2 Girls, 2 Backpacks, 1 Adventure of a Lifetime

Working (and eating) our way through Italy

sophv — Tue, 22 May 2012 01:53:00 GMT

With some apprehension we pressed the intercom to our hostel and walked up the stairs to the first floor of a dingy, old apartment building in the centre of Rome. We had read mixed reviews about this hostel (with rumours of bed bugs...) but the price and location was too hard to pass by so we took a risk. As we opened the door and lugged our bags through we were greeted by a stream of Italian, ending in, “Spaghetti and disco party tonight, all free! You’ll be here?” Being both hungry and thirsty we readily agreed, and were soon sitting at a long table with our fellow backpackers and techno music pumping in our ears. What a welcome to Rome!

The next day, feeling more than a little sorry for ourselves, we were kicked out of our hostel for cleaning at what we felt was an ungodly hour (11 am). Forced to go sightseeing, we set off down the street without much direction, and stumbled into the colosseum. Towering above us, the sheer size and completeness of the ancient stadium is astounding, even for Ash on her third visit to Rome. After walking around its perimeter we continued our wanderings, passing through the public square Piazza Navona, and ending in Castel Sant’ Angelo (think Angels and Demons). It’s hard not to fall in love with Rome, which is vibrant, cultural, mysterious and ancient. There is history at every turn, and it often feels as though you have gone back in time. You wouldn’t blink an eye if you passed a Roman gladiator (in fact you do constantly, as people seem to enjoy dressing as them and trying to convince you to take a photo). We definitely didn’t spend long enough in Rome to do it justice as we needed to keep pressing on to northern Italy, but Sophie vowed to come back and explore the city properly on her next visit.

On route to our first farm stay, we stopped in the city of Bologna for few days. Bologna is home to the world’s oldest university, and also the birthplace of Bolognese sauce (or ‘ragu’ in Italian). During our stay we sampled both of these sides of the city, browsing the many museums and basilicas on the university side, and doing our best to eat meals the way Italians do. This usually involves multiple courses enjoyed slowly with a glass of wine, though we often struggled with the slow part. However as they say, practice makes perfect, and we aim to master this by the end of our Italy stay.

Upon embarking on this adventure we had planned, for both saving money and cultural purposes, to take advantage of a program called help exchange (or Help X). This allows travellers to work in exchange for food and board in a variety of farms, hostels, ranches etc. We organised to stay and work on a farm not far from Bologna, near the village Dozza. We arrived on the 13th of May, excited to escape from hostels for a week, and enjoy getting stuck into some work (and some Italian home cooked meals). We definitely weren’t disappointed by either. The farm is owned by an English/Italian family, Davide and Victoria, and their two young children. It is primarily a hobby farm that produces grapes, cherries, ricotta from their own goats, and other vegetables. The family is also currently renovating part of their house involving mostly "manly" work with various power tools. All of these things kept us more than busy during our time there.

Our typical day usually started at 8 am, when we trekked up the hill to collect weeds for the goats’ breakfast. The rest of the morning we spent cleaning, gardening, painting, fencing, restoring furniture and doing some housework, before stopping at midday to cook the men and ourselves lunch. Italians really do seem to eat pasta for every meal, and its amazing the variations of pasta that we were able to concoct during the week. On one particularly ‘empty pantry’ day, Sophie created a tinned tuna and mackerel cream pasta, which was surprisingly delicious. The rest of the day is filled up with odd jobs before the girls come home and demanded everyone’s attention. Dinner is usually, you guessed it, more pasta, and a few glasses of wine before dragging our hard worked selves to bed.

We really enjoyed our stay with the family and we were sad to stay goodbye. However, after 10 days we were more than ready to get our backpacks back on, and set off in search of our next Italian adventure.

Until next time,

Ash and Soph xo

Hopping the Greek islands

sophv — Thu, 17 May 2012 02:17:00 GMT

After the hustle and bustle of Turkey we were ready to soak up the sun and the sea on the Greek Islands. Our first destination - the "party island" of Ios. Getting there meant hopping between a few islands, and on the 2nd of May we finally disembarked from the ferry and were whisked to every party-going backpackers dream- Far Out Beach Club. This resort (you can't call it a hostel) had everything from a bar to a water sports centre. We had barely unpacked our bags when we were invited by the Far Out residents to join them for dinner and the island’s main attraction- the nightlife.

As it is not yet high season and not many bars are open, the night begins at the inventively named "Fun Pub". The company includes a mix of locals, backpackers and temporary island refugees - travellers who get so sucked into the excitement of the island nightlife that they decide to stay on and work for the season. After a few beverages, the crowd then progresses in a group from one bar to the next, getting rowdier as the night goes on. The night ends when (or well past when) the sun comes up, with a long and scenic stumble home along the beach. There is no rest for the wicked, with the same process repeated every night after a long afternoon nursing a hangover by the pool.

