Sun 27th Sep - Got some bits to do today. Going for a bit of wildlife tomorrow to Khao
Yai National Park. Went there at the beginning of 2008. It was really nice
weather then, but this time of year it is a bit more risky. Rains can make
conditions a bit more difficult and spottings aren't as guaranteed. But I think
it is worth taking the risk as I am heading to the north east anyway. I have
plenty of time but have reached a point where I need to escape from Bangkok
now. The cost is too much and the traffic crazy.
Today though
I got myself a nice light pair of enclosed waterproof sandals and then chiiled
for a bit over a smoothie. One of the hopes I had by coming to Bangkok this
time was to do some dancing. Not done any so far as been upto other stuff. The
Elfin café where I have breakfast almost every day,
hosts a salsa event every Sunday with free
lesson from 3 to 4pm then a salsa party until 8pm. Wanted to give it a try and
see if there are any good dancers there.
As
it turned out the dance instructor couldn't make it until late, so the dancing
didn't start until 4pm. The DJ was new, so a bit nervous. A terrific guy to
talk to. I had the best time I have had in a long time. Excellent dancing, and
really on form with some top quality beautiful dancers and so friendly. As it
turned out, one of the girls there was an organizer for the Salsa Bangkok event
I am going to attend in November. A nice and friendly crowd; small enough not
to crowd the perfect wooden dance floor, but enough to challenge with different
styles. I will be making it again I am sure. Apparently the Dream Hotel nearby
hosts a good event on Friday evenings but I missed that one due to not knowing
about it. There are a few serious dancers around who don't smile so much as
others, but that happens everywhere. By the time we finished it was dark and
the rain was pouring down. The Elfin café also does Milonga on Tuesdays…for
those that don’t know what Milonga is….it is thought of as the predecessor to
tango but was too difficult to adapt to slow music so it sort of fell out of
fashion. The rest of the evening spent recovering and getting ready to move on
tomorrow.
Mon 28th Sep - Quiet during the night so got a really nice sleep.
Breakfast at the Elfin café as usual and then hopped in a taxi to Hua Lumphong
station. If you ask the taxi for a price they will always say 200 Baht. But if
you ask for metered then it cost me 63 Baht. If I had gone there by Sky train
and Metro it would have taken me three separate trains and a lot of sweat and
cost 43 Baht. For an extra 20, I arrived in comfort….Very befitting of someone
with a trolley case now! Always go metered.
The
Ordinary train to Pak Chong cost 36 Baht (11:40am to 15:22) and was the normal
cushioned seat. Good value for money. Whilst waiting at the station I booked
the next leg of my journey from Pak Chong to Nong Khai. Two trains to choose
from, but one was fully booked apart from seating, no sleepers. No way was I
doing an overnight sat up the whole way. The later train was ok so got an upper
sleeper. The departure time is 00:01, so the ticket guy was really careful to
make sure I had the right date as it could be mistaken.
There
was a presentation at the station by who I assumed was the transport minister.
According to one of the information people it was to do with terrorism on the
trains, but it seemed more like a children’s program will small children doing
a simulated ride on cardboard trains across the stage, and toy barriers lifting
up and down. Yes I know...kids can be terrorizing some times!
With
Thai efficiency the train departed on time, and plenty of food vendors passing
through. I had eaten at the station and picked up some snacks, so wasn't in
need.
Soon
out of the northern areas of Bangkok and the first sight of the countryside.
Leaned out of the window and take a breath of fresh air and the sight of
birdlife. Many species wading in the fields and perching on wires. For someone
like me interested in wildlife, I cannot begin to say how sad it is to be in
places with no non-human life at all. Some places are totally devoid. But here
in Thailand there is plenty of it, and hoping to see more over the next days
and weeks.
