Sat 3rd Oct - Following on from my last posting, the evening turned out to be
interesting. Like the forthcoming Loi
Kratong in November, Nong Khai had its own version. An evening of fireworks
and lanterns being lit to float the wishes of the person into the sky, and
hopefully to be granted. It is pretty to see a mass of them floating away. And
more due the fact that so many people on the ground are in their own dream
world, hoping for the future; Mainly couples of course..but isn't that so
sweet. Brings a lump to your throat just thinking about what they have wished for.
Well
I was just ambling along and a got the impression that something was happening
further along the promenade. Little did I know that I had missed another
cultural show. Got there as they had finished and the crowds were on stage
having photos taken with the cast. Damn, that was bad timing. Anyway. I at
least got some nice photos. I guess it was a repeat of last night's show, but
not sure.
Another
thai band were on stage at the end of the promenade. They seem to be into Ska
here, as all the bands are the same style. Good to listen to, but a bit same
same.
Sun 4th Oct - Well this is the big day for Nong Khai. The Naga festival
peaks today being the Full moon. I have booked onto a special trip to Pon
Phisai aboard the Gaia boat, operated
by the Mut Mee Guest House for 2,500 baht a head. Not the cheapest way of
getting there, but today will be chaotic n the roads. Stories abound of the
difficulties on the roads. Special buses have also been laid on and many guest
houses are operating their own transport to get there. So why Pon Phisai?
Well,
each year a natural phenomenon occurs in Pon Phisai that leaves many people in
a quandary as to why. Science steps in with explanations of course, but nothing
is 100%. One one night of the year only, balls of gas fly up into the sky from
the surface of the Mekong. This only happens (with little exception) on the
full moon of the 12th lunar month..tonight. Some years there are plenty, and
occasionally none. A couple of years ago they happened the night after the full
moon. But everyone had gone home and missed them. How frustrating would that
be? Well I hope it doesn't happen this year of course.
There
are many stories that they are a set-up as they have now made such a big
tourist thing out of it, that they cannot let it fail.
Today
is important in many ways for Nong Khai. Festivities was going on at the temple
adjacent to Mut Mee. Elaborate carvings from bamboo were in progress when I passed,
and a stage was set up with dancers and a singer entertaining a crowd under a
gazebo. It was a hot one and everyone was wilting in the heat. The Mut Mee's
garden is nice and shaded and overlooks the Mekong. Nice place to relax and
still be able to hear the music.
The
stage kept changing performers every few tunes and the gave it there all in the
heat. The Nagarina set off at around
1pm and we soon got the first treat with a delicious lunch of local dishes and
drinks. Pao, Julian's wife had put an enormous effort into providing a superb
spread. A nice crowd of people on board, which made it all the better. The
journey as it was going with the flow of the river didn't take that long and we
arrived at the Pon Pisai jetty at about 4pm. The view on the way in was
awesome. The crowd had already started to fill the banks of the river, with
impromptu camp sites set up everywhere.
The
walkway along the river bank was at a standstill. So many people in such a
small space along with a myriad of food and merchandise stalls. Struggled for
ages to get to the wat with the sitting buddha on top; similar to that in Nong
Khai, but smaller I think. By the time I had got that far it was time to turn
back and the struggle got worse. By that time everyone was trying to get their
prime spot for the evening. Mats and anything to sit on was shoehorned into the
tiniest of spaces. As darkness fell the lanterns and fireworks began making for
a pretty scene. A continuous stream of illuminated boats flowed down river at
the same time as hundreds of floating candles. Occasionally the crowd would
surge up with ooohhs and aaahhs as folk thought they saw a fireball. To be
honest, there was so many fireworks whizzing around and floating candles on the
river, that it was impossible to tell what was what. Fireworks were also being
fired from the Laos side, which made matters worse. The athmosphere though was
lovely. Everyone just revelling in what was going on. Worked our way back to
the boat to depart at 9pm, but some people had got lost and didn't make it back
until late, so we were an hour late leaving. The boats aren't allowed to dock
at the main jetty in Phon Phisai, so they have to moor along a stretch of rough
ground out of town.
A
superb banquet dinner on the boat with more sourses than my stomach could
handle...just not used to big meals anymore. Plus some wine and piano music
over the tannoy, made it very sophisticated.