As self-confessed foodies, we can’t write this blog without mentioning our favourite Greek restaurant named Fiesta, which was perched on the cliffs outside of the village in Ios. Owned by a lovely English woman named Lorna, and her talented Greek husband/chef. Lorna arrived in Ios when she was 19, seeking travel and adventure, only to instead find a husband and a place she never wanted to leave. 30 years later, her restaurant is home to the most delicious moussaka we have ever tasted. Moussaka is a Mediterranean dish similar to lasagne, with layers of eggplant, mince, potato and béchamel sauce. The only thing we can complain about is that it has now ruined all other moussaka for us. If you ever visit Ios, make sure you try it!

We were curious as to what else the island of Ios had to offer, so we dragged ourselves away from the pool for one day to explore it with the help of quad bikes. The island is incredibly beautiful, and we thought it was a shame that not many other backpackers attempt to see it. The day brought us to Homer (the famous Greek poet)’s tomb, and a deserted beach. We felt like we had actually earned our beverages that night!

The next stop on our Greek island tour was the famous Santorini. The white houses with blue roofs balanced precariously on the cliffs are the signature feature of the island. They are made famous by movies such as Sisterhood of the Travelling Pants, Mamma Mia and Tomb Raider 2. This is only one small part of the island called Oia, which is a popular destination for honeymooners, but a little out of our price range. The rest of Santorini isn’t quite as picturesque as you would expect, with older, less lively villages and not as much to see or do.

We managed to make it to the main attractions of Santorini in the few short days that we were there. Oia boasts the most stunning sunset in the world, so we decided to enjoy it in true backpacker style. Sitting amongst the romantic couples with our store bought bread and bottle of wine; we wouldn’t have traded it for the most expensive restaurant in Oia. Despite being sceptical at first (we’ve seen a lot of sunsets) we were impressed. We also made a day trip to the island’s dormant volcano and thermal springs. Santorini used to be much larger, but a volcanic eruption thousands of years ago resulted in a huge crater in the middle of the island, called the Caldera ring, which is now filled by ocean.

Due to the current economic climate in Greece, we were hesitant to cross-overland mainland Greece to reach our next destination. After locating cheap flights Rome became our next port of call, so we bid Yassas (goodbye in Greek) and bonjourno to Italy!

Until next time, Ash and Soph x

The Road to Gallipoli

sophv — Tue, 1 May 2012 12:48:00 GMT

Our pilgrimage to Gallipoli began early in the morning on the 24th of April on a bus packed with Aussies and Kiwis. The long commute, taking the entire day, only served to increase our anticipation for what was ahead. We finally walked into the commemoration site that evening as the sun was setting over Anzac Cove, and were greeted by thousands of other travellers who had already settled in for the long night. We were surprised to see how picturesque the cove was, and had to remind ourselves that we were laying on the very place where thousands of soldiers lost their lives for our country. An army band was serenading the crowd with wartime songs, and the music, documentaries and speeches continued throughout the night. Despite it looking like the world's largest sleepover, the mood during the night was peaceful and respectful. Thankfully for us it was the warmest Anzac night in 5 years, but we still put on every layer of clothing we owned and huddled together to keep warm.

As the dawn drew closer everyone began to stand in anticipation for the dawn service. For a few minutes the only sound you could hear was the water lapping at the shore behind the stage. It hit us then that it was this very moment that the soldiers were leaving their ships and making their way towards their deaths on the shores we were standing on. It was an eerie feeling. The silence was broken by the piercing song of a Maori women- the Maori Call to Gathering. Even though we didn't understand the words, you could feel the pain and sorrow in her voice.

Throughout the dawn service we heard from Australian, New Zealand and Turkish representatives. The attitude of the Turkish people to Australians and Anzac day really amazed us. Despite the fact that we fought on opposite sides of the war, they support and participate in our commemorative services in their country. The Turkish people that we have spoken to are glad that we come and feel that Gallipoli is a shared place of mourning. This mutual respect was probably born from the friendships that formed between the Turkish and Australian soldiers during the war, despite being opponents. For us this feeling was driven home by the recitation of the words spoken by the Turkish general, Mustafa Kemal.

"There is no difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side now here in this country of ours... you, the mothers, who sent their sons from faraway countries wipe away your tears; your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After having lost their lives on this land. They have become our sons as well."

Although tired from the little sleep we had, the feeling of Aussie pride continued throughout the day as we attended the Australian Lone Pine service and visited the trenches and other battle sites. The experience has reaffirmed for us what it means to be Australian, and that is something that will stay with us forever.

Our last few days in Turkey brought us to Selcuk, near the ruins of the ancient town Ephesus, one of the ancient wonders of the world. We stumbled across a backpacker paradise run by an Australian/Turkish family, which was just the right place to rest and rejuvenate. Highlights were a walk through the mountain to the ruins, which were the home of Mary (as in mother of Jesus) in the last few years of her life, and a visit to a winery in a Greek village. We also visited the town of Pammukale, which houses the famous hot springs and travertines, terraces of carbonate minerals. From a distance these look a bit like snow, but actually the spring water was lovely and warm.

