body. Our third in 2 days! We wandered around to find out what was happening to have the corpse moved. The total apathy amongst most people was saddening. We eventually found some police who were more interested in us and where we came from, than another dead body. An ambulance would be due within 10 minutes. So how long has it been there...a day was the reply. So, for a whole day, thousands of pilgrims had walked past this body, and the police were no more than 10 metres away from it....and it was only just about to be removed. The lady's body would go to the hospital. We guessed, to be used for students to poke, prod and analyze. Nobody would care who she was. Did she have any family. Another nameless cadaver and one more to add to the statistic. Three dead bodies in short space of time is too much to take. It makes you cry!

You have to absorb this type of situation. To understand it. To rationalize what is going on. To come to terms so that you can carry on and enjoy the sheer potency of what is an intoxicating culture. Around the Ramkund are a couple of ancient temples. At night, the atmosphere is interesting. The stairs climbing to the Kapaleshwar temple are lined with Sadhus and beggars reaching out for a rupee or two, or other offering. The extremely devout Hindus pray, offer, anoint, in their ever familiar ritualisation of their faith. Up the road from the temple, a line of people, mainly male stand in queue with their bowl, for their prassad offering. Their free meal of the day. Glitz and glamour of one Ganesh display after another seems to be a complex contrast to the poverty, squalor and death that surrounds. The human mind is complex to understand...but, some cultures more than others.

Tired and hungry, we tracked down a great restaurant at the Sahib family restaurant. A nice cold Kingfisher beer and superb food. Aahhhh... What else but to track down a goodies shop after wards, and indulge in some Gulab Jamun. Followed by another shop for some gloopy Rasmalai looking thing that was deadly for 20 rupees. Had to go back to the hotel before we reached calorie overload. It has been a long, tiring and thought provoking day.

Sunday 19th Sep - A couple of old shrines to visit In the morning, close to the hotel. Went into the Seeta Gumpha, which had an interesting multi-headed figure on a chariot, but just looked at the Kalaram temple aross the road. Both small shrines. The town was more subdued than last night. I was so tired last night. I remember the incredible noise from the street that just faded out as I went to sleep. Normally I find it so difficult to sleep amidst noise. But last night nothing would have kept me awake.

A majot attraction of the Nasik area is that it is a burgeoning player in the Indian wine market. The climate is warm, the soil good and the terrain reaonable flat. We took a rickshaw out to the Sula Vineyard, about 13km away. Only took about 25 minutes to get there. The vineyard runs a tour and wine tasting from 11:30am, so we had a little time to relax and take in the view. Takes me back to France and endless landscape of vines.

150 rupees each for the tour and we got to sample 6 wines afterwards. A mix of 1 sparking, 2 white, 1 rose, 1 desert and 1 red. Harvest time is January to March, and production isn't running now, but at least we could see their storage vats and machines. The wine market here is growing steadily each year by about 0.5% total consumption of alcohol. The climate is a bit too warm for storage, so it has to be treated carefully after purchase. One of the highlights was a deluxe cheese and mixed fruit and nut platter. We both crave for cheese and crackers and with the nie wine and a cappuccino to follow, made for a perfect setting and experience. Considering the tormented day we had yesterday, it compensated in a big way. It was Shiera's first time in vineyard and a really enjoyable one.

We got the driver to drop us at the Central Bus Terminal in town afterwards. Next destination Aurangebad. 196 rupees and should take around 5 hours leaving about 2pm. We had to laugh...the conductor from the bus next to us came up to the window and offered 150 rupees for the same journey. We had already paid. The bus was identical. I asked our conductor why we paid 196 and the identical bus next to us only wanted 150 rupees. This is a 'Luxury Bus'. It was so funny. They were identical. Both falling apart and parts of the bus missing...doesn't it feel better now that we know we are travelling in a 'Luxury' Government bus! I also felt happier that our driver had more hair growing out of his ears than out of his head. Reminded me of the Planet of the apes movie.

Most of the route is flat agricultural land. More vineyards, Maize, Beans, plus some crops I couldn't recognize from the bus.

We arrived back into the busy traffic of Aurangebad at about 7pm, and aimed for the Shree Maya Hotel (Rs15). A comfortable place for Rs495 for a double. Food is good quality and also had a small bottle of Merlot wine with it that I had bought at the Sula Vineyards.

Monday 20th Sep - A day of sightseeing. Outside the Shree Maya, Sheik was waiting with his Rickshaw and it seemed a fair price to pay 500 rupees for the whole days transport and sights. Clean rickshaw and he spoke reasonable English. First stop was to survey the travel agents to book our onward overnight bus to Ahmedabad. 650 rupees for an aircon sleeper departing at 4:30pm, giving us about 5 hours to see everything and get back for a shower and a meal before heading for the bus.

The Bibi Qa Maqbara is famous for being a mini Taj Mahal...also referred to as the 'Poor man's Taj'. Constructed by Auranzeb's son Azan Khan in 1697 as a mausoleum for his mother and originally planned to be constructed in marble like the bigger version, his spends were cut by his father, so he had to settle for cheaper materials, mainly lime cement and stone. 100 rupees foreigner entrance fee. It was quiet when we arrived and was really pretty. Like its larger counterpart, it has a central avenue lake pointing towards the 'Taj'. The reflection was nice and clear and a super platform to take photos from. The main mausoleum does have some really nice marble trellis design windows. Inside the central dome area a rug in the base with thousands of scattered donation coins. There is some restoration work being carried out on the outer dome roof and some has already been done on the walls.

Next stop was a 30km ride out of town along the road we came along from Nasik yesterday, to the Ellora caves. Along the way are a few places to stop for photo shoots. There are some interesting phenomena in this part of the world. Number 1....yellow cows! Yes, yellow cows! Well, they have an animal festival, during which the farmers are so happy, that they paint their cattle yellow. Number 2...the guys like wearing Pink turbans. It is so colourful. We were lucky enough to see phenomenon numbers 1 and 2 together. A cart being pulled by yellow cows with red horns, and driven by a guy with pink turban. Like a moving rainbow.

Ellora caves are immense. 34 caves stretching for a couple of kilometers along the face of a hill, they are a system of temples and caves hewn out of solid stone over a period of 5 centuries around the 7th century onwards. The centre of cave system avenue is the immense Kailasha temple (cave 16), dedicated to lord Shiva. An amazing feat of human endeavor and engineering. 200,000 tonnes of rock were hand chiseled out of the hill by 7000 laborers over a period of 150 years to create three huge trenches, followed by the carving of the temple itself. It is the largest monolithic sculpture in the world! Only one word for it...wow....

We only did the stretch of caves from 1 to 16 due to limited time, but it was enough to get the feel of the place. The Ajanta caves in the north of the state are equally famous but earlier in construction, and both are Unesco World Heritage listed.

On the way back we stopped at Aurangzeb's tomb. A tour by a blind guy who as usual wanted to tell us his life's history so that we would give him a personal donation.

This area is famed for Figs, Guava and Custard apple, all of which are cheap by the roadside.

Not much time left, so we rushed back to the hotel for a quick shower and an even more rushed meal, before Sheik collected us and delivered us to the bus pick-up point.

I had reserved sleeper berths on the Gujarat Travels aircon bus to Ahmadabad. It arrived promptly at 4:30pm and once we all got into place, set off. Fairly smooth and quiet by comparison to the buses we had taken in India so far. Hoping for a good night's sleep, but not much chance of one. A bit like riding along on a bouncy castle for the first few hours as we passed through some towns. Settled down a little after that. Time to reflect on some other stuff we have learnt. It is common to see men with almost fluorescent orange, or even red beards, or hair. Something to cover up the Grey of growing older. To be honest, they draw ore attention to themselves than if they just left alone. It does make it colourful though. In the west we are used to women dying their hair as they get older. Most men just accept it, or shave it off like I have. My reason is one of practicality, in that I have to shave my face anyway, so why not just shave the lot. In a few minutes every other day, it is done. Saves money when you are travelling a lot. There is a downside. I am always getting by scalp sun burnt. Forget to put lotion on, and occasionally forget to take a hat on cloudy days. The rays are still there and I get burnt. Used it now though. How about I take their idea and grow my hair back but dye it orange, or pink, or green? I will file that idea in the same section of my brain that is thinking....yet again...about ear piercings and tattoos. Both Shiera and I have been talking about it. Will it happen? Only if we are committed to it. I have thought about it for years but never done either yet. Which will come first...green hair, pierced ear, or a tattoo of a Gecko running up my arm?

Long periods of travel have to be done with a different approach than short breaks. It is tiring having to plan all the time. Where to go, how to get there, where to stay, what to see, how long to stay, have to do the laundry, catch up with some writing and the photos mount up. Many thousand since we entered India alone in early August. The book I want to write is still in my head. Another day another place. Need to take a break soon to get straight. Of course, we are entering Rajasthan in the next day or two. Not the best place to take a break as there is so much to see and places to go. We have gone past the rains now and it will just get hotter and drier from here, adding to the strain. And so it goes on.

Tuesday 21st September - After a crazy journey of mainly rough roads and a few occasions when my whole body levitated off the bed...I didn't know I could do that, we arrived off the state highway into Ahmadabad at around 7:30am. The feeling was to not stay in Ahmadabad, but to carry straight on to Udaipur in Rajasthan. Fortunately, where we were dropped was also an agent for the bus to Udaipur which would leave 45 minutes later. Enough time for the toilet and a cup of chai before we took a rickshaw across town to the departure point. A group og German students that arrived on the same bus were also heading to Udaipur, so we travelled together. 200 rupees and about 5 hours journey time.

With no time for breakfast, we had to make do with some bananas from a passing seller after we had set off. Ahmadabad is a typical commercial city. Noisy, busy and dusty. It does have some mosques that supposed to be worth a visit. The rickshaws are green and yellow which is a change from the normal black and yellow or cream of everywhere else. The style of dress seemed typical of a predominantly Muslim city.

By 9:30am we had left the city and entered the more tranquil green of the countryside. Windows open and fresh air breezing through....time to relax and rest. Not a bad journey other than the usual stop at the most dodgy eatery on the route. Bugs everywhere and food you wouldn't want to feed your worst enemy.

We arrived into Udaipur about 6 hours after leaving Ahmadabad, and were dropped by the railway station. A 40 rupee rickshaw ride into town from there and the usual driver wanting to take us other than where we asked. Our choice was the last place he wanted to go. Anyway, we were looking for a traditional Haveli. The old house style of Rajasthan with courtyard environment. After checking a few we settled on the Poonam Haveli at 39 Lal Ghat. And we managed to get the 007 room! This area is famed for the shooting of the James Bond movie Octopussy with Roger Moore. The Poonam is a nice and clean place with rooftop restaurant and good view of the palace and Pichola lake. Not the cheapest, but at 1,200 rupees, we are satisfied to be staying a bit more comfortable than usual. After the past couple of days travelling, we were feeling rather grubby and tired. A freshen up, clean shave and a shower made the difference.

An awesome meal on the roof of the Poonam. A superb introduction to eating Rajasthani style, and a great view as the sun went down.

Today is the penultimate day of the Ganesh festival a stage had been erected nearby for a dance show. Initially local children performing some dance hits, followed by some more professional displays in traditional costumes. In front of the stage was a sea of ladies in their colorful sarees and scarves making it quite a picture.

Goa to Mumbai

jeffbrad — Fri, 17 Sep 2010 22:00:00 GMT

Monday 13th September - Time to move on from Calangute. To get a foreign quota seat on a train leaving soon, we have to go to the train station at Margao (Madgaon). Cannot book on line as with other seat including the Tatkal quota.

Our standard Big breakfast at the Eclipse bar before heading for the bus to Panaji. The standard taxi fare all the way to Margao is 800 rupees. One guy offered 300 to share with some others. It is so easy and cheap to do by local bus. Rs13 each to Panaji and then queue to get a non-stop shuttle service to Margao for Rs26 each, leaving every 10 minutes. Total Rs78 for the two of us. Once we arrived in Margao it was crazy. Honking nose to bumper traffic until we got off at the city bus stand near to the Municipal gardens. Fortunately, a local bus goes from there to near the railway station for Rs5 each.

The reservation centre was busy, but it was deceiving. Pass the mad queues to the far counter that says foreigner, disabled citizens, etc and request a booking form. Within 5 minutes I was attended to. I just asked to get us on the earliest train out to Mumbai. Total surprise when he asked if we were ready to go tonight. Was only Sleeper class, but at least we got on a train and saved the hassle of having to stay in Madgaon or surrounding area. Cheap tickets too at 576 rupees for the two of us including the Rs40 reservation fee.

Our train, the 0112 Konkan Kanya Express, was due to depart at 16:45 and arrive in Mumbai at 05:50. Killing time at Margao is easy as there is a good restaurant split with veg and non-veg sides. Great value for money and good quality.

