Fri 21st Nov - Today's objective....Christmas Cards. I know it
seems early, but I am in a Christian country and not sure whether I would be
able to easily get cards in the Philippines. Here they are easy to get hold of
and the post office is close by. So managed to get them posted.
The rest of the day to fill now, so headed off
to the Sabah Museum and cultural village. A short bus ride south and was
chatting to a girl on the way in who turned out to be one of the dancers on her
way to work. She looked so different when I saw later dressed in traditional
costume. The site consists of the outdoor village which comprises many
traditional Borneo houses reconstructed in authentic fashion surrounding a lake
setting. Very quiet today and a peaceful walk around on my own. Mot houses had
their differences of materials used and the way they adorned the interiors. One
of the houses was very colourful with striped wicker and straw hats and
colourful sash materials suspended from the roof. Most were faded and had a
homely lived in feel.
The museum building is a bit odd. In front of
the entrance is a dinosaur and suspended above it is a man in a hang
glider….now what’s that about then? The rest of the building is devoted to
areas covering the different forms of traditional dress, all very colourful,
especially the ceremonial clothing. Not very big so didn’t spend much time
there. For some reason the folks in traditional dress weren’t doing anything,
and there ws no sign of them doing anything either, so didn’t hang around and
went back to town as the sky was about to turn and it threatened to rain soon.
Was hungry so went for a Vietnamese ‘Pho’ which
was interesting. Bits of stomach and lumps of something that looked like
jellyfish floating in amongst the beef and noodles. It all went down ok, with a
bit of help from some chilli and a good imagination! And then it poured it down…see…wasn’t
disappointed!
Sat 22nd Nov – Taking Air Asia Flight AK5833 departing at
9:30am. 1hr Check-in time and had paid for one item of check-in luggage up to
15kg. If you pay in advance only costs RM5, but RM10 if you pay at check-in.
It had rained all night and it was still lashing
it down when I woke up. Didn't feel like struggling to the airport it was so
heavy, so booked a taxi and got there in 10 minutes as there was no traffic on
the road, and too early for check-in. Usual scramble when it did open, and why
is that there is always one person who has to continually snort and clear their
throat while you are stood in the queue. Maybe they do it as a technique to
jump a queue, as everyone wants to get rid of them!
The flight got delayed as there were incoming
flights arriving late, which threw everything else out. The rain had cleared up
earlier, so the views were now stunning as we left KK behind and the vast
expanse of forest lay beneath, broken up by patches of pure white clouds. The view of
KK from the air is attractive as so many of the buildings are colourful. I saw
the Sabah Museum building that I visited yesterday, with its unique 'Rongus'
style roof, and close-by the state Mosque, with its golden patterned roof. Made
for some nice aerial phorographs.
Arrived at Tawau at 11:15. A really pleasant airport in a nice setting
amongst a valley of palm oil plantation. As we landed the sound system on the
plane was playing 'Wimoweh'...the lion sleeps tonight...in the jungle, the
mighty jungle...the lion sleeps tonight...etc. Very fitting I thought.
Noticed a couple of
foreigners waiting at the baggage reclaim, so agreed to share transport
together. A nice pair of Dutch guys who had been doing a medical internship,
and fitting in some holiday before going back to Holland.
Could have taken a minibus into Tawau (RM10 around
half an hour ride) and from Tawau take one of the many minibuses going directly
to Semporna (10RM and a little over an hour). But one
of the guys was feeling ill after having too much to drink last night, so we
shared a taxi. The driver had to stop a few times for him to be sick...not a
good start! Only took just over an hour to get to Semporna for RM95, and got
dropped at the 'Dragon Inn', as had heard this was the best place to stay.
Wow!......awesome is the only word I can use. A village of stilted houses in
the water in the most beautiful of settings. I chose to stay in the Longhouse
dormitory for RM15 a night. Pleasant staff, wonderful character, ferns growing
on each post, little shack style bathrooms, the greenish water below...just
beautiful. Motor boats ferrying people and goods around..all so laid back. The
individual rooms start at RM60, which is still good for this location.
Much to see, and
also need to meet up with the company I am diving with http://www.billabongscuba.com, so off for
an explore. The access pier to the Dragon inn is common with a covered stilted
promenade area and the Pearl Floating Restaurant. The size of some of the fish
in the 'Floating tanks' were enormous and the view from the end of the pier was
lovely. Semporna has a large market and a mosque which looked interesting, and
out to sea, the shores are lined with stilted water shacks in every direction.
Certainly not a boring place.
The Billabong office was helpful enough and
efficient. I had already paid up-front back in KK, so all I had to do was to
pay the Sipadan Marine Park fee of
RM40 for tomorrow, and confirm the dives I wanted to do. Whilst I was there, in
walked a girl I had met at the North Borneo Cabin hostel in KK. Small world as
usual!
Diving predominates here, so many of the premises are
diving related, and the rest are food related. On the face of it, not a pretty
place once way from the waterfront, but functional with some development going
on.
The covered market was excellent. I loved the down to
earth, laid back style. One area for fish, were very welcoming as I was taking
photographs, and wanted to pose for the camera, and shake hands. Kids were
running up to take a look at the results and beam from ear to ear with gorgeous
smiles. The fruit and veg section was run mainly by older Muslim ladies
resplendent in their colourful clothing, spread cross-legged amongst their
displays. One lady was selling wood medicines. One such bundle of knobbly
twigs, which were boiled to make a drink, she explained was for use by pregnant
women to ease sickness. Every part of the Asian continent rely predominantly on
old methods of treatment, although modern pharmacies exist are in plentiful
supply. If it works...use it! It is times like this that I am happy to be on my
own, just drifting through a market, chatting to folk, exchanging smiles,
observing everyday life. Some times are for sharing, some times for interacting
on my own.
Time to eat, and where best but on the street. Lots
of good choice and friendly purveyors that made me feel welcome. The rains
started and made a good opportunity to stay put for a while.
A nice group sharing the dormitory, one I had met in
KK, who was at the same hostel as me. Becoming a regular habit now, meeting the
same people going the same direction. Nice in a way as we then catch up on each
others experiences.
Many people come here mainly to dive the infamous Sipadan Island reef. The problem is that
the numbers of dive permits issued are limited, and due to its popularity, are
often sold out. So many people have to stay extra days whilst they wait for a
permit to become available. Diving Mabul
and Kapalai does not require a permit
though, so you can dive them whilst waiting for Sipadan. More on that later....
At night the boardwalks around the longhouses of the
Dragon Inn are lit up, and it becomes even more attractive. It is so quiet
though, hardly anyone here. Their pricing is a bit odd. The room prices are
very cheap considering the location, but everything else is expensive. They
have internet at RM10 per hour. It is RM2 in town. They have Wi-Fi, but don't
know the password for it...so what's the point having it? They wanted RM5 to
rent a towel. Everywhere else is RM2. The attached Pearl restaurant is much
more expensive than anywhere else, and hence was empty. I suppose that it is
still low season. In high season it would be heaving.
