Ambavalo and an unexpected return to
Fiana. A slight bout of tummy bug and cold (I caught the cold a couple of days
ago)... BUT! My first sighting of lemurs in Madagascar! Ring tailed lemurs (the
black and white stripy tailed ones) at Anja park, approximately 400km from Tana
(7000Ar/3000Ar for students, plus 10,000Ar for an hour guided tour). The
massive granite boulders gave the landscape yet another different feel. The
idea behind the privately owned 36 hectare park is an inspiration for Malagasy
empowerment; sustainable tourism and farming practises run by a local village
organisation.
We passed numerous herds of zebu on
the roads, but unfortunately were not in time for the famous markets held here
every Wednesday.
The other well known attraction to
Ambalavo is the flowered paper made using the Avoha tree and based on old Arab
techniques. We were guided through the process step by step by one of the
workers (Free). Basically the tree is shredded, boiled, rung out and beat with
mallets, mixed with water and set on cloth where petals and leaves are added
according to the personal designs of the maker. What is impressive is how well
the colours of the petals keep even after drying and storage. The factory also
processes silk from cocoon to scarf (but no worms to be seen).
Tonight we’re at the Soratel hotel in
Fiana (36,000Ar for a single double or double single). The rooms are luxurious
but impersonal. We’re also paying much more than at Mini-croque where we’d
stayed two nights previously (26,000 for a double single, make sure the toilet cistern
doesn’t run constantly... very annoying at 2am), though the change of scenery
is nice.
The restaurant of the night was
something to note. A Chinese restaurant/bar close by(‘something’ Panda?) was
particularly Chinese in that it serves all sorts of wild exotic meats. From
wild boar to crocodile, to my favourite, “giant bat that eats fruit, not
protected”, the menu was endless in its list of game. I ordered a tame plate of
frogs legs (I’d been looking out for them ever since seeing them at the Tana
markets; did not disappoint) and Arno a stuffed crab shell. Maybe not the best
food to eat while overcoming a stomach bug but who could resist!
Tomorrow to Ranahira and the gem
mines.
Tips for travelers: The last ATM on
route 7 to Tulear is at Fianarantsoa, and small town hotels don’t take cards, so
cash up. Big mistake otherwise (and why we returned!)
Michael Jackson (RIP) transcends all
cultural barriers. We’d switched from Malagasy to Western music and our driver
instantly became animated when ‘Black and White” came on
