Wed 28th Jan - A few things to do today. Was contacted yesterday to say my mail had
arrived at the Central Post Office in Manila… happy at last. Also, my visa
expires on 2nd February, so need to consider an extension. As it happens, the
Bureau of Immigration is close to the Post Office in Intramuros, so decided to
do both things today and then get out of Manila.
Up early and
headed for the San
Augustin bus to the city. They run often enough that I was only
waiting about 5 minutes when a bus for Lawton appeared. That was the easy bit.
The traffic was jammed when we got close to Manila and didn't move for a while.
Also, remember me writing about cryogenic freezing on Philippine buses...yep,
got one of those today. I had to get extra layers out of my luggage, as was
turning blue, and lips were chattering.
Interestingly,
my post had been referred to the 'Department for International Affairs' on the
3rd floor, and in an unmarked office. They had opened my mail, they say by
accident, but I doubted it. The markings couldn't have been clearer. Anyway,
all was in order and happy now.
The
Immigration office was only a few minutes’ walk away on Magallanes drive.
Extended my visa for another 2 months, which costs 4,800 pesos! What
extortion... They have a great business at this price. Had to think about this,
as theoretically, I had decided to take an extended break here, with no plan as
to when, or even if, I would move on. The queuing system entails applying and
paying in the morning and then returning to collect at 4pm this afternoon. A
pain really, as it means killing some time and I had my luggage with me.
Fortunately, Starbucks to the rescue across the road....
Interesting
place to people watch is Starbucks. One guy doing business with a succession of
people visiting him whilst he drank one cup of coffee after another. Others
just passing the day reading a book. Decided to head back to the immigration
office early in case I was lucky, which I was, so escaped at 3pm. I had brought
my luggage in case I was late and had to stop over, but being early and
preferring not to hang around Manila at all, headed back to Silang.
Thu 29th Jan – Woke up this
morning to the sound of drum beats and whistles in the street close-by. Thought
that it was probably a marching band practicing for next week’s fiesta. Turned
out to be a small group of gays doing their rounds. Dressed up and flaunting
themselves as usual, it made for a funny start to the day. They really let
themselves go and have fun.
I had been aware that, although I have been in
Silang for a while on and off, I haven’t really explored it, so we went for a
walk. There are many coffee growers around here and so it is a common sight to
see beans spread out on tarpaulins to dry in the sun alongside the roads.
People who grow fruit on their land also sell their spare outside of their
houses. Another interesting sight is the refuse collection system around the
back streets. No bins, jus people hang the rubbish in bags onto nails on the
walls or on posts. Looks a mess to be honest, but it works for them.
By luck we past an interesting property
advertising an ‘Outreach’ program and so decided to go in. Called the ‘Artreach
Workshop’ and run by a Silang lady Koni Pascual (artreachmissions@yahoo.com),
it is a little haven. She runs courses for disadvantaged children around the
area to come and learn art. Her own works are on display for sale, but not much
passing business, so she doesn’t sell much, although it is high quality and
diverse in style. On the same premises dance and music classes are run, and so
it offers much potential for involvement in the community. I agreed to re-visit
later in the evening when Sheira was at work to talk some more.
Having not seen a map of this area…and no
actual street map of Silang available from the municipal office, as tourism
hasn’t reached here yet! I was surprised to find that there was a small river
running through it where a public swimming pool had been created, supplied with
fresh water from a small waterfall off the rocks. Unfortunately, it isn’t
maintained and the area was filthy with refuse. This is something I find a lot
here and in the Philippines in general. Maintenance is almost non-existent, and
nobody takes responsibility for public cleaning. With labour as cheap as it is
here…200 pesos a day at the poor end of the scale! It would be a simple task to
have a crew of people cleaning up for some extra money. So why doesn’t happen?
I had been commenting to Sheira for a while
that Silang lacks restaurants. There is only one in the whole area, the
Balinsasayaw that I have mentioned a couple of times. Apart from that there are
only small cafes and a JollyBee fast food place. It was a surprise to find a
nice little new place tucked away down one of the side streets that Sheira
didn’t know about, as it had only been open since December 10th,
called ‘Kubo Ni Opang’, which means Nipa Hut of Opang, the owner. A small
bamboo lined little restaurant with open atmosphere. It cost 61 pesos for both
of us to have lunch and drinks…about 95 pence total….Eating out cannot get much
cheaper than that!
In the evening I took my laptop back to see
Koni and spent a few hours chatting about my interests in Stained Glass art
work (have a UK qualification in this), and also about business opportunities
in the Philippines in general, and the associated practicalities. Her daughter
had put together a superb video about the outreach and Artreach programme which
we watched. The main problem with
anything is the financing of course. The government do get involved in
sponsoring some of the work through provision of materials, but there is still
much of the money has to come from donations, and they are hard to find. The
current programme and location has been in operation for a couple of years,
with plans for a few more centers at other towns in the area. Finding people
with suitable skills to get involved is a challenge for her, but she is a bubble character with plenty of
enthusiasm to make it succeed. A lovely evening and a nice contact to make.
Fri 30th Jan – Domestic day and some catching up. Another walkabout later in the day.
Each time I see another part of the town I realize how big it is and how rural.