As
the train was an ordinary one, it stopped at every station along the way, and
consequently arrived a full hour later than the scheduled time. Waiting for me
was Nai from the Greenleaf Guest house. I stopped at this place early last year
and remembered it as if it were yesterday. Really friendly folks. Oi is the
girl on reception and Joe the main tour guy. Had a choice of bungalow for 300
Baht or standard room for 300 baht. Chose the bungalow for a change, now that I
am trying to go a little up market...joke! No sooner had I got myself sorted
than the Light started to fade and I found that the lights didn’t work. Ended
up having to move rooms to a standard 200 Baht type. The same room I stayed in
last time. No hot water here, but then again a cold shower can be nice
sometimes.
The rest of the travelers here at the moment
are German. Not sure of the timing in Germany for holidays but I looked in the
guest book and the past few weeks were only German and Dutch.
Tue 29th Sep – Early start to the day at 7am for breakfast at 7:30am. I
am doing a full day tour leaving at 8am which is the same as I did last time
(Early 2008). It doesn’t matter though, as no two tours are really the same due
to the different time of year. Plus wildlife spotting is random anyway.
The
park is 200 Baht entrance fee for adults, but that was included in the tour
price of 1,300 Baht. After a stop to the visitor centre, which hadn't changed
from the last time I was here...still fairly poor displays. The stuffed leopard
is a bit of a joke, as is a tiny furless baby elephant, both with scary
synthetic eyes.
A
nice trek through the jungle for about 4 hours, stopping for lunch at one of
the watch towers.
During
the day we had spottings of: Rat snake, Barking deer (Muntjak), Couple of
lizards, Rhinoceros beetle, Many varieties of Butterflies, Asian scorpion,
Tractor centipede, Black and white Lemurs, a large pack of cheeky Macaques at
the roadside, some with babies.
After
another break for coffee, we then drove across the park to an area for Elephant
spotting and saw nothing then was supposed to go to another place to watch bats
come out of a cave and didn't make it before sunset as we should, so aborted
that and went back to the Guest House for about 7:30pm. It had got fairly cold
by then so had to put a fleece and hat on. A bit of a disappointing afternoon
really, but animals don't perform to order. I wonder whether it is just a bad
time for spotting as it has been raining and the wildlife has probably moved
else where. No Hornbills which are fairly common here, and much of the
documented animals nowhere to be seen. We heard some noises, but that was about
it.
Arrived
back at the Guest House and had to eat straight away as the kitchen closed at
9pm. Joe knew me from the last time I was here and just asked if I wanted
something special for dinner...just leave it to me he said. Seemed a good idea
and it turned out to be a lovely spiny fish, with chili, vegetables, pineapple
and a nice sauce with some rice. Really tasty and wouldn't normally have chosen
it on the menu, so glad I hadn't specifically chosen it. Really nice evening
chatting to the other travelers, who were all German apart from one Dutch lady.
As
I have a full day tomorrow before my train leaves, it had been suggested I go
into the park again, but their time either on my own or with a private ranger.
Will sleep on it, but it would be a nice use of the day. 200 Baht entry fee
plus 500 Baht for the ranger. They would drop me off and collect for free as
they go anyway.
Wed 30th Sep - I had a disturbed night's sleep, so got up early at
7:15am. It looked like it might rain and so abandoned the idea of going into
the park as they would drop me off early, but I wouldn't get picked up until
maybe 7pm. I didn't want to be stuck in the rain, so decided to just go for a
local walk. Turned out to be a good idea. A couple of hours pleasant walk in
the surrounding countryside photographing plants and bugs. A really pretty wild
passion flower was common in the hedges. I always find when I go for a nature
wander that you have to look closely or you miss things, so slow the pace down
a bit. After about an hour it started to rain, so made my way back to the Guest
House to keep an eye on the weather. It didn’t stop all afternoon. In fact it
kept on getting heavier, so had to just wait and see what happened. I felt
sorry for some new travelers who arrived in the pouring rain, who had a bleak
prospect to look forward to. Time to just read and enjoy a couple of meals at a
slow pace with nobody around.
