Northern Drakensberg to Durban
It has been a long day! After breakfast we re-organised our day packs to cover the likely potential rainfall we may meet before we set off on our day trip to the top of the Tugela Falls, some 3,200m above sea level. The mini bus bumped and jolted along to a bizarre mix of music piped through the speakers which seems to operate at random intervals depending on the severity of the bumps and potholes that litter sections of the road surface. We rattled around the dam Sterkfontein, which stretches 10km in length and supplies drinking water to Johannesburg as well as providing a base for some hydraulic activity. A 25km journey that actually takes 2 hours to navigate around the dam! It was interesting to pass through the town Qwa Qwa (pronounced Kwa Kwa) and observe the rows of quaint identical little homesteads, each garnished with a solar panel and, in many instances, a small satellite dish. Perhaps purpose built by a local employer, they are certainly an improvement on the some of the dwellings I have seen.
The mini bus groaned and struggled up the undulating roads until we reached the track that would take us up as high as we could drive. The mist hung heavily around and we could only hope that it would clear to afford us some view as a reward for the 12km trek we were about to undertake. For the first time since my arrival in South Africa, I was very grateful to have brought my sturdy hiking boots. The trek was, at times, more of a scramble up rocks between two mountains and on more than one occasion I felt like my lungs were going to burst. I suppose you could take more time, but I have never been one to lag at the back!
We set off in thick, heavy cloud, wet enough to leave your fringe dripping, totally unable to see anything but the path in front of us. At various points the cloud lifted and we were able to see the majestic Berg tops. Eventually we ascended above the clouds so that we could look down on them, much as one does in an aeroplane, and were rewarded with brilliant sunshine. We stopped at the top of the steepest climb for a welcome lunch break before carrying on to the first and uppermost decent of the Tugela Falls. The bravest among us stripped down and sat in sheltered pockets in the cold mountain river, the rest were content to sit with our feet in the water. The views were spectacular and although my little camera did its best to capture them, it can do no justice to the magnificence and serenity we experienced.
The trek down was no easier and again my ankles were thankful for the support. Unfortunately my knees were less protected. Our guide set a rapid pace as thunder menaced our route but apart from descending back into thick fog, we were lucky to stay dry. It was a good opportunity to get to meet other people who are staying at the same hostel and moving on at the same time. Overall it was a thoroughly enjoyable experience and I am pleased to have spent the R500 and done it.
The journey back was pretty quiet, everyone pretty tired out by the day’s events and looking forward to the set menu meal we had ordered for the evening. Feta cheese salad, followed by steak and chips and rounded off with apple crumble and ice cream – all for a mere R100. My first here was excellent and improved only by a glass of red wine!
After dinner some of us decided to sit in the Jacuzzi, which is located in the bar – yes really! There we sat, 2 Dutch girls, 2 German guys, 1 Swedish guy and me representing the UK. The water was really warm so at various intervals we piled outside into the swimming pool, which being pretty cold at night, meant we didn’t stay in there long before again seeking the warmth of the Jacuzzi. A thoroughly pleasant and sociable way to spend an evening and, I think, the reason my muscles aren’t complaining too loudly today!
This morning we had a lie in and spent time repacking our backpacks in preparation for the next section of our journey – our first coastal experience, Durban. Waiting for the bus to arrive, we congregated at the pool and discovered we are mostly all staying just one night at the same hostel. We are now approaching Durban, the temperature is noticeably warmer and the challenge is on to spot the sea. We have chosen to stay at a hostel called Happy Hippo, located on the beach and just a stone’s throw away from Ushaka Marine World.
