Don't worry the title will all become clear near the end....Read on
Mon 27th Jul - Continuing on from my last posting from here....Need to get on with
some activities or the days will just evaporate and will have achieved nothing.
Not that that would be a problem, but I always feel I need to use my time well,
gaining something from it. Two options are high up on my list that I didn't do
last time I was here.
Option 1 is Zorbing or Zorb
Ball is it is known here. This is
where you climb into a large clear plastic ball and go whizzing down a hill
side until you come to rest at the bottom.
The potential for fun...and throwing up of course...is high. You can also have the options to have a couple of
buckets of water thrown in there with you or even share the ball with another
person. Now doesn't that sound hilarious fun!
Option 2 is
less thrilling but advertised as Thailand's number 1 attraction....The 'Flight
of the Gibbon'. A 3km course set up in the canopy of a forest, incorporating
walkways, zipwires and abseils. Sounds
similar to what I have done before, and a bit pricy at over 2,000 Baht
including collection and drop-off from Chiang Mai, but might get to see some
wildlife, mainly of the human variety.
Tue 28th Jul - Today started with good intentions. Well the
intentions were inside my head as I overslept and got up at 10am. Late for me
and lost half that day by the time I had breakfast at the Leprachaun Irish
restaurant on Loi Kroh. Was gonna do this, do that, but ended up not doing
much. Hadn't read a book in a while so checked out a couple of used book
stores. Got a funny book about stories from expatriates in Asia. Tales of
mayhem and dodgy situations guys get themselves into in this continent designed
and developed to distort the mind, weaken the body, but enrich the soul with
all things distracting to the focussing on the straight and narrow. For many
never returning to their homeland after a dose of its intoxicating effect. And
in that theme... had an oil massage, and that seem to lose up some more time.
Hungry work this, so time for another meal at the Mayflower on Loi Kroh. Then
got a nice call to meet with a friend from the last time I was here. Day turned
into night over a drink, and conversation about how difficult it is to make
certain things succeed here. Both of us keen dancers, but after many years of
attempting every combination of dance teaching, none working. So with
disappointment having to give up and quit the country, purely to find a place
to dance with people who are interested and capable.
Read an interesting comment later about my
last posting that said something about me being less like Peter Pan these day
and more like a lost boy and minding the Crocodile. From someone I don't think
I know, so that was interesting. Have I ever been like Peter Pan? And
crocodiles are everywhere to bite a poor innocent boy like me. Anyway, cryptic
messages over....
Another great night of music at the Guitar Man
with a regular musician Tum, plus a blues / rock band. My first glass of red
wine in a while and that mellowed the evening even more. Hence writing this
journal stretched out on a raised cushion area, the beat going on and my mind
wandering.
Got on-line earlier and managed to catch my
Shiera on webcam. Looking lovey and happier than previously, it made me a bit
homesick. Will be back with her soon.
Wed 29th Jul - A further comment on my journal referring to Peter Pan.
Well for some reason my last posting seemed to have stimulated some comments
about me rather than or in connection with my journey. Interesting timing as it
is all going on, and to some who have been close in my past, has been going on
for some time. My direction needs to be brought to some sort of focus, and it
has to be done sooner rather than later. I supposedly got off the road in the
Philippines to sort this out, and instead of doing that fell straight into a
relationship with a very special lady, who captviated me, and so I never had
time to really sort it out. My stock phrase I have used is...the right person,
in the right place and at the right time. Well, the place is the issue at the
moment and it doesn't tick the boxes for what I need out of life. But with the
right person, we can move to the right place....as long as we both want the
same things in life. I am reminded of a chance meeting with a traveller in
Vientianne in Laos, who had been travelling for 21 years, with no idea why. He
had no purpose, and had lost his way. He was much younger than me and I think
in a worse position. It is more likley to happen as you get older and life
seems to be moving on and you start to ask yourself what you have achieved in
this phase of your life. I know many things about my needs and what is required
of the future. The problem has been to be honest about it and get on and sort
it out. Honest to myself as well as those I care about around me. One thing I
definitely need is social stimulation of the visual and vocal kind (music and
conversation that is), and I get absolutely non of that in the part of the
Philippines where I currently live...totally dead as far as a social life with
the right kind of people. No music whatsoever to just chill to and sing along
with apart from Videoke of the painful kind, and absolutely no dancing unless
you go to the dire mess of Manila and asphyxiate yourself with pollution in a
conflicting aim to stay healthy, with a healthy mind and body. So that is that
in a nutshell and major problem number 1 to resolve. I need to move somewhere
else and hopefully before I go into self destruct mode and my head disappears
up my own arse in a puff of smoke.
