Fri 23rd Oct - I was shocked this morning. Stopped for a chat with a couple of guys by
the entrance to the Star Lodge, to find that one guy's daughter had her handbag
stolen yesterday. It was snatched from her shoulder
and the strap broken to get it off her. They were due to go back to Thailand
where they live, and had to rush off to the Thai embassy to get a temporary
passport. The other guy told a story that last night one of the
residents was beaten up by a gang of youth's
with knives and all they took was his bag with book in it. He ended up in
hospital. Both events happened here in Muntri. Considering the warning I had
received recently, it really does put a dampener on the beauty of this place
that it is becoming so dangerous to be here for tourists. Apparently, the
police had been patrolling the area, but the criminals just wait for them to go
and catch the next unsuspecting person who walks past, and they come out of the
alleys as a pack, so you don't actually see them hanging around as a group.
I
had the runs this morning. Proving that the highly rich Indian diet had taken
effect. What goes in must come out...sometimes with full force!
The
minibus arrived early to take me to the bus station and had to wait there a
little while until time to join the big bus to Ipoh. Chatted to an interesting
couple from Melbourne who where antique dealers. They make a regular trip here
to buy items to ship back to Australia. The cost of flying to KL from home was
only AUD$99 all inclusive. That's a crazy price and making me think about the
trip I want to make there next year. Getting there from Manila was US$586 at
the last quote, and getting to KL is easy enough.
The
Big bus set off at 9:30am and was a bit swish. Nice comfy armchair type soft
reclining seats. Not many passengers and no video blasting away; Pleasant. It
stopped at Sunghai Nibong Express bus terminal at 9:45am for 15 minutes to
collect more passengers.
Arrived
in Ipoh at about 12:15. First task was to check out the options to get to Jerantut.
Only one bus company doing that trip. Stoneway, and charging RM40 leaving at
1am every day and taking 6hrs.
I
had rung ahead to the Hotel Sun Golden
Inn so took a taxi there for RM12. The book says 5 to 7 RM but they wave a
fixed tariff sheet and refused to do a meter. Must be a tourist thing.
Well
I have to say that this hotel is crap for the money. I think the standards are
poor. Yes they have the functions, but with signs of neglect. RM38 for a room
with aircon, warm shower etc, but could have been better.
Well
it was early enough to do some sightseeing and find out what Ipoh has to offer.
The main Jalan Sultan Iskandar road
leads straight to the railway station. Locally called the 'Taj Mahal' due to
its roof. It is a grand colonial building. Most of it seemed closed. The
Majestic Hotel which forms part of it is running a promo rate, but it seemed
dead. I checked out some travel options whilst I was there and made a decision
to scrap my plan to do the Jungle railway from Jerantut. It is a lot of hassle,
and looking at the timing, would take me 3 to 4 days to complete from now
including stopovers so you cover it in daylight. The end point is also in an
awkward spot for border troubles, so I decided to abandon. Little to gain from
doing it. Instead I will return to Thailand on tonight's overnight train from
here. I will only go as far as the Malaysian border and cross over, then see
what happens from there, but should be able to catch a bus or minibus.
Having
not had a meal today other than a light breakfast, I went in search. Found some
nice old buildings and stopped at the nice 'Old Town White Coffee' restaurant.
Free fast Wi-Fi and ok food. I mistakenly ordered a 'Rose float', which turned
out to be a fluorescent pink colour. Garish and sweet.
Just
as I was considering leaving, thunder and lightning started and the heavens
opened. The rain was so heavy; I had to abandon any idea of leaving as I had
nothing for cover. Time ticked by and no sign of it letting up, so I decided to
make a run for it and see if I could spot a taxi. No luck as all that passed
were occupied. So bit by bit I had to run from one cover to another until I had
made it back. Chance to dry out and freshen up before having to head back to
the station.
From
what I could see earlier in the day, the station didn't have much in the way of
food. Maybe it opens in the evening. Just in case it didn't I went on a search
around the hotel area. Plenty to choose from with local restaurants, mainly
Chinese. I ended up at the posh sounding 'Ritz Kowloon'. Well it was the nicest
hotel in the area, and the restaurant was clean and with good range of food.
