Sat 10th Oct - Usual Breakfast at the Elfin Café and got a shirt repaired at a street
tailor. Then off to the MBK centre for some light shopping. Got lured into Swensens by the entrance to the MBK for
an ice-cream sundae. Gotta have treats now and then. I have to psyche myself up
for shopping, so something to soften the blow.
The
rest of the day was just bar hopping and a visit to what is known as Soi Cowboy at Asok. One of those places
to wander through to see the bright lights, and side attractions, for research
purposes! Didn't stay long and walked back through the markets.
Sun 11th Oct - Late breakfast and the highlight of the weekend with
salsa at the Elfin restaurant for a few hours. Not many people turned up, so a
quiet time and left early.
Mon 12th OCT - Heading for the Royal beach town of Hua Hin for a few of days. Around 4 hours south of Bangkok on the
train. Last time I was in Bangkok and had to go to the station, I had no
trouble getting a taxi for 60 Baht. This time none were interested, wanting 200
baht. Made my own way by skytrain and metro for 43 baht. The 1pm train was
fully booked, so I had to settle on the 3:10pm one. No sooner had I sat down
and a nice lady from Chiang mai started chatting to me. Really nice and owner
own beauty salon there. Having been to Chiang Mai many times, It made for some
easy conversation, and got an invite to stay when I go there. Her husband was
killed in a motorcycle accident 6 months ago, so that was sad. She had a young
daughter to raise now. Had the thought that she might be eying up potential
husband number two! The express train 37 had comfortable leather seats and fan
cooling and spacious legroom. Being an express train and considering they do
this every day, it never ceases to amaze me that a train can then be 40 minutes
late? I have made this comment before, that I used to consider Thai trains to
be punctual, but not any more. The last three trains I have been on were all
late in arriving.
I
had pre-booked a couple of nights at the Tong
Mee House on Soi Raumpown (032-530-725) whilst I was in transit. Of course
the tuk-tuk driver wanted a crazy 100 baht to get there. Wasn't far so I
walked, and it only took a little over 10 minutes. Nice clean and cozy rooms,
with aircon, TV, warm shower, massage available, and in a quiet location. Quick
shower then out to eat. Hadn't really formed any pre-conceived ideas of what to
expect here. It is very commercial and possesses a great range of eateries of
every nationality. Night bazaar and lots of comfort stuff for the homesick
expat....Irish bar, pubs, fish & chips etc plenty of bright shiny lights
without being overpowering. As expected, it has a multinational feel with
German, Scandinavian, and British visitors.
It
seemed to also have a thriving go-go bar scene too, although not as brash as
Bangkok. A Katoey/Ladyboy show at the Blue Angel seems popular, as the cast
were on the street promoting it.
Tue 13th Oct - After a late night catching up on the net, I realized
that this was the quietest place I had been in for some time. I had slept like
a baby. Great shower and then felt alive and ready to attack the day. Well one
thing seems very apparent when walking along the waterfront...you don't see
much of it! It has been overtaken by pier-based restaurants pushing out into
the sea, and obliterating the white sand beneath. One of the piers was
interesting as the fishing boats were bringing in their catch. I walked the
stretch to the north of the centre and it was deserted apart from a few
fishermen. The remnants of the old fishing village are still in evidence. That
was nice too see. The narrow pathways with old tumbledown shacks lining them;
kids playing ball or simple games; fenced in from the narrow khlong that leads
away from the sea. The resorts that line this section of beach were deserted
too. Maybe out of season and I guess, would be alive at the weekends as the
Bangkokians come to play. It was a nice time to walk on the white sand and
reflect on life for a while.
I
will be visiting the UK for Christmas and visiting a friend in Spain on the way
there for a few days, managed to get the final leg of the flight sorted. The
next task will be to sort out the return flight. Looking at options at present
but haven't come to any firm conclusions yet.
Back
out for a walk, this time to explore the southern area of the town. By the
clock tower is the Hua Hin wat. A hall in the grounds was hosting a funeral at
5pm, but people were already arriving from the family. Some ladies in
traditional Thai dress were obliging for photos, and one lady spoke some
English, so explained to me what was happening. Lunch at the easy going Joy
steak and music bar, which did me a nice chicken Penang.
The
streets of Hua Hin are awash with Taylors selling 'original' Armani suits and
are touting for business as you pass. So many of them it is ludicrous and
amazing they can do enough business.
