Mon 17th Nov - After a good night's sleep with less
disturbances than last night, it was time for some sightseeing. Got the city
bus (yellow) for RM1 to the Menara Tua
Mustapha building north of the city. This is supposed to be nice in the
evening to see the city lights from. It is also home the @Mosphere bar and restaurant. On the walk from the bus I spotted
two enormous white-breasted sea eagles soaring overhead. Whipped my camera out
and...that heart stopping message...no SD memory card inserted. Damn, I had
left it in my laptop last night...bugger! So no photos then....had a walk
around and then thought I should go back and get my card. Took a different bus
back as it passed first. Bus no.1 was more interesting as it went around the
village of Likas. A down to earth
place, full of non-city dwellers and shacks. A nice feel to it and glad I took
this bus instead of the city bus again.
After picking up my card and having a re-think
about the day's plan, I decided to go and check out the Air Asia office around
the corner for a flight over towards Semporna, the connection place for
Sipadan, Mabul and Kapalai for diving. Made a quick decision to book a flight
for the 22nd Nov to Tawau, the nearest airport. Could have taken the overnight
bus direct to Semporna taking 10 hours or so, but wanted to take advantage of
Air Asia's cheap flights. Cost 127 ringgits total, so nice and cheap and only
taking 50 minutes. Will then have to get to Semporna, but that should be easy
enough.
Well, now I have a flight booked, just needed to
sort out the diving. Checked out some options and booked a 3 day/2 night
package at the Mabul Backpacker lodge. Was going to do the Seaventures package which is based at a converted oil rig platform,
but that was 1200 ringgits PLUS a 50% surcharge for me being a single person!
And this didn't matter if I shared with someone when I got there...still the
same surcharge. Now, why is this? I hate being penalised for being a single
traveller. There is no excuse at all and spoils the opportunities. Anyway, have
booked a deal, and will spend a night in Semporna before getting picked up on
the morning of the 23rd. Should get 6 dives in, spread around the three islands
and can extend when I get there if I want to. There is a RM40 fee to pay when
entering Sipadan itself. The Malaysian government forced the removal of all
dive operators from Sipadan as part of a conservation move. So now everyone has
to stay outside of the area and pay a fee to enter. Sipadan by the way, was
made famous by the entrepreneurial influence of the late Jacques Cousteau . I remember as a kid being hooked on his sea
adventures, thinking....one day...that might be me....well...in a few days
time...it will! Rated as one of the top ten dive sites in the world, everyone
who goes reports a jaw-dropping experience. Bring it on!! I might even do my
advanced diving course whilst I am there. Even if I don't I was offered an
internship deal by the guy I have booked with, for a special rate to dive as
much as I want from KK, and do and of the courses for a good deal too. Much to
think about....
Well, after a bit of time melting my credit
card, needed time to recover, so off to Little
Italy for lunch in celebration of the excitement....and watch the beautiful
ladies of KK pass by. Isn't life wonderful!
May as well have another attempt at seeing those
eagles now that I have a card in my camera. This time I took the OMO bus
destined for UMS (University of Malaysia Sabah). Still only 1 ringgits, and got
talking to a couple of girls who were studying Japanese and taking their exams
tomorrow! I was impressed, as it is a hard language.
Got to the Menara Tun Mustapha building and was
lucky enough to see one of the eagles soaring around. Thought it would be nice
to go to @Mosphere, which is located on the 18th floor of the building. It is a
rotating restaurant, but not during the day. The views of the surrounding area
are wonderful, and must be even better on a clearer day. It was now overcast.
The interior is a bit 1970's funkadelic, with retro-modern seat and bright use
of materials, including swave wavy cups, a cappucino was the natural choice to
soak up the view and the laid back music. The dining here would be very chic,
although a bit pricy. Atmosphere is just what it exudes....
Walked back along the coast road and stopped off
at the city mosque. Surrounded by a large moat, the reflections in the water
make it a good photo opportunity.
Was supposed to get an early night to feel
refreshed for the morning, but didn't manage it as there is always something
happening to warrant staying up for. Played guitar again, so enjoying a bit of
indulgence with that.
Tue 18th Nov - Mount Kinabalu climb today. Got picked up from
the hostel at 7:15am and then drove for 2 hours to the Kinabalu Park HQ. Apart
from myself, joined by a french couple on the minibus to the park. Didn't speak
much during the journey, but we did get talking later. As the road climbs to
the mountain, a veil of mist gave way to a stunning view of the mountain, set
against a crystal clear ble sky. It's a long way up there!
Durian sellers abound along the roadside, and
the lower terrain is a carpet of jungle in every direction. It is going to be a
superb day I think.