The
lack of fireballs might have been disappointing, but the rest of the cruise was
an experience that made up for it. We all left with the theory that it was a
tourism hoax. Too convenient for it to be believable. But of course there are
plenty who would argue the reality of it all.
After
the meal and thai deserts had been served, the tables and chairs were cleared
to the end of the boat and comfortable mattresses rolled out on the floor to
sleep on. Depends on how tired, but ok to rest at least. Going against the flow
of the river means it will take upto 5 hours getting back. We arrived back in
Nong Khai at 3:30am. Must have slept as some hours had vanished.
Mon 5th Oct - Was 4am when I climbed in to bed and out like a light.
Slept until 10am and then felt I had to get up and have some breakfast and get
on with the day. Over to Noi & Brendans For a light breakfast and a few
hours vanished again chatting to some expats. The consensus was that the Naga
fireballs would actually happen tonight seeing as it was poor last night. Had
to consider stopping and giving it another try. Did some research with the
Tourism office, bus stations and guest houses and came to the conclusion that
only option was to go and stop overnight in Pon Phisai. Wasn't too bothered, so
abandoned the idea.
Now
that most folk have gone home, Nong Khai has assumed a much quieter atmosphere.
Still plenty of riverside food vendors and some events like a boat race, but
much quieter than recent times... Gone to sleep in a away. I have got to know a
few expats and bar people over the past 5 days and it was nice to just wander
in the evening and chat to folk along the way. Went further along the
waterfront than I had done so far, and went as far as the stupa. There had been
some celebration here over the festival, and the carved bamboo monuments were
still on display. An intricate demonstration of their artistry and something
they repeat every year. I think there is a competition for which is best, but
hadn't witnessed it. Stopped a while in one quiet place for a beer and time to
reflect on what Nong Khai had to offer. Well it is one of those places that
makes what it can of its position flanking the Mekong. A slow paced gentle atmosphere
and friendly people. I can understand why many arrive and never leave, as it
offers most things you could want. I even found a live band playing in one of
the restaurants and others where the band was due on later. Not sure if that is
all year round, or just festival time?
Spent
part of the evening with a guy I kept bumping into, a French girl I had chatted
to on the boat and a group from Greenpeace, here on a mission regarding nuclear
energy and solar energy. Interesting to hear the concerns they had. Thailand
isn't up there with world leaders in alternative energy opportunities, but it
is developing. You would think that solar energy usage would have widespread
implementation in a country with so much sunshine, but funding has never taken
off for such projects.
Tue 6th Oct - Time to move on today. I had considered stopping in Udon
Thani, but instead have decided to push on to Khon Kaen. Tuk-tuk to bus station
and the assistants for the bus companies run up to greet when you get there and
take you to the right bus. Mine was due to leave in 1hr and cost 110 baht for
the 3hr journey.
Nong
khai has bean a lovely place to stop. Ok the fireballs didn't really happen,
but that happens and nothing can be done about it. I would certainly like to
come back some day.
An
uneventful journey with a 30 minute break at Udon Thani bus station. Arrived
just before 3pm and hopped a tuk-tuk for 30 Baht to take me to the sort of
budget hotel area. After trying a real budget place which was frankly dire, I
ended up at the much better Roma Hotel on
Khlang Muang. 400 baht for an aircon room with hot shower and free Wi-Fi in the
lobby. Almost no English speaking from the staff but got a room sorted eventually
from a few different prices. 200 to 500. The Sorrento café is part of it and
made a B-line there after check-in as I was starving by this time. A good
glossy city map is provided which seems to be the case all over Thailand. Very
well set up for tourism.
The
Roma hotel is well placed for easy access to most things here. Thanon Khlang
Muang is a straight road leading to the Kaen
Nakorn Lake, probably a kilometer or so away. On the way there i dropped in
briefly to Wat That. Noticeable
higher than many temples I have seen recently, but closed so I couldn't see
inside. Carried on to the lake and it is much larger than I expected and I
think better to have a bicycle tomorrow to go around. For now I limited walking
the top section. Met up with a traveler and some locals to go to one of the
wats; the amazing Wat Nong Wang muang.
