Hola, Buenos Tardes!
What a blessed Lord´s Day. I tried to go to church, but didn´t get the information on where the MTW church was until it was too late. Maybe in Puno? So, last night I met with David, from GAP, to brief me on the trip. When I booked this trip, they said I´d probably join a group on the Lares Trek, I said, no problem. Well, not the case. In between my lack of Spanish and his lack of English, I couldn´t exactly figure out what happened, but as of tomorrow morning at 06:00 it is me and Freddy, my guide, and the rest of my entourage. I am the only one on the trip and Freddy will be my guide. We will take a cook and one or two porters with horses to carry our gear (food tent, sleeping tents, duffle bag, etc.). So, possibly 4 people for just me? David was so funny, he kept saying, "It is whatever you want. Where you want to eat lunch? You talk to Freddy and you decide? Just you, whatever you want." Talk about a guilty pleasure! So, he went over the trip with me. Freddy picks me up tomorrow at 06:00. We get in a bus and drive to Calca. There I can buy some toys or small gifts for the children we will see on the trek (like marbles or something?). We go through several samll villages up to a spectacular pass at 4600 meters and finally down to Kiswarani, which is at 3700 meters. That is where we will have lunch and then start the hike. The first 2 1/2 hours is uphill to a pass at 4280 meters. Then down for 3 hours to our campsite at Kunkani, which is 3700 meters. The total distance will be 9 km. Then Day 2 is the longest, fullest, hardest day. The first 2 1/2 hours is uphill again to 4300 meters, then down to Wakawasi valley at 3800 meters (where sometimes they have lunch), then up again to the highest pass of 4500 meters at Ipsayqocha. Then only 1/2 an hour to our campsite at 4200 meters. David said we could get to camp by 14:00 if we don´t stop for lunch. He suggested that. "Since it is just you. You talk to Freddy. you do what you want. I think eat at camp." It is tempting to knock it out and then have the afternoon to crash. He also said that campsite gets COLD becuase it is so high. Sounds like long johns, 2 bag liners, a sleeping bag and hot water bottle in my bag that night! The distance for Day 2 is 14 km. Day 3 is short. Only 2 1/2 hours to Patakancha. We usually get there by 10:00 and it looks all downhill. There we get on a bus and drive to Ollantaytambo. It is 45 minutes by bus. So, probably lunch there Day 3. We take the 14:55 train to Agus Caliente and arrive around 17:00. Freddy and I will eat dinner--probably after checking into hotel and showering and then going to hot springs. Day 4 (Thursday), we will go into Machu Picchu. Then back to Cusco. Should be a great trip! I am really excited. I´ve been tired and a little headachy from the altitude, but this afternoon, I am feeling pretty good and by noon tomorrow when we start hiking should be 100% again.
One thing David kept saying was about the rain. Making sure I have my trekking poles becuase when it rains, the trails can be slippery. Or suggesting I hire a thermarest becuase when it rains, the ground can be really cold. I have my rain pants and a jacket. The pants are well tested from Chile. Nothing can compare to the rain on Day 1 of the W Hike. So, I know I will be dry, but I have to say, hiking uphill, in the rain and wind, is not too appealing to me right now! I hope it holds off or will rain tonight? It could dry by the time I start hiking. This morning David brought me the thermarest, sleeping bag and duffle. On the Inca Trail, there is a limit to the weight of your duffle. And is supposed to be on this one, but again, not for me since I have an entourage--no limits. The duffle they brought is not the normal duffle. it is huge. And David brought me his personal sleeping bag with a silk liner included. I am still taking my fleece liner. I do not like being too cold when sleeping. But I couldn´t believe he brought me HIS bag. he said he uses it on the Lares trek and it is very good. What i need. It was in a dry sack and a plastic bag. The thermarest was in a plastic bag also. In case of rain, keep it dry. I brought some plastic bags, but wasn´t thinking of using them for this, but now I am. All my clothes will go in plastic bags so hopefully I will have at least a dry shirt each day.
Also, my pumpkin has turned into a carriage. The 10 hour bus ride I was supposed to take from Cusco to Puno is now somehow a 7 hour ride in either a private bus or I think a car? Victor, another GAP person I was talking to over the phone, wasn´t real clear, but it is picking me up Friday at 09:00 to go to Puno. David also agreed 09:00 was when I need to lead. He is like my tour manager! :)
So, last night was a good night. I had a good dinner at Inka Grill and turned in early. Tonight I am gong to eat and go home and pack my duffle and then my backpack (the hotel will keep my backpack while I am gone) and then go to bed early so I can get up by 05:30 at latest.
