3 countries, 6 weeks, 9 lives?

final destination bangkok

lptravel — Sat, 31 Mar 2007 20:37:00 GMT

sihanoukville - koh chang - koh wai - bangkok.

enjoyed some utterly relaxing time on the beach, now for some shopping. any requests?

to the sea

lptravel — Sat, 24 Mar 2007 16:02:00 GMT

Sihanoukville: I truly am a beach person. Didn't realise how much I had missed it until we saw the beach out of the bus we had been sitting in for nearly 10 hours.

We are staying in a cheap (and nasty) guesthouse. But we are literally on the beach and it plays music and has comfy couches and things. The beach is very nice, white sand, clear blue water and is very warm.

Heading to Koh Chang island in Thailand tomorrow (??). Hopefully will meet up with Tony and Erin soon.

awe and shock

lptravel — Fri, 23 Mar 2007 00:22:00 GMT

Sunrise at Angkor: got up in the dark, 4:15am to cycle (we were motoring out there, racing dawn) out to the temples. Hit some potholes along the way and lost my breakfast baguette.

Managed to find the hill, Phnom Bakheng that is apparently great to view the sunrise from. Nearly missed it because there wasn't a massive hoard of tuk tuks and buses there, as for sunset the day before. Ilegally climbed up some steep and rubbled steps in fear of missing the big event. It was wonderful to see the temple as I neared the top of the steps, exhausted after powering on the bike and climbing up the hill.

There were only around 10 other people at the hilltop temple. Quite serene. There were a few clouds on the horizon so the sky became light before a red sun broke through. Very dramatic to watch the mists over the forests disappear and Angkor Wat across the way become visible.

Felt very small and insignificant in the great scheme of things, sitting on the steps of a centuries old temple, amongst forest and land that has existed for thousands of years, under an immense blue sky and an ancient sun.

The rest of the day was filled with breakfast, a disappointing ovaltine shake (available only in Laos and Thailand it seems), a siesta, a devious monk (took us on a tour of his pagoda then asked us for money) and exploring Angkor Thom.

Angkor Thom, on the whole, wasn't as interesting as some of the other temples. Most of the temples are only a fraction of what they used to be. The Terrace of the Leper King and Terrace of the Elephants had beautiful carvings though.

Today, I did Angkor Wat. I am glad I left it till last. Most of the other temples probably would have seemed quite plain in comprison. Angkor is huge. Initially I got so overwhelmed by the size of it (and the large number of tour groups there at the time) I had to take some time out and just sit at one of the external galleries (with my back to a magnificent bas relief) and take in the grounds and the raised walkway.

Finally got my act together and climbed to the very top level to spiral my way down. There is actually a fair bit of climbing involved in some places. It's satisfying to see that not everywhere in the world has gone health and safety mad- there's still some adventure to it. Explored the spires and levels and grassed areas. Even walked outside the temple walls for a while, and got to take in the enormous moat.

Visited the Aki Ra Landmine Museum on the way home. Interesting in a different way. Lots of disabled mines about the place, staggering statistics and photos of the man and his work who is doing a great job for people still affected by the remnants of war.

A massage again by the Seeing Hands, after all the biking and climbing and walking.

More transit travel tomorrow. About 10 hours to Sihanoukville, a beach town in the south.

Am really enjoying Cambodia.

tuk tuks, massages, bicycles and temples

lptravel — Tue, 20 Mar 2007 22:29:00 GMT

So Siem Reap is the craziest place for tuk tuk drivers. Got absolutely swamped when we got off the bus. Got a lift to our guesthouse (quite nice, mattress on the floor again though) and then an offer to go to the sunset over Angkor and maybe a 3 day taxi. Never got to see the sunset- stopped not even before the end of town because we wouldn't commit to 3 days. Very frustrating. Maybe the full story will sound better. After some retail therapy and a massage by the blind, we felt a little more collected.

Everywhere we walk or ride our bikes, in the city or at the temples we get harassed for tuk tuks and motos and food and drink. "No thank you" is the standard reply to "miss" "lady" "cheap cheap for you" "i do discount" "pinappplllllle" "you eat here".

Our first day at Angkor was kind of mind blowing. Didn't actually get to the most famous temples of Bayon and Angkor itself, but rode our bikes to the smaller, more distant ones. I think it was about 26km all up. (A much better biking experinc than Vang Vieng).