On
a separate subject...have I mentioned the Jao
Tee? Well if not then maybe I should. Almost every house in Thailand and
many other properties, have outside what looks like a very ornate replica of a
shrine or traditionally designed house. Offerings are left at this 'Shrine' to
appease the 'house spirit'. This is the spirit that will make your property
safe, protect it from evils and generally keep out the spooks. Do not respect
it, and you could be in for some serious misfortune. Stories abound about what
goes wrong when you do not understand and respect the spirit. Things magically
fly off tables and strange things happen like your property is haunted. Get it
right, and all calms down and becomes harmonious. Believe it or not, it is a
way or fact of life here, and not just a superstition.
Breakfast
at the Wild Boar Inn on Loi Kroh, so
far the best English breakfast around as it is run by a native UK lad. A good
hearty start to the day.
And
so, as I watch the shops prepare themselves for a new day of business; the ice
merchants deliver bags of it to bars and restaurants; novice monks resplendent
in their orange robes striding past with their sack bag over their shoulder; an
old lady with a zimmer frame slowly but purposefully make her way along; small groups
of travellers with their copy of the Lonely Planet bible tucked under their
arm; and many Sawngthaew on their way somewhere with travellers on board, I am
now reminded that the day is moving on and need to get my ass in gear and do
something with it.
So
ran off to the 'Flight of the Gibbon' booking office opposite thr Boonmee
Mansion Guest House, and luck would have it they had a promotion on, so only
cost 1,900 Baht complete with pick-up, so booked it on the spot and only had an
hour before I was due to be picked up. Quicly picked up a couple of snacks in
case of dire hunger, as the girl in the office said there was no food provided'
only water at the end of the course. Other drinks available at additional cost.
So on with the walking boots and off for some activity for a change
Aircon
minivan arrived and departed on time at 1pm then collected a few more
passengers before setting off for proper into the countryside. Around an hour
to get there from Chiang mai and a really nice journey too passing some pretty
traditional thai houses.
A
quick intro to the activity and on with a harness and helmet, then off we go.
The 'Flight of the Gibbon' is an aerial course of zipwires, wooden rope bridges
and a few abseils through the forest canopy. It is a bit tame by adrenalin
junky standards and there was a ten year old girl in one of the other groups,
so that tells you how difficult it is. The guides are very good and friendly.
They do this three times each day and so play around a lot to alleviate the
repetitiveness. Lucky for us the rain held off and started just as we finished.
The zipwires vary from really short to long and bouncy. Fortune struck and we
saw some real Gibbons swinging though the trees, so that made it worth it. It
is almost impossible to take a good camera and so I left it all behind and just
had a compact one, which are almost useles for taking good photgraphs under
these conditions. Anyway, memories are better than photographs in most cases.
They
lied...just as we thought it was all over and headed towards the minivan to
come back, they stopped us and asked us to go to the house for dinner. They had
laid on a nice three course meal of curry soup and rice with spiced vegetables
and some fruit. A pleasant trip back to town arriving around 7:30pm.
The
evening didn't really evolve into much as i had been busy and was tired. Still,
squeezed in some chat time with my Shiera back in the Philippines and then went
out for a rather poor meal at a place I won't mention, but had passed a few
times and thought it looked ok. Looks can be decieving. Then after walking in
the cool evening air for a time, got dragged into a bar....honest...to play
pool and drink coffee for a while and hey presto...it was 1am. Now where did
that time go....I have no flippin idea?
Thu 30th Jul - Heading back to Bangkok tonight so had to pack up my
stuff. Went for breakfast first with a lovely girl from Japan and chatted for a
while about stuff. Then jumped in a Sawngthaew to the railway station to buy my ticket for tonight. All of the lower
berths were full and so, yet again only managed to get the freezing top bunk.