A nine-tiered stunning Chedi shining
golden in the sunshine. I later found out that there is a staircase to the top,
but didn't see it. Will try and go back tomorrow for another look. It is
testament to the beauty of traditional Thai ornamental design. The perimeter
wall carries the usual Naga snake with its many heads acting as finials to the
entrance steps. A little surprise in the garden of a dinosaur model with baby
dino. Must have some relevance to the discovery of dinosaurs at the nearby Phu
Wiang National Park.
At
6pm public aerobics started adjacent to the lake, reminiscent of those I have
seen many times in Lumphini park. I think it is great that Thailand is
encouraging health in this way. Soon after heavy rains started. I wasn't
prepared as thought the rains were passed, so jumped into a Sawngthaew back to
the Roma for 10 baht instead of walking back.
I
had another meal at the Sorrento café later and they had live music playing as
well as large screen sports. There were nine expats that arrived whilst I was
there. I hadn't seen that many during the day, so they congregate here in the
evening. I had also been for a short walk around the corner in search of wi-fi,
as the service they promise here isn't working. I checked out the Khon Kaen
hotel and they offer it free. It also has the interesting Harem Club with the girls dressed in rather sexy outfits parading
around outside. The rooms there start at 650 baht. Not bad considering, but
above my budget.
Went
to explore the are where the entertainment was supposed to be, around
Prachasamran road, otherwise loosely known as 'Disco street'. At the far end is
the RAD Complex with a couple of rooms with different music styles; one was
playing middle of the road Thai rock, and the other the ubiquitous ska style
that I have come to recognize in this region. Other rooms have 'Coyote'
girls...in other words pole dancers who, given the right incentive will go with
someone giving them the come-on. An interesting little novelty here was the
shower cubicle. It is hot work for there girls (joke), so they shower down and
lather themselves up and then prance around the stage sexily before showering
themselves down again. The final room was the 'Karaoke' room where I guess you
could go and sing if you wanted to, but I reckon that most booths/rooms are
used for more than testing your vocal chords!
On
the same road was a really nice 'Top-West' playing some good live music. It was
late so didn't stop long and will return tomorrow night for longer. Other bars
offer KTV style with the sexy girls on stools outside beckoning passing
clients. 150 to 200 baht per hour... plus extras of course!
An
amusing thing happened as I was walking back...a foreign guy at an ATM was with
couple of Katoeys. He almost ran over to me and said... How ya doin? 'Ok' I
replied. He was so excited. 'i have no idea what these girls are going to with
me', he announced. Well I was thinking to myself that he needed his eyes
testing as they were obviously Katoeys (ladyboys), but I don't think he could
tell...naive I guess. So I humored him for a bit, and he wanted me to join
them...'no thanks'...gotta go. 'Well enjoy yourself then'...at least they made
sure he got to an ATM before they both ripped him off and gave him the shock of
his life!
Further
along the road and another Katoey on motorbike started following me and kept
stopping to get a conversation going. What is it about this place?
Wed 7th Oct - Breakfast at Sorrento. Set for 100 Baht. Three expats
there and one with the DTs who couldn't seem to answer any questions or think
straight. A shame that he had retired here and I think it must be destroying
him. Does nothing but drink and cough his heart with smoking. So sad to
see...all too often unfortunately.
Sawngthaew
to the lake again and a steady but interesting walk around over a few hours.
Empty as you can imagine it during the daytime. Some people just catching some
shade and occasional quiet. Not marked on the map yet is a new chinese temple.
Workers were laying the paving and finishing off painting the gates.
Scaffolding around, but in the process of completion. It was nice and crisp
being new. It seemed that parts of it had been there for a while, so it was
being extended and refurbished. Had no idea what it was called as all signs
were in Thai.
The
rest of the walk was pleasant, with a few shady spots to take breaks from the
heat. The temple I visited yesterday, I re-visited today, but this time a
climed to the top for a lovely panoramic view of Khon Kaen. Apart from a school
group it was quiet. Got chatting to one foreigner at the top, who was there
with his new partner. At 63 years of age he was thrilled that after 17 years of
being on his own, he had finally found someone he was happy with. Lovely to see
him happy. Back down and on with my walk to complete the circuit, and bumped
into the Swiss girl I had walked with for a while yesterday. We worked out that
there must only be three foreign travelers here right now, and we are following
each other!
