Valparaiso is definitely unique and I can totally understand the UNESCO world heritage tag. After a slight change of plans due to the mega hangover after the birthday celebrations, I caught the bus to Valpo on Monday morning and was once again the only gringa to be seen. The drive through the mountains and vineyards was beautiful and in under 2 hours I was on the coast.
Highlights of Valpo:
1) a bus station even more dodgy than the Dundee one! Having said that both taxi drivers to and from the hotel were lovely and gave me some great chat in Spanish.
2) an amazing loft apartment at Hotel Galos- luxury furnishings and amazing little touches like fresh bread outside the door in the morning.
3)a city of 2 halves- el Plan and Los Cerros ( the flat and the hills), the Plan is all about the port and is pretty gritty. Los Cerros are these wonderful hills filled with brightly coloured houses and shops. Murals everywhere.
4) Los ascensores are insane! The way people get from the hills to the flat areas is via these ancient funacular/lift contraptions. Amazing views from all of them and a wee man that cranks the wooden box down the hill.
5) yet more amazing food and great weather for wandering around the hills taking in all the murals and grafitti with a background of the ocean.
6) I didn't make it up to Pablo Neruda's house but I can see why he loved Valpo and his Ode to Valparaiso now makes complete sense. "Valpo how absurd you are, how crazy, a crazy port".