The temples are quite amazing, though I felt quite numb at the end of the day. Perhaps the sunrise at Angkor tomorrow will reveal something new.

isn't it ironic

lptravel — Sun, 18 Mar 2007 18:48:00 GMT

Saysudai from Phnom Penh!

From Vientiane Erin and Tony headed for the Thai islands. I went south to the 4000 islands at the bottom of Laos. Not as magnificent as I thought they would be but a great place to chill out. Very hot. Lao lao mojito not good. Meet a young Australian girl with whom I am travelling with at the moment.

From the 4000 islands we crossed the river and travelled some dirt road to the border of Laos and Cambodia. Arrived in Phnom Penh last night. Feels like I have done more over the past few days but I guess transit travel erases whole days.

Today: booked a ticket to Siam Reap tomorrow morning, shopped the Russian market and visited the Choeung Ek Genocidal Centre (Killing Fields).

The place is quite humble despite the huge atrocities it is reknowned for. The craziest thing is the young children begging for money/water/yumyums through the fence around the area. I wondered if they knew what they were standing on the other side of. Then had to barter and haggle with our tuk tuk driver to take us back to our guest house. I think travelling another culture and history really highlights the irony of humanity.

Tomorrow: off to Siam Reap to see Angkor Wat. Looking forward to it. Have also been promised an air conditioned bus. No longer consider promises to be any more than a slight possibility of being somewhat satisfied (especially when it comes to air con). However, it could be okay and it's only 6 hrs. From there- probably head straight down to Sihanoukville for a Cambodian beach experience and then meet with my travelling companions on a Thai island.

Hope everybody is well at home. Looking forward to vegemite, public transport and toilets that really aren't that bad and friendly faces (that don't want money from me)!

update

lptravel — Mon, 12 Mar 2007 20:56:00 GMT

Hello all,

have been out of interweb access for a while.

From Luang Prabang we all travelled to Nong Khiaw, back up the Nam Ou river to central Northern Laos. Small village. Guesthouse where we stayed had a great outlook of the river.

From there I went up to Muang Ngoi, a village full of guesthouses that is the base for trekking through the Lao jungle to visit hilltribe villages. Tony and Erin went back to Luang Prabang to visit a waterfall and do a cycle-kayak day.

Muang Ngoi was interesting. There are a lot of travellers staying there. Restaurant where I ate had a good view of the street and Lao people's homes. Was amusing to watch the daily breakfast ritual and the full moon party. I think there were quite a few sore Western heads the next morning after a lot of Lao Lao, Laos whisky. Very potent I hear.

I wanted to do a trek there but there wasn't enough numbers. Walked to the nearby Ban Na village. Nearly all bamboo shacks though there are a a couple guesthouses. At least one house had a huge satellite dish. Television is a popular past-time.

Back to Luang Prabang to meet my travelling companions. A stuff up by the travel agent who booked our bus to Vang Vieng and several hours wait at the bus station later we were headed south. Lots more Lao scenery out the window.

Yesterday we wnet tubing down the river that Vang Vieng lies on. Tony and Erin were expecting some more rapids and a little more excitement... I didn't mind lying back and floating past all the cliffs. Plenty of bars to pass by, all with bamboo sticks to pull you in by and calls of "BeerLao BeerLao".

We stopped at one bar where the water was quite deep and all gave a flying fox into the water a go. Bloody scary but I did it. Once was enough.

Off to Vientiane, the capital tomorrow. Will probably be there for a few days to get the visa for Cambodia. Maybe some more details on the past week's adventures? Thanks for your the little bites from home!

Congrats Nica!!!!!

love, o & x

the mekong

lptravel — Mon, 5 Mar 2007 20:05:00 GMT

So the night bazaar wasn't that great- whatever we ate/drank gave us all gastro. We got on a bus to Chiang Khong anyway... Erin and I decorated the exterior. 3 hours and an empty stomach later we got into the border town.

(Friday) We stayed at the Bamboo Riverside Bungalows, quite cheap, comfortable and helpful hosts. Didn't see much of the town, we were only there to cross the Mekong anyway but the guesthouse was really relaxing. Lots of little huts down the side of a hill, a big dining area and deck overlooking the river. Really weird for us to look across a river and see another country and people and culture. We spent the afternoon/ evening recovering.