Getting
onto the beach seems to be limited to either going through a resort or a path
that leads between the two sections of the Sofitel hotel. At the end you are
greeted by horses offered for a ride along the beach and to one side a mass of
umbrellas and restaurants swallowing up the sand. The southern direction is a
bit more open though, and it was comforting to at last get my flip-flops off and
tread fine white sand. Plenty of stuff going on...beach volleyball, picnickers,
a bar playing dodgy reggae music. Busy, but laid back. I can imagine what this
place would be like at weekends. Well at least I could see the sand today!
Had
a good evening. Started at a group of bars near the Hilton for some drinks and
chat with a group of thai locals and then went to a Karaoke bar until almost
3am. Many foreigners in there who had obviously been a while, as they were
singing the thai songs too...very impressive. One thing that got me, and sort
of spoiled the evening in a way. I had been with a small group of thais. When
we came to leave, they handed me the bill to pay...for all of them. So I had a
discussion with them and left them. I hate this. Foreigner = free night out for
everyone. They wanted to meet up again tomorrow, but I declined and told them
to find another sucker to pay for it. It seems as though Hua Hin is full of
retired expats just buying themselves a life with the locals. As long as you
spend money on them, they are yours for the evening. This sounds bad to say,
but I am getting so tainted these days by the foreigner abuse scam, that it is
changing my opinion about this country; beautiful yes, but in this type of
place anyway, full of users and abusers. Nice on the surface, but with a hidden
agenda underneath. It is hard to find what I would call genuine people if you
go to touristy places, as over 90% of the people you meet will be in the same
mold I reckon. I have had endless conversations with expats about this on my
travels. The conclusion is that it is a fact of life here. If you find someone
who you think you can trust...don't let go of them as they are hard to find.
Turn your back for 5 seconds and even they will probably be looking at the next
guy to walk past. Anyway, enough of the rant for now....
Wed 14th Oct - 6 days to go until my visa runs out and have to think
carefully what I want to do with it. I am missing Shiera very much, and the
strain on us is growing with the separation. Things aren't going that well back
in the Philippines after the typhoon Ondoy struck and caused chaos. Work is
causing major headaches for Shiera, and poor communications make for
difficulties.
After
a great breakfast at what I think is the nicest and cheapest place in town at
the Crepes & Cruises restaurant
on the water front, I thought it would be nice to take a leisurely stroll to
the far northern end of town and visit the kings palace. Took me ages in the
sweltering heat and got there to find out that the public aren’t allowed in,
and cannot see anything from the perimeter fence anyway. So feeling that I had
wasted my time a bit, although a nice walk, I consoled myself with a gorgeous
Gelato at Da Vinci’s a short walk back from the palace. The lady who runs it
speaks great English and I was the only customer, so we chatted for ages about
lots of things and I felt thoroughly relaxed and happy afterwards.
I
had a wonderful steamed fish in lime and chili for dinner from a restaurant at
the end of one of the piers. It was superb quality and washed down with a
lovely glass of red wine. Aahhh….
It
has been another one of those days for various reasons, and didn’t really get
my head around what I was going to do next until late in the day. Thought I may
as well move on south tomorrow and try my chances of a visit to Khao Sok
National Park. That meant getting to Surat
Thani and then working it out from there. Off to the railway station to buy
a ticket which cost me 460 Baht leaving at 11:14am aboard train 43 and hopefully
arriving at 4:30pm. Only one class of seat (2nd) available.
With
that sorted… another Gelato was in order. I usually don’t treat myself so much,
but lately I need comfort food!
Thu 15th Oct - Breakfast at Crepes & cruises again and then off to
the station. The train arrived 45 minutes late, but it didn't matter as whiled
away the time chatting. Hua Hin station is a beautifuly restored traditional
building, with original trains on display and surrounded by flowers. Had
expected a big train to arrive, but it turned out to be only two carriages. A
bit of a flurry of activity to get people off and new passengers on in the few
minutes allocated for the stop. A meal service was brought around before the
train had pulled away from the station.
On
balance I liked Hua Hin. It has a mixed appeal, with enough to do for a short
while, plenty of places to dine and drink, and good evening entertainment. A
little more pricy that I exected. For anyone wanting some tailored clothing it
is also an ideal place to come for the golfer, it has some world class courses
from what I gather, and it is the lure for many foreigners here.
Pleasant
enough journey, arriving in Surat Thani at 5:10pm. Well the stationis actually
in Pun Phin, about 14km from the town. As expected and remembered from last
time, a throng of touts descended on the train. Had some option and knew that
there were many scams to expect. Hopped on a shared sawngthaew for 80 baht
which of course dropped me off in Surat Thani town at an office offering services.