My
train to Nong Khai was due to depart at 00:01. Greenleaf had only one jeep
going to town at 7:30 so had to take that, which meant sitting at the station
for over 4 hours in the pouring rain. Pak Chong is a small station with only
one small shop which closed at 8:30pm. Boredom soon sets in. Left my case in
the ticket office whilst I went for a short walk into town, but almost
everywhere was closed apart from one 24 hr mart. Time dragged a bit as it does
on these occasions, and my train (69) was 40 minutes late. Left Pak Chong at
00:40.
Thu 1st Oct - I was so tired when I got on the train last night/this
morning that my head hit the pillow and I must have been out within minutes.
Problem was that a fair proportion of the passengers were getting off at Udon
Thani and so the staff came around at 6:30am to wake them up. Could have slept
another couple of hours. I normally don't sleep well on trains, but was so
tired.
Despite
being 40minutes late in setting off, we arrived in Nong Khai at 8:30am, only 5
minutes after the scheduled arrival. The weather was cool but dry. Right
outside the building are awaiting Tuk-Tuks. Plenty of them all vying for
business. I shared one with a couple of other locals into town, stoping at the
bus station to drop one off on the way to the Ruan Thai Guest House. I had booked over the phone a few days ago.
Apparently it is difficult to get accommodation right now, due to the
forthcoming events. I got the impression on the way there that there is plenty
available, so surprised it would be so difficult. Anyway, I had chosen well and
got a nice aircon room, with free wi-fi, hot shower, TV and big bed for 400
Baht a night. The lovely Som speaks good English, and seemed friendly enough. I
very quickly got the feeling that this place is a thriving expat community.
They (we) are everywhere, and most are toting a lovely Thai or Laos girl on
their arms with a smug proud smile that says...look at me...haven't I made it!
And why not, they are lovely and will make their partners happy.
I
didn’t want to waste any time and was feeling hungry, so went in search for
breakfast. I didn’t have to look far and found the excellent Noi & Brendan’s Restaurant and bar
for one of the best breakfasts I have had in a long while. For 180 baht, the
works and a large mug of nice coffee, rather than some tiny weenie thimble you
get at a lot of places. Refueled I set off west to explore the front and
onwards to the Nong Thin Park. I nice
laid back place is Nong Khai, and a place you can warm to easily. I certainly
did. Flanking the Mekong river, makes for a nice setting anyway. Across the
river is Laos, joined by the ‘Tai-Laos
Friendship bridge’, not too far to the west of here. A couple of Wats along the
Kaew Woravut road to see; stopped off at the Meechai wat to get a clear photo of the bridge, and then carried
onwards. The main entrance to the park is joined with the entrance to the Mi Chai Thung Wat. A typical Thai style
building with ornate exterior. The doors were closed so I couldn’t go inside.
Instead I carried on walking around the park for an hour. The locals I met,
which were very few, were all so friendly with a wave or a smile. I couldn’t
believe how good the weather was today; really cool and calm, with no hint of
rain at all. Ideal for walking around. On the way back into town I took a
different route along the Mi Chai road,
stopping at Chaiyaporn wat and bought
some nice Chico fruit for a snack. Most of the wats here aren’t particularly
outstanding once you have seen the major ones in Bangkok for example, but ok
nonetheless. At the junction with Kaew
Woravut road stands the Governor’s Mansion. Free to enter and totally
deserted. I walked around the place for a little while and saw absolutely
nobody. I think they were all at lunch and just leave the place open for
visitors to wander in. It doesn’t take long to do the grand tour of Nong Khai.