That means no sleep again I reckon.
To
be honest I would stay the full 30 days in Thailand and it hasn't been 2 weeks
yet, but things are a little strained back home and have to return. It is only
fair, so will spend a few days in Bangkok and then fly back to Manila early
next week. Later on in the day booked my cebupacific flight for Monday.
Another
traveller arrived at the Boonmee from Switzerland, so spent a little time
chatting then went for a superb meal at the Mayflower again.
The
rains started and continued on and off for the rest of the day. Had a short
rest back at the Boonmee and was about to fall asleep when I thought I would
miss my train if I did, and so headed off to the station instead. The carriage
I was in was the usual refrigerated type. You could feel your body temperature
plummet on entry and the cryogenic freezing process commence.
Early
on one of the noisiest familest on the planet boarded and sat opposite me. Oh
sh1t...not one of those bunch who have no consideration for anyone. I have
never understood why some people have never learnt the art of whispering, and
communicating in a low calm voice. Everything shouted at full volume to someone
a mere one meter away. The train hadn't even set off and I wanted to kill them.
It
was an interesting combination of travellers I was sharing my section with. A
pretty Korean student journalist on her first trip outside of Korea, who spoke
some English and was a giggly sort. She looked like a typical advert for a
korean selling mobile phones. Seen them on the billboards. Black hair and white
fair skin, Plus a French girl who just stared at anyone who spoke to her. It
became apparent that she was French although initially she did not respond to
anyone. It was funny actually as the Korean girl wanted to talk with her, and
the French girl just stared back. I though she was mute until she ordered her
meal in English! Then I thought she was just a wierdo, who didn't like people.
She kept looking at me and smiling and then across at the Korean girl and
smile, but no words. It was like a three way conversation without a script and
only eye contact. After a while I decided I would break the crazy atmosphere
and just read my book. She took a little interest in what I was reading and we
eventually exchanged a few words in French with some English thrown in for
detail. She then coccooned herslef in a sleeping bag and went to sleep.
Dinner
was served albeit in a very staggered order and then the beds were made up and
time to hit the sack. That is when the ticket guards came around to check
tickets for the second time. The French girl was in the wrong carriage and had
been since leaving Chiang Mai. The previous guard punched her ticket and never
made any comment, so she was moved, and replaced by somene else. After bed
swapping was complete, off to bed. Yippee, this one was better than the last
and not as cold.
Had
a disturbed night mainly due to the rocking and jumping motion of the train.
Arrived at Hua Lamphong station at 8:15am. Was suppoed to be 7am, but I guess
it never makes that time.
Straight
out to the Metro to Silon and then transfer to the BTS skytrain at sala Daeng
and soon enough at the Soi 1 Backpacker Guest House. Check-in, and then
straight to bed absolutely shattered.
Fri 31st Jul - After a brief rest followed by a great shower and freshen
up, it was time to head out. It was late so had Breakfast / Lunch at the Elefin café a short way down Soi 1 and then headed out for a walk to Lumpini park via Erewan shrine Lumpini park. Spent most of the day there just relaxing, watching the public aerobics and then off to the Night Bazaar for a meal and listened to a live Thai rock band. Apart from that, not much happened today.
Sat 1st Aug - Caught a Khlong boat from the bottom of Soi 1 for 12 Baht going west to Wat Saket changing a Pratunam. I had been here before but it does offer a great view of Bangkok. The weather was clear and the view great. So many people as usual here doing their pilgrimage and worshipping rituals, so a good place for people watching. Then caught a moto taxi for 50 Baht to Vinanmek Mansion. Walk past the tuk-tuks as they want to rip-off at 200 Baht!
The mansion is actually part of a large complex with a single entrance fee of 100 Baht. If you have been to the Wat Phra Kew / Grand Palace then your ticket gets you in here for free. The mansion is the only part i actually wanted to see so walked briefly around the rest. Niccece buildings from the colonial era made from teak. The mansion is a well organised arrangement. No photography allowed inside and so have to surrender that before they let you in. Cover up so needed a shirt and trousers, no footwear. The entrance covers a 30 minute guided tour of the house in English. Lovely furnishings of such high quality and a nice rlaxed pace. After doing the tour, back to get my camera then you are allowed to photograph the outside of the building only. Plenty of eateries in the complex and so had a nice chicken sukiyaki and iced coffee before walking to flower market and then onto ferry station N15. This walk is a long one but interesting as it not only passes the very pretty flower market, but also a section of seafood sellers, a nice temple and a buddhist prayer bowl manufacturer.
