The Sierra Norte is a range of mountains just to the North of Oaxaca which contain a network of trekking and mountain biking routes through spectacular pine forests. The ancient pathways connect eight villages ( the pueblos mancomunados) which work together communally to provide tourist accommodation and guides to help people discover the area. The landscape and flora are spectacular, and being at 3000 meters and with very few roads, it is always fresh and peaceful. A few days walking up here is the perfect escape from the pressures of traveling.
Bookings for accommodation can be made in Oaxaca at Expediciones Sierra Norte at M.Bravo 210 – 1 (9/514 8271). It really helps if you can speak some Spanish, as the people here and up in the hills don’t speak much English. Accommodation is in dormitories or cabins, which are very comfortable and clean and have hot water. Each of the eight villages has accommodation, and you can just turn up and hope there’s space. If there is room, you are usually “upgraded” to a cabin, even if you have only paid for a dorm.
Expediciones Sierra Norte sells a very useful map of the area, which has the walking routes marked on them. Buying this is highly recommended (50 pesos), as it’s difficult to work out where to go and where to stay without it. They will also press you to hire a guide to accompany you on your trek. This is not necessary, as the routes are well way marked, but if you’re Spanish is good, having a guide will give you a broader insight into this unique area.
There is also an entrance fee of 50 pesos per person. The tourist office in Oaxaca has useful fact sheets on the villages.
The villages run on Mountain Time, which is 1 hour behind Oaxaca time, so always clarify what time is being quoted, particularly important for buses.
At 3,000m, it gets very cold at night and may also rain anytime, so pack that fleece and raincoat.
What you get to eat depends on the size of the village you are in. Most of the larger places have a couple of eating places, but in smaller places, you may be eating a meal with a family. The food is simple, but they will often try to accommodate you if you give the cook some warning. All the villages have at least one simple shop.
Getting there .Buses run five times a day to Cuajimoloyas, the main village on the southern edge of the community area. These buses run from the second-class bus station in Oaxaca from gate no. 37. There are also buses three times a week to Benito Juarez, which run from a wood yard on the edge of Oaxaca; ask at Expediciones Sierra Norte for the exact location and times.
The routes are all numbered and are shown on the Pueblos Mancomunados map. The map also gives the distances and gradients for each route so you can plan your trip. Most walkers walk the routes between Benito Juarez, Cuajimoloyas, and Llano Grande on the southern edge of the area, as these are on the bus routes, so it is easier to walk between them and get the bus back. The Trek Mexico-type groups only walk between these villages.
If you use a guide, you’ll have no problems finding the way. If you don’t, then you will have to rely on the markings, which are generally very good. There are markers (and usually a seat) at the start of each route, and there are regular Zapotec markers (see photo) along the walk, with a larger one at each kilometer, givin the distance you have gone. A compass is often useful, though.
Recommended Routes (of the ones I have personal experience with)
Route 7 – Loma de Cucharilla
This is a great ridge walk through forest, taking you from an area of tracks and trout farms onto paths high on a ridge. Although the route is way marked, not many locals come this way anymore, and the time I did it, the path looked like it had not been walked on for months. The farther you go, the more primeval the forest becomes. The one problem is that the turn-off the ridge to descend to the river valley is not signposted. If anyone wants advice on this, they can contact me directly.
Route 3 – Camino Real
This is one of the easier routes and one of the best. The walk follows the ancient Royal Road of the Zapotecs up a river valley, and some of the original flagstones are still in place. What makes this walk so wonderful is the huge variety of flora, which changes along the way as you gain height. You may also see deer. Towards the end, the path rises above a gorge where the trees are draped in lichen, with spectacular views. It is an outstanding trek.
I have done other routes, but these are the highlights, and you can contact me if you want more information.
An added dimension to visiting this area is that the community of villages, the pueblos mancomunados, or joint villages, are run like, for all intensive purposes, a communist state.
All the land is owned communally by the whole village and is allocated to individuals to work, with the proceeds being shared by everyone. When a young person comes of age, they are given a year to decide whether they wish to become part of the commune or want to leave. Some do leave, with the USA and Mexico City being the main destinations. If they decide to stay, they are allocated land, but also have to give one year in three to the community. Jobs are also divided up between the villages, with individuals being elected to particular roles. These include running the tourist facilities or running the village shop. Smaller jobs, liking cleaning the cabins or being a guide, are also divided up, but you may find that your guide may also have another job, such as police chief! The villages also organize business, like timber extraction or running trout farms, which you are likely to see on your treks. Everyone has a stake in the system and in making it work, particularly the tourist business. For this reason, being among these people is a delight, as they are very open and friendly, making it a particularly relaxing place to spend time.
