A quick 20 minute ride north from Granada and nestled in a volcanic crater, one will find Laguna de Apoyo. There is a very chill vibe around the lake which is shared by its breezily pleasant weather and because the waters here are the cleanest of Nicaragua’s lakes, one would be wise to make a visit. Like all beautiful locations that are situated around volcanos, there is a hint of danger. At Laguna de Apoyo that danger comes in the form of a Nelly-esque monster legend that keeps many of her locals on the shore and entails a giant sea serpent that, once upon a time, rose to the surface and parted the lake. I never saw ol’ Nica-Nelly but I did enjoy several refreshing swims wherein the water temperature ranged from Baby Bear’s porridge (i.e.: just right) to Baby Bear + 3 degrees and depended upon sub-surface heat vent proximity or perhaps Serpent farts.
Granada, which was once sacked by rum loving Capitan Morgan, is much like many of the other picturesque colonial cities throughout Mexico and Central America but it is located on the shores of Lake Nicaragua - the largest lake in Central America. I kicked it for a few days at the Oasis Hostel (real nice) and walked around town (without a camera), ate at local holes in the wall and socialized. Yep, been there & done that…
With another colonial town under the belt, I made plans to rendezvous at Playa Popoyo with my buddy Stefan from Germany. The rhythm of companionship is a tenuous thing while traveling – sometimes people are there and gone in a day & other times they linger longer and by default, you get to know someone. Stefan falls in the latter category.
Although well-known within the realm of international surfers, Playa Popoyo has escaped the corporate development seen in places like Puerto Escondido, MX and has also escaped paved roads and directional signs found along their shoulders. Speaking of rhythm and in typical fashion, I did about three laps on various gravel roads & dirt single lanes, dodged four legged locals (pigs & cattle were the most common), got three different sets of directions from two different bystanders and eventually arrived at a little slice of Heaven on the Pacific. Stefan, who was traveling by bus, was already there.
After three nights (4 days) enjoying the beach at Playa Popoyo, I have concluded five things
- The sunsets here are amazing.
- It’s time to try surfing (where I won’t die in the process).
- International surfers are generally good people.
- Experiences are best shared with a friend.
- Nicaragua is all right by me.
Next destination: Island of Ometepe on Lake Nicaragua.
