I got really lucky with the weather today. It rained this morning, but by midday the sun came out and it was beautiful-made for a wonderful day in Assisi. The bus from the train station was very easy (unlike Spoleto), probably because it sees far more tourists. I started at the east end of the town and headed west (& north & south & up & down & everywhere in between). I visited so many churches today; San Rufino, Santa Chiara (the crypt where she is buried is beautiful, ornately decorated and blue painted arched ceiling with gold stars), Chiesa Nuova (built on the site of the house of the family of St. Francis), Tempio di Minerva (an old Roman temple with a church inside), Santo Stefano (the oldest church in Assisi, simple stone interior & bare), San Pietro, and of course-the glorious Basilica di San Francesco. I think I spent at least half an hour in there, going between the upper & lower churches to study the frescoes, and visiting the tomb. It is so impressive-how massive it is and with the entire interior covered in frescoes. I remember the first time I visited, just being in awe of a church with 3 levels. I left the church, enjoyed the lovely view of its facade, and climbed a road which I thought led to the Rocca Maggiore but did not, so I walked a while, through some vacant streets, partly exploring, partly trying to figure out where I was going. I found one of the central piazzas and refueled with a delicious sandwich of arugula, dried tomatoes, artichokes, pecorino, olive oil (which seems to be doused on everything here) on focaccia. I sat a while in the piazza and watched an adorable little italian girl sing & dance in an effort to entertain her nonna, so cute! Then I attempted again to find the Rocca Maggiore, which (after some steep climbs, plenty of stairs, & an over priced entry fee) offers incredible views of the city below and surrounding Umbria. I tried to find Perugia somewhere in those hills, but I wasn't quite sure. (I think you can also see Assisi from Perugia from some of the viewpoints). Exhausted but content at this point, I returned to the bus station for the ride down, and made sure to visit the Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli, which is by the station. The church is huge, so big that inside, in front of the alter, is a pretty little stone church (the Porziuncola, where St. Francis founded the Fransiscan order). I am on the train back to Perugia, so tired but so happy that I was able to return to Assisi, one of my favorite little towns in Italy.