(Saturday) In the morning we had another chat to Ao, the host. He seems very strange at first but then you realise he is just really in to what he loves. He gave us a few good tips about how to get into Laos.

A short walk down the road to the Thai Immigration office to get stamped out and then down to the little ferry. 30B, Big charge for what was a very short trip. Across the river, we filled out forms to enter Laos, handed over our passports, a photo and US$31. The documents went through several windows and hands and then through some more and some more money paid and then we were done.

We were convinced by some very helpful Lao men with decent English skills (only one could really speak quite well and he was the spruiker) that when we booked a slow boat to Luang Prabang, we also had to book accommodation in Pakbeng, the village halfway to Luang Prabang where the boat stops overnight. I thought we had been scammed but it all turned out okay.

We booked the slowboat (only to Pakbeng) 450B and a bed 200B (it pays to keep some Baht, get some Kip and have US$!) and then a taxi ride and a short wait and we were packed onto a long slowboat after slipping and sliding down a sandy hill with packs on. We followed some people through all the little bench seats to an area behind the engine where there was just floor. I think it's where the family who own and run the boat basically live. So we made a little camp there against the wall with our bags and cushions that are quite worth while picking up in the Laos border town. Turned out to be one of the best spots on the boat... people came to invade and steal our space. But at least we could stretch out and sleep. I had a view out the window opposite me of rocks and jungle and sand for about 7 hours. The river seems quite low!

We got out the landing mess quite well also- got our bags quite quickly and scrambled up an even bigger, steeper, sandier slope than before to reach the hoard of people proffering taxis and guesthouses. Found our host quite quickly and got given our rooms- not too bad. We had beds and a bathroom (cold cold water only). Pakbeng is only a very small village and relies on the travellers from the slowboat to keep the people going. Everyone is constantly offering food, rooms and drugs. Had a decent dinner though couldn't eat all of it- our fist real meal for quite a while.

We met an older Canadian couple we had seen earlier at the border crossing and spoke to them about chartering a speedboat for the second leg to Luang Prabang. Tony wasn't too keen on another day spent on a slowboat. We would meet in the morning to arrange it. It was really cold at night. The generator went off about 11:30 and everything was pitch black.

(Sunday) Up in the morning with our takeaway baguettes from the hostess. Quite good for breakfast down by the river. Met with the Canadian couple who had arrange a boat for 5000B for all five. So we followed them down the other end of the slope, which was even worse and across2 very slim, light gangplanks to the speedboat pontoon. We had no more Baht so we had to pay 260000Kip each. Our bags were tired down and we got squished onto the floor of a long, narrow flat bottomed boat with a big outboard on the back. Dodgy helmets and lifejackets with straps that didn't do up and tissues in our ears, we weren't going to pay 40000kip for ear plugs, and we were ready to go.

It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. We had heard a lot of people say it was so dangerous and acidents happen often and lonely planet and advised against it... but it was mainly just uncomfotable and very very cold! The scenery was great again- more jungle and rocks. We also were able to see just how different the Mekong water can be: glassy - whirlpools - choppy - waves; but our driver was very good.

We got to Luang Prabang safe and sound. It warmed up so we weren't numb from the cold anymore, just the cramped seats. Got in nearly 5 hours ahead of everyone else in the slowboat. Accommodation here is a little more expensive, similar to the standards in Thailand. We are staying in a guesthouse across the road from a wat. We have had varied dining experiences though, very slow service for lunch but fairly good for dinner. What our orders turn out to be are still a little bit different to expectations but Erin made the point that it is probably the translations on the menus. Makes sense.

(Monday) Today we walked around town. We visited the bank for some money before we get to the capital- no US$ unfortunately but plenty of kip from the ATM. Then to the moutain temple. The temple itself isn't terribly spectacular but after all the steps you climb, the view of the town and the river is quite magnificent.

We hiked out of the new quarter to the Chinese markets, thinking we would be in for a good meal but no food, hardly an people and a whole lot of junky-fleamarket type stuff. Tuk tuk back to town!

Tomorrow we will probably go by bus (likely to be a more dangerous trip than the speedboat) northeast to Nong Khew (can't remember exactly- more accurate when I tell you about it!) and another smaller town. Possibly a trek?

