At the start of this summer i got myself a new surfboard. Not exactly brand new, but as soon as i laid eyes on it i liked it :) It was 9'1" with a beautiful round nose and white fins arching down below the tail.
It took me a few times to get the hang of it, since it was completely different to the shortboard that i had been riding until then. But the more i surfed it, the more i liked it :) And i spent more & more time surfing because i was enjoying it so much!
One particular day in January there were only a few surfers out at my local beach but the conditions were wicked! 3-4ft sets and a light offshore breeze vainly trying to hold up the weight of the cresting waves. I paddled up the beach to a deserted sandbar break where i was picking up left & right handers whenever i wanted. The rights were fast & walley and closed out after an exhilirating 10 seconds or so. The lefts were more mellow - a shoulder that just pushed along, allowing me to carve some wide turns to match the growing grin on my face.
I had this break to myself for alomst an hour, until another couple of guys paddled over to share in the fun. By then i was almost satisfied with the morning's efforts and my arms were also giving me the satisfying feeling that I'd been paddling & popping up again & again :)
The next day the surf was a bit smaller and there were a consistent few guys on the break throughout the day. But that previous session stuck in my mind as the most fun that ive ever had on a surfboard. I cant wait til i get a chance to top that experience now....