After a bit of bartering I got a combined price of 650 baht for the aircon
minibus leaving tonight plus a bamboo hut fan room in the park. The minibus
left at 6pm. With such a rush of events I hadn't the time to sort out food. I
was hungry now. It is easy to tell that they are used to this every day as they
get stroppy really easily when you challenge anything. Best to not to get
stressed with them. I could have stayed the night and gone tomorrow for
cheaper. But by the time you add it up it isn't that much different and didn't
want to stay in Surat Thani.
Luckily
the driver stopped to pick something up and there was a chicken vendor nearby,
so picked up half a chicken for 60 baht to munch on the bus. Felt much better
after that.
Sometimes
you just gotta have faith...
After
dropping a few locals off along the way, it was just me and the non-English
speaking driver. Arrived at the turning for Khao Sok National Park and his
limited English asked where idi I wan to go? The voucher they gave me at the
booking office which included the first night's stay, didn't say. All I could
remember was that it was in a bamboo hut. With some persuation I got his to
ring the office and we worked out it was the Jungle Huts Resort. So of we went with load sof people passing the
slip of paper between them, shaking heads and having a discussion. Well I was
pleasantly surprised when we got there, as I was to stay in a lovely little hut
with fan and hot shower. Late and adrk by now, but all I could hear was the
chirruping of the cicadas, croaking of frogs and plenty of jungle
noises...really happy that it seems to be ok. Restaurant open until 10pm so
able to have a warming curry to eat. The guy that runs it is really good with
advice on transport options around the region. They have some tours on offer,
but I wasn't sure about the 2,500 Baht price tag. Mountains, canoe rides,
caves, large lake and bamboo floating rooms are part of their offerings. Chtted
with some other travellers and came to a conclusion to go walkabout in the ourselves
tomoro and see what happens.
Fri 16th Oct - Up at 8am for a day in the jungle. Breakfast choices
weren't that great, so good that I had a few good days in Hua Hin. Had arranged
to join withthree Dutch guys for the day and we would do our won thing in the
park. Only 10 minutes walk from the Jungle Huts to the park Entrance. Was
surprised that the main road is packed with Guest Houses, restaurants and
massage places as well as travel agents.
100
baht entrance fee to the park. The visitir centre hands out a good enough map
with descriptions of the main features and distances. Two routes covering
mainly waterfalls. Due to this being wet season still, both roues came to an
end part way with a barrier forbidding going any further until 14th December.
The estimated times to these points must be for the extremely slow walker as we
made them both inhalf the suggested time. On the first one we attempted to
ignore the barrier and go further on and see what happened. Naughty but easy
enough to turn back if it got difficult, which it did, so we got to a point and
turned back. After 6 hours total walking including a stop for lunch back at the
visitor centre, we had done all that was possible to do. The leeches were so
annoying. At one point I must have had about 30 of them on me. Disgusting
little critters. Had a really nice dip in the fast running river which was
actually quite warm. Throught the whole day we didn't see any wildlife at all.
Bad time of year for wildlife.
The
prices asked for tours are extortionate. 2,500 baht for a couple day tour
including food and a night stop on a bamboo raft plus some treks. For what you
get, it is too expensive. For what we did today, which wasn't much and followed
well organised routes, would have cost 1,200 baht each! For what?
Back
at the huts, showered and fresh and time to plan what to do next. Fancied an
Elephant trek (800 baht and 2.5hr round trip), but needed an extra person as
minimum of 2.
Thought
I would find out if any other place could do the elephant trek for me and failed.
Seems as though you have to be part of a group to organise it, and nobody would
sort it out to let me join, which seemed strange to me. Anyway, the Khao Sok Rainforest Resort, was the most
helpful and organised. The Lonely Planet contact number is wrong, and I had
tried to contact them previously. Correct numbers...0898276230 and 0772395135).
The lady in charge sat with me and went through the detail of what they offered
and it was not only better than where I was staying, but cheaper price too.
Interesting..on
the way into the resort I spotted a tattoo guy doing a really intricate job on
a guys back. Nothing clinical or sterile...just a long needle and the dyes.
It was going to take 1 week with 2 hours each day to complete. Three heavily
tattooed bikers looked on as the guy had to undergo this without showing any
pain.
Whilst
having dinner at the rainforest, the owner came and joined me. The business has
been running now for 20 years and he was originally from Kho Samui. Not wanting
any music to disturb the natural sound of the forest was a nice aim. Being out
of season made everywhere very quiet with only nature as accompaniment and the
few smiling attentive staff.