Hungry
now and wanting sustenance, I took a break in the chilled Kiwi Café opposite the lake. Nice choice of food, free wi-fi and
excellent smoothies and cakes. I recommend the rum & raisin
smoothie..delicious. Didn't want to leave.
Made
a route back to the Roma via the markets. Same same but different as they say
and the Fairy shopping mall. A fairly bustling place and made more chaotic that
the schools had let out, so hundreds of kids were around too.
Checked
at the air-con bus terminal for options for tomorrow. Everything in Thai. Not
an English word in the place, and so it was confusing trying to find out what
went were. Chatted to a Brazilian lady living and teaching in India, who was on
tour with her young son and got some info for future travel there. Random
contacts can always turn out to be useful.
After
some on-line time and a nice meal opposite the Khon Kaen hotel, I returned to
the Disco street, the other end of town. The highlight of this area is the city
shrine. Lit up at night and beautifully decorated; It is an outstanding focal
point to a traffic junction. Worshippers doing their rituals amid smoke from
the incense sticks, and to top it all, a large outdoor movie screen thrashing
out an action move with the audience spread around the grass and seats. It's
all happening here!
Carried
on down Disco street and found a nice band playing the the Top-West pub &
restaurant. Ended up spending most of the
evening there after I got chatting to a British guy working in Beijing, who had
his two sons over from UK with him for a visit and his wife joined us later. A
really nice acquaintance accompanied by great music. The girl who joined on
stage later was awesome with a mesmerizing voice.
The
place is popular with expats and no wonder why. Didn't eat there, but the food
looks good too.
Was
going to head back after that, but ended up doing videoke in a bar for an hour
to exercise my voice. Now that was fun as the choice of English songs was a bit
limited. Couldn't choose much and just had to sing what they had. A great
evening overall, and made me think of extending my stay here just for the
nightlife...mmm...will sleep on it and decide in the morning.
Thu 8th Oct - Decision time...stay another night or move on?
Considering I had just found a great music venue last night and there are
plenty of nice places to eat, I decided to stay another night. So today's plan
changed, and thought I may as well check out the National Museum as advised in
the guidebook. Really hot day so took a slow walk there. I usually don't go in
for museums and so I was overdue visit. 100 Baht entrance fee for foreigners;
it was worth an hour or so meandering around the two floors. English subtitles
and guide leaflet at least meant I wasn't kept in the dark, as seems to happen
here. One of the feature displays relates to the discovery of dinosaur bones in
the area, but most are just chronicling the discovery of Isan artifacts. Was
ok, but I have done my museum now for a while.
My
feet were getting tired of walking in the heat, so jumped a Sawngthaew part way
to the city shrine. Seen it a couple of times at night, and it is just as nice
by day. Chinese totem pole style monolith adjacent to it with the usual
ornamental dragon twirled around it. At night its eyes light up red.
Had
a late lunch inThe Kit'z Kafe on
disco street whilst pondering what to do tomorrow. This is close to the railway
station should I decide to book a train ticket. Really nice choice of food in a
lovely café environment, out of the heat and with English menus.
Had
walked a lot today and was wiped out to so went back to Roma and slept a bit
then got ready to go out and see a show at was called the 'Lyara' restaurant in
the guidebook. Firstly, the tuk-tuk driver dropped me off at the wrong place
and couldn't get the message through to him about where I wanted to go, and
that was with the aid of a map, so gave up. Then spent the next hour trying to
find it and gave up on that too. Should have been easy, but nobody speaks any
English that I stopped and the name was alien to everyone. As it happened I
found a public dance session going on down a side street, so joined and got
some lovely dances with the best dancers there. A cloud with a silver lining I
think is the term.
Happy
now that I have danced, so I thought it was time to eat. Wandered around and
didn't find anything to excite me, including walking through the night market
street food area. Worked my way over to the Disco street and the launch party
for the 'Full Moon' club. Got there just in time for the opening televised
traditional dance. Got some free drinks from a promotions lady I chatted to at
the Top-West last night and some snacks whilst wandering around that had been
laid on for the media people.