A large part of the area is coffee plantations, and a very common site is
mounds of coffee beans ready for drying, or ready for processing, as this is
the main season for harvest. No more rains now and each day seems hotter than
the last. The summer will continue through to about July, with temperatures up
into the high 30's.
Finished at a
Korean restaurant called Icoh, on the
main highway. Being early, we were the only diners. Across the road is the Riviera golf resort, where the wealthy
play and socialize, many Koreans, and so this restaurant is ideally placed for
business. Spotless and excellent quality. Remembering from the experience in
Manila, that Korean meals are all supplied as a Set, containing many dishes, we
had one main course only. Complete with the accompanying set dishes, it was
plenty. 500 pesos including drinks. An unexpected
sight on the walk back, was a group of brothels/pick-up bars on the main
highway. The red light by one of them was a giveaway sign. This place is full
of surprises!
Sat 31st Jan – A friend from China had been in the Philippines for the past two weeks
and unfortunately, I hadn’t managed to meet up yet. Had arranged to meet in
Manila today as she goes home tomorrow. Up early to catch a Starliner bus.
Almost no traffic for a change and got into Manila in record time. Thought
there might be something happening around Rizal park today as part of the
Tsinoy celebrations, but nothing. The last time I went there with Sheira it was
crowded, but today, fairly empty. Nice to sit and chat for a while and people
watch, before moving on to the old walled part of the city around Intramuros.
In the
evening went back to the Havana bar where I had done some Latino dancing the
last time I was here. The band was superb, but it amazes me how almost nobody
dances here. Upstairs is a beautiful wooden dance floor which is completely
unused. A total waste.
Sun 1st Feb – Out
of Manila on the 8am bus back to Silang. Today is the start of the three
day fiesta in Silang. A friend of Sheira's was holding a party at her house,
and so we gathered in the afternoon. Videoke…what else! Singing, food and
drinking the afternoon away until around 9pm. Went out for a short while to
watch a military band playing on stage in the Plaza.
Mon 2nd Feb – Today is the
main day of the Silang Fiesta. Marching bands wander through the streets in
costume. Unlike the massive Ati-Atihan we had been to recently in Kalibo, this
is a relatively small affair, due to the compact nature of the streets. The
main Plaza / Town square, is overrun with stalls and the chaos of traffic
trying to squeeze through, although most of the traffic had been barred from
entry from the main highway. As with most of the smaller provincial towns, life
centers on the main church, with many sellers of candles and worship
memorabilia. The traditional food is also prominent, especially rice based
stuff. A gelatinous cake is everywhere in different flavours and topped with
cooked coconut…yummee. Another favourite of mine is Special Piaya…A flaky round thin pastry filled with a sweet bean
paste. Really tasty….but….with a downside….sorry to be a bit coarse here….makes
you fart a lot! Not to be taken to excess!
Wandering around the streets we got distracted
by a gay group who did a personal performance of a routine with fire eating and
drum music. Funny when they wanted 500 pesos …Gave them 50!
A major part of the Fiesta are the family
gatherings, and almost every house has a videoke machine blasting music and
out-of-tune voices into the ether. With a number of adjacent competing noises
and the busy streets, it is chaotic and went on ‘til the late hours. Most
families will gather for the whole three days and just sit, eat, sing and walk
the streets.
The precession is actually in the evening when
the town march the streets with candles in a circuit starting and finishing at
the church, lead by floats carrying statues of Christ. The precession is lead
by clergy, who subsequently carried out the mass when it terminated at the
church entrance. As the congregation gathered from the streets, the Nuestra Senora Candelaria statue was
dismounted from the carriage and then run into the church so that it couldn’t
be touched. It is then mounted into an opening above the alter. Didn’t stay for
the whole mass as we were hungry and so made an escape after half an hour.
Spotted two foreigners in the crowd…we are a rare beast around here.
After the mass a televised talent competition
was held on the plaza stage. Stopped to watch the first three contestants, who
were only 13, 14 and 16 years of age. Amazed me the quality of their voices for
such young ages.
Tue 3rd Feb – Felt like
some fresh air out of the town today and so went for a Picnic at Picnic Grove in Tagaytay. Not as nice as
the trip to Caleruega recently, but worth a visit. Apparently, it used to be
better as they have now let much of it deteriorate. The old cottages that could
be rented have been taken apart and ruined shells only remain. Litter
everywhere and no maintenance…the irony is that they charged a 50 pesos per
head admission fee, which they didn’t used to do. Like most things…the cost
goes up and the service goes down. Anyway, it was still pleasant afternoon,
with a grand view over the Taal volcano. It seems as though everywhere in this
area is designed to overlook the volcano. One thing they have that is different
is a zipwire crossing a small valley. 250 pesos a head. Seemed over priced for
what it was, but plenty of people giving it a go. Could also do horse-riding on
a small eco-trail. This is the second public horse-riding centre I have seen
here. The other also in Tagaytay by the Filipino Pacgor Casino.
Wed 4th Feb – In contrast
to the busy past few days, a casual day today…late out of bed after watching
the Tom Hanks movie Terminal last
night. The rest of the day fairly ordinary...sorry, it happens...
Until the next time folks..bye bye...