The KKE train arrived as planned at 16:45 and departed at 16:55. Our sleeper class carriage was almost empty. Surprising considering it was fully 'Wait-listed' on the internet. Something I struggle to understand on the Indian train system, how so much of it is wait-listed when in reality there is plenty of space, and that takes into acount the foreign quota and the Tatkal quota.

Anyway, windows open and the fans on full. A lovely breeze coming through the carriage and the sun shining outside with a light shower adding a sparkle to the air. A nice start to the journey.

Shiera has been going through some sweats and chills for the past day or so, which is concerning me. Plus she is beginning a light cough. The usual signs of Malaria.

We shared our facing berths with a lovely indian couple who spoke good English. As usual the lady was interested in Shiera like a mother with her daughter.

The train stopped a number of times. Each time, darker than the last and progressively filling up our carriage. Around 9pm the guy opposite climbed onto his top bed, put on his cap and started praying to Mecca. I guess they must instinctively know where Quiblat is unless there is a sign somewhere. How accurate does a Muslim's direction have to be when praying...anyone out there who can tell me?

A regular passage up and down the carriage of Chai, Coffee, Pakora, Biryani, Gulab Jamun, did I mention Gulab Jamun...yep, bought some of those, cold drinks and other snacks. Actually, as I reported in a past journal, the real names of what these guys are selling is more like Frizzleworlybums.... brumbarumbadums....dahdyningnings. Does anyone have any idea what they are saying?

Along the way, occupying time is easy. The current job is working out the costs of potential businesses and also designing apartments for rent. Isn't life exiting...even on a train!

A gay indian dressed in a pink saree boarded the train at one station, resplendent with gold jewellery and was begging along the carriage. Now, who is going to donate a single rupee to that kind of misfit? As an incentive, she/he/it had some rupee notes wedged between fingers as if others had already donated. Perhaps it was a local bicycle? Come into the toilet for a bit of stand-up howzyafather between stations.. Cheap at 10 rupees a go

I had pre-booked four nights at the Lawrence Hotel near to the areas of interest. At 700 rupees per night with shared bathroom, it is one of the few cheap options in Mumbai. By the way, I still prefer the name Bombay. How different does it sound to buy my favourite snack of Bombay mix, if it was called Mumbai mix. How about the famous Bombay duck...a fish dish...if it were called Mumbai duck? Doesn't have the same ring to it. Why do cities change their names? Buggers up the maps, books, tourists, road signs. Like recently in Bangalore. Now called Bengalaru. Bangalore is the epicentre of India's I.T. industry. Will the world start calling it Bengalaru instead? Chennai was originally Madras. Has anyone ever asked for a chicken Chennai curry in a restaurant...instead of a chicken Madras? Doesn't work does it. Here's a silly idea. My home town is Liverpool in the UK. I don't like liver personally, so let's rename it boobpool instead...I like boobs better. Would it catch on? It must be late in the day...my brain needs sleep...goodnight keypad...Zzzzz...

We arrived in Mumbai's CST station shortly before 7:30am. The final crawl into CST is a horrific sight on an empty stomach. We saw maybe half a dozen guys pooing next to the tracks, everything on view to the passing train. The squalor and stench is stomach churning. The irony about all of this is that there is a TV campaign at the moment to stop public spitting and to clean up the act. Who is that aimed at? Do the people perpetrating the offensive acts watch TV? They are uneducated homeless beggars. It has to be stopped in some way. But that is about education and trying to build standards.

For some reason my watch is now 10 minutes wrong ompared to when we arrived in India. In Chennai on 2nd August it was exactly the correct time. Now I have lost 10 minutes. India's Stretchable time (officially IST) again!

There is little option from here other than a taxi. Supposedly Rs100 to get us to the Lawrence hotel, which I had booked ahead. Not that far and was stunned when we got there. Yuk. Shattered windows, filthy building. Took the lift to the 3rd floor and hated it as soon as I walked outside the lift door. The room wasn't available yet, but from what I saw, there was no way we would stay there. Back to the taxi and off on a drive around. The choices here below Rs1000 are fairly dire. What is worse is they have no concept of a good standard. They will try and argue that what you are seeing is really clean and great value for money. To be honest I wouldn't want to be found dead in some of them. To cut a long story short, and ordering the taxi driver to just stop taking us to crap places and follow instructions, we ended up at the 'Traveller's Inn' in the Fort area. Really friendly staff, clean and secure rooms, hot shower and internet available, for Rs930 per night. Close to Colaba causeway and the main sightseeing area too. Pheww...sorted eventually.

Showered, shaved and laundry sorted, we hit the streets. Didn't get far as we needed to eat and luckily enough, the excellent Universal café was right next door almost. Just about any food you could want, and at reasonable price. Artistically designed wrought iron door and window panels and a cool breeze coming through. Aahhhh....relax...

Replenished...off to sight see.....

The Colaba causeway is the arterial route through the Colaba district and is about as central as you could want for seeing the major sights. The huge naval base...off-limits. The Indian Mint....off limits. Bank HQ...off-limits. Some grand buildings. But the grandest along the way is the taj Mahal palace opposite to the grand Gateway of India. After security checks, it is worth going into the 1902 built Taj hotel just to see the lovely opulent lounge area.

The Gateway of India is a bit of irony...built in 1911 to commemorate the visit of King George V, it was re-used in 1935 when they paraded out the last British regiment as India won its Independence. The Gate is closed to the public, but the surrounding area is a gathering ground for ferries to local islands and numerous photographers offering group photos of people and the gate. Plus the normal beggars scrounging for rupees and following to the point of annoyance. Can buy enormous balloons and scare pidgeons too!

After a bit of window shopping...don't really need to buy a window...we moved on to the Maidens. The focal centre of some of the most grandest buildings in Mumbai, mainly legal, and a nice place to chill and watch locals play India's favourite game of cricket. Nobody playing today, but we passed at the wrong time of day. An infusion of energy with a pint of Sugar cane juice for 12 rupees. You could almost survive on sugar cane juice if you had to.

Time for a coffee, and none better than the Mocha café on Veer Nariman road. Also a great place to see the young locals in the smoke room vanish into a cloud of sheesha pipe smoke, whilst the Fez wearing attendants smoke themselves into an early death by demonstrating how it's done.

Veer Nariman leads to Marine drive. The main waterfront road between Nariman point in the south, to Chowpatty beach. Fairly quiet this afternoon and a gentle breeze wafting in from the Arabian sea as we strolled along to the south.

When I last came here there were ornate horse driven carriages ferrying tourists along the front. No sign of them today, and not sure whether they have gone from the scene. They were a quaint sight, especially in the dwindling sun. Maybe it is too hot for them during the day, or they have moved on somewhere else.

Shiera wasn't feeling too good. Sweating and chills inside, plus a developing cough. We had picked up some medicine earlier in the day, and too early to say if it is taking effect. Will have to see tomorrow. Had done enough for today, so grabbed a taxi back to the hotel. Remember never to trust their meter! The price for our 4km ride was only about 100 rupees, although the meter read 300!

Dinner at Universal café again and then on walkabout. The whole country is celebrating the Ganpati festival right now. The elephant god 'Ganesh' is worshipped all the time, but during the festival people decorate their homes and businesses and street displays are erected. Mumbai is one of the best places to observe the rituals and spread around the area are marquees housing Ganesh idols and even animated storybook displays. The finale of the festval is on day 10. Which happens next monday, when all of the local Ganesh idols get a ritual bathing in the sea at Chowpatty beach, and other waterfronts in other parts. I am sure it is quite a sight to see many hundreds of elephant idols accompanied by the pilgrims en-masse. We haven't decided yet whether to stay in Mumbai that long, as we will have done all we want in a couple of days and want to escape the city.

Wed 15th Sep - Took the train from Churchgate station to Mahalaxmi (only 4 rupees each!), to visit the infamous Dhobi Ghats. I remembered from my last visit that it was the washing machine of Mumbai. Unique in the whole of India I think. 10,000 workers, 90% male, work from 4am through to midnight every day, washing upto 1 million items of linen, clothing and servicing to the hotel businesses of the city. It is an amazing sight, sitting right next to the Mahalaxmi railway station. Tourists have to pay 200 rupees to have a guided tour of the place. They are a bit abrupt if you want to take photos or walk in without paying the fee for the guide, claiming that it is dictated by the government. Not sure if that is true?

Hundreds of concrete baths in rows are used for soaking the washing. Numerous machines run continuous to dry the. The sea of clothes hung up in the sun to dry is colourful. Apparently, not a single item goes missing. That is an amazing fact in itself. Outside of the washing compound there isn't that much to see. Just a functional village are that I guess mainly supports the washing businesses.

The idea was to aim to the Mahalaxmi temple a kilometer or so away. The road follows the train line south and then heads off west to the coast. Along the road is an interesting shanty village. A conglomeration of patchwork shacks, piled one on top of another, offer a rather rough home to many people. Manufactured from anything they can get hold of, they are barely holding together. The tenants were bustling around outside washing and cooking like anywhere else. But their lives, and many with young families, is a different one to most more affluent folk. Their children dressed in school uniform looked ready for school, or just come back. What a place to come home to...but they do their best in the circumstances. Mumbai's population statistsics are incredible. The poverty figures even more astonishing.

Shiera started the day feeling better than last night, but a combination of the heat and the revolting smells as you walk the street, started to make her deteriorate. We didn't get much further when we had to abandon the rest of the day's plans, and took a taxi back across town to the hotel so she could go to bed. Worrying as expected, and will need to keep watch over her symptoms. Another thing learnt...check the sort of meter the taxi is using and make sure it is one of the modern ones. That journey, a very long way, only cost 102 rupees. At that price it is hardly worth struggling to walk anywhere. The older meters don't work and over inflated prices get charged.

Thursday 16th - Shiera's health isn't good and had to go to the local St. George's hospital to have her checked out. The walk there is an ordeal in itself. A guy was taken for dead lying on the pavement, covered in a plastic sheet. People just walked around him almost not noticing. Human excrement in the gutters on a busy main road and noxious vapors were too much for Shiera and just added to the ill feeling. The hospital for a foreigner seems chaotic. The locals know how it works. Window 1 to get a paper/register. We were told to go straight to room 3. Room 3 sent us to window 18. Window 18 sent us to another window. Got fed up with that and went to room 24 after the instruction of a guy behind a closed window and bypassed everyone else to see a young female doctor. Blood pressure . Heart etc and then filled in a scrappy bit of paper with some diagnosis. That I couldn't read. Off to room 27...a long way through the hospital, for some blood tests. They wouldn't be ready until 10am tomorrow morning. Free prescription medicines given after a long queue at the pharmacy at window 9. Males in one queue, ladies in another. We both got in the queues in case, and the males won the race and I got served. I argues with him to just give us the medicine and got Shiera to join our queue. He wasn't going to, but I wouldn't budge, so he gave in and give it to us. Now, considering that many people coming here are a bit low on education ( hope I’m not being too unfair here), the medicine is launched through a little opening in the window, and individual tablet prescriptions were wrapped up in screwed up paper. Nothing identifiable on the paper or on the tablet, and so you have to remember what medicine is in which piece of screwed up paper, and the dosage to take each day, with nothing written down in English. The likelihood of getting it wrong is very high. We had five medicines! The nurse who took the blood sample said the lab was only doing Malaria tests. Shiera has not got Malaria. I can almost guarantee it. It is most likely to be Typhoid. The problem is that many early symptoms are similar for many diseases. Even Dengue fever seems similar to others and cannot be treated.

Plenty of rest for the remainder of the day.

Back to the hospital in the morning. What a shambles. Yesterday we had been told to return to room 27 to collect the results. On arrival at room 27, we were told that the results would have been sent to the doctor in room 24. Off we go to find the doctor we saw yesterday. She wasn't back in until Monday and we had to see her for the results and nobody else. This is Friday and she was the one who told us to come back today for the results ! Not good enough, so insisted on seeing another doctor as we are due to leave tomorrow. He came out with a classic statement for a doctor... 'The results of the tests do not matter, just keep taking the medicine'. What a great line eh! So what if she doesn't have Malaria, and you tested her for Malaria...it doesn't matter, just take the medicine. I screwed up their diagnosis paper and threw it at them and walked out. Now, on the way into the hospital yesterday, a guy looked dead on the pavement about 50 metres from the hospital and was covered in a plastic sheet. I guess he gave up hope of being treated in the hospital and decided to save the crap medical treatment and die anyway. Sorry if this offends anyone, but it isn't good enough. But I am lucky enough to come from a country with a good health service, albeit at a price, and not everywhere can provide to that level.

