Our pilgrimage to Gallipoli began early in the morning on the 24th of April on a bus packed with Aussies and Kiwis. The long commute, taking the entire day, only served to increase our anticipation for what was ahead. We finally walked into the commemoration site that evening as the sun was setting over Anzac Cove, and were greeted by thousands of other travellers who had already settled in for the long night. We were surprised to see how picturesque the cove was, and had to remind ourselves that we were laying on the very place where thousands of soldiers lost their lives for our country. An army band was serenading the crowd with wartime songs, and the music, documentaries and speeches continued throughout the night. Despite it looking like the world's largest sleepover, the mood during the night was peaceful and respectful. Thankfully for us it was the warmest Anzac night in 5 years, but we still put on every layer of clothing we owned and huddled together to keep warm.
As the dawn drew closer everyone began to stand in anticipation for the dawn service. For a few minutes the only sound you could hear was the water lapping at the shore behind the stage. It hit us then that it was this very moment that the soldiers were leaving their ships and making their way towards their deaths on the shores we were standing on. It was an eerie feeling. The silence was broken by the piercing song of a Maori women- the Maori Call to Gathering. Even though we didn't understand the words, you could feel the pain and sorrow in her voice.
Throughout the dawn service we heard from Australian, New Zealand and Turkish representatives. The attitude of the Turkish people to Australians and Anzac day really amazed us. Despite the fact that we fought on opposite sides of the war, they support and participate in our commemorative services in their country. The Turkish people that we have spoken to are glad that we come and feel that Gallipoli is a shared place of mourning. This mutual respect was probably born from the friendships that formed between the Turkish and Australian soldiers during the war, despite being opponents. For us this feeling was driven home by the recitation of the words spoken by the Turkish general, Mustafa Kemal.
"There is no difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side now here in this country of ours... you, the mothers, who sent their sons from faraway countries wipe away your tears; your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After having lost their lives on this land. They have become our sons as well."
Although tired from the little sleep we had, the feeling of Aussie pride continued throughout the day as we attended the Australian Lone Pine service and visited the trenches and other battle sites. The experience has reaffirmed for us what it means to be Australian, and that is something that will stay with us forever.
Our last few days in Turkey brought us to Selcuk, near the ruins of the ancient town Ephesus, one of the ancient wonders of the world. We stumbled across a backpacker paradise run by an Australian/Turkish family, which was just the right place to rest and rejuvenate. Highlights were a walk through the mountain to the ruins, which were the home of Mary (as in mother of Jesus) in the last few years of her life, and a visit to a winery in a Greek village. We also visited the town of Pammukale, which houses the famous hot springs and travertines, terraces of carbonate minerals. From a distance these look a bit like snow, but actually the spring water was lovely and warm.
Our time in Turkey is drawing to a close, and we still feel like there's so much of Turkey still to explore. But we'll have to wait for another trip, because the Greek Islands are calling our names!
Love, Ash and Soph