Even a 7-11 across the road to get some bits for the train journey.
On
the way back to the hotel, I noticed a few dodgy looking 'Massage Parlours',
with even dodgier looking women standing in the doorways. It brought to mind a
comment in the guidebook that many of the hotels around here charge the rooms
by the hour. Where I am staying is a daily rate, so a safer option. The hourly
ones, looking at the state of the women, must be beyond imagination...gives me
the creeps just thinking of it. How many diseases would sir like this evening?
Just one...for a special deal we can fix you up with a whole groin full of
infections!
As
the rain had stopped, and I had plenty of time, I thought I would walk to the
train station instead of catching a taxi, but one passed and I weakened and
went to the Old Town café instead. Snacked up and used the free internet whilst
I was killing time. Only a few minutes walk to the station from there. Plenty
of skateboarders had now come out to play around the area in front of the
station. Massage service was open too for people stressed out waiting for their
train. And without feeling surprised...when I got to the station, the train was
delayed by 44 minutes and counting. So, having left the coziness of the café to
the quiet of the station, I now had some time to kill. It is a clean station at
least. The taxi driver earlier had given me an encapsulated business card so it
would stay clean and asked me not to lose it. He wanted to be my personal guide
and helper if I ever returned here. Good English and enthusiastic to extol the
virtues of his country. You know, out of the many countries I have visited,
Malaysia stands out at the one where the people openly want to promote living
here. It doesn't take much and they will tell you how great they think it is,
and why I should come and live here. The government must be doing a great job
for its people to believe in it so much. It warms your heart. So many countries
have its people wanting to leave in droves due to some disagreement they have,
but not here. Stand up and sing the Malaysian national anthem now...now how
does it go?...I have no idea!
A
group of youngsters (makes me sound old that term...hmmm...) were dressed a bit
oddly and taking photos of each other. Tried to ask them what they were up to,
but they couldn't explain in English. Looked fun though. Malaysians are quiet
and patient waiters....they just sit and contemplate, and look serene.
52
minutes and counting....
At
this stage one begins to ask oneself why one chose this option. Maybe one was
having a senior moment. Maybe one was deluded into thinking it would all run to
plan. All I wanted was to sleep instead of using a bus, which by the way left
at around 00:45 and would go straight to Hat Yai, but would get no sleep at
all. The ticket aboard EL8 Lankgawi Express was only RM46 and cheap enough.
Ironically I had paid RM38 for the room in the Sun Golden Inn and didn't even spend
the night there. They wouldn't give me any money back for leaving early. But I
didn't fancy spending another day in Ipoh, no matter what virtues it might
have. At least I had a shower and a rest in the room. So did I make the right
decision? When you travel on yiur won, it is easy to make some really poor
decisions. But they seem ok at the time. 56 minutes delay and counting....
At
00:45 EL8 put in an appearance. 77 minutes later than the scheduled time. Nice
that wasn't it. Of course, my carriage S3 went whizzing past, so I had to
leggit to the far end of the platform to board. I wouldn't mind but I had asked
a guard where to stand. So he wasn't much help. Anyway, off to sleep
now...Zzzzzz.....
Sat 24th Oct - I managed to get some sleep during the night, even
thought the train was very bumpy at times. From around 7am it was impossible to
rest any more, so got up. By that time most of the passengers had left the
train. The scenery was nice. Mainly paddy fields and palm trees and a misty
morning as the heat haze was building up.
The
train arrived in Pedang Besar at 10:15. Right outside the train, on the
platform is the immigration section. Well, under ideal conditions it would be
that simple. But the train from Padang Besar to Hat Yai wasn't running and so
they had closed immigration. I walked in and it was deserted. Asked around and
was told it was upstairs. Went upstairs to be told it was downstairs. Got fed
up with that and went to the money changer at the bottom of the stairs to get
rid of my ringgits. Got a rate of 9.7 Baht per ringgit. In Penang the rate had
been 10.7 baht per ringgit. Lost a whole baht. Could have kept and changed in
Hat Yai, but it was acceptable. Anyway, after some more advice, went back up
stairs and out of the back of the building along the walkway and into the main
immigration post. The signs aren't that obvious, until you get there. Not many
people, so stamped out of Malaysia fairly quickly. Next, a few hundred metres
in the sweltering heat through the no man's land duty free zone and into the
Thailand immigration. By this time I was dripping sweat on my passport…yuk!