Onwards...the plan was to go to Chor Bazaar. Got a taxi and was dropped off in an area that, to be honest, was the pits. Ugly, filthy and noxious smells every few metres. Then it began raining. We didn't find anything that looked interesting so jumped in a taxi to Malabar hill Hanging Gardens, the other side of town. Really pretty and some beautiful butterflies out today. A clear view of the Chowpatty bay area from one of the parks, plus a lovely little shoe house. Meant for children under 12yrs of age, but enough for Shiera to squeeze in.

Walked downhill along the Ridge road to the Waikeshwar Jain temple. On my last visit it was having some work done. This time it was clear. An interesting design with decorative doors throughout.

There is one thing that is an absolute must do in India, and that is to stuff your face with Kulfi. Got another taxi to the New Kulfi Centre on the Chowpatty beach road. Sorry to say that we had three plates of it, in different flavours, Pistacio, Mango, Blueberry...Yummeee....the rains stopped so we aimed across the road to walk on the beach. Seemed like a good idea....read on....As mentioned already, day 10 of the Ganpati festival culminates on Monday in a mass dipping of the Ganesh statues. Some people who cannot make Monday are already dipping their statues, so the place is a mess of reverie and coloured dye that they ritualistically scatter over themselves and everyone who passes. Whilst stood watching a group and their merriment, we noticed a plastic sheet on the beach with what looked like a body underneath it, apart from the extremities poking out. It's a statue one guy said as he passed us. Really? It looks realistic, although the arms and legs and face protruding from it were almost pure white. Suddenly police appeared and began clearing everyone away. It wasn't a statue...it was a real dead body. Our second in 24hrs! As the police uncovered it and lifted it into the back of a medical truck, the decomposed flesh became really clear. His extremities had turned white, and the rest beyond words. Enough description I think. Shiera was retching at this point. Couldn't look. All of this was going on amongst the most horrible filth imaginable on a beach. Groups of people were trying desperately to clear some of it away. I guess that most had collected during the festival, and they were clearing it ready for Monday. The stench was revolting. Seeing a dead body amongst this at a time when groups are celebrating their god is a paradox. At this stage Shiera was feeling ill and couldn't take anymore. 2 dead bodies in such a short space of time, and enough smells to make her want to vomit regularly. Sorry Mumbai, there is a lot needed to turn this city around. Taxi back to the hotel.

There were a few things I wanted to do before leaving Mumbai. First, was a meal at Leopold's café on Colaba Causeway. A bit of an institution amongst foreigners and locals alike. Not the cheapest for a meal, but great food and a nice atmosphere with a lively buzz.

Next was a ride on a horse and carriage. They used to run along Marine drive, but now run around the Gateway of India area, beginning outside the Taj Mahal hotel. We negotiated a ride for 200 rupees. Lasted about 10 minutes plus photo session afterwards. It depends on the driver and how hard you bargain. Either way, most of them do the same route, no matter what you pay. Really sweet and lovely to share it with Shiera. We are moving on tomorrow to Nasik, so had to head back to the hotel to pack up. Have managed to everything planned, so not bad, apart from the couple of mortals along the way and the hospital experience!

Bye for now folks

Goa

jeffbrad — Sun, 12 Sep 2010 21:04:00 GMT

Tuesday 7th September - We had to move out of the Indian Kitchen this morning as the price was too high, albeit for a larger room. Nothing cheaper available. Some places are prepared to negotiate, whilst others stay fixed and you just walk away. I have noticed that those which appear in the Lonely Planet are the worse at not budging sometimes. I think they have an inflated opinion about themselves, and think they have guaranteed business if they appear in the 'Traveler’s Bible'. Truth is that they are often also the worse at maintaining their businesses, and are often way behind what the book describes them. Others who are not in the guidebook have to set themselves up better to get the business, and are almost always better standard. The Baga Residency opposite offered us a room for 650 rupees including free wi-fi, which was effectively half the total price.

It rained heavily again this morning, but at least it gave us the opportunity to catch up. Posting photos, journals etc. After the rains stopped we got out to explore. Calangute beach was fairly deserted. The Arabian sea was throwing up strong swirling waves, making it too strong for most people, and life guards have been posted for safety. Finding some comfort food to make for ourselves in our room is easy enough with a handful of supermarkets dotted around the village. We even managed to find Shiera's favourite dessert Gulab Jamun. A bit too sweet, but she was asking how much for a kilo of it. Must find the recipe!

Well two things are relentless. The rain and the power failures. It threw it down through the night and carried on during the next day. Ok, we wanted a break. A rest. So this meant some catching up on the internet. As regular as can be annoying, the electricity failed. Last night we spent the evening in the dark until it came back about 12:30, just when we were about to doze off, the TV came on full volume and the fans and aircon joined it. Bad timing in one sense, but good timing in another. The cheese, biscuits and Bourneville drink we had bought earlier didn't go to waste. Went to bed finally, but on a bad food diet!

Power gone again as I write. I cannot believe why this part of Goa is this bad. Ok, it's the monsoon season. But why that should mean the power being this bad. They have plenty of experience at this weather pattern and should have done something to make sure it can cope. Well, that's the logic in the west, but maybe not here.

Made a visit into Panaji (AKA Panjim) and was impressed by it. An easy enough place to do on foot. Some great food options and struck lucky in finding our favourite desserts of Basundi and Rasmalai. Not great for health, but great for the soul! I knew about the casino boats that sailed around the Mandovi river, but was surprised at how many there were for this time of year. Lit up in the dark and floating around the waters with their captive audience.

Back at the hotel and the power was up and down again for the evening. Why does the power fail when you get to that important scene in a movie when the story is just about to become clear, or the most exciting bit? Murphy's law I guess!

The next day was a brighter day. The sun came out for first time since we arrived, so we walked the beach up to Baga. The entire area is a building site. There is nothing more off-putting that wanting to have a nice relaxing meal surrounded by tarpaulins, crashing and banging, and the whole range of construction noises. It is understandable though, as this is their downtime before the peak season begins, so they are all working to update and repair. The choice for lunch was more based on the level of noise rather than what food they were serving.

The following day was a busy day out. Visited Old Goa (Rs8 bus from the Kadamba Bus stand). It is a fairly compact area mainly around the Bom Jesus church and the Se se Cathedral. Francis Xavier's remains are displayed in an elevated ornate casket in the church. We returned to Panaji and headed for the cinema on 18th June street. The movie Dabbam was in Hindi, so could hardly understand a single word of it. It doesn't matter as the plot was the usual cheesy fun action interjected with plenty of singing and Bollywood style dance.

One of the best breakfasts we have found is at the Bar Eclipse on the main Baga road. Understandable considering the owners are both English. Yep, they know what the customer wants. We had their breakfast everyday once we had discovered it.

One of the necessities was to plan our route out of Goa up to Mumbai. Sounds easy, but getting train tickets for when we wanted proved to be tricky. We had been advised by the hotel to take our passports to the Konkan rail booking office at the Kadamba bus stand in Panaji to get our foreigner quota tickets. Turned out that they wouldn’t let us book them as the train originated from Madgaon and we would have to go there to book instead. Wasn’t in the mood to go all the way there just to book tickets and it seems crazy that they wouldn’t do it. Why make foreigners go all the way to a station a long way from anywhere just to book your tickets? Anyway, had to change plan.

The journal is a bit shorter this time. Save's anyone falling asleep like the usual epic.

Bye for now.

Mysore to Goa

jeffbrad — Wed, 8 Sep 2010 15:00:00 GMT

Tuesday 31st August - Today we move on to Hampi in the northern part of Karnataka state. This involves going to Bengalaru (formerly Bangalore) to take an overnight sleeper train. To ease the journey we decided to take the train from Mysore to Bengalaru instead of bus. But first I needed to get my guitar case strap repaired as it had ripped. One thing is certain in India, you can get anything repaired while you wait for cheap. Found a nice tailor/repair shop who re-modelled it in leather and made it stronger than the original in about 10 minutes, complete with a cup of chai while i waited.

Tried to get some cash in town before heading to the station but out of luck with finding an ATM with cash. No problem i thought, there will be one at the station. Got there by auto. First one not working. Second one took my card, made plenty of whirring noises and then issues me with 500 rupees instead of the 10,000 i had requested, and didn't give me a printed receipt, before returning my card with some error code. Oh no, here we go...wasn't sure if it had done something wrong with my account. Tried a few more ATMs with no success. All gave error codes and no cash. Eventually i found one that worked. Panic over. Just have to hope my account is safe. Last time i came to India, i had a machine in Varanasi take money from my account without giving me any. Went to the bank and saw a manager. After a very long time of them agreeing it was their error, and promising to re-credit it, they never did. Despite many calls and e-mails to them. Some even after i had left the country. I had to give up eventually, so lost the money. That is why i am always nervous with Indian ATMs if something goes wrong. It is so difficult to resolve it.

A while to wait for our train, so time to watch other trains get prepared, and have some lunch. On the many train journeys i have taken in India, i have often been sceptical about one of the procedures they have. You book your ticket, which has your seat details on it. But they still paste a printed sheet to the outside of the train with the allocation details. Someone comes along and sticks the printed sheet on the train. Another person comes along and has to remove the old one. Labour intensive...why do they bother? No other country does this with their trains. Seeing as you have a ticket with the details, and the carriages are clearly marked. Why not save the effort? Job creation? Lack of confidence in their ticket system? Maybe it's because Indian people cannot understand the ticket they have been given. If that was the case, why not just make the ticket clearer? It seems fine to me. But then again, I'm not Indian. They even have digital displays on the platform next to each carriage at most stations which have the details on it, so you cannot or should not get on the wrong carriage.

Train 6232 (Mayiladuthurai Express) arrived at about 3pm and departed Mysore at 3:45pm and taking 3hours. The last section as it crawls into Bengalaru is a bit of a sight. Massive mounds of rubbish flanking the track. Young children, some only babies playing on top and messing with the squalid filth. A short way from them, pigs sniff through for a meal. Horses with nose bags on feed alongside the track. Someone in the center of a refuse sight lights a fire under a cauldron to cook dinner. On top of another mound a popcorn stand offers snacks for the children. Unaware possibly of the revolting stench that hung in the air, making us wretch from the safe distance of the train. Behind that terrible scene, a road. Along that road some very artisticly designed apartments, all gayly coloured and smartly fitted out inside. The contrast is vast. The different worlds, so much unalike. Welcome to Bangalore...Bengalaru as it is confusingly now called. Almost all signs still read Bangalore. Why the change in name? Must find out.

Fortunately, there is a good restaurant at the end of the gantry that links all the platforms. Nice meal before boarding the train at 8pm. Why does a good restaurant only have one bad toilet for the whole place, and you cannot breathe when you go in?

Train 6592 Hampi Express departing Bengalaru at 9:00pm and arriving at 06:47 at Hospet, the nearest town to Hampi.

We had an Indian family in the berths surrounding us. They had not one, but two babies with them. That is a perfect recipe for a sleepless night. We had the two upper berths...right under the aircon. Cryogenic freezing plus the potential thought of crying babies....wonderful :-)

Turned out that my telepathic thought transfer to them to stay quiet paid off...smart kids!

The magic bed fiairy didn't come to this train like with some. So after the bedding guy delivered the two sheets, 1 pillow and a blanket, we had to make our own beds. The gently roll of the train started and the rumble from the tracks sent us off to sleep. The occasional murmur threatened of a restless baby. The blow from the aircon masked most noises.

Wednesday 1st September - On arrival in Hospet at 7am we caught an auto to Hampi for Rs100. The immediate town doesn't grab you. It seems functional and typical. The road to Hampi is an interesting one. You quickly get a glimpse of the landscape that Hampi is famous for. Soft edged boulders balance precariously over an open landscape. Ruins are frequent and the local transport is bullock drawn carts with many of the drivers stood up, rodeo style. We passed a lotus flower inspired mosque with pretty colourful minaret. Worthy of a return visit. Apparently it is only a year old.

A fee of Rs10 is charged for vehicle access to Hampi Bazaar, the small compact main village where we are staying. Didn't look around much for accommodation and aimed for Vicky's. Rs400 with hot shower. Checked in and straight to bed to catch up on sleep. Both shattered.

We had made the decision to extend our stay in Hampi until Monday. This meant changing our onward train ticket. They overcharge a lot in the agents in Hampi, and it is cheap to go to Hospet and do it ourselves, so went back to the railway station. Instead of being charged nearly 300 rupees for the cancellation and re-booking in Hampi, it only cost 20 rupees at the station plus return bus journey of Rs26 each way for the two of us. The bus went a different route to this morning's auto which went through more awesome terrain.

After returning to Hampi we went walkabout down to the eastern ghats area. Luckily, there was a Lamani people's Pooja taking place. The Lamani ladies dress in an amazing colourful costume with much jewellery to adorn themselves. Flags were part of the ceremony with the Brahmins floating candles on the river following annointment of the pilgrims.