Our time in Turkey is drawing to a close, and we still feel like there's so much of Turkey still to explore. But we'll have to wait for another trip, because the Greek Islands are calling our names!

Love, Ash and Soph

Ash and Soph's Survival Guide for Anzac Day

sophv — Tue, 1 May 2012 01:59:00 GMT

1. Bring a sleeping bag. Just do it. It's colder than you think it will be, and impossible to find one in Istanbul.

2. Failing that, be ruthless in your choice of friendships made on the commute to Gallipoli. Target those with large sleeping those with large sleeping bags or blankets. Never underestimate the power of body warmth (and don't be afraid to get your spoon on).

3. Bring or prepare Aussie themed queue games, as its a long day of waiting.

4. Bring plenty of snacks. While the cry of "kebab, kebab, kebab" is tempting at 5 in the morning after a long night, it's not worth the stomach ache, or the price you will pay.

5. Don't try to sneak drinks in. You don't need them, and if you get caught its a long cold night on your own outside anzac cove.

6. Wake up early enough to get a good view of the Dawn Service, and Julia if you're lucky enough.

7. Bring tissues.

8. Do expect long walks after a sleepless nights, but beautiful views and the great vibe will get you through.

9. It's all worth it the moment that dawn breaks.

Photos: Turkey Travels

sophv — Thu, 26 Apr 2012 19:23:00 GMT

Goreme, Istanbul, Gallipolli

Touchdown in Turkey

sophv — Tue, 24 Apr 2012 00:02:00 GMT

Two bleary eyed Australian girls touched down in İstanbul, Turkey at midday on the 18th of April to begin our grand adventure, and walked out of the airport straight into Turkey's first duststorm in 25 years. Despite having done a small amount of preparation, and plans to expertly navigate the metro system into the city centre like a local, we found ourselves herded onto a tourıst shuttle bus full of Australians. Atleast we trıed!

One cracked windshield later, we found ourselves in a tourıst offıce run by a very sharply dressed Turkısh man, who we later dubbed Alladın in a suıt. Before we new it, our next few days were booked and we were on an overnight bus to Cappadocia, the land of wild horses.

Arriving in the town of Goreme, Cappadocıa, was like a journey to another planet. A volcanıc eruption millions of years ago left behind a strange landscape of valleys with unique rock formatıons. People have made their homes(and homes for their pigeons) in caves carved from the ash.

We woke up at the crack of dawn full of anticipation (or ın Ashs case, fear) for our fırst hot air balloon ride. 700 m up in the air along with 80 other hot aır balloons it was hard to feel anything but awe at the breathtakıng view. Another unforgettable experience to tick off our bucket list. The rest of our day was spent exploring a city 8 floors under the ground (dıscovered 20 years ago when a cockeral fell through a collapsed part of the roof) and the second longest canyon in the world.

We have found the Turkish people incredibly friendly and welcoming during our stay so far, givıng us everything from directions to free baclava. On our first night in Goreme, our waiter sat down with us after our meal to drink tea and dıscuss the intricacies of the English and Turkish languages, the differences between Austria and Australia (demonstrated with a map made out of objects on our table) and show off our favourıte dance moves to Elvis Presley songs. So far our favourıte phrases are "kanka" meaning best friend, "gule gule" - goodbye with a smıle and "bomba gibiyum" which means Im so great, Im like a bomb!

Leaving Cappadocıa was hard, but we found entertainment whilst waitıng for the bus to İstanbul in the form of a Turkish folk dancıng flash mob. Another long overnight bus ride brought us back to the colourful and lively İstanbul. We had two days to scrape the surface of what Istanbul has to offer, and we wasted no time gettıng around to all the tourist hot spots- mosques, the palace, the spice market, and a tour of the Bosphourous river by boat. We were interested to learn in Topkapi palace that despite having the preconcieved ıdea that a Harem is a place where the sultan could engage ın debauchery at wıll, it was a bıt more like the royal living room in reality.

Istanbul seems especially crowded after the quiet, peaceful village life in Goreme. Its not hard for Turkish people to guess we are Australıan, as there seems to be Australians on every corner. We are all gearıng up for the pilgramage to the Gallipoli peninsula for Anzac Day. Even though we are thousands of miles from home, as we draw closer to Anzac Day you can feel the Aussie spirit alive on the streets of Istanbul!

Quotes of the trıp so far:

"Oregato!" "Soph Im pretty sure they are Maylasian"

"Come into my shop, so I can sell you something you dont need" random shop owner

"Why be prepared, when you can be unprepared?" Ash

"You dropped something... my heart" smooth talking Turkish man

Love Ash and Soph X