Went out for a meal and chose a place close by that
had good food but was marred by a gay waiter/waitress who wouldn't go away. I
left at the point where he said he loved me and did I love him back! Told him
to leave and departed the restaurant quick...no doubt which hormones i've got!
Sun 23rd Nov - I am
booked on to a 3 day/2 night dive trip with Mabul Backpacker for RM850 which I
booked through Excel Dive & Tours in KK. As already mentioned, the company
actually running it are Billabong. Met at their office at 7:45am to take a boat
to Mabul Island, where I am at a Home stay in a
traditional Malay "Tiang". A wooden-house, build on stilts
in the water. Funny start...first got into a nice boat, then
asked to transfer to another smaller boat, and soon after asked to transfer to
an even smaller boat. The guy flew off like a bat out of hell and hit every
wave with a thud. My backside was sore after a while and my stomach wasn't
feeling too clever. The approach to Mabul island is an attractive one and
passes numerous outcrops of Tiangs at the water's edge. Many tiny vessles in
the middle of nowhere, with their owners patiently rowing along, which must
take them hours to get anywhere. One old couple had a great rhythm going..she
steering and paddling at the back, him lying back and paddling the oar with his
feet!
To the left
of Mabul the Seaventures oilrig platform looms up in outstanding fashion
against the tropical island appearance of the main island. Painted in vibrant
colours, looked dazzling against the sky.
No sooner had
I been offloaded onto the Tiang where I would be based, but told I had to get
kitted up immediately as they were ready to leave. I was feeling rather dodgy
at this stage. Stomach not really in a fit state, and a day's diving ahead!
Quickly
asked the guy in charge to borrow an underwater camera...100 ringgits a day!
And was away in a few minutes with no time to check any of the dive gear they
provided.
First
stop the infamous 'Sipadan' for a couple of dives. Before diving we had to stop
off at Sipadan island to register and have passport details checked against the
permit allowance.
The
first dive was at 'Mid Reef' and was a fairly dramatic dive. Noticed straightaway
that both of my fins were split and they didn't have any spares, plus the wet
suit was so tight, I could hardly breathe. Feeling queasy to start with, it
just made matters worse. The dive sight was pretty and many fish to see,
including some nice sharks and a massive shoal of Barracuda and a snazzy
Leopard Moray Eel. After another 45 minutes dive, an hour's break back on
Sipadan island. A fairly laid back place with turquoise waters lapping against
the white sand. Peanut & chocolate sandwich...now that was a mistake! The
second dive was at Barracuda rock, which was odd considering we didn't see any,
they were all at the first site! What we did see though was stunning...a carpet
of multi-coloured corals, amazing array of fish (numerous Goby, Dragonet,
emperor, Blenny) and turtles, sea stars, sharks, and the most exciting part for
me, was the 'Nidibranches'. Other wise known as 'Sea slugs'. They don't have
shells...that would be sacrilege as their bodies are stunning. Every colour
imaginable and ideal macro photography subjects. I loved them more than the
fish...so pretty.
Back
to the Mabul base for lunch, and feeling even more dodgy now, so couldn't face
much lunch but tried to force something down...another mistake!
I
was thrilled to hear after lunch that I would be diving under the Seaventures
rig, so was looking forward to getting kitted up again. Only a short boat trip
and then off to explore. Fascinating...Pygmy Seahorses, Crocodile fish, frog
frish, sharks, but most of all, a world of contorted cast-off scrap metal that
was now home to myriads of fish. After about 30 minutes, I started to feel
bad..had to surface and throw up...big style. My head was about to burst too,
so back in the boat. A quick look around the base...clear waters with plenty of
fish and Sea Stars (Knobbly Sea star, Granulated, Noduled). Had to sleep for a
while and take tablets when I got back to base. A few nice photos to show as a
result, but same about the pukey bit...yuk!
Woke
up and it was dark...missed the sunset...bugger! Couldn't eat much for dinner
is feeling a bit delicate, so listened to my stomach and ate lightly. Slept
like a baby.....
Mon 24th Nov – well, woke this morning feeling much better, and
raring to go. Had a small breakfast just in case though. Another 3 dives today.
First one was amazing, at Kapalai. On the way out a frog fish was swimming
close to the surface, so we brought it into the boat for a closer look. Strange
thing, but interesting. This dive was exciting because it was a wreck site.
Many boats to explore and sealife to observe. A few highlights were box fish,
enormous cod, a few different eels like the Blue ribbon eel, with its yellow
frilly horns.
The second dive was totally different at Lobster reef. So many beautiful Nudibranches, Turtles, Lizard fish,
Scorpion fish (Common & Zebra), Crocodile fish, Stone fish, Harlequin Ghost
Pipe fish, Yellow-Banded Pipefish, to name but a few.
A nice break for lunch back at base. A passing
boat was selling slipper lobster for 10 ringgits, so I bought one for my
dinner, which the kitchen will cook for me.
Final dive of the day was Kapalai mid reef. Not too exciting for large sea life, but nice for
macro life, especially nudibranch. I am getting better at spotting these now.
Most are so small they are only a few centimeters long, and not all bright.
Some are dazzling purples or yellows. They are gorgeous and intricate. Some are
well disguised with frills and lace
on their
bodies.
Today has been a good day and diverse in
sightings.
To top it off, plenty of time before dinner, so
off base to look around the island a little. This is a beautiful place.
Relaxed, happy, so many people young and old stopped to say hello and chat. One
old man swinging in his rocking chair was a gem to stop and talk to. Once they
know I come from Liverpool, their eyes light up as football is held in high
regard here. They soon think you know every football player they have and are
intimate with them all. Sorry to disappoint...i 'm not much into football these
days, but play along as it makes them happy. The sun was setting and the smoke
from beach fires was evident on the Seaventures side. Ramshackled huts lining
the beach and small group of youths playing guitar on a rickety jetty. Palms
silhouetted against the fading light, everyone sat on their porch or on a
jetty, winding down after a day in the slow lane of life...just idyllic.
My Slipper Lobster was cooked to perfection, and
tasty. Another guy had Mantis Shrimp, another local delicacy.
Tue 25th Nov – Not diving today, but still awake early with the
roosters and the sound of boat engines revving up. Good to have a relaxing day
to just explore. This island is beautiful...not a brick structure here other
than the school. All random little havens for their occupants. Many are
postcard style, with pretty gardens and overlooking the turquoise waters. I
have to say that it isn't the cleanest of places. Sign up everywhere saying 'No
Littering', and yet there are endless mounds of rubbish everywhere. The waters
are strewn with debris and anything they don't want has been discarded there. I
walked as much around the island as I could, some areas off limits as part of
resorts with access warnings. Some stretches of the locals beaches were like toilets,
with a revolting amount of excrement, mainly the young children I assume, as
they know no better. All this aside, it is an idyllic place...life in the slow
lane. Even though I saw a school, I don't know when they go as most of the kids
I saw were playing volleyball, or swimming, or fishing for food for the day.