In the same location they had round coracle boats for a short trip on the river. Fairly unique in India, they range from a couple of metres diameter to about four. Made of woven wooden slats and covered in material painted with bitumen. Very entertaining. The boys who ran our corale were very streetwise, as are most here. They grow up learning to handle a multinational crowd of foreigners, mastering techniques to get extra cash out of you. Postcards, tour guiding, accommodation, the coracle, renting anything from bicycle to car. At barely 10 or 12 years of age, they seem older than their years.

The waterfront path allows access to one of the important heritage ruin areas which we explored for a couple of hours.

One of my favourite eateries from my last visit, is the Mango tree restaurant. Perfect for sunset dinner and drinks. Accessed along a banana plantation path, it is a lovely location and, guess what? It is built around a mango tree! Paved seated areas face the water with low tables and lanterns. Just perfect. Great food too.

Spent some time looking at other accommodation for the next few days. Some are just dire. For Rs100, they are disgusting. For Rs400 it gets better. Above Rs500 they are better

Thursday 2nd Sep - Having checked around other places last night we decided to move location to get a bigger room at Rocky's. Still Rs400, but more comfortable.

One of the disturbing sights in the village is young Children 'depositing' in the street along with the Cows and goats. Their parents seem oblivious to it and don't stop them or toilet train them. The streets get washed down each day so it does get cleared, but it is the principle of it.

Opposite to Rocky's is a children's trust. I will find out more about how it operates and let you know later.

Hampi and its surrounding area are amazing. Like no other place on earth. Round boulders mounded high across the landscape, interspersed with wonderful stone buildings many centuries old. They cleaved large rocks to make smaller ones for the construction, with much evidence of the technique visible. The manpower that it must have taken to build some of the buildings must have been incredible. Hampi village and Bazaar surrounds the Virupaksha temple, which dominates the landscape from most high viewpoints.

Above the village is Hemakuta Hill. It is a perfect place to see the sun set. Monkeys appeared and seem to make a pilgrimage to the sun on some of the highest rocks. Staring into the sun as it set. The photo opportunities are wonderful from there.

We had chatted with an Indian lady living in Austria earlier in the day and agreed to meet up for dinner at Gopi's with her husband. They had only been married for 1 month, so were on their honeymoon too. A nice relaxed evening.

Friday 3rd Sep - Tried to get across river to Virupapur Gaddi but boats not running due to high water. Wanted to get to Anegundi and Hanuman temple which stands on top of Anjanadri Hill. Rickshaw driver was asking 1,100 Rupees for the journey as it is 50km. An alternative was to try and get to the coracle crossing. Took a but to Kamalapurum (Rs5) and found that no buses were running from there. It was suggested to take a rickshaw which we got for Rs50. Problem was that there were no coracles operating as the water was both too high and too fast flowing. I remembered getting to this point last time i came. There was a bridge here, which was almost complete with only a few metres gap to finish. Unesco had got the project stopped as it would attract too much traffic to the area and ruin its ruins so to speak! The irony is that about year ago, half of the new 'uncompleted' bridge collapsed and got washed away. I guess it was never meant to be. What it does mean, is that the northern side of the Tungabhadra river is isolated unless boats cross it, cutting off some major historical sights. Unless you want to go the very long way around. There are some coracles crossing from other places, but they apparently won't take tourists, on the basis that it is too risky. So only locals can cross. I guess that the tourism authorities have decided that an operator gaining 10 rupees to get a foreigner across to the other side, versus its high probability of sinking or getting washed downstream, isn't worth the risk. It wouldn't be good press would it!

We met a Spanish couple who were attempting the same crossing, so we walked back together. Seems that many people we meet have had to change plans for one reason or another due to weather problems at this time of year. Monsoon season is always a higher risk, but so far not that bad for us.

What it has also meant here is that much of the tourism business that crossed the river to stay on the other side of the river, has been forced to stay in Hampi instead, so the guest houses and restaurants are happy about that.

Was out for a walk after a great meal at the Prince restaurant, and stopped to chat to a guy who ran a music shop. Went in for a quick jam and was invited to play guitar at Durga rooftop Restaurant. Was a bit funny as the power kept failing. Could hear cymbals and chanting from the temple as i played. Why is there always someone who asks if you play Jimi Handrix watchtower? Especially when they look like they are on drugs, or never emerged from a coma in the 1970s?

Saturday 4th Sep - Rented bicycles from a shop in the bazaar for 30 rupees. Brand new cycle which was great...meant that I had no excuse in blaming the cycle for not making the hills! I reckon I am getting unfit. It did get easier as the day went on, then the gear chain kept coming off so it seemed like a good idea to head back to the shop and change the bike.

Whilst we were out we took a diversion through a really sweet village and ended up at a clearing where a guy navigated us to the waterfalls. I gave him a tip for his time. Not really necessary to have a guide as the path through the banana plantations was well worn, so you could work it out. The nice thing about going by bicycle is that you can stop when you want, and the slow pace means you can catch interesting sights easier than if you whizz past on a motorbike. Women washing by the streams. People having Prassad on ghats. A few children that spend their days fishing in the streams that do not go to school. Small temples almost hidden. One of the common events is groups of children running out and following whilst they call that familiar tune...'Give me pen'...or 'Give me one rupee'. We must have heard that a hundred times in the past day or so. They have gorgeous smiles that light up their little faces. You cannot help but smile with them.

I was reading an article this morning about the Hampi Children's Trust, located opposite to where we are staying. Titled...Giving something back to the Ancient city of Hampi and its people. A non-profit making organisation, founded by Kali Das (from Hampi) and Tim Brown (from the UK) in May 2007. It basically provides an education to the 4 to 16 year old children of Hampi who do not normally get an education. Primarily because their parents do not send them to school, preferring to have them out on the streets begging instead. They have school uniforms and are given three meals a day, 6 days a week. It is a very worthwhile project. (Anyone wanting to volunteer or be involved can go through www.hampichildrenstrust.org or timhampi2006@yahoo.co.uk).

Sunday 5th Sept - Ahhh...a day of rest. Reading, lazing. A little shopping as there are some nice stores here that do 'Hippie' clothes. Just the thing for travellers. Gotta look like you have emerged from the 60's and missed out a few generations of clothing style revolution! You an spot the travellers, not just because we look foreign, but beause we are wearing either Alibaba pants, Happy pants, stripey everything, and many covered in tattoos and face jewellery. Some do go proper Indian style, but not so many.

Back up to Hemakuta Hill for sunset. Before sunset we had a little entertainment. It started to rain, so we had to take shelter in an old stone temple for a while. For the whole time we were there a female dog...the bitch....was systematically made use of by almost every male dog in the area. They were fighting over her. Didn't know where to look! Seemed to have a nonchalant look on her face the whole time...same time same place tomorrow night boys!

Dinner at Durga huts restaurant again. I have to say that is seems to be the best food in the whole village. The chef is from Nepal. They employed him beause Indian chefs keep disappearing, to visit family, to do their prayer rituals. Just about any reason they can find. On many occasions they had customers and no chef, so they got the Nepalese guy in and haven't looked back. He did the food exactly as we wanted it.

Monday 6th September - We move on to Goa today. The only trains are early ones and we were booked on to the 7063 departing at 06:30 costing Rs176 for 3AC class. The only way from Hampi at time in the morning is by Autorickshaw, which we pre-booked the night before. Up early and collected at 5:15am. Still dark. The roads were empty apart from a stream of bullock carts and passengers. We guessed that many or possibly all homes dlo not have a toilet. The common sight of someone squatting at the side of the road, or in a field with a small jug of water next to them is common. I wonder about the distinction between animal and human sometimes. This was be classed as vulgar or discgusting in our culture. Here, it is accepted. The cows do it. The dogs do it. The chickens etc do it. So what is wrong with humans doing it? Progress, cultural values, signs of differentiating ourselves from animals. It is like spitting. The all too ommon sound of someone clearing their throat. Men and women do it. It is revolting to hear. Revolting to see. So why do we not do it in our countries? A person would be thought of as disgusting if they did it. Here it is too common. Urinating in the street, almost anywhere the need arises. Makes for a society which not only looks a mess, but smells like an open air toilet. Is that what people in these places aspire to? Is this how they would like their children to behave in future generations? If not, then set an example now, and stop doing it. Develop some cultural values that show progress from the animalistic caveman days. It also shows that these people have no pride in their environment. There are signs everywhere requesting people to keep their town or city clean. And yet, some of these signs are surrounded by rubbish tips, and even people urinating by them. I have seen it. can they not read? Maybe a lack of education means they cannot read the signs. If that was the case, then who are the signs aimed at? Certainly not the educated ones who can read, who are least likely to foul the place anyway. Anyway...rant over for now....

Arriving at Hospet junction station was a bit quieter than when we arriived. Many folk were already there, some sleeping on the floors and the platforms. The stench is foul, but people don't seem to care where they lay down. Most of the public toilets are so badly maintained and make you ill just going near them, that it is no surprise sometimes. Sorry, I'm ranting again. Shiera wanted to puke the small was so strong on the platform. In fact someone had vomited by one of the seating areas. A lady had spread her food out on the floor amongst this. Her baby needed the toilet, so she jumped down onto the track and sorted the baby out. Good job a train wasn't coming yet! Whilst she was doing that, a dog came and urinated on her food. Served her right for putting it on the floor. I just hoped she didn't still eat it. The thought of it. Couldn't look, so didn't find out. She probably fed it to the baby!

Couldn't find our train on the list, but wrked out that it is in fact train 8047 the Amaravati Express to Vasco da Gama. It was actually running a little late as it comes a long way, from Howrah juntion near to Calcutta. As expected, a really long train. When it pulled onto the platform, we looked out for our carriage but couldn't find it. We were in S11. S1, S2, S3 etc up to S10 then Second class. No S11. Turned out that ours was right at the end of the train. S11 does not come after S10. Set into a sprint and found it. At 7am the train pulled away on our 8 1/2 hour journey. This was the same train i think i took the last time i went between Hampi and Goa, around 3 years ago. I remember the scenery being nice in the latter stages of the journey, so was looking forward to that.

The train ambled along and made stops at Hubli, Gadag, Dharwad, Londa, before leaving Karnataka. Each stop, an opportunity for Chai, Biryani or other snack.

Occupying time on a long train journey is an artform. Today's task was to begin putting some ideas on paper for a future home. No idea where it is yet, or even which country. But we do have ideas of what we want, and aim to build our own home to our own design. It is just a case of finding the place to buy some land. We also know that we want to have a homestay and some craft business included, so we need space for a studio and extra space for the guest lodgings. The cost of the land is a prime factor of course, and that varies widely from country to country, and from one plot to another. The legalities within each country is a key factor too. Some i can own land, others i cannot. Weather conditions, ground conditions, access to water, drainage and electricity utilities are important as are telecoms for internet. Many factors are important, but the house will remain more or less the same. So at least we may as well work out our dream home whilst the ideas are forming. The basis for our design is the Chinese Ying-Yang shape. Lots of curves, plenty of natural light and open spaces. With water features figuring in the design, both inside and out. We also want to search for a large tree as an extension to the main house, connected by rope bridge as a tree house lounge area. The main idea is that it must look native in style. The ideas are fun to work on.

We reached Castlerock station, which i think was the first stop in Goa, but not sure, at noon. Then the rain started. As wemoved westwards into Goa the views were a little marred by the rain induced mist. On times when it cleared the view is really nice, and a reminder that entering Goa is a different terrain to that part of Karnataka we have just come from. A few long tunnels cause amusement as the kids screamed at full volume in the darkness. Kids the whole world never change!

Back into the open and beautiful deep valleys clad in dense forest. The first major landmark in Goa is the Dudh Sagar waterfalls. India's 2nd highest at 603m. The view from the train was really clear although many tries to scramble for the doors where the view is a bit limited. They can be reached on an organised tour, but after seeing them from the train, we don't feel the need.

The rains kept on pelting down. That is why Goa is so green! And the Chai sellers keep coming. That is why we keep on needing the toilet!

We arrived in Vasco Da Gama in the dry after deciding not to get off at Madgaon due to the heavy rain. A long way from exiting the train to actually exiting the station. The hoard of taxi drivers, rickshaw drivers and any other form of driver, was overpowering. Like a mad scrum. I got a little annoyed with some of them who insisted on circling us and getting in the way of moving. Asking over 800 rupees to go anywhere near where we wanted. Even the rickshaw drivers wanted 450 rupees. No way. We worked our way out of the melee and aied for a local bus to Panaji. Turned out that we first needed to catch a local bus across to the main bus stand for Rs10 and then a Panaji bus for a further Rs20. A nice route through green forest and following the waterline for most of it. At Panaji we got straight onto another bus to Candolim for 20Rs each. Total so far was Rs100 for the two of us, not Rs800. The fun then started. We checked around Candolim and came to the onclusion that it was dead. Many of the guest houses and hotels were closed, and refurbishing during the off season. Most restaurants were closed, other than in the real busy centre where we didn't want to stay. Decision time. Get out of there and aim north to Calangute before it got too dark. As we were tired and didn't have much energy left for walking around room searching. We jumped in a taxi for Rs100 to ferry us around some places. Ended up in an apartment at the Indian Kitchen for the night. Not the cheapest at 1000Rs plus tax, but has a pool and wi-fi, although they charge Rs100 per day to use it.

