La Paz is a bustling port city named for the initial demeanor of the indigenous inhabitants upon the arrival of Spanish missionaries; however, those peaceful folk later changed said demeanor after too many bibles had been chucked at their polygamist lifestyle and they busted a cap in the church’s head honcho. For my initial stay in La Paz I did little more than get a room, scarf some tacos and do a quick lap on the Malecon. Knowing that another visit to the city was needed to acquire ferry passage to Mazatlán and that an additional day or two there was likely, I left the land of ironic names and traveled to the next southern town on the map – Todos Santos.
Todos Sandos is one of seven towns in Mexico assigned the “Magical” moniker by its Government. And if one is looking for friendly people in an artsy community with a tranquil setting then put a star on the map. If one is in search of a town with very few gringos, head on down the line. That said, I did hang out with some Mexican Harley riders with whom stories of travel were shared and perhaps a beverage or two as well as a few laughs. It was also in Todos Santos that I meet the Alaskan, husband and wife duo of Brian and Soniyae who are in route to Patagonia and riding two-up on a Suzuki V-Strom. After chewing the fat for a spell, the AK duo and I made plans to meet up ten miles down the road at the Pescadero Surf Camp.
The Pescadero Surf camp, which was recommended by a friend in Colorado, has showers, bathrooms, a community kitchen + pool for only $10 a night. Jamie (Hi-May) the owner is super chill and welcoming and the cats already staying at the Surf Camp represented 5 countries and were awesome company. There was no surfing for this rookie due to the size of the waves which dictated an advanced surfer only policy but, it was still worth chilling for a few nights. Good food is easily found in Pescadero and the local townsfolk are very friendly. I’d say that apart from the excellent company, the highlight would have to have been rolling down to the town's baseball pitch and watching the Pescaderos put the smack-down on Todos Santos. The scene was reminiscent of a high school football playoff game in which the whole town shows up to cheer, tell stories of past heroic deeds and live vicariously through the efforts of those still dressing for the game.
After saying Adios to new friends from the camp, I rolled on down to Cabo San Lucas.
Brian & Soniyae's website: http://reidmotoaventura.wordpress.com/