They become very proficient at an early age on catching all forms of sea life
for survival. No species is protected and I saw them walking along with the
most ornate of fish, all fair game. Most probably don't bother with an
education, I reckon they learn what they need to live, and that's all. For the
first time in a long while, I had many children and even a few adults come up
to me and ask for money. There is that contrast, the exclusivity of the resorts
adjacent to the poverty of real life. Sea shells were in abundance for sale as
well as corals. I don't think they know much about conservation, if they can
catch it and sell it, then no worries...on the way back I was stopped by a
couple of students with a video camera, wanting to film an interview about
tourism in Mabul and safety for tourists. I don't see this place as risky at
all, but they must have felt the need to ask.
A couple of hours tops and I had covered the
island, and that was walking at local pace...I like Mabul, not pretentious,
just basic and with a feelgood factor. As for the place I have been
staying..basic, friendly, good food, and with all the facilities you need...not
ostentatious. Back at Billabong there was a group of guys from the Malaysian
tourism agency, who were part of the same survey team as the girls who had
stopped me. My main problem or concern that I told them, was that it is ok to
expect foreigners to be eco-friendly and not litter, but the locals don't seem to
have a respect for their own island. He had to agree, but there seemed little
they can do. There is also a tidal issue...rubbish gets dumped and the tides
bring it straight back to land again, but that could be sorted. They could
clean it up, but nobody seems to care, apart from the resorts who just clean
their own little stretch of beach and then fence it off.
Returned to Semporna around 5pm along with a
couple from Denmark who had both passed their advanced diving course today, so
were excited. Straight to the Dragon Inn again and checked into the dormitory
Longhouse for the night...and would you believe it, bumped onto the gang I had
been in Kapit in Sarawak with again. Good to catch up again. This is the third
time I have met with them. Needed to head to town and check out the bus
arrangements for tomorrow morning. No problem according to the reception,
shouldn't need to book ahead. Rule number 1...never trust anyone when your
timing depends on it. There were no big buses running tomorrow, only a single 10-seater
mini-van. Booked a ticket for 40 ringgits, leaving at 7am. Glad I went and
check it! Needed some more cash...there are two ATMs here with two terminals
each. The queues were down the road and had to stand in line for approaching an
hour, and then the machine went faulty. Typical, but fortunately the other was
working. Then another chance meeting with a couple I had met in the hostel in
KK. Borneo is too small and everyone is doing the same things, just maybe in a
slightly different order.
A nice meal at the Malibu Steak house...don't
expect much from the steak! It was a meal, and that is about all I can
say...but knew half the folk in the restaurant...we're all following each
other!
Scuba Junkies were celebrating their fourth year
of operation tonight, so a band was playing and a party going on, which could
be heard over town.
Wed 26th Nov – Not sure what was going on last night, but I was
itching like crazy in bed. Had to get up a couple times to look at my skin
under some light. A couple of what looked like bites, but no rash anywhere.
Might have been something they wash the linen with? At 5:30 I was still itching
and so got up to have a shower, which felt better. It was raining, but that
felt nice. Fortunately, it eased off a lot as I was about to leave for the bus
station. Stopped at a little café for breakfast and asked for eggs on toast, to
which they agreed...for some reason, they heard that as coconut jam and bread.
No...scrambled eggs on toast...ok...fried eggy bread arrived. Sometimes you just
have to accept they don't do things the same as you might think. On the
mini-bus to Sandakan and off before 7am as it was full. One other foreigner
from Ireland also going to the same place as I am - Uncle Tan's Wildlife camp (http://www.uncletan.com).
I arranged this from Kota Kinabalu, and the lines were poor.
The e-mail was down, the phone-line was out and the mobile intermittent, so
managed to just get the message through with my name and arrival date and will
sort the rest out when I get there.
A short note about Semporna… As a base to arrange diving
from, it serves its purpose. Small, enough eateries to satisfy, and enough
travellers to provide some nightlife. Like anywhere it is developing, with some
more buildings going up. The few big resorts there are, are well sectioned off
from the rest of the area, but few people stay here. Had it not been an
advantage to pre-arrange the Sipadan permit, I would have left it until
arrival, and almost certainly would have gone with either 'Scuba Junkies' or more
likely 'Uncle Changs', as they are more prominent, and I think cheaper. At the
end of the day..it's the same water and the same reefs. Billlabong was ok and
friendly, so no complaints.
Uncle Tan's is buried in the jungle of the
'Kinabatangan National Park', rated as the best place in Borneo to see
wildlife. On the list should be Proboscis monkeys, Pygmy elephants, Crocodile,
lots of birds. Back to nature above grounds after a spell of marine nature.
Arrived about 1:30pm and got dropped off at 14
mile Junction roundabout. Only a 300 metre or so walk from there towards the
centre. Nice location for Uncle Tan's and free internet and wi-fi whilst
waiting. Over the next couple of hours a few more people arrived. A nice lunch
provided whilst we waited for time to head for the boat. A briefing document is
provided with the itinerary and rules for the trip....no swimming in the river,
as there are crocs about! Beware stealing macaque monkeys...all that sort of
thing. We were to stay in basic raised huts with mattress and mosquito net, and
they make sure you know that it is basic!
After about 90 minutes ride in a minivan we
arrived at the old ferry port to board small boats for the journey down
Kinabatangan river. A nice start to the
adventure, as we spotted a few troups of Proboscis monkeys, plenty of
Macaques, a Monitor Lizard and a couple of Hornbills on the way to the camp.
Borneo is the only place where you can see the Proboscis monkey, and in this
area they are common.
Off the main river and into the Mangrove to get
to the camp site. Right in the thick of the forest and as we were told...basic.
Accommodation was in open shacks, with wire mesh screens, a mattress and a
Mosquito net. As the documentation says...this is no Hilton! Time to smother in
bug repellant...
A small generator provided some power from about
6pm so that we could recharge batteries and torches etc, so that was useful.
The campsite was shared by their own Monitor Lizard and a few bearded Pigs.
Happy as a Pig in Sh..t, as this place is muddy!
After dinner off on a night safari by boat. The
water level is high now due to heavy rains, so the boat can pull up right in
front of the camp. Mainly saw birds, and fortunately, of a night they don't
move much, just perch themselves on a branch and sit there. About five species
of Kingfisher (including the gorgeous Stork-Billed and Blue-Eared varieties)
plus a large owl. It amazes me how they navigate these areas, but they are born
and bred here, and know it intimately. The boat heads towards another
non-descript patch of green and through it to another lake on the other side.