Dinner was good there, and our first meat in a while, seeing as most if not all of Karnataka and Kerala are vegetarian. Some menus had 'Huhn' on it...Chicken. But they didn't actually have any available. Now that we are in Goa, it is back to Carnivorous land and the joys of meat and fish.

No hanging around as we had to find both other options for places to stay, but with a kitchen, and also some cereals and foods for breakfast. Almost no decent provisions stores around town, as I guess they only cater for people who eat out all the time. Asking for a place with a kitchen proved to be tricky too. Why would anyone want a kitchen? Possibly 1,500 rupees a night was the best, and almost only place we could find. No internet at the rooms, only net café on the street.

The room at the Indian kitchen is referred to as an 'Apartment', but has no cooking facilities, only a fridge and a sink. So, exactly what are you supposed to with that then? At least it is bigger than a normal room.

Shattered after a very long day, rising at 4:15am this morning in Hampi, and finishing at nearly 11pm in Calangute in Goa. It has been wearing. The fourth Indian state on the Indian leg of our epic journey. Tomorrow will be a sorting day and deciding on the plan over the next couple of weeks. More of that in the next posting.

Kochi to Mysore

jeffbrad — Mon, 30 Aug 2010 18:56:00 GMT

Tuesday 24th August - Today we move on from Kochi to Coimbatore. This will be an overnight stopover for the early morning train up to Ooty. More on that later.

We managed to ship our purchases to date off to the Philippines. That is an exercise in itself. We had gathered over 13kg of items, from spices to lanterns to cushion covers. India has a policy of cloth wrapping for its international packages, so we had to go to a wrapping service this morning. First the box had to be made from a collection of cardboard boxes, which was then tied with string and taped up. They then make a bag out of cloth which is sown up to form a tight fit. The joints are then sealed with wax and the address details written in marker pen onto the cloth. It is time consuming and cost only 150 rupees. Nothing compared with the 2780 rupees for the airmail postage cost. This is the most expensive postage cost i have ever had to pay. More expensive than the cost of the contents. Lesson learnt there I think!

That sorted we checked out of the Chennatt Homes and headed for the ferry terminal. It is possible to get to Ernakulam by bus, but it makes a change to take the ferry, which leaves from next to the Seagull hotel, costing 2.5 rupees and taking about 20 minutes for the crossing. They leave often enough too. As if the walk to the port with our luggage didn't make me wet enough with sweat, the rain began and we got an extra soaking. Shame as it was now misty so couldn't see much on the crossing. Took an autorickshaw to the KSRTC bus station and had a while until the bus to Coimbatore was due to arrive. The guy in the ticket office said it would arrive at 1pm, so we had plenty of time to buy some food for the journey. At 12:40 the bus arrived, and by 12:50 it had left...fortunately with us on board. You cannot trust the timing you are told!

Getting out of Ernakulam was a bit smelly, as the bus had to crawl behind a rubbish truck for a while. We were ready to puke when luckily he got a break and overtook it. Pheww...

Rs131 and about 5 1/2 hours on the road with a few stops on the way at non-descript bus stations and towns. When we finally arrived at Coimbatore, it was crazy and dark. There was no way i felt like staying there, and the train leaves here at 5:15am in the morning, Plus we would have to be up even earlier to get to the station and buy tickets. Decided to head straight for Mettupalayam. That sounded easy. Unfortunately, the buses going there go from the new bus station. Another bus ride across town on bus 150 for Rs5. The traffic was nuts. We were very hungry by this stage, having not had much o eat all day. Thinking there would be food at the new bus station, we joined the scrum to fight our way onto bus 150 along with a hundred other bodies. A pain when you are carrying luggage. Bad decision...the new bus stand has no food...absolutely zero. To top it off, the first bus to Mettupalayam had space then kicked us off because we had luggage. The next bus wouldn't let us on with luggage..and the next. I was getting angry by this stage, and got annoyed with a group who thought it was funny. Nope it wasn't. Fortunately, a kind person came to the rescue and we made the next bus. Be aware that the private buses won't allow luggage, only the government ones. The time, nearly 8pm. Tired and hungry. Cheap fare at Rs11 for the 90 minute journey.

There was almost no break in the traffic between Coimbatore and Mettupalayam, as it follows the national highway. Honk honk goes the traffic as if it will make a difference. It doesn't, as everyone does the same, so it gets ignored.

Arrived at Mettupalayam in the rain and chaos. Fortunatley, it didn't take long to find somewhere to stay, at the Welcome Inn for Rs350. Nothing flash but ok. Next door was the Sri Annapoorna veg restaurant. Initially they said most things were finished as they were closing, but they agreed to do us something. We ended up ordering too much as we were over-hungry but couldn't eat it. They wrapped the leftovers up for us and we gave it to a beggar on the street. He smelled of alcohol, so at least he wasn't going to beg and drink on an empty stomach!

Stocked up with food for tomorrow's train journey at a store across the road, and went back for a much needed shower. It amazes me how much dirt you can gather on your skin and under your nails by just riding a few buses here. My skin changed colour after a shower. I knew i was whiter under that dirt!

Wednesday 25th Aug - At 3am in the morning a siren went off nearby. Have no idea why other than an alarm clock for the Muslims to get up for prayers? Managed to doze off again and woke abruptly again when my rooster alarm clock went of at 5:30am. Dressed and out quick to head for the train station about 5 minutes walk away.

To get a ticket for the train, the procedure supposed to be to go to the station master's office to get a token for the train as he knows what seating space is left, but i went direct to the ticket office instead and he wrang the station officer to get authorisation to issue me with tickets. At only 8 rupees each, it must rate as the cheapest train journey in India. After collecting the tickets we had to join a queue on the narrow gauge platform. Already had many dozens of passengers waiting in line. It is classed as a 'wait-listed/non-reservation' queue. For passengers that arrive on the main Nilgiri express train coming from Coimbatore, if they have a through ticket to Ooty then they are allowed to board the toy train first. Once in, then the wait-listed queue is allowed to board, a few at a time. The station staff have a tricky job of getting the carriages full and taking the hassle from passengers who complain about their seating. Some ladies got on who had no ticket and were just told to turn up, so it isn't essential, especially if you are a foreigner. Luggage can be stored on racks in the carriage immediately after the engine compartment, so we avoided too much discomfort. The carriages were full, with little space to move. A crazy group of guys sitting behind us promised for an entertaining journey. The engine puffed steam and tooted its horn as it prepared for setting off. Engineers went arond doing their final oiling of the rolling stock. The engine needed to build up pressure before setting off.

At 7:15am train 662 set off on our wonderful little steam train driven journey. Slowww...the pace was like the other toy trains journeys on my last visit. Pretty, and slow paced. Our carriage was shared with a couple of ladies from Australia, another lady from New Zealand, and a group of Kerala lads on vacation.

The Swiss built Nilgiri train runs on 1metre track and was completed in 1903. The 46km journey is the steepest climb in Asia, needing a rack and pinion system between the rails for the train to climb on for the section up to Coonoor. With the final height at Ooty of 2,600m. At an average speed of 10.4km/hr, it is the slowest in India.

The first stop was at Kallar at 7:40am. Only a few minutes, so didn't get off.

The next stop was at Adderley view point under an hour away. It gave us chance to take photos of the train and stretch our legs.

Third stop at Hillgrove station was a food stop for Bhaji and Samosas plus the standard coffee and chai and a nice view of the tea plantations. Many of the monkeys roaming around were diseased. Not sure why.

Fourth stop at Runnymede for more tea plantation views. A group of four teenagers joined our carriage this time. With no space left, they had to stand. Now things got nuts. The guys started singing and going crazy. Funny, and what makes train travel in India such a great experience. Something always happens to add flavour to the journey. On with the chanting. Sounded tribal almost...the Indian equivalent of the Hakka. A brief passage through the lovely named Lovedale station.

The longest stop was at the next station of Coonoor. We learnt from the guys in our carriage that, apparently, the Onam festival in Kerala has a main day on the 4th day when they do the Tiger dance, which happens to be tomorrow. One guy in the carriage had some photos of folks painted like animals in Thrissur. Could have stopped there had we known about it.

Our next to last stop was Kateri. Set in a nice location.

As if by accident we rolled into Udhagamandalam, the summer capital of the Chennai government established by the British...AKA Ooty (No surprises why it gets an abbreviated name is it!) at 11:45am as a surprise.

Slightly drizzling and cold. The mobs of taxi and rickshaw drivers as we exited the station was a bit much. Got clear of it before deciding what to do next. Arranged with an auto driver to take us to place on our list. After checking a few places we settled on the Sweekar Hotel. Run by a really nice Indian gentleman. Friendly and at only Rs350 is good value.

A menu was available at Sweekar which is delivered by courier service from town. Really nice Hyderabadi and Mughalai curries. Just what we needed as we hadn't really had a proper meal today. Fed and rejuvenated, we headed out for a walk to explore. Well, we both had to agree that much of Ooty is a mess. Not one of our favourite places. We had read that some people like its charm. We couldn't find it where we went. Right now it is undergoing major works by the exit to the bus station and everywhere is like a quagmire. There seems to be really horrible habit of guys using almost everywhere as a toilet. The stench of urine in many of the narrow alleys is overpowering and disgusting.

We went to the boating lake (entry Rs5) and spent 30 minutes riding a pedalo (Rs80). Maybe we were too tired after not much sleep, or maybe we are just unfit? Either way, we were worn out and half and hour was enough for us.

Across the road is the rather interesting 'Thread Garden'. All of the plants have been wired and wound with thread, which had been built over 12 years. It is a bit dark inside, and the displays are a bit old, dusty and less than lively looking.

After a further hour wandering around the town we came to the firm conclusion that we weren't goin't to stay more than one night, and we would head for Mysore tomorrow.

Back to the lodge for a nice cup of chai and rest up for a while. There had to be more to ooty than we had already seen, so headed towards the main market along racecourse road. Sure enough there is more to this place. Spent a couple of hours around the commercial area and had a nice meal at the kebab house followed by a nice coffee at the Batista cafe, the smartest cafe in town, before catching an auto back to the lodge. Ok, we admit that our early impression formed by going the boathouse direction was a bit soon, bit it isn't as we expected on that side of town. It does get better!

Thursday 26th - To make a change from government buses, we booked a minibus to Mysore for 4:30pm this afternoon costing 150 rupees each. Should only take 4 hours compared with 5 1/2 on the bus. This gave us plenty of time during the day to fit in some extra sights.

First stop was St Stephen's Church on the hill above town, which was built in 1829. Not too exciting but a nice building. An eerie overgrown cemetary behind it was the final accommodation for some of the brits who founded this area.

Moved on to the Botanical Gardens (Rs20 entrance plus Rs30 camera fee). This is something that annoys me about India...the stupid camera fee. Even worse if you should want to take video. Hardly any other country on the planet charges this. And what a scam it is. Costs more than the entrance fee too. That said, the gardens are nice. Very reminiscent of the UK as the climate is similar. A high proportion of the plants, trees and shrubs are available in the UK too. A fossilised tree trunk believed to by over 20 million years old makes an unusual feature. Worth passing an hour or two.

We had to check out of the lodge so took an auto back there. Noticed on the way that we passed a cinema, the Assembly rooms theatre, which was showing the English movie 'Salt' with Angelina Jolie. We saw it in Penang back in July.

Ordered another excellent takeaway at the lodge. The courier they are using is really good quality food. Hopefully, we shouldn't need to eat for the rest of the day.

The minibus arrived late and we boarded along with 2 other travellers. No space inside, so all luggage had to go on the roof. We got as far as the bus station at the bottom of the hill in town and the driver stopped and got out, along with the guy in charge. After 20 minutes we all began to get annoyed. No sign of them and running even later. Arguments broke out when he returned and it turned out that some more passengers were late, so they were waiting. After over an hour from when we were supposed to set off tempers were frayed, but we finally got away...to stop again less than 5 minutes down the road to collect more passengers. Considering that we chose this option to shorten the journey and have a bit more comfort, we were squashed with no leg room, much later than we had hoped and our luggage on the roof with the rain pouring down. And it cost significantly more than a normal bus. Anyway...

The driver put his foot down and was possessed after that. The route went through the national park. No wonder that the animals are nowhere to be seen. With a highway thundering through it...honking horns and revving engines...the poor timid animals have all run for cover and more remote areas. One of the passengers at the front of the bus claimed to have seen elephants in the dark. We didn't see anything, but then again our view wasn't that good.