Had
checked out their tours and found them more informative and better priced than
the Jungle huts. Got a few other together and booked a night trek with them for
600 baht each, so rushed back, got changed and out again. The trek was mostly
following one of the routes we had been on during the day, but at my request we
broke off and went deep into the jungle. Saw a few snakes, plenty of
Chameleons, frogs and toads, some nice birds including Kingfishers, bats, Civet
cats, Scorpions, Stick insects, Massive Spiders and the usual Leeches that were
determined to have a good feed. Lost some blood this evening.
Sat 17th Oct - After some thought I am going to change my plan for
extending my Thai visa. I was going to attempt the route down the east coast
through to Kota Bharu in Malaysia, but there have been warnings of safety
problems down there. This is a long standing issue with the Muslim group and I
don't need to take risks for the sake of getting a new visa. The easier and
safer option is to go to Penang Island where there is a Thai Consulate in
Georgetown. Have been before but don't mind that. It is better than going all
the way down to Kuala Lumpur, and facing a big city again. Have been there and
not too excited about going again.
That
sorted, had a nice breakfast at the Thai
Herb Restaurant. Lovely presentation of what I ordered, and a beautiful
setting surrounded by flowers and with a lovely view of the karst limestone
hills behind.
Checked
on the travel options with the abundant operators here, and worked out that it
should be just as easy to just do each section myself and get the next leg of
the journey when I arrive. 200 Baht minivan back to Surat Thani at 9am tomorrow
is the first stage.
Now
for some serious pampering and a lovely 1hr's oil massage at the Thai Herb for
300 Baht. Nice technique and felt good afterwards. Some research on the net
afterwards to prepare for the Malaysian section, and was lucky to catch up with
Shiera for a brief time too.
Dinner
at the Thai Herb restaurant again. The food here is superb. They do a great
range of herbal drinks to sort any of your problems out, even sex! I did think
of having six glasses of that one...mmm..
The
problem when you only go somewhere for a few days is that you don't get to
sample all the eateries and restos. In Khao Sok they are excellent and I will
miss the range of food and the lovely environment. The sound of the cicadas and
a little quiet music made for a perfect ambience...shame I was on my own.
Better shared are these times :-(
Sun 18th Oct - After a scrumptious breakfast it was time to move on. I
had booked a minibus connection through to Hat
Yai but hadn't asked much about the detail. Turned out that it was to go
through Krabi to drop of some passengers and I would change bus there. 600 Baht
for the whole trip. Everyone with backpacks except me of course. This
reinforces my feeling that I stand out even more now. I was also the oldest by
30 years too. The rest were all students on gap years.
The
journey to Krabi is beautiful. Limestone karsts line the route giving it that
pre-historic feeling. It also made me think that after my short stint in
Malaysia, I might return to Thailand this way to spend a few days. Will think
more nearer the time.
Got
to Krabi minibus interchange at 10:30 and had lunch whilst waiting to leave.
Only two of us on the next section going via Trang. They try to sell onward
tickets through to Penang the same day, and I could have done it, but wouldn't
get there until 9pm. Felt it worth stopping in Hat Yai for the night to break
the journey up. Making for an easier and hopefully more casual trip tomorrow during
daylight.
The
further south you go in Thailand and the emergence of Muslim culture becomes
more pronounced. Mosques, women in Muslim clothing, and even the Muslim
language on signs, which are now given in three languages. The stopovers offer
Muslim food, and prayer rooms. It is confusing to realize you are still in
Thailand, although there are still some reminders with the occasional ornate
temple.
Got
the driver to drop me at the railway station and it was only a few minutes walk
from there to the Cathay Guest House.
200 Baht per night for a double bed room with fan, squat toilet and friendly
staff. Organized a minibus with them for the trip to Penang tomorrow. Cost 280
Baht and leaving often. I'm taking the 9:30am trip, getting to Penang early to
mid afternoon. They also rang ahead and booked me some accommodation at the 75 Traveller's Lodge on Jalan Muntri.
Hopefully they will be able to help with my new Thai visa.
Now
4pm and a little time to explore...
Well
am I lucky with the timing or what. Walked outside the Cathay and heard
something a short way away. Turned out to be a Chinese celebration with street
dancers and a dragon snaking its way around the streets with firecrackers going
off at random. A long trail of vans carrying people and statues hurtled past in
another direction, not sure if that was something else or the same celebration.