Another quick passage and out the other side. Back into Thailand time now, so
watches adjusted back 1hr.
I
had expected buses, or minivans to be waiting to go to Hat Yai, but nothing.
The few extreme charging taxis that there were, had departed by that time
leaving nothing but to walk to the main road, dragging this damned trolley
case, which is annoying me. There is a bus stop around 50 metres along the
road, so sat and waited. No bus, but after a short while a car pulled up and
wound the window down. The guy asked if I was going to Hat Yai, which I was.
200 Baht he said...150 Baht I replied...ok 100 Baht he then offered. I liked
his bargaining skills..if I kept going he would be paying me! Turned out that
he worked for the police in the town and was nice to chat with, in his limited
English. At one point we stopped so that he could buy a new car DVD player from
a scrap dealer. You don't get this on a bus or taxi. It is a fair journey to
Hat Yai, and I asked to be dropped at the railway station, as I knew the way to
my accommodation from there. When I came to pay him, he refused to accept
anything no matter how I thrust some money at him. He was so kind, I got the
journey for free. The adventures and pleasures of independent travel. Stayed at
the Cathay Guest House again for 200 Baht. There will definitely be much better
in the area, but they can at least organize the next section of my trip.
Thought
I would lie down for a few moments as hadn't had much sleep during the
night...and as if by magic....I lost 3 hours....time travel!
Out
on the street to soo what was happening. Right now the 'Vegetarian festival' is
on throughout Thailand. Now I would have thought that this meant just eating
healthily and nice stuff. Well, I heard some firecrackers and loud bangs going
off by the Central Mall, so followed to see what it was about. A group of
youngsters, dressed in Chinese clothing, were doing all sorts of strange things
to themselves, such as cutting their tongues and stomachs with sharp knives to
the pounding beat of a drum. Trying to cause themselves some form of additional
harm by dancing with large handfuls of crackers. The volume was deafening. I
asked and was surprised that that this was to do with the Veggy festival. What
are they doing this for? Seems a tenuous link to eating healthily.
Inside
another mall a music company 'Perfect Pitch', had a stage set up with some
awesome guitarists showing their skills. Incredible standard from one of the
soloists. They were actually promoting the quality of their instruments and
giving out brochures. So many kids in the audience could only dream of becoming
that good, but it is amazing the skills that some players can achieve.
In
the evening I fancied something a bit different for dinner. Went to a tabletop
barbeque place in the middle of the entertainment area. Hotplate inset into the
table and a pot to boil the veg and noodles. Really clean place and nice
service. I had a pork set for 123 Baht, which was just enough. Everywhere here
seemed to be playing big screen football. Popular with the expats as well as
the visiting Malays. A normal sight at night is the wandering elephants and
their mahouts inciting people by to buy bananas for them. Seen this in almost
every town I have visited in Thailand. They say to not encourage it. But what
will happen if people don't support them in some way. They will be retired out
to pasture and eventually disappear, as there is no work for them anymore.
An
evening listening to live music around the bars. Plenty of it, and good
quality, and a majority sung in English. The occasional Thai song does prove
popular with the locals though, and seems to lift them up a bit more as they
can join in.
Sun 25th Oct - Have been dwelling on where to go next. Thought I would
go back to Bangkok direct and went to
the train station to find all trains were fully booked for today. Randomly
decided to go Ranong, which is a hot spring/spa town on the Andaman coast north
of Phuket. Only one bus goes direct from here, leaving here at 11am for 500
Baht, and should take around 8hrs journey time. A little expensive, but had to
make a decision. The islands are all same same, and would be more expensive
anyway. Thought I could grab a bit of beach time after Ranong if I felt like
it.