Hurtling around every bend and a music DVD belting out thumping Indian pop, it was the least relaxing way to get to Mysore. Got to the point that Shiera was feeling ill and i wasn't too good either. Had to ask for the thump to be switched off.

During the journey we changed state, from Tamil-Nadu to Karnataka. The road evened out after a while and they broke for a chai break for 10 minutes before continuing. We got into Mysore at nearly 10pm. Tired!

Straight into an auto and picked the first reasonable sounding place at the Hotel Dasaprakash at Ghandi square for 541Rs per night in a less than sparkling room. A promise of warm water for a shower at 5am. Until then, cold only.

We tried to go out and find something to drink, but by this time everywhere was closed. The hotel couldn't offer anything either. What we did find on our walkabout was a better hotel, the Bombay Tiffany, a couple of minutes away. Put our name down for a room and will move tomorrow.

Friday 27th - Had breakfast in the Dasaprakash restaurant. Only indian on offer. Dosa and the usual daal, sambal etc and a sweet coffee. Then checked out and went to the Bombay Tiffany Lodge where we had reserved a room last night. Much cleaner, with TV hot shower and much quieter. Delux room for 500 plus tax. Spoke good English and were helpful with answering any questions. They also have a room delivery service for a fairly good menu.

Off to the railway station to book our tickets to Hampi for 31st August from Bangalore and the connecting train from Mysore. A day later than planned as the train was full, but it is ok. An easy enough booking system and a separate queue for paying by credit card. However, nobody in the queue was allowed to use their card, with some excuse that none of us could understand, so had to use cash anyway.

Next, a visit to an Incense stick maker who was making upto 6000 a day. They wanted 400 rupees for a bunch of around 60 sticks, which you can get from the market for 30 rupees. Of course they told us that everyone else were poorer alternatives, or fake, or diluted. Oils were also way to expensive too. The usual gambit from these places is to try to get some business, and if you don't buy then they get a little abusive. All we did was visit the place to see them making the sticks, and they ended up being both sarcastic and mildly abusive that we shouldn't go to these places if we weren't prepared to buy something. All Indian's would buy something was his final statement, and he muttered abuse at us as we left. Totally uncalled for.

Passed through the Cauvery crafts store. They have some awesome carved and inlaid rosewood furniture items, which would be on our list for the future when we have a home. Indrah cafe for lunch and a mixed veg thali. Excellent stuff!

Then across the road to the Devaraja market. The Devaraja market is one of those great places to see mounds of technicoloured kum-kum powder, beautiful aromas from the myriad of flower sellers and garland makers, and some of the best fruit and vegetables around. Plenty of hidden agendas going on...most who talk to you want something...either visit their shop, have them as a guide, etc etc. It is easy to get sceptical about human philanthropy after a while in some places. Almost Nobody the whole day who talked to us didn't try to cajole us into something they wanted to offer. Smile, accept it and move on whilst trying to shed their attentions. IT is a fun game after a while.

Found a Beer and booze shop, which are surprisingly frequent here. Another big surprise when we found the 'More Megastore' Supermarket (Narayana Shastri road). Yippee...cereals and some comforts. Makes our stay here a little easier, as we an now do our own breakfasts. Bought a small water heater for our travelling kit for 60 rupees, so we don't have to worry about finding someone to boil us some water.

In the evening we dressed up and aimed for the Maharaja's palace. Shiera was looking beautiful in her Punjabi suit.

The main entrance is also the way in to the Sri Shveta Varahashwari temple....the guy on the entrance said...you can come in...can i have tips? Here we go again. They scowl when you ignore them or refuse. However, we were so lucky. Only on Fridays do they perform the ritual we saw. They make a Palanquin covered in flowers, which is a covered carriage, to carry the shrine's nose or something like that from one building to it's new home in another building. Accompanied by a small band. It's Hindu and complicated, and trying to follow what was happening isn't easy. After the ceremony, everyone, including us, were invited to sit down and take Prassad. Sat in rows, men on one side, ladies opposite, they gave us a banana leaf, followed by the first course of a deliciously sweet mixture. Fingers only. Next was a rice mixture with currants, nuts, cinnamon and other things. Delicious!

Continuing around the perimeter of the palace we stopped to take photos by the entrance facing the palace. The most beautiful view, but not open to the public. Guards came to try and stop us from taking photos. As usual, he then decided it was ok to come closer....you from UK? Yes...you can come closer. Nobody else allowed here...got to the gate...no further he then announced.....ok...you can come inside....How about a tip...I take any curreny....pounds...dollars....i even take rupees!Everyone is on the make aren't they!

Mysore has a Pizza restaurant! The Pizza Corner. Some nice Indian alternatives to a standard pizza place. It has been a long day, so caught a rickshaw back. Legs didn't have enough energy.

Saturday 28th August - The Maharaja's Palace in the morning. Rs200 foreigner (Rs20 Indian). Not allowed to take photos inside the palace, so have to deposit cameras in a security room (Rs5 each camera). No shoes, so they are left at a shoe stand. The palace is the second to be located here, the current one being of British design by Henry Irwin. The interior is stunning. Just as a palace should be. Wonderful stained glass dome ceiling with peacock design. The main hall and function rooms upstairs are abeautiful turquoise scalloped arch design, and stained glass elongated roof. Tiled floors complement it to make an elaborately ostentatious building.

When we were at the Dasaprakash Hotel they delivered a Mysore newspaper in the morning. It had details of a cultural programme that started the day we arrived and will last for 2 months called 'Yagshagana'. The events are spread around the area, but the one of interest, being the nearest and with the only date we could make was titled 'Kalinga Mardhana-Srikrishna Panchajanya', and located at a temple called Sri Krishndhama'. No idea what it meant other than the pictures on the article looked interesting. Why not...let's give it a try!

Yagshakana artists are from around the region, but normally only stage their shows in summer in outdoor venues. During the rainy season they have nothing to do, so this festival was an attempt to give them an opportunity to enact their work in an indoor environment. Not sure what to expect.

The same venue was being used for the temple's guru to present to the public. We arrived early and struggled to find the place. Around the corner was a beautiful temple. Very colorful gopuram and decorated in masses of flowers around the deities.

With plenty of time to spare we joined the balcony viewing area of the temple to see what was going on. More like a lecture and getting plenty of applause from the crowd. Being totally in Hindi meant we had no idea what was being said of course. But the crowd were all enthralled by what he had to say.

The Guru finished at about 7:20 and within 10 minutes the stage had been cleared and the show began. The Indian equivalent of a Chinese opera is one way of describing it. An elaborate story all played out in Hindi, so no chance of understanding. The costumes were superb. Like the Kathakali dance in Kerala, but even more ornate, and involving many more characters. Decorative painted faces and descriptive movements exagerated to accent the story. A cross between old style vaudeville and widow twanky from the Christmas pantomime...but with Indian style. Not a good picture, but hard to describe it otherwise. It was due to go on for three hours, and Shiera was getting hungry, so we didn't stay until the end. The Rickshaw driver had come back for us, as he was overcharging us as usual, so one evening at our expense made his whole day's income. He was pleasant thought.

Another visit to the Pizza Corner to finish the evening off, before walking back to the hotel. Busy day and a diverse one.

Sunday 29th August - Visited Chamundi Hill, which overlooks Mysore. Easy enough to get to by bus 201, costing Rs 19 each from the central bus stand. Richshaw drivers want from Rs150 to Rs200 for the same and take longer. The new buses are really comfortable. The one we had had big windows for a clear view.

The top of Chamundi hill is like a small village surrounding the Sri Chamundeswari Temple, which closes between 2pm and 3:30pm. A track leads downhill to the Nandi statue with a great place to stop off on the way, for a great view over Mysore.

From here we picked up a bus downhill and got off at the Zoo for Rs9. We expected it to rain as the skies were getting grey, but took the risk as it was convenient stop. Rs30 Entry plus Rs10 for camera. Sure enough, after less than half an hour, it chucked it down. Huddled under a gazebo with a load of soaked Indian folk until it eased off.

The zoo is well organised with a set route around the park so that you get to see all of the animals. Gaur, Elephant, Giraffe, zebra, lions, bears, dear, Gorilla, Nilgai are amongst the inmates. I did think that the animals were all well kept and seemed content enough. Expected to see some Tigers, but alas none. Not sure where they were, but no signs for them either.

From outside the zoo we caught a horse drawn Carriage to Pizza corner for dinner, then off to the Maharaja's palace for 7pm.

We had a time limit as the Maharaja's Palace is lit up between 7pm to 8pm on Sundays only. The same Calesa driver took us to the entrance. Free to get in. Wow.... So pretty. It is an attractive palace in the daylight, but at night when lit up, it is like a fairytale palace. Gorgeous for photos, and a military band plays music throughout. A wonderful experience and well done to the Mysore palace for doing it.

Half a day of just catching up and watching movies on TV before heading out in the afternoon. Another nice Thali from the Indra cafe. This time a north Indian one, which, to be honest was nicer than the south Indian version.

Off to the City Bus station to catch bus 303 to Brindhavan Gardens (Rs14). Quite a way and slow as it was near peak time for the schools, so our bus was overflowing. The gardens are famous in the Bollywood movie scene as a favoured location. It isn't until you get there that you realise why. Set below a dam wall as a backdrop, they are in an amazing location. Even with the rain coming down fairly consistently, they were still worth the visit. Rising up a slope to the excellent Royal Orchid Hotel. The view from the top is one of the most dramatic gardens i think i have seen to date.

We stopped in the Orchid for a coffee and sandwich...cuddled up in the beautiful decorative swinging double chair swing. Gentle music playing in the background. All in all a romantic and magic location for a hotel. They have a spa, a ballroom, outdoor marble chess board, and a swimming pool. At Rs5000 for a double including buffet breakfast, you get plenty of style for your rupee.

One of the main things the gardens are famed for is the sound and light show at 7pm. From being fairly quiet when we arrived, the place was heaving by the beginning of the show. There is a grandstand area around the musical fountain across the dam lake which didn't last as long as i expected, but was nice enough.

Didn't hang around long after the show as it would be hectic getting out, so caught the next bus out, which leave every 10 minutes after the show finishes.

We are moving on tomorrow and had to get ourselves organised.

Fort Kochi...Part 2

jeffbrad — Mon, 23 Aug 2010 23:40:00 GMT

Today we aimed to chill a little, after being busy for many days. A late start and made ourselves a cooked breakfast / Brunch for a change. Not that healthy, but food for the soul for a change from spicy Indian.

I recollected from my last visit an area where there was a higher concentration of spice vendors than we had seen already, so went out in search late in the afternoon. Mattancherry is the main area for that, bordering on the Jew town area. It took a little while, but found the places i had been before. This time though, the prices seem to have escalated to silly proportions. There is a nice place run by a women's cooperative, but it is being driven by commercialism, rather than common sense i think. Very pleasant ladies though, who served us four cups of spiced tea in a row. Each good for a different purpose. Felt great afterwards, so didn't need to buy any! The guy who was in charge seemed to have an attitude problem...maybe through dealing with too many tourists? It is funny how many people we come across who will not negotiate. Take it or leave it. I guess that if we were Indian then it would be different. They almost insult sometimes as if we shouldn't argue about their prices, because they think we have so much money. When i get that attitude i just walk away, as it is their loss. We know enough now to know when someone is ripping you off, but they think they are smarter. Funny when we come out with the truth about the prices and where to get the best deals. They shut up fast.

The highlight of the area are the rooms tucked away down alleyways, where the ladies sit cross-legged sifting through hundreds of kilos of spices all day, grading and bagging them. The aroma is beautiful, and their job tiring, but they have such great character, and so pleasant towards us.

Didn't buy any spices as we came to the conclusion that the prices here are too high. We later heard that they probably do so much business shipping hundreds of kilos out to the United Arab Emirates and Russia, that the tiny amounts purchased by the tourism market is small bsuiness for them. You see truck loads of spices being loaded, heading for the port. One area seemed overflowing with warehouses crammed full of Rice, Onions and Chillies. Some of that might be aimed for local consumption, but plenty aimed overseas.

After taking a break in a rough and tumble local cafe, and indulging in some freshly cooked Gulab Jamun in syrup and some other sickly stuff washed down with Chai, we headed for the market to buy some vegetables for dinner. The plan was to have some meat with it, and we asked the Rickshaw driver to stop at a shop to buy some chicken. He did...a shop selling live chickens in a really dodgy area. We only wanted a half kilo not a whole one, and the guy looked at us, smiled and then promptly signalled to one of the workers to get a chicken for us, which he put on the scales holding its wings together. The cleaver was almost approaching the poor squirming chicken, when i asked him to stop. There was no way i could let them slaughter a living chicken for the sake of half a kilo of its extreeemely fresh meat. I would have nightmares about this partly plucked chicken crawling around, wondering where its other leg had gone. And asking its mates in chicken heaven to haunt that foreign ba$tard who stole its other leg! So we had another vegetarian dinner this evening. My principles will lead me to turning vegetarian...will try and slaughter a fish tomorrow...unless it looks at me before i buy it!