A short walk from here and spotted a nice Chinese building not on the map. This
was a temple that was being used as an assembly hall for a dragon float and
some other fancy stuff. The are also has a nice market, which is very different
from elsewhere in Thailand. Full of sweet things and my favourite fruit Dates,
which you don’t see here generally. I think this is the Muslim influence coming
through, complete with a fetish for nuts in many varieties. Women bedecked in
colourful scarves, and older ladies in black with only a slit to show off their
dark eyes.
Spotted
a few foreigners around as well as one who had become a Buddhist monk, in his
Ochre robe and sandals. Some other things of note...part way along the
Pethkasem road, there was a long stretch of pet fish vendors. Some interesting
species in bags, bowls and bottles. The range of stuff available here is
dazzling, and shows its cosmopolitan influences.
After
all that walking it was time to eat. Only had a sandwich for lunch. ‘The Pubb’
was empty, but ok for a meal ahead of the live music at 9pm.
Went
out later for a walk down Thamanoonvithee
road, the road leading away from the railway station, and it surprised me
how many music pubs and clubs there were. Really good quality. I stopped in a
Western Saloon bar where the excellent band played English songs all night.
Chatted with a Malaysian group who come over the border for their entertainment
as there isn't any of this quality in Malaysia. They spoke really good English,
and had their kids with them. One thing they mentioned was how good it was to
go into places that weren't full of smoke. Ironic considering that in Malaysian
culture, so many people still smoke. I think it will take a very long time
before that changes. I have taken a liking to Hat Yai as a place where it would
be easy to function for a short while. Plenty of good restaurants with
international cuisine, good entertainment, and nice vibe going on, plus good
connections to places. The street life was buzzin and felt great to just walk around.
It is evident that a small sex industry exists here to cater for the Malay guys
mainly, but I was followed a short while by some guys who were trying to sell
me a woman for the night. She was stunning, but no thanks.
I
noticed a few expats here who looked so miserable, they couldn't even raise a
smile when I tried to chat to them. Not sure why, but maybe their life isn't
what they wanted it to be as they seemed stuck in their own little world. Maybe
it's the border town mentality? Everyone sees so many people passing through,
just like a bus station. No time to get to know anyone, so they don't bother.
Mon 19th Oct - Off to Malaysia this morning. Got picked up by minivan at
9:15 and first stop was an office the check passports and provide a Malaysian
immigration card, then off to the border about 50km away. I was the only non-Asian
on the bus, others looked to all be Malaysian.
The
Border post at Sadao was easy enough. Not much of a queue leaving Thailand with
plenty of booths open. The Malaysian immigration was empty, and flew through
there in about 5 minutes. The last time I was here last year, it was a little
slower from what I remember. My 1-2-call SIM was still working at the border,
but for how long I wasn't sure.
Malaysia is 1hr ahead of Thailand, so have to
adjust watches at the border. Now the same as Philippine time. Had completed
the border by noon.
A
little fiasco about 100 metres after leaving the border when the army stop
vehicles for a search. They get searched and baggage scanned at the border, so
why do they do this so soon. I have no idea. We did nothing other than our
driver handed over a slip of paper and we were on our way again.
Arriving
in Penang and the first thing I noticed was that we came in over a suspension
bridge. The last time I was here we came from the mainland by ferry? Has that
gone now? When was the bridge completed?
For
an hour the driver weaved his way through lots of little alleys to drop off the
other passengers, and I was the last. Didn’t mind it as I got to see some of
Georgetown in the process. I was to stay at the 75 Traveler’s Lodge on Muntri
Street. Wow, this area is pretty. Full of character and history. As it turned
out, the range of rooms available didn’t include one with a hot shower, and the
wi-fi wouldn’t work in the rooms. I ended up in the Star Lodge a short way along the road for 35 ringgits a night and
free Wi-Fi that was strong in the rooms.
Two
big tasks to sort out straight away. Firstly, to change some Baht into
Ringgits. A couple of money changers around the corner offering around 10:1
change, 3000Baht=303 Ringgits. So now I could pay my room bill and the next
task, was to submit my passport for a visa extension. I could go to the Thai
consulate in person, but for 20 Ringgits the 75 lodge would do it for me. Just
filled in the form, gave them 2 photos and 20 Ringgits and would have it
returned tomorrow after 4:30pm. So much easier than getting a taxi and having to
do the trip twice. Would have cost me 20 Ringgits in taxi fares and the hassle
of waiting in lines etc. So much easier this way.
This
area looks to be a photographic pleasure land, so will be out and about over the
next few days snapping a lot. But will report on that in my next posting...
