THERE WERE NO FIRES BURNING IN CIENFUEGOS. Not a one. Originally named Fernandina by French émigrés 200 years ago, it became a UNESCO World Heritage City because of its elegant classical French architecture. The name was changed for José Cienfuegos, Captain General of Cuba in the early 1800s — not for the “100 fires” its name implies. We learned all this and more from Leslie, our guide.
Mural in Cienfuegos
Stores in Cuba, she explained, come in two varieties. “Peso” stores are for the locals and accept Cuban pesos. Goods are simple and of poor quality, while tourists can by top-shelf rum, Havana cigars and souvenirs at “CUC” (Cuban Convertible Currency) stores. Both surround the Paseo del Prado along with great architecture, theaters and the ubiquitous statue of Jose Marti. Surprisingly there are no statues of Fidel — he would not permit it — but there are many billboards with his bearded face and Ché and his beret.
Black Magic Woman Viva la Revolucion
The real reason we stopped in Cienfuegos was to see the endemic Gundlanch’s hawk at the botanic garden. An hour’s trekking got us a fleeting glimpse and no photo. Meanwhile, Carol rested at the restaurant sipping a cool drink. When we returned she was being serenaded by a very suave and talented guitarist who we learned had been a member of the famed Buena Vista Social Club.
Carol and her amor
Trinidad was a real surprise. I guess we were running a little ahead of schedule so Arturo dropped us off for an hour of un-guided exploration in the World Heritage center. It reminded us of some of the colonial towns we visited in Mexico but not nearly as touristed.
Colonial Trinidad
We finished our time in Cuba the same way non-US vacationers do — at an all-inclusive beach resort. We stayed there to explore the mangroves for shorebirds and the Cuban mangrove cuckoo but I managed to sneak a little beach time. Hope Trump doesn’t find out!