I
was dropped at the bus station in plenty of time, and was surprised that it was
an ordinary bus. Nothing fancy, not even comfortable seats like in the big
buses. I was also surprised to see the actual ticket price of 390 Baht. So they
make 110 Baht profit just to take to the bus station! As expected, I was the
only foreigner on board.
Fairly
ordinary journey through Phettalung, stopping for a 20 minute lunch break just
before 2pm on the way to Surat Thani. Onwards north and is noticeable how
Thailand becomes more 'Thai'. The mosques have vanished. The pretty Thai
temples are more common and no more Arabic signage. In fact no English either,
apart from the small print on the major road signs. Everything else only in
Thai. We had a spell of heavy rains and continued threatening grey skies as we
progressed. Was hoping it wasn't going to be grim all the way.
The
bus detoured from the main highway in to Lang Suan to Collect/drop some
passengers. There are some places that aren't on the tourist trail for good
reasons, and I have to say that this is one of them. Apart from its location
surrounded by nice forest, the town certainly didn't seem to have any redeeming
features. The sun was shining...and that didn't make any difference!
Darkness
fell as we sped along route 4006 going westwards. The forest around here is
lush and hilly with vast plantations of palm oil. Going north on the final leg
to Ranong and it began to get built up once more. I asked the conductor if he
knew the place I was due to get off and he denied. A girl in front said she
knew and indicated to me when to get off. I had faith in her. That was a silly
thing to do really. Having faith in a stranger, especially a non-English
speaking stranger is always fraught with problems. I should have believed my
instinct. As soon as we got off she indicated that I needed to get on a
motorcycle taxi. Considering I have this lump of a trolley case to tow, I
thought it was a bad idea, and they all vanished rather quickly. After a
succession of asking folk along the way where the 'Spa Inn' was, I found my way
there..around 2km from where I got off the bus. I passed it once, as the signs
were in Thai. No English anywhere. After all that effort and sweat pouring out
of me…It was disgusting. They had the cheek to want 490 Baht for a room that
had walls that were peeling so badly. The stair carpets were worn right
through. And the whole place was dead. No wonder it was empty. I refuse to stay
and left in disgust. So, where to go now? The guidebook suggested only one
other place and I couldn't contact it as the number in the book was wrong as
usual...the normal flaw with the Lonely Planet. So many numbers change and you
end up just having to take the risk of going there. A few people stopped as I
was walking there. One young lad even followed me for a while and tried to
help, but he gave up trying to explain to even a sawngthaew driver where I
wanted to go, and that was with the aid of a map. It was the opposite end of town
from where I started. So I gave up and had to walk. By the time I got to 'Casa
Theresa', I must have walked around 4km lugging this now frustratingly annoying
trolley case. Sure enough the telephone numbers had change. Also, the book
suggested the prices began at 200 Baht. Not any more they don't...now the
cheapest was 500 Baht! Worn out and hungry and now late, I had no choice but to
accept it. It did mean that instead of stopping for a couple of nights, I would
now only stop for 1 night at that price. This place was dead too. I was the
only person staying here. What is going on? Maybe it is out of season, but
thought there might be one other person at least. Walking through town, there
isn't that much to offer really, so no wonder. It is a spa town as it is
surrounded by hot springs. I thought that there must have been a special event
on, as a majority of people were dressed in white. A small group at a Chinese
shrine were beating drums. The main road through the town was alive with a
ceremony. Back at Casa Theresa, the proprietor confirmed that it was all to do
with the Vegetarian festival, and today was the last day.