Alongside the pier it teams with fish and yoou can buy bags of stale bread to feed them. Thousands of em. Dinner is free for the taking if you have a net!. 12 baht down to Central pier.
Walk along Silom road and stopped for massage. Straight back to Soi 1 and quick
change before going to Siam Niramit show. 1,500 Baht. Metro from Asok and
shuttle service waiting. Traffic so heavy it took ages to get there and arrived
10 minutes before show begun. Told them I wanted to take photographs and they
wouldn't allow it. They take your camera equipment during the show. Bastards!
Show
started at 8pm and lasted for 90 minutes. This was the second time I had seen
the show. The last time was January 2008.
From what I recollect it is exactly the same as then not that that is a problem
as it is a narrative about the history of Siam, know Thailand of course, and
history doesn't change. The venue is the largest stage in Asia with a seating
capacity of 2,000. Tonight it was about two-thirds full I reckon. Being such a
rich and elaborate culture makes for a fantasia of costumes and music
throughout. Beautiful sets and haunting melodic rhythms. For part of the
performance the front of the stage opens into a river with a boat sailing down
it, thunder and lightening overhead and a downpour of rain...yes, rain on
stage. A pretty section has floating candles in ornate baskets floating down
the river ceremoniously. Illuminated winged ladies fly around through the
audience and stage. Elephants appear from the sidings into the audience area.
Flashes of coloured steam from the ground in front of the upper audience.
Flying deities across the stage. It has it all. There isn't much more they
could add as it demonstrates perfectly the richness of the country's past and
their belief system.
On
this visit I have seen both this show and the Calypso show repeated from
earlier visits. Both remind me of the reason why I love this country. I like
culture, flamboyance, extrovertness and the fact that anybody can do anything
and get away with it. Acceptance is all part of life here. The sheer stunning
beauty of the ladies, and that includes the ladyboys (aka Gatoys or just
'Toys'), the gracious nature and wonderful architecture all make this country
unique. And all shape it to be the dream destination for most who have never
been here, and the magnet that keeps us coming back for those who have been drawn
by its allure.
By
the time the show finished and I had reclaimed my camera, the throngs of people
clammering around the performers outside for a snapshot, made it impossible to
take any of my own photographs. Crazier than the last time I was here, with
people pushing and shoving to get their chance for a shot. Frustrating, so gave
up and headed back on the free shuttle to the Metro station.
Was
early still and ended up playing pool is a bar I have been to a few times and
then hit the sack in the early hours of the morning.
Sun 2nd Aug - I fly back to Manila tonight, well 00:10, so actually
Monday morning. It has been too short really as I intended it to be upto 1
month and will be going back after only 2 weeks. Some things need sorting out
back there and it is prudent to go now.
I
always miss Bangkok, and despite the number of times I have been, there is so
much I still haven't done. Could spend another week just here this time. It is
a workaholic metropolis that never sleeps. The hoardes of workers and shoppers
during the day, taken over by the nightlife seekers. Sometimes it is nice to
just walk and watch. You see it all here. Every few metres the approaches for
'Massage Sir', and 'I go with you', make for the usual battle of hormones
versus how fast could you empty your wallet if you wanted to? The reality is
that it is all very shallow, and these girls/ladyboys, might look like the best
thing on the planet, but you wouldn't trust any of them one bit. They are
programmed to lie and tell you what you want to hear. Make you feel like a
king, and then empty your wallet with a smile and you would help them do it,
and then realise the scam too late. But probably do it again another night
thinking you are wiser and won't get caught again....but you will.
Walking
through the market stall each night is like Deja Vu. The same banter going
on...same same but different. They play the same script over and over
again...first the price is too high, then they drop it a bit, then you walk
away, so they drop it again. But they will remember your face for days and the
next time they see you they will remember the clothing or item you were
interested in and the price you wanted, and they will strike again. The reality
is that it is the same process with every customer and normal life for them.