Much cooler here. Yet to experience the more relaxed feel of Laos and the people. Hope you are all safe and well! xo

more later

lptravel — Mon, 5 Mar 2007 08:38:00 GMT

all endured a bout of gastro

crossed into laos

slowboat/speedboat down the mekong

in luang prabang

frustrated with laos kip (currency)- too many darn zeros! feels like you're rich with so many notes but it's only worth a few dollars.

tomorrow tomorrow

lptravel — Thu, 1 Mar 2007 21:47:00 GMT

The beer was great. Erin and Tony got some great photos with the elephants they rode while the elephant camp was bathed!

Dinner again at Forestry 33. Great thai food at a good price, nice big tables and seats. I think the best place to eat in Pai.

Picked up our laundry this morning, quick breakfast at our favourite restaurant (perhaps this is the only meal that should be had elsewhere?) and then off to our minibus.

We booked a minibus back to Chiang Mai, our transit stop before Chiang Rai; thinking it would be more comfortable. The seats were quite comfotable, good leg room, a vast improvement from the local bus we took up the mountain. And air con. But a fair bit faster and more downhill = lots more sharp windy turns that were much more noticable... Tony and I bought motion sickness tablets tongiht. I am thankful for the short stop and potent ginger tea!

A short wait in Chiang Mai and back on an air con, first class bus to Chiang Rai. We even got given a bottle of water, a snack and then a fresh towel before arrival! Very stylish compared to some of the baking dishes we have travelled in so far.

Chiang Rai has given us our most involved accommodation hunt so far. We met an Australian couple (the first so far... perhaps the Aussies prefer the islands?) close to the bus station and quized them about guesthouses. They kindly showed us to where they were staying. Then started a hike around town: here is odd in that the guesthouses aren't located in a strip or concentrated area. Finally settled on a room to share after snubbing an absolute dive and a very lovely but pricey place.

Walk through and dinner at the night markets/bazaar. Bargaining powers in practice again.

Tomorrow we will be heading off to the border town Chiang Khong (most likely). First must stock up on things to keep us amused; apparently we have a 2 day boatride ahead of us o any kind of accommodating town in Laos. As well as currency for Laos (the only ATM is in the capital, Vientiene).

the one that got away

lptravel — Wed, 28 Feb 2007 14:34:00 GMT

Yes I am taking lots of photos and you would be surprised at how difficult everyone makes getting out of school; nearly impossible. This is my L form I am talking about. I posted it the other day... not sure if the girl in 7/11 gave me the correct stamp- she later sold us the incorrect phone card. Anyway, I can't lodge it online but if I give the right person the right information via email, she will do it for me (apparently). Lesson: finish it in the first place (before they remove your course, it's okay, it is available till end 2008).

Thank you all for your comments!

So I did meet with Erin and Tony (he does all the daypack carrying) the night before we left Chiang Mai. We walked through some of the night markets. Ate dinner at a place called Baan 9: great food, good sized meal and bargain price. Walked past a store that sells jewellery and masks and stuff- I think they get a lot of trade business, stuff from Peru and Mexico apparently. Even old manuscripts and books that look about 100 years old or more. Very appealling but no money spent. I think because I would feel like I am throwing it away compared to Erin. She and Tony are nearing expert barter status.

I eventually tore myself away from the markets to at least enter the boxing match I had paid for in the morning. Saw the end of 2 young boys fighting, then a Thai and English young woman and then a big Swede (not huge by our standards) and a Thai guy. After the Thai guy was flattened I'd had enough. I saw what I had paid for. It is quite a spectacle- the audience, the trainers, the routine of the prematch dance and greet.

Up early the next morning for a bus to Pai (said bye not pie). Just the 3 of us. Half bus size. Lots of Thai people. Very strange guy next to me... I think they like to put all the farang (foreigners) together on Thai transport, ordinary people seem to shy away from sitting near tourists. Anyway, the guy turned out to be born in Argentina but lived in Italy. Quite strange. Good to laugh and raise eye brows about though.

The 4 hour trip was quite good. NOt long out of the city and we were winding up the mountains with very green jungle and small villages along the way. Up the front of the bus were quite a few Thai people sitting on the floor and sacks of grain, there was a young girl travelling with her mother, with a very white looking doll in a red lace dress. Had the camera ready the whole trip but was never able to get a shot of what I thought was an interesting contrast. Oh well.

