Raining again! Never mind - we're used to it now. John and Denise suggested a day in nearby St Albans and that sounded good to us. Before we left, Becca's friend Alex called in - as mentioned the other day, they had stayed with us in Oz a couple of years ago.
We drove into St Alban's, via the scenic route - on the way, we passed some incredible houses one of which was owned by Eric Morcambe, of Morcambe and Wise fame. His wife still lives there.
We got out of the car to walk through a park, where people were sailing some very serious looking remote-controlled boats. However, the heavens opened and we were getting drenched (umbrellas notwithstanding). We made our way to the Ye Olde Fighting Cocks Inn but, when we got there, it was closed until midday. Ever the stoics, we decided to wait outside (admittedly it was 11.55am, so not a long wait!). Apparently Oliver Cromwell stayed at the pub during the Civil War and, when we eventually went in, it was obviously a very old Inn - one of many claiming to be the oldestin the United Kingdom. After a drink and a dry-out we left to continue our journey to St Alban's Cathedral. Up until St Alban's was given city status, in 1877, the building had been an Abbey. (In England, a City traditionally has to have a Cathedral and an Assize Court).
From the outside, the Cathedral looks a little "bitty" but inside - magnificent. Even though there is a lot of renovation work going on, it is possible to see how grand it is. St Alban, after whom the cathedral is named, and who was reputed to be a citizen of the Roman city of Verulamium (nearby) became a Christian after having sheltered a visiting Christian priest from persecution. He was put to death in the 3rd century AD for refusing to renounce his new faith and is honoured as the first Christian martyr of Britain.
The building has been a place of religion for 1700 years but has had many upgrades in between. There is still a lot of scaffolding to be seen but this does not detract from the beauty of the building.
In the Quire there is a cathedra, or Bishop's Throne and, among the nameplates in the stalls is that of Nicholas Breakspear who became Adrian IV in 1154 - the only English Pope, who had been born in nearby Bedmond. The High Altar Screen was erected by Abbot William of Wallingford in 1484 and the altarpiece showing Christ's resurrection is by Sir Alfred Gilbert, who also designed the Eros statue in Piccadilly Circus.
The Rose Window in the North Transept was unveiled by the late Princess of Wales in 1989 and there is an altar there which was created from an early 12th century shrine of St Alban and dedicated by Lord Runcie in 2000. He was Bishop of St Alban's for ten years before becoming Archbishop of Canterbury (1980-1991), during which time he married Prince Charles and Lady Diana Spencer in 1981. He is buried outside, in the north churchyard.
In a small chapel alongside the High Altar is an exhibition of Claudia Brown's six beautiful perspex angels, depicting the six stages of grief - they are something to behold.
St Alban's Shrine is behind the High Altar. This survives from 1308 but was recently restored with a new red silk canopy. Next to the Shrine is the tomb of Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester (d. 1447), who was a brother of Henry V and Protector of England. He was apparently a Renaissance Humanist and the founder of the Bodleian Library in Oxford.
In the Nave are rounded Norman arches and pillars (1077-1115) built of recycled Roman bricks. Sadly the south side pillars collapsed in 1323 and were replaced in a different style. In the nave it's possible to see paintings, which were hidden after the Reformation under whitewash and rediscovered in 1862. Although removing the lime-based wash destroyed much of the colour and detail, it is still possible to imagine how they would have looked originally.
After a browse around the bookshop and gift shop we remembered we were hungry and, after having chased up Ron and John (who had been looking for a Green Man) we left to find some tucker and a cuppa. Still raining you'll be surprised to hear!
Outside the actual Cathedral, now part of the Abbey School, is the West Gate which was built in 1361 and besieged during the Peasants' Revolt in 1381.
After lunch we strolled around the town and took the long route back to the car - it is a really interesting place, with some very lopsided buildings. John told us of his friend who had stayed in The White Hart Inn but kept nearly falling out of bed because of the slope of the floor!
Home for a delicious Sunday roast - which we were more than ready for! Mind you, we were all disappointed to learn that Lewis Hamilton had had tyre problems in the Hungarian F1 GP, finishing 5th, although still retaining a small lead in the Championship.
We leave here tomorrow for Leamington, to spend a few days with Sam.
