Aussie Slang
Give it a burl : try it, have a go
Whacker, whacka : Idiot; somebody who talks drivel; somebody with whom you have little patience; a dickhead
Gobsmacked : surprised, astounded
glen is teachng me aussie surf terms like " he whacked that wave" and he is " going off!" Both are interjections to a positive occurance in this contet.
Surfing Part Two: I whacked the white wash again over and over. I decided to rent a long board for a few hours as my surf instructor recommended during my first lesson. He suggested that i do it while another class is in session so i can hang next to them. I really wanted to get settled in to the feel of the ocean and the board. I began by going into the wake and working out my form. After about the twelfth pass, and exhaustion setting in, the instructor called me over to give me some advice. He said to take a break in between two or three passes and my body would be less tired. It was definitely what i needed to hear. Being an out of shape, out of practice swimmer was contributing to my waning stamina. I felt frustration and saltwater start to weigh on me. So thankfully i heeded his advice and reclined in the sand next to my board.
Enter Japanese photo shoot
while chillin next to the water, a Japanese woman in a dress and scarf approached me to take her picture by the ocean. I snapped one shot and then she began to,twirl and laugh and wave her scarf in front of her. It was on.....i was part of a full blown photo,shoot. She fake laughed as if her lover was behind the camera capturing her in an intimate casual moment. I then proceeded to switch her camera to video mode. I started recording and then ( im laughing at this memory) quickly moved closer to her as she smiled and flipped her pagmina in the air, looking around at the ocean. This lady was a STAR of her own charming beach memory. Once it was captured i handed her back her camera and she thanked me profusely. imgrabbed my board and headed back into the water but this time, not only was i refreshed, but the lady was now watching me. She waved me to go out to the ocean and had her camera in a ready position to capture the ....greatest surfing action shot of ALL TIME...i stood with my head held high and laughed almost to tears as i headed into,the blue. Once i found a good spot, i turned toward the beach and waited for my little mountain of water to carry me away into a hang that would be a 12. This woman was about o see something AMAZING. The wake gradually came toward me, i leaned forward and felt the push And with all the strength i could muster, i jumped onto the board, wobbled onto my knees and flopped right into water face first. It was all relatively seemless. Wonder what her subtitles read at that moment...
rest of day went:
Bike shop, juice and baklava
coffee shop w internet
fat nap
Wonton soup with Glen
shopping at Big W for a hairdryer.
Red bandana tomorrow
Gooood night