You or I just wouldn't know where to go.
After the safari I was so tired that I just went
to bed and was out like a light in no time.
Thu 27th Nov – Woke up at 5:30am to the sound of rain pattering
against the roof. Lay there for a while enjoying the sound before making the
morning toilet run. Basic...Macaques soon make an appearance, scavenging for
food scraps. They can smell the kitchen starting to prepare breakfast for when
we get back. The staff have to spend much of their time fending off the goods
from the rampant monkeys, or they would steal everything.
Back into the boat for a couple of hours and
were lucky to see plenty of Proboscis monkeys, Hornbills, Darters (aka Snake
bird), Kingfishers, and most of all Orang-Utan - 'The wild man of the Forest'.
Only saw one, but it isn't that common to see them, and they don't move much.
We saw the same one on our way back later, and all he had done was turn to face
a different direction. Most of the primates are high up in the trees, so hard
to photograph. The Proboscis monkeys are active and spend a lot of time jumping
between trees. Not sure if that is due to our appearance though. It frustrates
me that a boat full of fluorescent orange life-jacket wearing tourists, might
just not be what the animals we come to see want in their neighborhood, so
scarper off as soon as we appear. Not a very subtle approach. I hope it will be
better on foot. In every case of bird spotting, they flew as soon as we
appeared, which at least makes for easy spotting, just not good for
photographs.
Back to camp and a simple breakfast of pancakes
smothered in peanut butter and fried bananas with coffee like treacle. Who
cares about the calories!
Next venture was a walk in the woods at 10:30.
Conditions are so muddy now that we had to wear rubber boots. No point in
trashing a good pair of walking boots, so better to wear what they provide.
Didn't see and large animals, but plenty of small life. Camouflaged tree frogs
that adapt their colour to the tree they are on, dart frogs. About a dozen
different brightly coloured varieties. Some awesome bugs..the Lantern, the
cotton bud spider were amazing. Many large Millipedes with one notable one
being the 'Tractor' millipede, due to the scales on its back being like treads
of big tyres. This one was interesting because when you rub its back, it gives
off an Almond aroma.
Another outing on the boat later before sunset.
Thought this would be a good time for spotting, but saw only a few monkeys and
birds in the distant. On the way back to camp a pretty 'Cricket frog' fell in
to the boat from an overhanging tree. That caused more of a commotion than the
rest of the trip oddly enough. Variety of frogs rate about the highest in
number of photographs I have taken. The camp is a good source of fun as the
Macaques try to raid food whenever it is unattended. Their antics are hilarious
and their expressions so sweet, you just have to have a soft spot for them.
This place is like a conveyor belt, as one group
arrive another leave. Even though it is low season, they are kept fairly busy,
and very welcoming to everyone. Uncle Tan is no longer around as he died some
years ago. The family keep the place going on in his name, and the operation
has now been going for around 33 years I think.
Last trip of this adventure was a night safari
at 9pm, following a nice dinner. Back on with the rubber bots as heading into
the swamp again...this safari was excellent. So many frogs, bugs and birds that
I almost lost count, including some cool spiders. Spotted a Tarantula but it
was high in a tree and wasn't going to make a closer appearance to have its
photo taken. Photographic opportunities for most were superb although the crowd
were all fighting for position as expected. Was ok though as everyone was
patient and the creatures didn't mind having camera flashes going off
continually. I think it stuns them so that they don't move.
Twice into the swamp in one day was a treat as
it is great fun sloshing your way through the mud with continual squelching
noises as you have to pull free from the suction, without your foot coming out
of the boot. You're only a kid once, so you may as well enjoy it!
I thought I would be tired, but felt like going
out exploring on my own to get some time to just wander. Turned out to be the
right thing, as I saw a couple of Civet cats with their beautiful markings, and
of course...more bugs and frogs. I like just being in the jungle on my own at
night. Not scary, just full of noises and that makes it interesting, wondering
what it is that is making the noise. Snakes are the only real thing to be aware
of here, but a torch-light in their eyes is ok to ward them off....and carrying
a stick helps. I definitely did sleep after that.
Fri 28th Nov – Was due to depart Uncle Tan’s at 10am, but woke
up early at 5:30 anyway. Not sure why as was still tired. Tried to get a space
on the morning safari but they were full, so donned a pair of rubber boots
again and went out into the swamp on my own. Saw some more great frogs again
and a few lizards plus about five large water monitor lizards, so worth getting
up early. Left the camp on time and headed back up the Kinabatangan river and
then back to base. Got them to drop me off
at the Sepilok Orang-Utan rehabilitation centre in the afternoon. Which
is about 1.5km from Tan's. They say it is next door, but I think they are
stretching things a little!
They are really friendly there and have a free
luggage store with big lockers for backpacks, so no worries about arriving with
my stuff. Cost 10 ringgits entrance, and 30 ringgits camera fee. This latter
charge is a joke as everyone has a camera!
Feeding time at 'Platform A' was at 3pm,
accessed via a short boardwalk into the forest, and on queue they turned up,
about eight of them. During the next half hour or so they played around, drank
milk and ate bananas and being endearing as always. A couple of babies ere
there with their mums, being very attentive to their needs. Luckily it wasn't
busy today as I had expected, so nobody jostling for space. There was a TV crew
there from National channels TV1, 2 and 3. The rather cute presenters were nice
to talk to...yippee...they were filming for a children's programme as well as a
national advertising campaign. I later learnt that there is a conference here
tomorrow on tourism, which I was invited to, so will think about that.
Jumped on the awaiting 'Batu 14' bus to Sandakan
about 23km away, that departed at 4pm. Cheap at RM4 and dropped off in town by
the main bus station by the water front.
Found a simple but ok place on the water front
for RM18 (Sandakan Harbour Square B&B at HS10), and run by a lady, Pauli,
who could also arrange my trip to Selingen Turtle Island, so left it with her
to organize and went for another shower. Being a solo traveler makes it more
expensive to go, but I am flexible and happy to share. Luckily, she found
someone for me to share with for day after tomorrow, so that is sorted. Will
cost 300 ringgits including an overnight stay and all food. Excited about that
as it was the only reason I had come here to Sandakan, otherwise I could have
gone straight back towards KK.
Out to explore but didn't get far and stopped at
the Café Bistro for some Satay and a
beer. The staff came for a chat straight away and had a nice time, so that was
nice and welcoming. Plus a few familiar faces appeared from recent travels.
The lady who owned the place came for a chat and
we got on enormously. She invited me back to her house, a beautiful place out
of town. A member of 'Couch surfers', she and her family were so nice. Her
housemaid was an 18yr old Filipino, doing as many do, earning money to send
home. She was very hospitable and gracious. It is part of their nature to call
us Sir, and be there to look after you. In fact, Malaysia is a country were the
ladies really look after their men, and are very dedicated in that domain.