Turned out to be a nice one. My wonderful wife cooked up one of her famous soups, whilst we supplemented it with a spiced up stirfry and melon for desert. Ahhhh....

The business ideas are flowing at the moment and the calculator is getting used more often. India offers much potential for some trading opportunities and also helping friends out a bit to save some money here and there. All in the melting pot at the moment.

Managed to chat with my mother in the UK. Always wonderfully chirpy for her age of 85 or so. Raining in the UK and folks are miserable about the lack of a summer. It has already been and gone, and they hadn't noticed it. Feels good to chat with her.

The Onam festival peaks around Sunday, and the floral round carpet is becoming more common a sight around the town. There are specific flowers used for it, but the designs are different.

Saturday 21st August - Had a good night's sleep, and being Saturday the school opposite wasn't screaming its head off at a silly hour, so we slept a bit longer. Had been to bed late last night after we had spent many hours researching for our potential business. As if our heads weren't full enough of details and possibilities, i opened my e-mail to find an invitation from a TV company in the Philippines to feature our travels as part of their regular magazine programme. Early days and responded to find out more about what they want and how it would work. Exciting opportunity we think!

We are poised in a position where we could take so many opportunities and make a business out of it. We need to focus on what fits best into our future plans, and the wish for continued travel. If the profit from one can cover the cost of the other, then that would be the ideal outcome.

We had read about a shop that supposed to sell nice clothing and material stuff , so went out for a walk to check it out. FabIndia is near to the Naval base and an easy enough walk. We went the long way there to check out another part of town. Really nice and plenty of quality homestays around. Got the the shop and ended up buying some shirts and soft furnishing. The museum shop across the road was like an Aladdin's cave of good quality stuff, so spent a while in there. Left before my credit card managed to escape from my wallet. That was close!

We stopped at one of those outdoor butchers to buy some beef. The sort of place where you question the hygiene. The wooden chopping block was probably 20yrs old and multi-coloured with the stains of age.

On the way back to the apartment we stopped for a tea at the Vasco cafe. Isn't it weird when you don't believe in horoscopes, like i don't. Whilst drinking tea we were thumbing through some recent magazines, and low and behold....a horoscope that was scarily accurate for what we are experiencing right now. Me Pisces, Shiera Scorpio. Spooky! It mentioned that we are going to make it in TV, and travelling is a big opportunity for business and success plus some other stuff i cannot reall right now. Well, it's nice to know that the future seems bright.

For dinner we disguised the meat and made a great meal with it. An Indian equivalent to a Chili con carne. Amazing what can be done with a few spices.

I had bought some tickets for a cultural dance show at the Kathakali centre for this evening. We dressed up Indian style...Shiera in beautiful Punjabi suit, and me in Kurti pajamas. Looking and feeling great. At the show two ladies were wonderfully dressed in old Keralan style and performed a number of traditional dances. The backing where a tabla player, a lady singer who was also the dance teacher and choreographer, and a guy with an excellent voice. A show well worth seeing. Shame that the girls didn't stay for photos after the show. As soon as their pieces were finished, they disappeared.

Sunday 22nd August - Today marks the beginning of the Onam festival here in Kochi. The school nearby was alive and kicking early with some cheering, so i got up and went to investigate. The kids were all dressed in their posh clothes and playing a game, hit the pot which is suspended in the air blind-folded. It was fun to watch, especially the ones who had no sense of direction and wandered off towards the crowd. The kids ran for cover and had a great time taunting their friends as they took their turn.

The young Indian girls dress so pretty. A large group of them is a riot of colour, and with garlands of Jasmine hanging from their hair plus the usual gold jewellery it added to the occasion.

I heard some singing going on at the St Francis churh. Turned out to be a succession of weddings, with the next queing outside for their turn. The one i stayed to watch had a crew running around with video cameras and spot lights. A relatively simple arrangement, brought to life with the beautifully dressed audience. Many Indian women invest in some stunning Saris for special occasions. Thousands of rupees worth, plus an array of detailed gold jewellery. It really is one of the world's most beautiful dress styles.

Not much else happening around the immediate area today, so did some catching up the rest of the day. Went out in the evening to eat, seeing as we had cooked for ourselves the past few days. I am getting choosy about Indian food now. There is some poor to average food around here. Possibly due to the budget tourist nature of this place. To get really good Indian food they seem to charge an excessively high price for it in the top-end hotels.

Monday 23rd - Was going to check out what was happening with the Onam festival, but there didn't seem to be anything happening. A few groups making floral arrangements at the entrance to their businesses, but that was about it.

Made a random choice to catch the ferry to Vipeen Island instead. The car/passenger ferry costs only 2 rupees and only takes a few minutes. The water seemed a bit cleaner on that side of the crossing. There is a small beach near to the jetty, although not very clean. There is a constant flow of rubbish being washed in from the sea, so it is hard to keep it clear. As with the Fort Kochi side, Chinese nets line the water front. We wandered around the nearby village. Quiet and not much to see, so we headed back over to Kochi. Getting hungry we decided to buy some fish and shrimps from the waterfront sellers...straight from the Chinese nets. Another spicy concoction from the Brashaw kitchen. I guess our systems are getting a spice overdose, so wouldn't be surprised if we get a reaction soon.

There had been an incident happen in Manila where an ex police officer had taken a bus full of mainly tourists from Hong Kong hostage, to get media attention for some corruption claim against him which seemed he disagreed with. He was due to retire next year. Ended up with four people dead, plus others in hospital for treatment. He ended up being shot by a SWAT team. So i guess he lost his case! Made quite big news on the internet and in the Philippines. As a reaction to the situation, it seemed that Filipino people were being banned fro travel in Hong Kong. Why such a reaction to what was one crazy guy's personal mission. The world isn't logical sometimes.

Tomorrow we plan to move on to Coimbatore as an overnight stop for the early 'Toy Train' Nilgiri Express to Ooty. Stuff to do before we go like posting off the stuff we have bought over recent weeks.. Will lighten our load by 11kg!

More in the next posting folks. Bye for now.

Fort Kochi

jeffbrad — Fri, 20 Aug 2010 13:30:00 GMT

Wed 18th Aug - The strike that was due to take place today didn't transpire. Apparently, a guy from Bangalore who headed a sect, had been intimidating people and worse charges for various reasons, had been captured in Kollam, south of Alleppey and sent back to Bangalore to face charges, which is under different government than Kerala.

Where we are staying is central to all the places of interest. The only things it lacked was good internet and a kitchen, as we are desperate to cook for ourselves, having been forced to use restaurants for a few weeks now. This area has a large number of homestays, many with kitchen facilities, so we looked around and found a nice place for the same price as we are paying at The Brisbane, but with a kitchen, warm shower and Wireless internet. Plus the owner's daughter is studying in the Philippines, so they knew the country somewhat. Plan to re-locate tomorrow.

One of the Autorickshaw drivers stopped and asked...'Will you do me a favour'... Will you go to a shop and i will get 1 Litre of fuel free? Oh no we thought...here we go! Well for some strange reason, we decided to go. It turned out to be ok, albeit pricey. They always are. The shops they have to ask people to go to are always overpriced. Anyway, as with all people, shopowners, drivers etc...they all have a homestay or know someone who does. They all get commission of course, but we went to see his homestay. Rs400 including kitchen, but a bit filthy and no Internet. At least it dropped us in an area where we could look around and find out where the market was. Where we ended up preferring was Rs500 but cleaner and quieter.

Then the rains began...time to retreat to the Inn. But first we were hungry, so stopped at the 'Talk of the town' restaurant for a great Biryani and drinks. It seemed to be one of those places frequented only by foerigners. The food was good, albeit a bit more sanitised than wht you get on the street.

Just a thought....i have been working on some ideas for writing a book, or maybe even two. For a while i have fealt that during the past few years i have amassed a vast range of experiences, not just on travel, but also about cultures, people, relationships and food. writing a journal is meant primarily as a form of notes for my future reference, and as an aide memoire to future revisits. It is also proven to be a source of help to fellow travellers who might stumble upon my journals through some random internet search. The subject matter is varied and sometimes, when i am in the mood, aims to examine from my own perspective the way the cultures inter-react, and evolve and also what everyday life means to some people.

Do you ever get time to just sit and let your mind wander from one random thought to another...stimulated by what is going on around you at a pointin time. Of course you do. We all do. But how does that work. I think of my brain like a vast catalogue, with an index that is a little jumbled up. The key to finding what is on what page is like an old tree, who's branches are a bit twisted and some a bit broken. Occasionally, you find a new branch and some leaves, and maybe if lucky a blossoming flower, which erupts into some great memories and a change of mood. A truck passes and honks his horn...another thought. A motorbike starts below, and then hums away into the distance. People sit in a restaurant opposite studying a menu, wondering what to have for breakfast, or even just what it is they are reading as they have no idea what it means. Shop owners wait in their doorways waiting for the next customer, or at least for the rain to stop. One distraction after another, but all leading to more random thoughts. A rats nest of wires dangle from a post...oh my god...how come anything works around here. Birds building nests in amongst the electrical insulators. Every direction, more thoughts.

We look at cultures who appear orderly with manicured streets, manicured people, and manicured minds. Everything needs to be just right...or we cannot function. Other cultures appear to be disorganised chaos. Nothing seems manicured, nothing tidy, and nothing clean. And yet in some way, it seems more harmonious and organised than the highly manicured world, somewhere out there. Why? Expectations, standards, cultures? Sometimes the most disorganised places seem to work. Almost no accidents no matter how chaotic the roads and how badly maintained the transport seems to be. Great food that will not give you food poisoning no matter how unclean the kitchen might appear. And yet the manicured world, is full of accident prone roads, food poisoning, poor inter-person relationships and cultural battles, stress and health issues. How is that then?

Left to its own devices, people have a habit of sorting themselves out. Survival is the motivating factor. Cannot rely on a pension scheme to provide for the future. Have to fix the vehicle if it breaks. Have to put food on the table every day no matter what. Who cares the colour of a person's skin, or the creed they belong to. Who cares how tidy as long as it works when we need it. Yep, it will fail....the electricity, the water, the weather, etc..but just work around it and get on with it.

I have always been fascinated by the way people adapt to their surroundings, and how some people are scared of change. How some poeple cannot cope if some minor element in their life goes off the rails even a little. They need advice and guidance from some soure, be it friend, family or religious and spiritual guidance. In the supposedly more chaotic parts of the world, this latter guidance brings harmony and direction to people's lives, and can be the underlying driving force that makes the chaos become manageable. Turns the unexpected into an opportunity to learn and develop, rather than something to cause unrest. I search and continue to find answers to many questions. Observation is a major key to getting answers. words are not always necessary, they can put some flesh onto the bones when you have begun to understand the basics. More thoughts, and more questions. On with the day....

More spending...cannot be helped. Door handles. Why door handles? Might come in handy one day. Got loads of them now. Will buy some cobra shaped metal ones possibly. Just got to find the right price. Some more cushion covers. Shiera likes them.

Fort Kochin is a great place to wander the streets. The Basilica is a major building from the Portuguese days. The waterfront is a fascinating stretch facing the thought provoking Arabian sea. Doesn't the very word conjure up an image of black stallions racing across a desert plain, and dusty desert camps with camels roaming around after return from a caravan trip to some far away place.

Chinese fishing nets haven't changed in many decades. Designed like a cantilever using stone weights to drop a square net into the water. They work well enough. The Arabian sea here is a dark black, mixed with green colour. Water hyacinth lines the front like it does in the backwaters. Not likely to get anyone swimming in it, unless they are nuts. There is a nice path along the front that i don't remember last time i came here. They have fitted benches, facing out to sea. Good job they did, as the rains came fast and we had to take refuge on one of the benches and huddle under our umbrella sipping on a cup of warm Masala Chai that we had luckily just bought. The rains didn't last and we finished our walk along the front before heading back into town, to compare prices for spices. A rip-off is one phrase i would use. The price for spices seemed well above what it should be for India. We bought some spices in Kumuli that seemed very much higher priced here. That area was the centre for spice production though.

