As
we drive north of Sagres, the coastline of Portugal grows more
dramatic. The furthest southwesterly point on the European continent
is Cabo de Sao Vincente, a windswept point, jutting far out into the
ocean, equipped with lighthouse and fortaleza (fortress). We proceed
further north to check out the beaches of Pria de Beliche which still
shows no signs of surf. Further north we wind through the Parque
Natural do Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina, thick with plant
species native and some only found here in Portugal. The cliffs are
magnificent, and the land is wild, undeveloped and nicely protected by
the government and park system. Approaching the next town,
Carrapateria, we are sure we'll find surf. This is the place known on
the southwest coast as the mecca for surfers. We check out Pria da
Borderia and see an amazing sight. Despite having no surf, the beach
is a big desert, windswept sands blow through the valley, market on one
end by rugged hills and cattle cruising in lines across the hills into
the valleys, and strung together by a wide river that fills and recedes
during the extreme tides that this area experiences. The river bed
fills with emerald green water, and gives way to a beautiful green and
blue ocean, market on the southern end by a jutting headland of dune
and desert scrub. We can see the great possibilities here on a western
or southerly swell, wrapping long lefts around the point, and driving
down the miles of massive beach expanse. This town feels like it's
only one tenth the size of Sagres, and seems to exist only for the hard
core beach and surfing community.
Further
afield we hit the very Moorish town of Aljezur, and head west to check
out the beaches of Pria da Arrifana, Pria de Monte Clerigo and Pria de
Amoreira. Dramatic black winding cliffs give way to golden sand
beaches. Here we see even better potential for surf, as there are
reefs and points scattered throughout the coastline here, and lots of
little peaks, albeit very small.
About
30 more minutes up the road we come to a really cool little beach
called Pria de Odeceixe. The town is set back about 3M or so, and they
have a little toy train that transports people from the town to the
beach and back. This beach is fully set up with surfboard and wetsuit
rentals, and again, has loads of potential for surf. There are a few
long boarders out, and we kick it there for a bit watching the sunk
sink a bit lower over the majestic cliffs. We stop for the night at a
little granny's guesthouse. She speaks no English, we very little
Portuguese, but enough to know where to park and when to check out.
We're set for the night in this quaint coastal town of whitewashed
terraced homes, cobblestone streets and amazing beaches.