Being here is very difficult for her, as she won't be able to afford to go home
for Christmas; Philippines is a poor country and they have to go were the work
is. My host and I then went off to the 'English Tea Garden' by Anne Keith's
house ( a place of local historical interest). A lovely time of really nice
conversation over a pot of Sabah tea, and some wicked Blueberry and Lychee
crumble with ice cream. Rose was a lovely lady and made me feel so relaxed and
welcome. I have had a wonderful day, and met some marvelous people. Times like
this when the travel experience is so enriching.
Having just heard about the troubles still
plaguing Thailand with renewed bombing attacks on the airport and gun attacks
happening in the north around Chiang Mai, one of the most outstanding things
about this country is the lack of conflict. It is the most easy going of the countries
I have visit so far in south east Asia, and another that figures very highly on
the list of places I could easily live in. As they are Islamic, they believe
that a husband can have many wives. This can cause conflict between the wives,
and learnt of the devious nature of one wife to 'dispose' of another wife from
the relationship. In general it works and they accept the fact that a husband
can share himself between his wives. This is something that wouldn't work in
other religions. They also believe that you come into this world with nothing,
and leave with nothing, and your future is in the hands of god, so they don't
believe in palm reading, tarot, horoscopes etc. Most Malaysian women would like
to find a foreign husband who they would care for lovingly, but that person
would ideally have to convert to the Muslim belief system for it to work,
especially if they continued to live in Malaysia.
Rose is also partner in a new venture similar to
the Uncle Tan's wildlife camp I have just been to, called 'Bilit's Adventures'.
It is in its early stages but taking guests who arrive at the guest house. I
saw the new publicity documents that have been produced for it, and it looks to
be a nice place. Still basic like Tan's, but with options for chalets if required.
No web link available yet, so cannot pass on the details.
Sat 29th Nov – Seem to be getting
into the bad habit of waking up early without having enough sleep. This morning
was no exception and was awake before 6am and still tired as didn't go to bed
until 1am. Simple breakfast and the day ahead to recover…or so I thought. The
phone went at 8:30am asking if I wanted to go to the Malaysian Tourism
convention. How could I refuse as it promised to be an interesting experience?
Arrived at Sepilok at 9:30 to queues of cars, so
it was going to busier than I had expected. It was actually a promotion for a
couple of new projects aiming to attract more tourism, or at least build on the
systems they have already put into place. One such project, called ‘Zoom’, is
very much aimed at improving awareness of the opportunities for wildlife and
especially bird spotting in Sabah. Some beautiful folk in traditional dress
greeted attendees and the throngs of press were there to capture it all for the
media. The conference was to be introduced by the Minister of Tourism, Dato’
Sri Azalina Dato Othman Said, a very energetic and enthused lady, plus the
Minister of Tourism for the Culture & the environment, Datuk Masidi Manjun.
Fortunate for me they repeated their speeches in both Bahasa Malay and English.
It has made a big impact for them when Air Asia initiated the reduction in air
fares recently, making it easier for both native Malaysian people and
foreigners to get around quickly and cheaply. As a symbol of opening the project
they released three cages of pink-necked doves at the end of their speeches.
As a bonus I was able to get the time to go
around their plant discovery centre, a really well laid out area full of
beautiful specimens. As part of the activities today, the Zoom youth team were
doing a plant spotting challenge and so were ‘zooming’ all over the place on a
time limit to answer questions from a question sheet. Was a great atmosphere
and ideal timing. A nice buffet lunch followed and I was well looked after by Rose
and a local tourism exec. Monica. The perfect ambassadors of Malay hospitality.
The afternoon heat was getting stifling and had
to run for cover before melting, so decided to curtail the visit to the
conference and head back to town, and Rose had to go to work mid afternoon
anyway. On the way back to town there were a few interesting sights. First stop
was a roadside sticky rice seller, who was cooking the rice ready for later.
They stuff bamboo cane with the rice, then bore a hole down the centre of it,
which they fill with coconut milk. These bamboo tubes are stood in front of a
fire for around 3 hours to cook, and turned a quarter turn every few minutes.
The bubbling milk at the top was a nice aroma.
Further on back into town and past the new and
very decorative Chinese temple in the area of Sim-Sim, which is an old stilled
Tiang style housing area, all painted in lovely random colours and surrounded
by pretty gardens on their verandahs. Many of the old folk have moved on from
here and now it is occupied my many Filipinos. Next the City mosque, a rather
austere but modern design and past the ‘Crystal Quest’ jetty where I will sail
from to Selingen Island tomorrow morning.
I was glad I made the decision to go along today
as I was planning to have a catching up day, but that would have been far less
interesting. Thanks to Rose for the call!
Took a walk around the town later in the
day....Sandakan is an interesting place. According to the tourism conference
today, they see the potential in the Sandakan as being a 'Jewel in the crown'
of Sabah. The Zoom project plus a development in the 'Birding' here will see
many changes over the next few years. The area has the highest number of
species in the state, and Sepilok specifically is being targeted for enhancements
to attract more tourism. The town is currently undergoing some building work
along the waterfront, which will see more shops and hotels. The problem as I
see it though, is that Sandakan is a bit jaded in the grimy old buildings
dominating the impression you get. Unless they remove them, it will not improve
its reputation and attraction. That said though, it has all you need in a town.
A market which was interesting to forage around, where I bought some nice
fruit, a few nice restaurants, but in need of more, and easy transport
connections to all important places. The central local bus station will stay
where it is, although I think it will throttle some development opportunities.
The view to sea isn't the most attractive, as there is a naval jetty that has a
generator continuously pushing out an annoying drone. I am sure this will all
change though?
Not surprisingly, theft is an issue here, due to
the level of poverty. A fair proportion of the residents are illegal Filipino
immigrants, who jump over here from Zamboanga. The more up market areas are
well protected with security razor-wire on fences and alarms, plus you have to
be careful leaving anything on display in your car. I must admit to not
thinking about safety or security in Sabah as a problem until I came here.
Met up with Rose again in the evening for a meal
at a 'Steamboat' restaurant on the hill overlooking the northern part of the
town. Packed with groups of locals as tonight was buffet night. As much as you
can eat for 18 ringgits. A 'steamboat' is an aluminium dish in the centre of
the table heated by gas. You cook the raw ingredients as you require. A nice
atmosphere of conviviality and a nice view of the lights of the city. Still
early, so off to the Sabah hotel for some music. A beautiful place with
attractive swimming pool, which you can use for 2 ringgits a day as a
non-resident. There was a 28th year school reunion in full flow when we
arrived, and sounded like they were having a nice nostalgic time. Took me back
to a 25 year works reunion I attended in 2006 in the uk. Some folk were as if
they hadn't changed at all, whilst some were noticeably older. All full of
character and great stories to swap.