After registration, proceed to Timpohon Gate, the starting point of one
of the two available routes. The climb took about five hours and is tough. Non
stop uphill with some fairly large boulders to navigate. The compensation
though is the awesome environment. For anyone, like me who loves nature, it is
a beauty. I saw so many varieties of wild orchids...a large array of pitcher
plants, one of which (Nepenthes Villanosa) was the largest I have ever seen.
The colours of the vegetation was astonishing too. As the climb progressed, the
scenery changed from multi-coloured dense vegetation to more open alpine
terrain. The range of coloured mosses was noticable and the drop in temperature
too. About every half kilometer there is a rest stop, with toilet
facilities...very tourist friendly. The mountain squirrels were in abundance
around these areas, scurrying around looking for cast off tidbits.
The overnight base at Laban Rata hostel is about 6km from the start of the trail and
3290m above sea level, and occupies a fantastic location facing west. It is
split into two, with the option for extra cost to stay in the main building, or
the hostel part Gunting Lagadan, a
further ten minute climb up the hill. It is essential to have a torch and
plenty of warm clothing as it was only ten degrees when I arrived. The prediction
was that it would go to freezing as the sky was fairly clear. We were lucky as
previous days had rained every day from the afternoon onwards....wet and cold
do not mix well...a good recipe for a miserable experience if you weren't
suitable clothed. I had brought a random collection of clothes which all went
on and I must have looked like a vagrant. The last time I had done this was in
Laos, when I was with Victoria. We had put all of or clothes in for laundry and
the temperature plumetted. Had throw on anything that we had, which looked a
mess, but felt great.
After a quick rest....it had been hard work
getting here...dinner was a full buffet of good food and free flowing hot
drinks from 5:30 onwards. The sunset was awesome...contton wool clouds drifting
around with a slight breeze, and the diffusion of golds through to pinks giving
a dynamic light show, with the occasional flash of lightening in the distance.
A flat area just below the lodge was a good spot to see the sunset. It also has
what must be one of the most awesome locations for a volleyball net! Imagine a
ball going over the edge...your turn...I went last time! Actually, they use the
basketware balls that are common here, so they don't bounde much, so ok really.
Back in from the cold and hands around a nice
cup of coffee. The atmosphere was wonderful, everyone happy and chatting as
many groups appear at random who started out later in the day.
After dinner was the climb back to the hostel,
up a rough track with a torch. There were a few folk who had set off before me
with no torches and were on their hands and knees feeling there way. Ridiculous
really to come to somewhere like this without a torch. A few were struggling to
breath and were quite old, so I guess might have mis-judged what was involved...it's
a mountain!
Wed 19th Nov - There had been a school group staying in the
hostel who were so noisy last night. Consiering we were expected up early,
their leader didn't seem to have any consideration for others staying there.
Had to wake up early to start the ascent at 2:30am to the summit, Lowe's Peak at 4092.5m above sea level.
It must rate as the toughest climb I have ever done. Starting off with a mass
of people queuing at the start, it eventually thinned out as it got harder.
Already at a height where the effects of oxygen depravation begins to take
effect, the higher I went, the more difficult it was to breathe properly, and
the heavier my heart was beating. Taking regular breaks in the dark with a
bitter wind blowing made the ascent heavy going. I do think I am in fairly good
shape for my age, but this was pushing me quite a lot. The thoughts of giving
up started to enter my head, but then I looked upwards, and in the faint light
that was reflecting from the clouds I could see many torchlights and the
outline of what looked like the top. Then I reached that point to find there
was plenty more to go, at near 45 degrees, with many sections requiring ropes
to pull up on. It must have only been a couple of degrees...fingers were numb
even with thinsulate gloves on, and my nose felt like it could have been
snapped off!
With my heart working overtime and shear
determination to not give up, I made it to the peak. Many people vying for
their photo by the height record sign. Many people had fallen by the wayside
and returned to the lodge unable to carry on. Not a problem, as it is more
important to recognise your limits and stop when you feel it is too much. The
guide confirmed that many have had heart attacks doing this! Helicopters cannot
reach this heoght, so they have to be stretchered off the mountain down to a
lower altitude.
As the amount of light increased, the view was
stunning. Clouds bubbling away a few kilometres down below, the sun breaking
over the horizon, the tired sounds of fellow climbers wilting under the strain,
accompanied by the burgeoning outlines of the granite rock
formations...fanbloodytastic!
I ached in places I didn't expect, but that
didn't matter now...everyone shakes hands and congratulates each other.