Most of it is functional shops, but liberally sprinkled with bars and
restaurants. There are many German restaurants here. Which doesn’t surprise me,
as I haven’t seen any other foreigners since I hit north east Thailand other
than Germans. It is odd how some places attract certain countries to settle in
large numbers. Following a burst of sightseeing, I thought it was time to find
somewhere for a drink and a chat, so ended up in one of the many cafes along
the promenade. This is a lovely place; really nicely done and will be great in
the evening when it comes alive. During the day it is still active. I stopped
at a German run café (surprise surprise) for a smoothie and got chatting to the
waitress. She was pointing out all the Thai and Laos girls that passed by and
had stories ab out them all, and how they rip off unsuspecting foreign guys
with their beauty. One of the girls had even been on TV for her criminal
activities, ripping off one Norwegian guy for a million baht recently. She was
checking me out as she passed I felt, but after what I had been told about her,
I made sure to look the other way! Another scam is that they stay with a guy
long enough for him to let his guard down, make sure he has his own apartment
and when he is not looking, taking a shower or such thing, they steal stuff and
run. Nice girls aren’t they!
A
useful conversation about many things, especially trying to organize some
sightseeing whilst I am here. Many people I spoke to today have offered their
motorbikes and even to take me on a tour themselves for free. Well, nothing
comes free, but wary about that. The main event I am here for though is the
‘Naga Fireballs’ that I have previously mentioned….
The
epi-centre of the Naga fireball event is down river to the east at a place called
Pon Phisai, 45km from here. The pre-cursor to that though is a 2
day event in Nong Khai with promenade evening shows at the Wat along the front
commencing on the 2nd October. Tonight though the front has plenty
going on with riverside barbeques set up on the pavement and also musical
shows. The next few days look to be really nice to be here. The only thing that
will determine the success or failure of it all, will be the weather. And with
that thought….as I sit and write this journal, the rains have just begun…4:15pm
to be precise. How’s that for timing?
Well
back in the Philippines the recent typhoon Ondoy
that has taken many lives and left many parts of Manila devastated is a bad
reminder that it is still rainy season in Asia. Shiera is helping today in a
relief project to distribute help to some of the victims of that typhoon…way to
go Shiera…missing that girl a lot at the moment.
Having
thought I could put my wet weather gear away and just wear dry weather clothes
for a few days, I had to re-think my plan. Was it my fault that the rains
started…maybe someone is watching and turned on the tap just to teach me a
lesson that I shouldn’t make an assumption about anything?
After
the rains stopped I had to go and eat so went for a walk along the promenade to
see what the ‘cultural dance’ event was about. Tonight was the opening ceremony
for the ‘Naga fireball’ season. A stage had been set up at the far end of the
promenade. To get there was interesting as it passes the outstanding Wat Lamduan, with its large golden
Buddha sitting facing out over the Mekong river. Illuminated of an evening and
bristling with activity. A Buddhism even was under way with a guy chanting away
and occasionally chuckling to himself about what he had said. The area flanking
the Mekong comes alive at night with stalls selling food and drink. Picked up a
really nice meal for 105 baht total; Full meal including a large alcoholic
cocktail and a really nice banana pancake. Cheap and tasty stuff.
The
stage was in practice for the opening when I got there, with a band playing
traditional Thai instruments. The dancers that were due on were sitting eating
dinner, so I got a close-up preview of their costumes. Just as the announcers
came on for the televised opening, the rains started…couldn’t believe the
timing…couldn’t have been worse. So they abandoned the opening for a short
while. The rains stopped and then started again, and they played, then stopped
again. I got a bit fed up and so aimed back along the promenade and could hear
them start up again in the distance. I turned around to go back for another
attempt at seeing them and the rains came again, so abandoned it for good and
went into the Wat to see what was inside the Wat. A large seated Buddha and
some ornate painted walls and looking like it had only recently been
refurbished. Rehearsals were in progress for tomorrow night’s cultural show,
but the rains had been so heavy, the ground was a muddy quagmire. Fortunately,
the participants were only in normal clothes tonight. A couple of stops along
the way for drinks and chats with the locals before deciding to go and check
out the Mut Mee Guest House and found
the owner Julian to chat with. I had a great evening chatting with him and then
adjourning to their floating bar for a drink. A business that has now been
running for many years and quite successful. Their boat The ‘Gaia’ I will be
sailing on the 4th Oct for the Pon Phisai trip. Had a little tour on it and looking forward
to it. I very useful conversation too, with many insights into Thai mentality
and how it can affect business. That is a book in itself.