The Amadeus
bar was cozy and had a three-piece band playing a good range of music. The two
lead girls (plus a guy on vocals/keyboards) were good, although not very
animated. A bit more enthusiasm might have improved the ambience, but they were
good anyway.
Sun 30th Nov – Up early this morning to see the sun rise. A
beautiful large red/orange glowing ball with little cloud cover, casting its
light across the sea towards the town. Quiet streets as the place came to life.
A fish market fairly busy with the day's catch.
Theoretically I Was being collected from the
B&B at 9am to sail at 9:30am to Selingen (aka Turtle Island), but as the
time neared, they received a call to say that the boat was broke and the people
due to come back to Sandakan were stranded there until they fixed the boat.
They only have one boat and a competitor company charged too much money for
them to hire it temporarily. So I was offered a refund or go tomorrow instead.
If I went tomorrow, then I would definitely get there as a priority customer
and they would pay tonight’s accommodation at the B&B as it was their
fault. I am in no hurry so agreed to go tomorrow. The B&B told them I was
in a more expensive room than I actually was, so I got a free night in a better
room at the expense of Crystal quest. Gave me an extra day to look around the
area and think about my plan for after I return from the island.
It is roasting already and it was only 10am, but
decided on an attempt to visit the Puu
Jih Shih temple, south of the town. Started off walking and had to take a
few breaks as the temperature was climbing. Hadn’t had much breakfast, only
some toast and a coffee, so stopped off at one of the many Roti shops, where
for 1 ringgit you get a Roti and sauce of your choice. Most locals live off
these as they are so cheap.
Back on the road and could see the temple in the
distance and it seemed much higher than I expected, so decided to take
transport to get the rest of the way. Not sure why, but the buses I stopped
didn’t want to take me there although I reckon they would pass it, and a few
minivans would either, other than for a rip-off price. After a while, I gave up
with them and bartered with a taxi driver who got me there. I was glad I
decided not to walk, as the road has some steep hairpin bends and a sharp
climb, and is much further than expected. Once at the temple, it was a treat; Lovely
view of the bay and the Pasir Putih
area below, and a nice garden below. Very ornate and colourful design with the
usual ‘Swastika’ integrated into many aspects of the design. Many people here
today, who seem to be local villagers, rather than tourists. In fact many seem
to use it as a place to sleep as there were bodies strewn in amongst the yellow
cloth draped aisles. Possibly because it was fan-cooled in here. Their homes
are the normal wooden stilted shacks, so would be hot today.
After a while of looking around, the challenge
of getting back down to town. The taxi driver wouldn’t wait, and there is no
direct bus. I asked people for a lift and they all refused. Even a Malaysian
tour bus wouldn’t take me to the bottom of the hill, even though they had
space. Doesn’t promote a good image considering they want to enhance their
tourism as propounded yesterday! I walked for about a kilometer or so and found
a bus stop after being charged by a couple of snarling dogs, who were going to
get a serious injury from an umbrella if they came any further. Not much of a
deterrent I know, but the best I had! Fortunately, didn’t have to wait long and
a bus appeared. Only cost me 1 ringgits to get to back to town. The buses are a
bit like in other parts of Malaysia…warn out and falling apart, but a welcome
sight in the heat.
Arrived back in town to find a market set up
down one of the long roads…nice and functional. Nothing like the Gaya Street
Sunday market in Kota Kinabalu, where local handicrafts abound. Here, the
market is definitely just everyday products, with some healthcare stuff
included. Get yourself a full check-up on the pavement…heart, blood pressure,
etc. How about your teeth…are they ok? Try some herbal medicine…or just buy
some new jeans and stuff your face full of some tasty little sweet snacks.
The afternoon was interesting, as had arranged
with Rose to meet up and cook a meal together. Went to a Filipino/Indonesian
open air market to buy some catfish and prawns plus some vegetables. Next to
the supermarket to get other ingredients and a bottle of wine. Not much choice
other than a sweet Californian white, but that will have to do. Rose was to
concoct a traditional Malay menu that had us all involved including the
housemaid. Was interesting and the results were worth it. A nice spicy sauce
for the catfish and some awesome mushroom soup plus other dishes to complement.
Out in the evening to one of Rose's other
sidelines in running a Satay stall on the waterfront and then off for a drink
at the lovely new Ba Lin bar on the
rooftop of the Nak hotel. Playing Latino
music and with a cool breeze wafting over, it was a nice spot to relax. Unique
in Sandakan I gather, so should attract some discerning clientele. They had a
high section which you have to pay 300 ringgits to use. Ok for a party, but not
worth it for others. The shame is that it has a clearer view of the sea, which
is otherwise obstructed. Had a nice chat with the manageress who is obviously
keen to promote her bar and especially to see a foreigner there.
Mon 1st Dec – A slight confusion this morning, as I was due to
leave the B&B at 9am on the delayed trip to Turtle Island, but got a call
at 7:45am that I had to to the Sandakan Hotel to meet the transport for 8:15am.
A rush and no time to take a shower before leaving. Transport arrived and I was
the only one waiting, and that was with 'Wildlife adventures' so I was puzzled,
as my booking was with Crystal Quest. Then the driver talked about a 45 minute
drive to the meeting point, whereas I thought that the boat left from a jetty
only 5 minutes from here... All will evolve...
Had a brief spell on the net this morning and
was dismayed to hear about the troubles in Thailand. My good friend Victoria is
currently there and semi stranded as all airports have been closed due to the
bombing attacks and general mayhem that seems to be troubling the country. One
of the reasons I am saddened by this, isn't just because it is a troubled
country, it is because Thailand is one of the few countries so far which I felt
I could live in. It is a beautiful country and the current situation will
subside, but it does cast a shadow over the security of life in the country. I
have also heard from friends that that the dance scene is improving in Chiang
Mai, one of my favourite cities. I will be keeping a close eye on progress and
see whether it is viable to return there next year or not. I am really looking
forward now to heading for the Philippines soon, as I will be meeting up with
another good friend to spend some time travelling and spending Christmas and
New year with.
Another factor I have been thinking about is
that Malaysia is fast becoming so well connected to the rest of the world, that
it does form a good base to live and travel from, and it is a stable country to
live in. So many possibilities but haven't been to the Philippines yet!
The journey this morning turned out interesting,
as the minibus I was picked up on, ended up at Sepilok Orang-Utan centre.
Surprised me a bit considering I was going to Turtle island out in the bay. As
it happened, we were to pick up another two people, a lovely couple of 18yr old
girls from Australia, one who was drop dead gorgeous and would have given Kylie
Minogue some serious competition. Plus a couple who I think were newly married
(her wedding ring was dazzlingly shiny) and she spent the whole time grimacing
at him without hardly speaking a word and didn't talk to anyone for the whole
time. He probably couldn't get it up and fell out on the first night of their
honeymoon...Either that or she was just naturally a miserable sod?