I
stopped at a nice outdoor food stall for a bowl of mixed meat/vegetable soup. I
had not seen another foreigner all day...so Ranong is definitely not on the
tourism trail. Firecrackers were going off in the distance as I ate. So after a
little research, Ranong has a few functions…one as a gateway to Myanmar and a
place where some foreigners will come to renew their visa if they cannot get
somewhere more sensible. Many places in town offer the renewal service with a
minibus to the border, but I guess many will just go it a lone there. An in/out
stamp will still cost the Myanmar entrance fee ($5 I think), and only allow the
15-day extension unless a longer term Thai visa has already been secured in
advance. It sounds to be a total pain to do here, considering that it involves
getting out of Thailand at Victoria Point,
followed by a boat ride to get in to Myanmar as a day visitor, and then going
on the return leg with a round trip of a couple of hours plus I am sure some
bargaining to do along the way. Easier to let an operator sort it out. The
other purpose is as an access point to some of the outlying islands and also
the local hot springs of course.
So
my brief overnight stop in Ranong was a bit of a waste of time really. A long
day getting here, and another long day tomorrow to get to somewhere more
interesting. It is out of season of course, and next month onwards will see an
increase in tourists so they tell me.
So
where to next? Well I could go all the way back to Bangkok. Aircon buses leave
here often (5am, 7am, 9am, 10:30, 13:30, 17:30, 19:30, 20:30 Bus station tel:
811548) taking 9 hours. I can also go to Chumpon leaving every 90 minutes
starting at 8:30am (plus an early one at 6:30am) taking 3hrs. But that would
only be of use to connect with the train north and there is only one sensible
train during the day and the rest leave late. If I got there and could not get
a seat on the train, then I would either have to get another bus or stay in
Chumpon until late and waste almost half a day. What a pain of a decision. I
think my best option is to get a Bangkok bound bus and ask to get off at
Phetchaburi (aka Phetburi), as it supposed to be interesting.
Mon 26th Oct – An early start so that I stand a chance of getting to my
destination at a sensible time. Woke up before 6am and rather than stop for
breakfast, I got a motorcycle taxi to the bus station to catch the first bus
out. I was the only passenger on the 7am aircon bus. Booked to go to
Phetchaburi, taking around 7 hrs hopefully, and costing 260 Baht.
Ordinary
journey for most of the way. Really cold aircon and my toes were going numb!
First
major stop was Chumpon at about 9:30am for 15 minutes. From there it was major
highway north following the same route almost as the train. Pleasant enough,
with a nice lunch stop along the way. I was supposed to be dropped at
Petchaburi bus station, but the driver wanted to drop me on the highway, a few kilometers
from town, with no taxis, or other passing public services. He thought it was
most funny and kept chatting to the conductor and saying the word Falang every few words. They knew how
difficult it was for me and so I refused to get off the bus. They wouldn't take
me where I had paid to go, and so carried on to Bangkok. I had to change my
plans as a result. Got so angry with the idiot for the attitude they had and a
couple of passengers who could speak a little English sympathized, but nothing
that could be done about it. It totally spoils what is a lovely country with
that type of behavior, and not the first time it has happened. The driver
stopped the bus further up the road and got the police. Between him, me and a cell
phone with someone screaming at me in distorted English, I just told them how
bad this was for Thailand tourism. They think it is a joke, but I bet the Thai
government doesn't as they are trying to promote tourism. It all got settled
eventually and I stayed on the bus to Bangkok. Cost me another 100 Baht, and
then thought what effect this would have on my plan. I was a little stressed
now, and not in the mood for thinking about what to do next.
Well
as I didn't want to stay in Bangkok again just yet, I began to think I should
just go to Hua Lumphong train station and get the next train to my favourite
place of Chiang Mai? But on the other hand, that would mean a crazy day's
travel with nothing of substance to it, just travel. Within a few minutes of arriving
at the southern a bus terminal in Bangkok, I was in a metered taxi and whizzing
off to Hua Lumphong. Traffic seemed easy and only cost me 160Baht, so I was
pleased with that. Arrived at 17:58 to find 1 sleeper berth left on the 6pm
train. Too late to get on it really, as I needed dinner and to freshen up. Took
a later train at 17:35 instead (771 Baht for upper sleeper)...phew...sorted and
time to eat. Anna Kitchen on the
upper mezzanine does great food, so indulged in a lovely Thai green curry and
rice. Calming down now as today has been crazy. I reckon I will sleep on the
train tonight!