The
stage show was really good. Various sections including some comedian dressed in
funny clothing and falling about the stage whilst he was singing. I suppose you
have to be tuned into that one to appreciate it. Solo performances from I
assume well known stars here as they got good response when they appeared on
stage. I like the common Thai electric guitar, with its Naga shaped headstock.
Plenty of bouncy dancers to liven up the show, complete with nice smoke and
lighting effects.
It
was heaving and reservations only for dining, so gave up with getting a proper
meal there and adjourned across the road to the Didine International restaurant for a while. Sat at the city shrine
for a while nd watched the elephants passing. I didn't expect so many elephants
here, but they wander the streets all over town with their mahouts. The same
plight everywhere in that there is no work for them anymore, so life has become
a tourist attraction for them.
I
the name of humanitarian research, I ventured into the Harem club at the Khon Kaen hotel. A full blooded experience with
plenty of performance from the girls and a rock band. Foreigners get ignored as
non one them speak English so don't want to lose face by trying to communicate
as is normal with most Thai people. Got into a group of Thai local lads who
were living it up and having fun and supplied me with tumblers of whisky. Not
much English, but enough to get by with and were totally smashed but fun to be
with. Well scientific research over and time for bed in the early hours of the
morning. It has been a mixed day today, and I feel ready to move on tomorrow.
Fri 9th Oct - Returning to Bangkok today. Aircon buses leave regularly
from the terminal a few minutes away. I used Chan Tours 329 Baht and should take 6hours departing 10:30am. The
superb double-decker bus was very swish. The smart hostesses dressed in pink
provided a good service from the start. Didn't realize it but they provided a
meal, cake, snacks and drinks. I was lucky to get the front seat. Well I say
lucky, but I suspect to be roasted...and sure was. They provide a flimsy
curtain but it isn't enough. Anyway, the vantage point for an uninterrupted
view was worth it. The seats were equipped with massaging for the lower back,
which was a nice touch. The road was clear and well paved for most of the
journey, and punctuated by the occasional flourish of kite sellers on the hard
shoulder. Not sure how many people consider buying a kite whilst they are
driving along? They played a thai rock concert video for the first part of the
journey, after that they left the system off so the passengers could get some
sleep. On with my iPod and continued the journey to some relaxing music. Got to
Nakhon Ratchisima (aka Korat) after 3 hours. I had thought of stopping there to
visit the historical park at Phimai, but was put off by the thought of a city
that doesn't get a great write-up, so skipped it for another time.
The
nearer we got to Bangkok the worse the weather got. Thunder and fork lightening
and dark grey skies. Coupled with the nose to tail traffic, it was the usual
welcome to the city. There had been a few accidents along the way to hinder the
flow of traffic, which didn't help matters and meant that we arrived later than
expected. Oh, and Shiera's been picking strawberries in Farmville back in the
Philippines...now that's another world! To anyone who has no idea what
Farmville is....get an on-line life and all will become clear!
Struggled
with my trolley case across the city..up escalators, down stairs, hitting a few
ankles and getting squashed on the BTS Skytrain with it. I am seriously
considering ditching it already as it is a bit of a liability. Give my good old
backpack any day!
So
having got settled in to the Soi 1 backpackers guest house, time to eat at the
outdoor centre around the corner, then off for some Salsa. A new place I hadn’t
tried before. Called the ‘Flava’ bar at the Dream hotel in Soi 15, I had a
wonderful evening to about 1am dancing with some excellent dancers. It was nice
that after only my second visit to a salsa dance venue here, I got recognize and
welcomed into a few groups of people. So friendly and something I miss when I
don’t dance. The ladies are always interested in a new face as you do different
things to the usual people they meet, so it literally keeps them on their toes.
Sat 10th Oct – Breakfast at my usual haunt of the Elfin Café in Soi 1.
Free Wi-Fi for an hour and nice music to enjoy a relaxed breakfast to. Now, on
with the rest of the day as it is noon already. I have been getting
disappointed with my clothes recently, and need a couple of new things,
especially when I go dancing as it is important to look presentable…this is
Bangkok and everyone dresses stylish on a night out. Some things are just
getting worn anyway. I hate shopping, so not a task I relish that much.