Come midnight or 2am, they pack it all away and go home to repeat it all again
tomorrow.
I
do find that it is stimulating though and food for writing. For anyone like me
who loves to observe life and culture, here is an overdose of it, in a
manageable city. I really don't like cities as I have said so many times
before. But If I had to live in one, this would be it I think. I know where is
stand and can handle it, and don't go running for the escape hatch that quick.
I have not looked at actually living here long term, as that is a much
different scenario. Not working in a city like this means it could soon wear
off, so not sure about that. Not being an avid shopper, and not interested in
the hooker scene, it removes a major chunk of what this place is about. Ok in
bursts but not long term. The 'City of Angels' is certainly that. Full of
heavenly bodies of all persuasions, but if you are not part of that, just a hot
seething mass of energy that drains your batteries after a while.
As
an aside...I was sat on the Metro yesterday opposite two american white gay
guys. Their body language to each other was so lovey and, you know...out in the
open poncy touch feely flirtation, that it was amusing to watch. Sat to one
side, an old lady reading her newspaper. In front a few students listening to
music on their mobiles. The usual kids with a cellphone permanently on-line to
their survival umbilical chord. A stunner of a girl wth another few bags of
expensive looking clothes to swell her immaculate wardrobe....but, it is all a
normal, everyday scene. Nobody bats an eyelid, or stares, or deliberately turns
their attention away...because as I said...this is a place where acceptance is
the byword. Live and let live.
So
as I write this in the Elfin café on Soi 1, and think about what lies ahead, as
seems usual in my life, it is full of uncertainty. I left the Philippines to
come here for a while and do some things important to me, and going back ahead
of schedule. To what? Well I miss the love and being with someone who cares for
me, and I for her...Shiera. Yes I could play with lots of lovely ladies here if
I wanted to. They fall over themselves sometimes when they see a foreigner. But
you are only a walking dollar sign and as I said, it is very shallow and have
this feeling of mistrust in their intentions. I do not want to go through life
sceptical about everyone I meet as that is not fair to them. But the longer I
stay in places like this I sense the feeling of mistrust and potential deceipt
growing. All from talking with people who don't have a good word to say about
their experiences. They have all been fleeced. But then again there are many
many honorable ladies out their; those guys just haven't been shopping in the
honorable shop! And you would possibly be wondering all your life, if you met
an 'honorable' lady here, just how many guys she had been 'Honorable' with! You
would probably be afraid to ask. I am lead to remember a lady in my past who I
made the mistake of asking how many partners she had slept with. The answer
turned my stomach. Not only was the number high, but she couldn't actually be
accurate about it as there had been many. Needless to say, that was a very very
short relationship!
Changing
subject rapidly, I do need to be in a stimulating environment with kindred
people who can talk and open up about life and anything that matters. So this
is major hurdle number 1 that is sadly lacking back home. A loving partner has
to be accompanied by a social life, and that is a big task for me to resolve. I
just do not have a social life there. Being in a community with only one
Australian expat as my only contact who speaks English leaves me feeling empty.
Having
no career is the second and probably most important mountain to climb. You can
gather I like to write openly, and I have some ideas for books I would like to
write, so am thinking seriously about becoming a writer...tell me what you
think out there. Travel writing is one thing, personal writing is another. Not
into writing novels and fluffy stuff...just not me. Gotta be from the heart and
soul.
The
other thing I am trying to pursue is my Photography. Love it and want to be
more professional about it. The two go together in some ways and separate in
others, so can have my cake and eat it if I want. Time will tell I guess, but
being in the right environment to stimulate my mind and not feel empty with no
direction is the most destructive of situations that I must escape from. A
story I have told for a long time and need to get on with it. I am 49 and they
say you cannot teach an old dog new tricks. Well this dog isn't that old and
wants to learn new tricks. Live long and prosper!
I
think that is enough for now. Will mess around the rest of the day until ready
to go to the airport and then back to another world.
Will
try to post loads of photos when I am back in the Philippines as haven’t had
the time here.
Bye
for now