The next day we moved to the Chettan Homes apartment in Fort Nagar, where we have access to a kitchen, and the lovely company of John and his mother Lily. Something we have missed. After settling in, we headed to Jewtown by rickshaw. An area famous for its antique and souvenir shops plus spice market. The Dutch palace and Jewish Synagogue (Rs5 entrance) and Jain temple (only open in the morning), are also easily reachable for a break from shopping. The area is generally high priced for most things. Having got reference prices from other places, we were astonished at the high prices they were asking. Sure, they came down fairly rapidly if they thought there was a chance of a sale, but you lose confidence in them when you know they are still at least double what it should be after the drop, and they won't come any lower. After a while we stopped bothering to look. There are a few shops with the most amazing items. The Darshan Art cafe, with its sprawling rooms full of antique palace door frames costing thousands of pounds, with stunning carving. Massive pillared entrances. Awesome furniture items. Many of these items are bought up by wealthy Kuwaiti or other Arab customers who aren't bothered by price. They ship them over to put in their homes or hotels. Poor Keralans strip their homes of anything interesting to make money!

A home made pasta dish and soup this evening...Good to be back in the kitchen again. Of course it was spiced up a little. Shiera was happy again. We got great wi-fi at the new place, so time to catch up with posting photos and journals. And time to ramble a bit, and read a book whilst we take a break. The school opposite was rehearsing for the forthcoming festival, which take splace on sunday, monday and tuesday. I hadn't originally planned to stay that long, but it seems silly to leave and miss it.

Kumuli to Cochin

jeffbrad — Thu, 19 Aug 2010 23:41:00 GMT

Fri 13th August - After a short stay in Kumuli, we are moving on to Alleppey today. A little problem before we set off. We had to walk out of the restaurant at the Coffee Inn as the service was so slow, that breakfast was going to turn into dinner, and didn't arrive. Decided to head to the bus station earlier than planned. There is a single direct bus to Alleppey leaving about 1pm taking 5 1/2hours. It is just as easy to take any other bus going to Kottayam and change there. Same overall time. KSRTC Our bus left at 11:20 costing Rs69 for the 4hr journey. Managed to buy some Bananas and snacks for the journey to compensate for not having any breakfast yet. Surprisingly, there were other travellers on the same bus and others queing to take other bus. More than we had seen on our journey so far. Mainly French for some reason. The other foreigners at the Coffee Inn were mainly French too. Must be a good time of year for them to travel?

Kumily is a nice place to stay. Plenty of really good restaurants, activities to do and good places to stay. Had we not wanted to get to Alleppey for Saturday, we would have stayed longer.

Leaving Kumuli westward is beautiful, lush valleys of spice plantations, Coffee and tea plantations. Rolling hills and some pretty cottages nestled in amongst it. A bit of a bumpy ride. Which added to the fun. A cool start to the day, which i am sure will heat up when we descend to the lowlands. We had plenty of rains as the trip progressed. Tea plantations fizzled out and became rubber. A noticeable spread of well cared for churches, an ocasional mosque and little sign of Hindu temples, indicates a very different religious balance in these parts than we saw in Tamil-Nadu.

With our driver progressing at breakneck speed and the occasional lunatic trying to overtake us in the most stuid of locations, Shiera wasn't feeling too well. The road snakes its way along for almost the whole journey and the road rough.

We arrived in Kottayam at 3:10pm and ran straight for the Alleppey bus (aka Allappuzha) which cost Rs27.5. After leaving the mayhem of the town, the bus entered the area that this place is famous for....the backwaters. Beautiful verdant rice paddies, dissected by mile after mile of canal. Along the banks houses are separated by a path wide enough for a cycle or rickshaw. Occasionally a houseboat appears, until closer in to Alleppey when they appear more regularly. The houseboat originates from converted rice barges, which are no longer used for that purpose. Many offer plush 6 or 7 bedroom accommodation. They are fairly unique to this area of the world. i noticed that large areas of the canals had been choked by water hyacinth...and invasive weed. Pretty with its lilac flowers, but terrible in waterways. It does offer a habitat to snails, crabs and fish, which the locals live off though.

Reaching Alleppey is like a shock after the open space as it is a crazy congested town. Back to honking buses and rickshaws again. No sooner had we arrived at the bus station by the jetty, we were approached by a guy offering accommodation. Normally i wouldn't bother, but we hadn't booked anything and it is a busy time, and took a gamble. Turned out to be an excellent place...

The Vrindavana 180yr old Heritage home in Zachariya Bazar (www.vrundavanam.com), is within walking distance of the beach, and had a great restaurant, the avocado. To add to it, they laid on a special evening's entertainment of traditional dance and music Kerala style. It also came with free wi-fi. Good food and a nice beer accompanied by lively entertainment meant for a nice evening. They had placed hundreds of oil candles along the paths to create a lovely athmosphere. Full marks to them. I was also able to buy our tickets for tomorrows boat race, so that made things really easy.

Saturday 14th August - The Nehru Trophy Snake Boat race. Due to comence at 2:30pm. We had tikets for the finishing line stand referred to as the 'Victory Line'. Being busy we had to get there before noon to choose our location, so had to set off at 11:30am.

It had been heavy rain during the night and was still raining when we had breakfast. The idea was to leave for the Snake boat race at 11:30am as it was all going to start around 2pm, and the tickets were for the finishing line, being the best place to see the action. We got a rickshaw to about 1/2 km from the entrance / Victory line and it was nuts. Totally crazy, and that was about 11:40. We got dropped off and walked the rest. Mayhem is one way to describe it. Thousands of locals battle through the entrance into a muddy track to get to the wooden platforms. Narrow tracks along the waters edge had to be negotiated slowly as it would be so easy to fall in. The more expensive tickets got a view opposite to the Grandstand, where the Lady President of India, Pratibha Patil was due. It took a while, but with some swinging from one place to another, and getting covered in mud up to the ankles, we managed to get a seat. Not a great location, but the alternative was to stand up for hours. What i had read was that the tickets were Rs75 to Rs500. We paid Rs700, and most foreigners in the better locations had paid Rs1000 or Rs1500. Now i cannot believe that the locals will pay any more than Rs75. I think we are scammed when it comes to tickets. There is no price marked on the tickets, so i think they hope you don't find out!

The whole Kerala Police force was there to swell the crowd. And anyone with a boat was jostling there position to get a view. The muddy mess was crazy, and everyone was so squashed in that it was a bit overpowering at times. Shiera wasn't well, and this made it worse. The race was done in stages as there was only a maximum of five lanes. At most there was only four boats at a time, each with upto maybe 100 oarsmen and beaters, who pounded out a rhythm, accompanied by others with whistles or just shouts to get them going. For the first couple of hours the boats went past on practice runs. At about 2:30 the actual stages began. The crowd errupted into frenzy as many had bets running. Screaming and exuberance from the winners, made a real hightened experience. One guy in front of us ust have had a big winning as he almost went hoarse with the excitement.

We hadn't brought any food, but some snack sellers passed, so it wasn't too bad. After the first stage had finished Shiera wasn't feeling too good, so we made our exit. That was tricky! The crowds were so tightly packed, we had to scramble through the stands and muddy fields, across slimy mud to get out. Some people were climbing through the drains. It was discgusting.

A naval helicopter flew overhead with a frog-suited diver dangling underneath, but we couldn't see what else was going on, so carried on out. There was no other option but to walk most of the way out due to the volume of people. A big jewellers shop had put on a display outside to attract business. People with really good animal body paint and animal headwear were dancing outside.

Back to the Vrindavana Inn and after a freshen up, Shiera felt up to going out again, so we headed for the beach, about 1km away. What a surprise. Alleppuzha beach is really nice. Clean almost white sand. The sea was a bit rough, but good. There was a great opportunity not to be missed..a camel ride. Rs100 for the two of us for a short plod up and down the beach. Exciting for Shiera, as it was her first time on a camel. We had drawn a nice crowd who wanted photos with us, which was fun. The sun set behind a grey cloudy sky, so no sunset tonight.

There are a few ice-cream sellers along the beach and a couple of nice restaurants, one associated with a hotel. The other, the Harbour restaurant was full of foreign tourists, so we joined them. A nice beer and a great meal...Kerala curry again. This time Beef! Now you don't see beef in Tamil-Nadu, being predominantly Hindu. Here, it is more available. Many Muslim here and Christian/Catholic. In fact it is now Ramadam, the month of fasting for Muslims. Most of the staff of the Vrindavana Inn where we are staying are Muslim, and so night time is when they can eat and party.

A highlight of the day was a visit to see the movie Madharasa Pattinam at the Raiban Cine at the medical college. Before the film started i noticed what looked to two of the oldest cine cameras in the projection room behind us. Went to investigate and was invited in to meet Vijay, the cine operator. A great pice of film history was sitting there. Nowadays they had a new computerised projector sat next to it. The old ones were still there, but i guess never used.

The film, set in what is now Chennai, but used to be Madrasara Pattinam, and depicted a time of the Indian Independence from the grip of the British in August 1947. Today is Independence day, and will be celebrated at some places in India. Here it is low key. It showed the British as very brutish and disrespetful, and i felt really bad about some of the characters, especially the main army officer, who was both ignorant and hostile towards the Indian people. It was an emotional storyline and very well acted. There was some good performances by the English actors, but some terrible acting too. Very cheesy to say the least, but terrific to watch.

The cinema had no aircon, just enorous fans on the walls. The power failed part way through and the film froze whilst it sat on backup battery until the power restored a few minutes later. As with the old days, they had an Intermission half way through. I remember that as a kid. Nowadays, they don't bother and run the film through to the end. Here they have a toilet break part way through.

The film was a typical musical with dancing at poignant points on the movie.

Earlier in the day we had dropped off at a random shopping area, and gone into a wedding saree store to get out of the rain. Left the store with a beautiful Saree. For under 2000 rupees, it was a superb material and Shiera looked gorgeous in it. The staff even put on a good demonstrtaion for her on how to wear it. So sweet of them, and very attentive.

A great Biryani cafe served us up a super meal...fingers the only option. So good it hardly toughed the sides....yummeee...

Monday 16th August - Moving out of the Vrindavana Inn today. I have a friend from my last visit to India, who was and still is a tour guide. He has now extended his business with homestays and is also going into the houseboat business. Today i caught up with him and relocated to his home amongst the backwaters. A lovely location and peaceful. The home he shares with his mother and father on the riverbank. Great food and hospitality.

We had bought Shiera a couple of Sarees and wanted them tailored, so had to go to a local shop to buy some extra material before going to a lady tailor nearby. I went native too and bought a Lungi, which is like a Dhoti but less material and also coloured material instead of plain.

There is a free boat service crossing the river which was interesting as the boat had a platform attached for motorcycles and overflow passengers. Shortly after the return crossing, the local school had finished and hundreds of children appeared. I didn't think it possible to fit so many bodies and bicycles on this small boat. The kids were wonderful. Bright shining faces and enormous smiles. All the girls had red bows in their hair and pink dresses, and the boys a smart uniform. Many must have been trained to ask for foreign currency or a pen, which was amusing.

The rains came on heavy later, but ceased by early evening, so we could sit outside and chat before anothe great dinner. A harmless snake slithered along near to the house, and the guys had to hook it and throw it over the wall. Mosquitos are a pain here, and the house had to be fumigated to avoid being drained of blood in the night.

Tuesday 17th August - It had rained all night, but still had good sleep. The electricity company switch the electricity off in case a tree was to collapse across a power line, so the water pumps weren't working, hence no running water either. Good that cooking is done with gas! An interesting breakfast of steamed Putt...made from rice flower mixed with coconut and steamed above a pressure cooker, using a Putt steamer. Had that with a curried chickpea mix and also mashed with banana, sugar and ghee, with nice Masala chai. Very tasty.

After breakfast we went on a lovely walk around the paddy fields and caught some nice scenes of local life. Some farmers were working in the paddies wearing umbrella hats. Apparently not available locally, but look cute. This area is also rich in birdlife and insects too. Kingfishers. Snake birds, Mondo and Herons abound. Numerous species of Dragon flies.

Shiera had a Saree dressing lesson from the mother of the house and we then had a photoshoot, with me in Lunghi. It had been a wonderful friendly place to stay and so friendly.

We got dropped back at the KSRTC bus station in town and took the bus to our next destination of Fort Kochi, west of Ernakulam. Have to do it in two stages to save time. The first stage was to get a bus to Topumbaddy corner for Rs19 each. We were glad to get off that bus, as we had the most annoying guy sat next to us, who insisted on using his mobile and shouting at full volume in my right ear, plus he got his briefcase out, and was all elbows. I had to push his elbows out of the way a couple of times, and the conductor had to ask him to quieten down too. Plus he kept rambing on to me with no idea what he was saying. I think he was drunk too. The next bus from around the corner was only Rs 5.5 to Fort Kochi bus stop on the water front.

I had been here before and was looking forward to coming back and stopping longer. I remember it being a chilled place with good food options for foreigners....and English breakfast!

Made it before dark and managed to find a simple room at the Brisbane Lodge for Rs500 per night on Princess Street, warm shower and plenty of space. Plus it was right next door to an internet cafe with wi-fi. Princess street is the main road for accommodation and souvenir shopping. A quick check around some cooking schools before settling on the Salt & Pepper restaurant for some Non-Indian food for a change.