From collecting them, we went to a jetty in the
jungle for a magic boat ride with just five of us down a mangrove flanked
river. The lighting today was perfect, creating some nice shadow areas in
amongst the banks and scattering a mottled pattern on the water. After about 20
minutes the river broke out into the Sulu sea, with a lovely postcard image of
a colouful yellow and blue rowboat sat in front of a small pretty island
against the crisp blue sky. First stop was lunch at Libaran Island. A pretty place where we watched a video on turtles
and the whole life cycle. An hour to kill before lunch at noon, so walked along
the beach, which was pretty. Old guys lazing in brightly painted boats with
their kids, or just relaxing in the shade as too hot to be out in the sun.
Liked the many well-used fishing nets hung up along fences ready for further
use. A lazy pace in a lazy place!
Lunch was a four course meal, and I have to pose
a question here. Why is it that whenever you get a meal included, they never
provide drinks? Always have to buy from them at some crazy price. You would
think they would provide something. We did have a glass of orange on arrival,
but nothing with the meal. They laid the table with coffee cups but whisked us
away before serving it!
Back on the boat and off to Selingen Island. This place is idyllic. Pure white sandy beaches,
palm trees and crystal clear warm water. No wonder the turtles come here...such
a nice place to get laid...the eggs that is!
Got a lovely air-con room with nice service. A
guide to tell us everything we need to know. Nothing much happening for the
rest of the day up until dinner. The turtle activity starts at night, as will
be explained in a bit. Well, the sun is up, the sky is blue, not a cloud to
spoil the view, so off for a wander. A couple of minutes walk and onto a
perfect stretch of white sand. Old weathered tree stumps and flotsam to make
beach combing interesting. Had a swim and the water was like a warm bath.
Peaceful and nobody about. As I say, idyllic...
A bit about turtles, and the reason for being
here....
The history of sea Turtles is supposed to date
back maybe 135 million years, as the oldest reptile species around. Their major
deficiency is that their body temperature regulation is poor, and so they
cannot be out in the sun for long. They need to breathe air but are perfectly
happy with long periods submerged. They mate in the water, with the male
climbing on-board and holding on with his fins until he has had enough. A
number of males can try to mate with the same female at the same time, and
sometimes she gets drowned in the process. When she is ready to lay her eggs,
she makes her way to the beach and as mentioned, body temperature is poorly
regulated, so this is done at night. She has to clamber up the beach and dig a
hole upto 30 inches deep, into which she deposits the eggs. After some 50 to 60
days, the eggs will hatch and the newly born have to scamper for the water as
fast as they can before the predatory birds and monitor lizards eat them. And unfortunately,
humans eat the eggs too, which sell at a high price.
To assist in the success rate of their chances
of survival, the Selingen Turtle program harvests the eggs as soon as possible
after they have been laid. Ideally, within 2 hours. The temperature at which
they are incubated in the sand is critical. Hot sand produces males, cooler
producing females. So, they deliberately transplant the eggs into a protected
'Hatchery' area, where they are monitored and any that emerge are put into the
sea. This is something we help with doing as part of our time here...if we are
lucky enough that some hatch that is.
Nesting happens throughout the year, with an
average of 30 nests being dug every night. In the process of digging of course,
the Turtle could damage previously laid nests, but that cannot be helped. They
lay their eggs about every 2 or 3 years, and are mature between 15 and 30 years
old. How do they return to this island? They navigate using the distortions (lay
lines) of the earth's magnetic field. Clever little devils aren't they?
It was possible that we could be up at some
ridiculous hours during the night, so were advised to catch an afternoon
siesta...zzzz....
Dinner at 7pm and there is a nice exhibition room
to absorb everything relating to turtles and other aspects of marine life in
this park. Then it was just a waiting game, as turtles can arrive at any time.
There are two species predominantly found here; the Green-Back and the
Hawksbill. At about 9pm the call from the ranger of the start of the 'Program'.
Everyone had to rush off to the area of the beach where a mother Green-back was
laying here eggs. She had been there for an hour already digging the nest and
creating the pit into which the eggs would fall. Everyone had to guess how many
eggs had been laid and the nearest got their name for the turtle. In this case
she laid 37 eggs, which are slightly larger than a ping-pong ball and very soft
and it became known as Catherine. Good job it wasn't Roger or John for example
who won...not good names for a female turtle! We weren't allowed in front of
her, just the rear as it is a sensitive time for her. They say it looks like
the turtle is crying, but a salty solution comes out of their eye ducts that
gets washed over they eye when they are out of water. For anyone who felt they
could take photographs, they needed to pay a 10 ringgits permit to the ranger.
No flashlight and only the ranger's weak torch allowed, so lighting impossible
and not one person got a photograph who paid. An easy source of money for them
when they know it is impossible. I didn't bother as it was more interesting to
just watch. The turtles' measurements were taken, and her tag number logged, as
they record all information to check for first time arrivals or repeat visits.
as the eggs are laid, the ranger removes them to a bucket. The mother doesn't
know this of course as it all happens behind her. Once she had finished laying
eggs, she fills in the now empty pit with her hind fins and is then left to
recover before returning to the water. So we depart for the next phase of the
'program'. The hatchery as mentioned earlier is sectioned into species and part
covered to promote the growth of males. A pit had already been dug about 80cm
deep and the eggs were deposited and filled in. Different depth for the two
species as the Hawksbill eggs are smaller and only buried about 40cm deep. Once
again, impossible to take photographs, but folk tried. The final stage in the
'Program' was to release hatchlings into the sea. About 50 cute baby
greenbacks, frantically whizzing around in a basket were tipped gently onto the
sand a couple of metres from the water, and allowed to run for it, with the
help of us to make sure they didn't go astray. So sweet to have them scamper
over your hand. The sad reality is that they have so many predators, that only
1 or 2 percent will survive to adulthood, hence the need for this level of
protection. So that was the end of the 'Program' and thank you ladies and
gentlemen, I hope you enjoyed this program and let's say than you to the
ranger...applause from the crowd... Not being cynical here, but if it is a
personal contact experience you are after, then this is too organised. I asked
the guide what happened for any other nestings that happened tonight, and we
are not told about them, only the first one. Everyone is thanked for coming and
hope you enjoyed our program and you will leave the island at 6:30 in the
morning. Did you enjoy it? We were asked. Well, it is beautiful and a privilege
to see and worth it, but I personally, would like the opportunity to be with
the rangers and study the turtles more and spend more of the evening following
other nestings, but you cannot do it. Why not? I was prepared to stay up all
night and I am not part of a tour group. I know they have to protect the
environment for the Turtles..that is why this park is here, but what they have
done is make this a tourist attraction, and an expensive one at that. 300
ringgits for basically a 30 minute 'program', albeit in a paradise location, is
a lot. For someone fanatical about wildlife, it isn't sufficient, but part of
tonight's group was a large group from a well known tour company and some form
of control has to be imposed, or there would be beer drinking nutters running
all over the place trying to ride a turtle or let's see how many turtles we can
stack on top of each other to make a fun photograph for the mates back home!
