The heavy overnight rain drowned out the sound of the sea and so waking up to to the sun on the terrace was a definite plus. The day stretches ahead of us but suddenly moving on seems less appealing than during the planning stages. One of the things I really love about my life right now is the flexibility to act upon impulse. Our first decision of the day is the breakfast choices, our next is whether to stay a little longer or move on. Both are simple. The excellent banana pancakes and fruit salad answers the first, while a unanimous 'stay' decides the second.
Before the heat intensifies too much, we head up to the second recommended snorkelling spot. It is a long swim out to deeper waters but an altogether faster swim back when a sizeable fish nips my toe unexpectedly! Jana, who is back in the shallows, hears the yelp through my snorkel. I manage a thumbs up but the adrenalin is surging. It really felt like someone pulled my toe, and the realisation that there wasn't 'a somebody' out there with me really startled me. However this does not deter me from swimming all the way back to the first spot outside our bungalow. I love the sea, although I confess I am not wholly at ease out there.
Lunchtime beckons us into a small beach front cafe. There are two other tables occupied and, for us at least, the peace and quiet is great. The lack of tourists also means less vendors and those that do appear are not pushy. It seems that the Balinese are skilled at relieving tourists of their funds. Mysteriously money slips through ones fingers here as fast as the beach sand you are standing on.
We opt for a quiet afternoon drive to as far East as we can go. The road is narrow and there are steep inclines and villages to contend with. Distances take a long time to cover. We are rewarded with great views towards the Gili Islands from our elevated position on the cliff tops. Our Jack Johnson CD is a little more forthcoming today and we are driving along with the windows rolled down, sea breeze touselling our hair enjoying exactly the sort of road trip we had hoped for. Having had a late lunch we stop at a supermarket and stock up on biscuits, two packs which we demolish with tea on our terrace. I have given up with milk or more usually, non dairy creamer and now drink tea black. Sometimes it is just too much effort to cling onto habits which really don't fit in with where we find ourselves.
All too soon it is morning and the last day of our short trip. We set off towards Candidasa and Padangbai. We do not get far when the car bottoms out in a water filled hole. Despite having slowed down, there is damage - we are losing oil, rapidly! We recall seeing some sort of a garage on the way in and as it's not too far, we head there, only to find that it is a very much closed down garage. The oil light is on and driving much further isn't an option. As luck would have it, the road side stalls are obscuring a rudimentary village garage. We limp in, totally at their mercy. After inspection and much discussion it transpires that as the jolt has knocked out a previously repaired patch, it is acceptable that they can repair this-unless we want to get towed to Klungkung, quite some distance away. We opt to repair and sit patiently while bits of tin can and plastic steel are applied. Having grown up in Africa, such bush mechanics should come as no surprise and we amuse ourselves as to how this would go down in a garage in England or Germany! Nevertheless it is a tense wait as neither of us have much money on us and they can pretty much ask what they like. Our relief is palpable as they show us the figure asked on their calculator. Two days rental. We know they have inflated the price because not only do we not negotiate, we give them a tip, their look of confusion and surprise gives the game away. However we are sincerely grateful for their creative mechanics and only losing two hours of our last day. We drive off into the rain giving any puddles a very wide berth!
The hostel in Padangbai is so close to the car ferry that we almost end up on board. It is a long trek up and over the hill down to a quiet white sandy beach. An early supper and the time has come to say goodbye. Jana is off to the Gili Islands and I am heading back to Ubud. It has been a great few days and while the driving requires full attention, there is a kind Bali rhythm to it. Navigating myself back proves somewhat frustrating but being lost somewhere very close to Ubud in a beautiful sunset helps a little. I eventually arrive safely to a warm welcome home from Raka. It is going to be a difficult farewell, I feel very much at home here.