Today was a good day. I slept in, met David at 10:00 for the trek stuff, and then got ready and went to town. While I was in my room, I kept hearing all these firecrackers. I could not figure out for the life of me what was going on. While on the square, I saw a parade leaving the church. I finally found someone that spoke enough English to explain to me that it was a celebration of the 12th day after Christmas. So, all day, there have been firecrackers, parades, marching bands, costumes. Lots happening. I´ve put pictures from today in the photo album. Check it out.
I hung out in the square and read my bible and devotional and journaled for a little while. Then I wandered the streets off the square and looked in the shops. One shop at the end of an alley had the cutest little boy. He first asked me where I was from in Spanish. Then in English. When I said America. He said, "Capital is DC. Bush is president and Clinton is ex-president." He learned it all in school. English and current events. His name was Marco and he had a friend Ronaldo. And his sister was also working. He tried to sell me some notecards with art on the front that he made, which I don´t believe he did. We kept talking and finally I agreed to buy one for cinco soles (less than $2). He didn´t have the right change so after some more negotiations, we agreed upon the second one for 3 soles (about $1). I got his sister to take my picture with him and Ronaldo and there is another little girl in the picture. They were thrilled to use the camera and then to look at the pictures. He tried to make me pay him 1 soles to take the picture, but I didn´t go for that. People do dress up in traditional dress and "pose" in front of the churches or steps, etc. But they expect you to pay them for modeling for you picture. That is not what he was doing so I wouldn´t pay. Anyway, it was a fun time shopping with Marco. He is 10 and Ronaldo is 3.
After the shops, I bought some bread from a bakery and went to a park off the square to eat, people watch and journal some more. There is such good people watching here. The sellers are so persistent. "lady, belt for you. 10 soles." "no, gracias." "how much for you lady? you buy." "no gracias." "maybe later?" this goes on and on. Belts, finger puppets, paintings, wooden bowls, hats, scarves, anything. women, children, and men. Everywhere. If you are stern enough with the first "no, gracias." then they usually will go away. After lunch, I went to the Plaza dármas again. i sat by the church and did some more journaling. I must have sat on this one bench for 2 hours. A young family came and sat by me. Husband, wife, and baby. Cutest baby girl. They have no concept of personal space, which I am getting used to. I look back over at the girl and mom has totally opened her blouse and is breast feeding with no attempt to cover up--literally inches from me. They sat with me for a while. Before them, I had 2 strange women (one at a time) come join me. The first one wanted the rest of the water in my water bottle. I had to refuse. The second one I think was just begging for money in general. Neither stayed long since I wouldn´t give them anything. So, the 2 strange women, the breast feeding mom and then the winner was the last one---Elman! He thought I had a friendly face. He must have talked to me in half English half Spanish for half an hour before I got away. We covered that he is from Lima, living in Cusco to study art. He had been studying marketing in Lima, but didn´t like it. He wants to paint, sing, act, dance. We also covered American politics and whether Bush is afraid of Bin Laden and out of fear is at war and that is causing gas prices to go up. And love. He thinks friendly love is best and you are happiest when in love. What else? Oh knowledge is power. We should all try to continue to learn. He thought I was very beautiful, easy to talk to, "I could talk to you a long time." (I bet you could.) Apparently I am very welcoming, friendly face, etc. How he can tell this when he walked up I was reading some things I had written in my journal I don´t know. His picture is in the photo album. Check him out in his NY Yankees baseball hat. I asked if I could take his picture when I was leaving. He wanted me to email him. Or get my email address so he could email me and keep in touch. Yes, Melissa has been screaming at the screen what poor judgment I have and don´t I know not to talk to strangers! :) And yes, I have great judgment. You will be glad to know I did not give Elman my email address! ha! He was harmless. My breastfeeding family was sitting by me the entire time. When they left, an American guy sat down. When he left, so did I. Oh, the pleaures of traveling the world and meeting all sorts of people. I guess it balances out the princess treatment I will start getting tomorrow! So, then here to my internet cafe. They let me use thier bano before I started. I was dying. Let´s put it this way. I have seen banos on the trail look way better than what I used in here. I don´t think Adele would have even been able to step in there!
I will be on the trail for 3 days starting tomorrow, so probably will try and update from Agus Caliente. They have internet access. I think I get there Wednesday night. So, until then or Thursday night at the latest, Bueno Noches!
