Our trip
began with Rachel having a head start of a few hours on me. I hoped to catch her before she got too far
though! She had made a bee-line for the
dentist while I finished packing the car (her mum’s 4x4 actually). Fate had thrown a proverbial spanner in the
works and delayed our departure by somehow making a teacup jab at Rachel’s
tooth, chipping off half of a porcelain veneer.
With the
tooth repaired, we turned our sights to our first destination – the local car
wreckers. Maybe not on most tourist
itineraries, but essential for us, since the car jack was missing the crucial
winding handle part. How could we expect
to travel confidently for 3 weeks without being able to change a tyre? We did pack in some spinach however (freshly
harvested from our organic garden), so perhaps a ‘Popeye the Sailor Man’ burst
of strength could’ve been employed for heroic tyre-changing??
Our first
destination was a tiny west coast town called Marakopa, beyond the well-worn
tourist trails of Waitomo. Rachel had
spent many summer days there with her family, but I had yet to spend any time
there exploring the coast & casting for kahawai. We had a stopover first at Otorohanga, to
visit Rachel’s Grandma. She was very
happy to see us and provided us with some delicious fresh baking & home
grown strawberries to sustain us on our travels.
The road
from Waitomo to Marakopa passed a few natural wonders – pockets of untouched
and regenerating native forest, the spectacular Marakopa Falls
and a gigantic natural rock arch. A
river had first carved out a cave through the limestone rock then most of the
roof collapsed, leaving a 50m deep gorge with only one roof section remaining. Trees clung tenaciously to the sheer rock
walls, oblivious of the fallen trunks of past neighbours, now littering the
riverbed below. Endless drips of water
fell from the ceiling of the arch above, slowly growing stalactites for future
generations of tourists to marvel at.
We arrived
at Marakopa with a few hours of daylight up our sleeves, so decided to head off
to the harbour mouth to try our luck and hopefully catch our dinner fresh from
the sea. And hooray! Tangaroa rewarded our efforts with a gift of
a pair of kahawai (after we’d returned the first one to the sea). By then, the sun had set over the Tasman Sea and our stomachs were insisting that we hurry
back to the camp kitchen. We baked two
of the fillets with herbs from our supplies & a squeeze of fresh lemon
(picked that morning from Mick & Jen’s tree). Yum!!!
:) Rachel experimented a bit with
a drink to accompany the dinner and discovered that red wine doesn’t really
complement fish too well. But a nice
cold beer certainly did. :)
Our first
morning waking in the tent was certainly not what we were expecting… we heard a
strange, repetitive noise of something beating on the ground and drawing closer
and louder… of course, a wild horse on the loose!! We felt very vulnerable, with only a thin
layer of nylon between our cosy bedroom and the world outside, which now
included a crazy horse! By the time we
figured out where it was a local farmer came roaring in on his quad bike and
chased the horse out, hopefully back to its paddock? We were too jittery to go back to sleep after
that, so decided to get out to the coast again in search of more fish!
We lugged
our rods, tackle & lunch around past the harbour entrance and south along
the shore, until our progress was interrupted by the tide washing up a rocky
channel with no easy way around. Rachel
decided to scout up the steep hill for a path, but didn’t have much fun in all
the toitoi and flax. She returned with
razor-thin cuts around her legs, and no news of a path. Luckily the tide was ebbing and we got past
the obstacle after a bit of sunbathing & relaxing. However, Rachel wasn’t so lucky when she
discovered later in the day that her back was turning to a lobster shade of
red. Fortunately she remembered a past
sunburn incident here and being treated by aloe vera from a neighbour’s
garden. We found the plant again and borrowed
a few leaves to moisturise and soothe Rachel’s skin.
The next
beach beyond the tidal channel looked promising for some surfcasting so we got
started and patiently continued through the heat of the day. But the fish just weren’t cooperating. :(
After a couple of hours, we’d only caught a small one each, so we
decided to try again closer to the harbour mouth, where we’d had some success
the previous night. And it worked! I got a good sized kahawai again, but Rachel
struck out.
Back at the
campground we decided to try a game of tennis.
The Marakopa Tennis Club was based at the campground and conveniently
provided two rackets for free use. I
think the rackets were probably older than me though! Rachel hadn’t played much tennis before so we
tried to just use the front squares of the court. But I think she enjoyed it when I had to run
after ‘accidental’ shots that went a bit too far. It was a fun way to spend the last of the
afternoon though, even if my feet got sore from running around barefoot on the
concrete surface.
Our second fish dinner was a delicious fish pie with
creamy sauce and mashed potato on top.
Fresh from the sea to our tummies. :)