Things
are going crazy back in the Philippines. Too much to go into, but can't wait to
see what evolves. Shiera is juggling things about and nothing clear as to the
outcome yet.
You
wouldn’t believe it, but whilst I was walking through to the train platform, I
bumped into a guy I know who owns the Soi 1 backpackers in the city. He had
been away for a couple of months back in Australia. Great to catch up with him
and his partner. We were on the same train to Chiang Mai, but in different
carriages.
I
was lucky this time to be sat with an American guy and his newlywed Thai
partner. They were doing a family tour before they went back to the US. It was
nice to chat about cultural issues and perspectives in the world’s opinion. She
spoke almost no English, and he absolutely no Thai. So they had a mountain to
climb in order to be able to understand each other and even communicate in a
basic way. But they had now been married for 3 days!
The
train was late in leaving by over an hour. It was a bit disappointing, but at
least I availed myself of the free internet you can get form the ‘Green
Bangkok’ network. A limited speed service, but better than nothing.
The
magic bed fairies came around really late seeing as we were late departing. It
has been a ridiculosly long travel day, with changes of plan along the way. It
seems erratic at times, but I have been to Thailand many times and seen a cross
section of places. It would have been nice to see Phetchaburi. I did see the
palace on the mound as we raced past it on the bus. I almost waved at it.
Sometimes it is nice to see new places, sometimes some familiar ground too.
Chiang Mai is like that for me. Every time I come here, I always seem to manage
a few days there somehow. Catch up with a few familiar faces. Hang out in
places I know. Go and listen to music in my favourite hangouts.
I
will be back in Bangkok on 4th November or earlier, as I am salsa dancing in
the festival there from 5th to 8th November.
A
bumpy ride on the train as usual. Never get a comfortable night's sleep on this
particular journey, no matter how tired I am. Woke up when the train was
stopped ad Den Chai station at about 6:30am. Plenty of activity by that time so
no chance of sleeping any longer.
The
train was running quite late. By the time we reached Nakhon Lampang, we were
already 2hr 40min late. It didn't matter so much as I was having a nice chat
with the guy from the US, so time was passing ok. It was lovely to see the
photos from their recent wedding in her home village. Before that, she had
never been outside of Udon Thani. Never been on a train even. So many new
experienced for her. The main issue was language, as she could not get involved
in any conversations yet. It will take time and patience on both their parts.
One of the main problems was that she could not go to the US with him when he
returns there soon. It will take maybe 6 months of paperwork before that can
happen, and they will have to get married again in the US. This is always the
case with Asian/foreigner marriages. It takes time for the passports and legal
stuff to be resolved.
The
train finally pulled into Chiang Mai 2hrs and 40min later than scheduled. From
then on it was a well rehearsed routine, having been here many times. 20Baht
for a shared Sawngthaew to Thae Pae gate area and then in to my favourite Guest
House at Boonmee Mansions, and the very friendly Florence & Sam. It is like
going home and the greeting is lovely. They have now opened up a noodles bar
outside, which they had only started building when I was last here. A few other
cosmetic changes, but still like coming home.
Wed 28th Oct - For many people in the media driven world, today is
marked by the release of the Michael Jackson movie. Lots of hype about it. Well
for me, today was marked by something even more dramatic...I decided to
exchange my trolley case...which if you have followed my journals, has been a
bit of a bad idea...for...yes folks...a backpack! Aahhh...I feel better
already. So much lighter and more practical to travel with. I hope the two of
us will grow to become good friends and I will be forgiven for that temporary
relapse into the world of the trolley case brigade. One day, I might be ready
again, but not just yet.
Another
little coup was that, on my last visit to Chiang Mai I bought a book 'Colonel
Ken's Hardship Postings' by Stuart Lloyd. Relating the stories of expat
misadventures in Asia. Thought it was very funny and could relate to many of
the stories. I went back to the original bookshop where I bought it, and
exchanged it for volume 2. More fun reading to come. With all of this
excitement, I had to stop for lunch before the afternoon's
activities...whatever that may be?
All will be told in the next thrilling installment....bye for now folks.