After catching breath and thinking that enough
energy had returned, time for the descent back to the lodge for breakfast. This
is the point when I always feel more pain than going up. With constant pounding
of my joints and having to lean so far back as I walked to stop breaking into a
run, the legs react with a few grumbles. The guides who do this regularly must
have muscles of steel!
At this altitude not much grows, but what does
can display a minute beauty. Beautiful flows hidden amidst hardy leaves
battered by constant winds, but still in full display...magic...
Made it backto Laban Rata at 7am or so for
breakfast. A superb choice of western offerings and hot drinks...didn't touch
the sides. I was starving by that stage. At about 8:30am started to descend
back to Timpohon gate, arriving at 12:30pm. That descent was a killer. A while
ago I had a bit of a knee injury, which has left me with a weak right knee. Boy
did I know about it. I was in agony and had to side-step for nearly 4km with
pains shooting through the cartlidge and requiring more than regular stops.
Will be back to normal once I get some analgaesic treatment on it. A great
coincidence on the way down...bumped into the two guys I went to the longhouse
in Kapit with. A nice surprise. Another thing I love about this country is
their respect. The amount of people who stop to talk are many and all addressed
me as sir! Nice and friendly people to talk to, young and old. I never cease to
be amazed at the strength and toughness of some of the peoples of the world. The
porters here work so damned hard. They have to carry huge boxes, heavy gas
canisters, food packages and heavy
bundles of building materials up this mountain, suspended on their backs from
straps around their foreheads. They push on relentlessly, with sweat pouring
from them like rain...but onwards they move...you have to be in awe of these
guys!
Every year there is a climbathon here, rated as
the toughest in the world!, where superhuman nutters run up and down this
mountain in times you just wouldn't believe to be humanly possible. If you were
to take out the breaks and add together the actual climbing time, I probably
did it in about 12 hours (plus breaks). Get this...the men's open record is 2hr
39 min 10s (Spain), the ladies is 3hrs 44 min 8s (Spain again), and the
veteran's is 3hr 24min 3s ( a Malaysian thankfully)....a total of 21km round
trip! Makes you sick how fit some people are!
I was relieved to reach the bottom and be on the
transport back to the Park HQ. Straight to lunch
at the excellent park restaurant and then collected our 'Certificate of
Achievement' before returning to KK.
The weather conditions had been near
perfect...not a drop of rain...so it was with relief that it chucked it down on
the return journey back to KK..phew...lucky eh?
My knee was being a total pain for the rest of
the day, so had to take it easy.
Thu 20th Nov - Woke this morning and fingers crossed my knee
was feeling much better. The muscles at the top of my legs were definitely
passing messages on to me that they weren’t happy with being pushed to places
they didn’t want to go! The crazy thing is that before I went on the climb, I
had this silly notion that I could come straight back and go straight out on to
the ‘Borneo Survivor Island Adventure’ for a couple of days. This is on an
island a short way from here. Sounds cool fun as it involves going to a ‘Mud’
volcano. The reality is that the past couple of days have been harder than I
expected and I need a couple of days to get over it, so will maybe do that
another time. Also gives me an opportunity to catch up with friends on-line and
plan out a few things. In a couple of days time I will be flying over to Tawao
to go diving in the Sipadan/Mabul/Kapalai area, after which I want to do some
wildlife trekking in the Kinabatangan National Park. The problem is that the
timing can be a bit tricky with weather in that area. If it rains a lot then
the lowlands flood and can get cut off in parts. It doesn’t seem to matter
though as there are ways around that. Fortunately, I found some information
about ‘Uncle Tan’s Wildlife Camp’. This is located next to the Sepilok
Orang-Utan Rehabilitation centre at mile 14 of the Sepilok road. No on-line
booking system, only by phone and e-mail, so rang them up to book in there for
a few days. Will sort out the details of what I will do when I arrive. I had
checked to see what the options were to get between Semporna and Sandakan and
flying or an odd bus journey seemed to be the only options. There is only one
bus leaving at 8am from Semporna and arriving at about 1:30pm. MASWings fly
direct once a day, but that costs RM147 inc taxes and goes from Tawau, so would
need to get back to the airport an hour or so away, and that involves either an
expensive taxi or a couple of mini-buses, so will go the bus option. That
sorted, I can relax…..
Out for a meal later at Little Italy. The reason
for mentioning this wasn't for another boring fact...it is because they were
putting up their Christmas decorations! I hadn't given it much of a thought,
but this is a predominantly christian society, and so Christmas is big stuff
here. And of course, fairly soon after Christmas is Chinese new year. Back in
Europe you generally get Christmas and then it's over. In Asia, you get all
ethnicities celebrating their respective major events, and all respected by
everyone.
Bye for now folks.......
