Sunrise at Angkor: got up in the dark, 4:15am to cycle (we were motoring out there, racing dawn) out to the temples. Hit some potholes along the way and lost my breakfast baguette.
Managed to find the hill, Phnom Bakheng that is apparently great to view the sunrise from. Nearly missed it because there wasn't a massive hoard of tuk tuks and buses there, as for sunset the day before. Ilegally climbed up some steep and rubbled steps in fear of missing the big event. It was wonderful to see the temple as I neared the top of the steps, exhausted after powering on the bike and climbing up the hill.
There were only around 10 other people at the hilltop temple. Quite serene. There were a few clouds on the horizon so the sky became light before a red sun broke through. Very dramatic to watch the mists over the forests disappear and Angkor Wat across the way become visible.
Felt very small and insignificant in the great scheme of things, sitting on the steps of a centuries old temple, amongst forest and land that has existed for thousands of years, under an immense blue sky and an ancient sun.
The rest of the day was filled with breakfast, a disappointing ovaltine shake (available only in Laos and Thailand it seems), a siesta, a devious monk (took us on a tour of his pagoda then asked us for money) and exploring Angkor Thom.
Angkor Thom, on the whole, wasn't as interesting as some of the other temples. Most of the temples are only a fraction of what they used to be. The Terrace of the Leper King and Terrace of the Elephants had beautiful carvings though.
Today, I did Angkor Wat. I am glad I left it till last. Most of the other temples probably would have seemed quite plain in comprison. Angkor is huge. Initially I got so overwhelmed by the size of it (and the large number of tour groups there at the time) I had to take some time out and just sit at one of the external galleries (with my back to a magnificent bas relief) and take in the grounds and the raised walkway.
Finally got my act together and climbed to the very top level to spiral my way down. There is actually a fair bit of climbing involved in some places. It's satisfying to see that not everywhere in the world has gone health and safety mad- there's still some adventure to it. Explored the spires and levels and grassed areas. Even walked outside the temple walls for a while, and got to take in the enormous moat.
Visited the Aki Ra Landmine Museum on the way home. Interesting in a different way. Lots of disabled mines about the place, staggering statistics and photos of the man and his work who is doing a great job for people still affected by the remnants of war.
A massage again by the Seeing Hands, after all the biking and climbing and walking.
More transit travel tomorrow. About 10 hours to Sihanoukville, a beach town in the south.
Am really enjoying Cambodia.