Back
to Nong’s bar close to the guest house and finished off the evening chatting
with Som from the Ruan Thai and a Dutch guy who has been teaching English here
for a while, before heading off to bed. It has been a long day, but a really
enjoyable one. Met some very nice people who I hope to chat with more over the
coming days. Went to bed with a nice feel that this place will be good to chill
in for a few days or so.
Fri 2nd Oct - The
main event of today was a visit to the Sala
Kaew Ku sculpture park and temple, a couple of kilometers to the east of
the town. Billed as a surreal journey into the mystic mind of a Shaman, ‘Luang Pu’ Boun Leua Sourirat. Built over
a period of about 20 years, he died in 1996. Believe it or not it is full of
sculptures…with influences form Hinduism and Buddhism. He basically fell down a hole when he was a kid and came up
thinking he should become a shaman. Something down the hole introduced him to
the mysteries of the underworld. I personally think he hit his head on a rock
and went nuts. The weird sculptures stand testament to the fact that he wasn’t
a normal thinker…as I said he hit his head and went nuts! But who cares…It’s a
nice day out around some interesting stimulating pieces of artwork. To get
there I borrowed a bicycle from the Ruan Thai and set off after having another
enormous breakfast across the road. With that in my belly I had to burn it off,
and I surely did. It was so hot today that I sweated a few kilos by the time I
got to the main highway. The roads are fairly level around here so it isn’t
hard work and the park is well signposted from the highway, so you can’t get
lost.
20
Baht admission fee for foreigners and well worth it I think. It is one of those
places that hits you from the moment you arrive. I enjoyed it and thought that
the diversity of the sculptures was good. One area is a circular compound
accessed through a gaping mouth that you crouch down to get through. A central
octopus like sculpture tells a story in stone as you go clockwise. I am sure
there are differing interpretations but to me it looked like a tale of growing
harmony between a man and a woman, that carried through until they were
skeletons holding hands. But the last statue seemed as if they weren’t talking
to each other and looked bored? Well isn’t that the truth for some people! New
work is still being undertaken, so even though its instigator is no longer
around, the work goes on.
The
temple which is surrounded by carved pillars and statues that shares the site
is unusual, but nothing too exciting inside.
The
cycle back to town seemed easier than the outward journey as it was running
downhill for most of it. There are a few large Wats on the journey, but to be honest
I am watted out, so didn’t bother stopping to look. I am sure they are worth it
if you are into wats though. Shower, fresh clothes and relax after that little
work-out and the sun was shining.
Word
from Shiera back in the Philippines that another typhoon..a ‘Super typhoon’, is
on its way there, following on the tail of the recent disaster with typhoon
Ondoy. Time to batten down the hatches and get food in just in case it gets bad
and she is trapped for a while. I feel terrible that she is there on her own
now and I am so far away.
The
evening was full of stuff. Tonight was the main cultural performance of the
Naga festival. The main stage on the promenade was the setting for a super show full of costume, music and storytelling
about the Naga mythology and what all of this is about. The rains were kind and
finished in time for the show to start at 7:30pm. The grandstand soon filled up
and so I tried to get a position out front so that I could take some nice
photos. As it turned out I got a great position almost in front of the stage
where the dignitaries were. And they supplied me with a seat and some water
too. So lovely of them and completely uninterrupted view. Not that great for
photos though as the lighting was difficult. The show was narrated right at the
beginning and the rest was just the show, but really nice to watch. Any announcements
were all in Thai, so just had to guess what was going on.
After
the show a soft rock band started up at the far end of the promenade, so joined
some locals to listen for a while who wanted to practice their English. A
lovely Pad Thai and a beer to stop my stomach from grumbling about being
neglected, and all was good.
Sat 3rd Oct – A day of doing nothing more than catching up today. Blogs,
photos, chatting on-line etc. The rains top and start and I am sat in a cool
undercover area outside of my room while it all happens. Nice for a change to
not plan anywhere to go.