Sorry, whenever I see certain large tour groups now, I sometimes feel that the
operators are trying to sensationalize a sensitive situation, to cram another
experience into the tour itinerary. So let's now fly to another destination and
play party games whilst the wildlife watches us in disbelief. Those of us with
a deeper interest struggle to get a quality experience on our own, as they
pander to the mass tourism market and we get left out or have to pay stupid
prices for it. Also..let's feed you but then overcharge for drinks, and let's
extract another camera fee from you. Tourism takes over in a bad way. You only
have to try and do a unique experience as a solo traveller, to find out how
difficult it is to organize sometimes, as the large tour companies have taken
up all the spaces, and we are pushed out or forced to pay exorbitant costs to
do anything. What I want is this...when I approach a company to do something,
that they ask me...what do you want to do? What kind of experience are you
after? Ok, let's organize it, and at a fair price. Instead, all I get is having
to fit in with the organized tour package...take it or leave it.
Tue 2nd Dec - Left Selingen at about 6:30am, and stopped off at Libaran island
for a nice breakfast, before returning the way we had came, back to the
mainland. Arrived back at the B&B in Sandakan at 9am.
It had been suggested that I should stay on here
for the ‘Hari Raya Festival’. An important date in the Muslim calendar, but
that doesn’t happen until the 8th/9th December, and would
like to be in the Philippines by then. I had considered as mentioned before,
entering the Philippines by boat from here. The boats leave on Tuesday and
Friday (leaving at 5pm and arriving about mid-day the next day), and cost RM250
for economy and RM280 for better class. The boats are better than they used to
be, as one of the earlier ones sank. This is apparently common in and around
the Philippines, as the regard for human life is low and maintenance is more or
less non-existent. Zamboanga is in the Mindanao province, which is considered a
bit dodgy for foreigners, and even some locals are scared to travel there. So,
the alternative way to get into the Philippines is to travel back to KK by bus,
and then arrange a flight over to Clark airport north of Manila. Crazy
considering I am closer here. I could take a risk and probably would get
through Mindanao without any troubles, but I am not into taking that sort of
risk these days.
Decided to stay another night and catch an early
bus tomorrow morning. Well that was the theory...didn't turn out that way...
Got onto the Air Asia website and booked my
flight to Manila for the cheapest time, and will be leaving KK on the 5th
December, then got a call to go for lunch at the Hawaiian restaurant nearby. They
had a set lunch for 10.90 ringgits and was pleased with the steak I had.
In the afternoon I Went to the 'Agnes Keith's House'
with Rose. Agnes Keith came to Sandakan in 1934 from Illinois, when she married
a forest conservationist Henry (Harry) George Keith from the United Nations
agricultural department, and after who the largest flower in the world is
names…the Rafflesia Keithii. An
authoress famous for three books - Land
Below the Wind, which covered life amongst the locals during the British
era; Three Came Home, detailing times during her time as a Prisoner
Of War in the hands of the Japanese on the nearby island of Berhala, and
subsequently moved to a camp in Batu Lintang in Sarawak, and finally White Man Returns, about the post war
period in Sabah. The first and last books were written at the house on the
hill, where she had a good view of the town and Sulu sea. The house has been
restored and made into a museum. A nice colonial design with clean and simple
layout and artifacts preserved from the original house. A lovely location and I
could imagine it being stimulating for a writer. An amusing ‘Kelvinator’
Kerosene powered fridge is on display that allowed the early explorers to keep
themselves supplied with cold drinks and ice-cream when they were on their
travels in the Borneo jungles. Some photographs are on display showing tribal
people eating ice-cream from a bowl.
Returned to the co-located tea rooms for
afternoon scones with clotted cream
and a pot of tea in a lovely location with lovely company. Rose decided to join
me to Kota Kinabalu tomorrow and we will drive instead of taking a bus,
allowing the possibility of stopping at some places along the way. Really
pleased with that.
Today has been a changeable day, with plans
moving by the second. I also learnt about some future conservation
possibilities in the Kinabatangan Park that I am interested in for the future.
I like days that go random and conversation leads to interesting prospects as
it diverts attention from just travel related stuff.
The evening was spent drinking wine and watching
Hindi DVDs…took me back to my time in India and visiting Bollywood movies at
the local cinemas. A flamboyant culture that makes you want to get up and dance
with them.
Wed 3rd Dec - Drive to KK with Rose, going via Poring Hot Springs. On the way to
Poring Hot springs we stopped at a sign at the side of the road advertising
Rafflesia, 1 minute walk. A few locations on the same road. I learnt that these
are transplanted out of the forest to a fake setting near to the road by
trackers, who charge 20 ringgits to see one flower! The one I saw was smaller
than the two I saw in Cameron Highlands. Makeshift shacks for an entrance and
the flowers surrounded by bamboo screen. Site patrolled by an old guy. They
have a great little business at this price. They do it as many people don't
want to go trekking into the jungle to see the flowers, so they bring the
flowers to the people!
Carried on towards Kundasang to spend the night.
This is an expensive area as it close to the Kinabalu National Park entrance,
so attracts lots of visitors. A room for the night cost 100 ringgits, and that
was lucky as peak season would be much higher.
Thu 4th Dec – Headed back to KK in the morning and stopped off
at the Menara Tun Mustapha building @Mosphere for a coffee where I had been
before. The difference this time was that it was revolving. A slow pace and
gives a changing scene whilst having a nice coffee.
On the way out diverted into the Tun Mustapha
museum, the first minister of Kota Kinabalu. The best bit though, was that
there was a rehearsal going on in the auditorium for a forthcoming world music
show, so went in to see what they were up to. At the time, they were practicing
for an African tribal dance, with one of the guys giving me a nice photo
opportunity with his spear. Had to find somewhere to stay for the night and
after a while got fed up comparing places and it had started raining, so
stopped at the ‘Stay-Inn’ with free wi-fi and breakfast. Friendly and ok.
Have had a lovely time recently and will be sad
to be leaving Sabah. Yet again finding somewhere with nice possibilities and
lovely people, but saying goodbye for a while. Not too difficult to return at a
later date though, so will see how things go in the Philippines. Checked the
newspaper this morning and the weather has lead to some floods and loss of life
east of Manila. It is that monsoonal time of year when you just don’t know what
the next few days weather can turn out like. Fingers crossed.
I think that is about it for now. The next
posting will be from the Philippines……
