So the night bazaar wasn't that great- whatever we ate/drank gave us all gastro. We got on a bus to Chiang Khong anyway... Erin and I decorated the exterior. 3 hours and an empty stomach later we got into the border town.
(Friday) We stayed at the Bamboo Riverside Bungalows, quite cheap, comfortable and helpful hosts. Didn't see much of the town, we were only there to cross the Mekong anyway but the guesthouse was really relaxing. Lots of little huts down the side of a hill, a big dining area and deck overlooking the river. Really weird for us to look across a river and see another country and people and culture. We spent the afternoon/ evening recovering.
(Saturday) In the morning we had another chat to Ao, the host. He seems very strange at first but then you realise he is just really in to what he loves. He gave us a few good tips about how to get into Laos.
A short walk down the road to the Thai Immigration office to get stamped out and then down to the little ferry. 30B, Big charge for what was a very short trip. Across the river, we filled out forms to enter Laos, handed over our passports, a photo and US$31. The documents went through several windows and hands and then through some more and some more money paid and then we were done.
We were convinced by some very helpful Lao men with decent English skills (only one could really speak quite well and he was the spruiker) that when we booked a slow boat to Luang Prabang, we also had to book accommodation in Pakbeng, the village halfway to Luang Prabang where the boat stops overnight. I thought we had been scammed but it all turned out okay.
We booked the slowboat (only to Pakbeng) 450B and a bed 200B (it pays to keep some Baht, get some Kip and have US$!) and then a taxi ride and a short wait and we were packed onto a long slowboat after slipping and sliding down a sandy hill with packs on. We followed some people through all the little bench seats to an area behind the engine where there was just floor. I think it's where the family who own and run the boat basically live. So we made a little camp there against the wall with our bags and cushions that are quite worth while picking up in the Laos border town. Turned out to be one of the best spots on the boat... people came to invade and steal our space. But at least we could stretch out and sleep. I had a view out the window opposite me of rocks and jungle and sand for about 7 hours. The river seems quite low!
We got out the landing mess quite well also- got our bags quite quickly and scrambled up an even bigger, steeper, sandier slope than before to reach the hoard of people proffering taxis and guesthouses. Found our host quite quickly and got given our rooms- not too bad. We had beds and a bathroom (cold cold water only). Pakbeng is only a very small village and relies on the travellers from the slowboat to keep the people going. Everyone is constantly offering food, rooms and drugs. Had a decent dinner though couldn't eat all of it- our fist real meal for quite a while.
We met an older Canadian couple we had seen earlier at the border crossing and spoke to them about chartering a speedboat for the second leg to Luang Prabang. Tony wasn't too keen on another day spent on a slowboat. We would meet in the morning to arrange it. It was really cold at night. The generator went off about 11:30 and everything was pitch black.
(Sunday) Up in the morning with our takeaway baguettes from the hostess. Quite good for breakfast down by the river. Met with the Canadian couple who had arrange a boat for 5000B for all five. So we followed them down the other end of the slope, which was even worse and across2 very slim, light gangplanks to the speedboat pontoon. We had no more Baht so we had to pay 260000Kip each. Our bags were tired down and we got squished onto the floor of a long, narrow flat bottomed boat with a big outboard on the back. Dodgy helmets and lifejackets with straps that didn't do up and tissues in our ears, we weren't going to pay 40000kip for ear plugs, and we were ready to go.
It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. We had heard a lot of people say it was so dangerous and acidents happen often and lonely planet and advised against it... but it was mainly just uncomfotable and very very cold! The scenery was great again- more jungle and rocks. We also were able to see just how different the Mekong water can be: glassy - whirlpools - choppy - waves; but our driver was very good.
We got to Luang Prabang safe and sound. It warmed up so we weren't numb from the cold anymore, just the cramped seats. Got in nearly 5 hours ahead of everyone else in the slowboat. Accommodation here is a little more expensive, similar to the standards in Thailand. We are staying in a guesthouse across the road from a wat. We have had varied dining experiences though, very slow service for lunch but fairly good for dinner. What our orders turn out to be are still a little bit different to expectations but Erin made the point that it is probably the translations on the menus. Makes sense.
(Monday) Today we walked around town. We visited the bank for some money before we get to the capital- no US$ unfortunately but plenty of kip from the ATM. Then to the moutain temple. The temple itself isn't terribly spectacular but after all the steps you climb, the view of the town and the river is quite magnificent.
We hiked out of the new quarter to the Chinese markets, thinking we would be in for a good meal but no food, hardly an people and a whole lot of junky-fleamarket type stuff. Tuk tuk back to town!
Tomorrow we will probably go by bus (likely to be a more dangerous trip than the speedboat) northeast to Nong Khew (can't remember exactly- more accurate when I tell you about it!) and another smaller town. Possibly a trek?
Much cooler here. Yet to experience the more relaxed feel of Laos and the people. Hope you are all safe and well! xo