The rest break was welcome, thoguh we didn't eat anything. Toilets are quite clean for what they are. Still perfecting the art of squatting will holding onto a bag, a roll of toilet paper and sunnies. Erin and Tony also got to fix their bench seat which had slid halfway off the frame... added to the fun of nearly running into cattle and other automobiles.

Breakfast at Pai at 12pm. Quite welcome since we were up at 5. Staying at Bann Shaesuan. Very comfortable. Enjoying a room to myself with a bathroom and hot shower! Divine. Quite cheap also.

Erin and Tony out on a dirtbike today. Visiting all the attractions- waterfall, hot spring, elephant school. NOt confident at all on the windy, narrow and undulating roads, I took a walk down the river today. Down the farms and past the schools, kids swimming.

Pai is quite the hippy-relax-chillout town. If there was an equivalent it might be Melanie. Quite dry in town though, burnt hills as well. Little disappointing compared to the cool jungle we bused through.

Off to enjoy a 39B Chang tallie now. Not even $2. Cheers Lex.

Tomorrow I think we will leave for Chiang Khong, the border town. Not much in Chiang Rai we are told. All well. Tanned, changes with the footwear.

spoke too soon

lptravel — Mon, 26 Feb 2007 16:17:00 GMT

After seeing all the temples in Ayutthaya, we decided to head straight to Chiang Mai without stopping. According to people at the guesthouse, ther was not much to see between the two towns.

So off we headed to the train station th next morning, Renata with us too (the Dutch girl) in the hope we could catch a somewhat comfortable train. The next one didn't leave till 4pm. In another tuk tuk to the bus station. 365B and 10 hours later, we arrived in Chiang Mai.

Haven't seen too much of it actually. As soon as I got off the bus, my stomach became quite queasy... also a rash I had developed over the past few days became unbearable. So I spent all day yetserday in bed. 80B/ night for a bed in the dorm of Banana guest house. Not bad. I just hope that I have now experienced my only illness for the trip.

Got up today for a walk around town. Visited several Buddhist temples. Back to bed again though. Stomach is not very cooperative.

Still no epiphany.

Tonight we intend (I think we, haven't seen Erin and Tony all day. He loves the scooters. They visited a monkey trainging farm thing yesterday and I think were off to the disabled school today) to go to a big Thai boxing night. Not quite sure what to expect. Saw a little bit on telly in Bangkok but tonight should be quite a spectacle.

Tomorrow I think we will leave Chiang Mai. Most likely bus again. Not going to list our possbile destinations because it will probably end up different.

Enjoy work and uni... stick with the books... wouldn't want to become another statistic not having completed a degree but spent months travelling the world.

wat wat wat

lptravel — Fri, 23 Feb 2007 18:10:00 GMT

Here I am nearly half way around the world and I am in constant contact... my excuse is that I think everyone would like to be updated with our travels. However, the Dutch girl I am sharing a room with (and a bed) has our key and in another guesthouse, I though I would give Erin and Tony some space.

Tony is quite the gentleman, of course. Though he and I are getting a little tired of the convenient mix ups made with food/drink orders that always end up costing us a little more than what we ordered. Erin like to study where we are off to and how to get there (which is a good thing). Meanwhile, I am happy to go with the flow.

Now that we are getting out of the big cities, Thai people and other travellers are a little more friendly and happy to have a chat.

The trek down the Erawan waterfall path gave Erin a rolled ankle, which made scootering quite difficult. So yesterday, we decided to spend a recovery day travelling so as not to miss too much.

We caught a local bus from Kanchanaburi to Suphan buri where we changed buses for the second leg to Ayutthaya (the old capital). The buses were a great way to start journeying into real Thailand (I feel like it is more real anyway). It was great to watch the people on the bus, the country, people and houses go by outside, as well as lide at the bus station. Thai people definitely cherish the family unit, young children always seem so joyful and parents/ grandparents always so caring.

Off the bus in Ayutthaya with about 7 other travellers made for a scramble to the guesthouse strip. A girl from Holland and I are sharing a room while Erin and Tony have one across the road. Rita (said herta, I think) is great to talk to... she is taking 6 months to travel Asia beofre starting her masters in organisational psychology.

We were lucky enough to expereince Chinese New Year celebrations last night. Long night markets in the main street, dragon dancers and lots of people. The westerners are starting to stand out in the crowds here.

Today the three of us rented a Tuk Tuk and our friendly driver, Wanchai, took us to all the oold temples (wat) and ruins around town. Luckily film is so cheap here but I think everyone will get tired of looking through so many photos of temples and ruins. I have really started to consider if the picture is worth taking!

We went to at least 7 sites. My favourite is a large Cambodian style wat, surrounded by green grass. Many many buddhas and spires and a very tall central tower. The 'bricks' are quite small and the steps are polished to dips from all the feet that have walked over them in the past 500 years.

Lots of school children on excursions. Filled out a couple of surveys (English studies?) and took several photos of and with the kids.

Tomorrow we catch the train to Lop buri, for the day and then intend to save on accommodation by catching an overnight train to Chiang Mai.

Super hot at the moment- it is coming into hot season so hopefully hunting for a bed will become easier. Keep hearing wonderful things about Laos. Beer is a good friend. No one has fallen ill yet : ). Cross fingers. Several scrapes are taking time to heal with the heat, humidity and sweat.

Loving every minute!

P.S. Hope grandad and Cleo are fine, and the latter still slim and behaving.

well worn path

lptravel — Wed, 21 Feb 2007 22:50:00 GMT

3 days in Thailand feel like they have been jam packed with seeing the sights and visiting places all things Thai but life still feels like a homely bubble.

Our arrival in Bangkok began with an over-charged cabfare, not much by AUS$ standards and offset by a friendly driver. The taxi arrangement company at the airport probably got the best out of it. We were dropped off close to Khao San Rd and it was at least half an hour and 6 full guesthouses later that we had a bed for the night, 1 for 3 at the Swasdee guesthouse.

Bangkok is lively. Sprawling, dirty city though. Khao San Rd and the backpacker district gloss over the dirt and pollution with plenty of people roaming the streets which are lined with bars, cafes, bookstores, travel agencies, tattoo parlors and plenty of street vendors selling food, clothes and trinkets and heaps of other stuff. Not far from Khao San is Rambuttri (St?), still backpacker orientated but cheaper and more relaxed. The amount of non-Thai people that are in the area and the way they are accommodated kind of makes for a weird sense of dislocation- not quite Thai and not exactly home.

First day in Bangkok brings a visit to the Grand Palace and Emerald Buddha. After a filling 'Asian soup' from the guesthouse restuarant. Palace and temple of the Emerald Buddha are a stark contrast to the surrounding city: clean and sparkling and ornate. Very large expanse of buildings. Amazing murals and hand painted wall motifs. Made me think about the possibility of all the other 'Sistine Chapels' in the world.

Now we are spending our second night in Kanchanaburi. The 2 hr bus ride northeast of the capital was a glimpse of Thai life. Rice paddies, lotus flower harvesting, huge billboards, plenty of scooters and lots of people flew by out the window. Staying at the Jolly Frog is comfortable and, like the rest of the town, a fair bit cheaper than Bangkok.

Our first afternoon was a dusty ride to the Tiger Temple, to visit the tigers on the Buddhist Monks' reserve. A volunteer/guide quickly leads each tourist around the performance canyon, with a quick pet of 2 or 3 tigers and several photos. Amazing experience when you think about it afterwards. Plenty of other animals there as well, water buffalo, chooks, cattle, horses, boars, deer, goats, eagles. Beer agian... Leo is the best of the tallies, at 60B (5%!)and a good taste.

Today we rented scooters... I was on the back of Tony's out to Erawan falls, 65km/ 1 1/2 hour. The falls have 7 tiers and it's a good 1.5km trek through the bush to get to the top... plenty of steps (never the same height), tree roots, rocks, rickety bridges all worn by the many feet... very polished in places. The waterfalls are beautiful, no. 7 especially. Well worth the trek. Beautiful limestone bottom, blue water, lush green moss and ferns and palms around. Scootering back by myself was quite scary... best way to get around though. Quick visit to River Kwai Bridge... walk along the tracks that still carry a tourist train.

Tomorrow we are probably headed out to Hellfire Pass, on the scooters again (they are manual and still haven't managed to get the hang of stopping). Day after is probably departure for Pai/ Chiang Mai. North anyway.