Sat 28th Feb
- Woke up at 7am and decided on doing an island
tour this morning. Most leave at 9am, and so jumped out of bed and went to the El Nido Boutique & Art Café to see what was on offer. Opted for tour B for
650 pesos including barbeque lunch.
The seas were choppy this morning and off to a rough start. A few stops for
snorkeling, one near to a private Island where we couldn’t land. Another was a stop on 'Snake Island', so
called due to the winding sand-bar that snakes its way from the island into the
sea. The water is shallow enough to walk the length of the sand-bar with the
South China Sea coming at it from both sides and causing a swirling motion as
the two meet in the middle.
Lunch was a
fish barbeque on a lovely white sand beach on a small island. Idyllic location
and pleasant swimming. A few other stops at beaches and caves during the day,
and a pleasant time.
Dinner at
‘Squidos’ in the evening. Service a bit slow, but they were busy, so didn’t
matter.
Sun 1st Mar – A chillin day today ahead of heading back to Puerto Princesa tomorrow.
Could hear sounds from the local church from soon after sunrise. The bells and
call to service followed by the sermon over the sound system. Was drifting in
and out of sleep during it, so it sounded surreal.
Shiera had an
idea to have a barbeque on a beach somewhere near, so we needed to gather the
stuff for that and work out how we were going to cook it. A fish is easy as
there are plenty of people walking around in the streets selling excellent
varieties in the morning, but left it until the afternoon so we didn't have to
store it. Got a couple of excellent Jack fish for 55 pesos. Fresh vegetable are
easy to sort out. El Nido is nestled below an awesome rock with sheer cliff
face, making for a dramatic location. What it lacks at the moment though is a
nice sunset. For that, you have to go to the other side of the rock, to an rea
called Corong-Corong, so we made that
our destination for a beach barbeque and sunset. Got a tricycle to the start of
the beach. A pretty place with old fishing village feel to it. Set amongst a
long stretch of palm trees and a clear view of the setting sun. My job was to
build that fire. Easy enough to do as plenty of dry coconut shells, coir and
dried leaf. Had a fire going within minutes. Another thing I had worked out, is
that the base of a dried coconut leaf is very strong and perfect as a 'shelf'
for cooking fish and the vegetables on. Also found a coconut shell to heat up
some rice over the fire and use as a serving bowl. A couple of large tough
leaves to prepare food on and eat off, couldn't have been easier. Finished of
with fresh mango and mango juice. The whole meal cost a little over 100 pesos
and was gorgeous. Close to where we were cooking were a bunch of kids playing
on a rope swing and an old boat. A beautiful place with a lovely atmosphere. A
couple of dogs appeared and were lucky enough to get the leftover pickings from
our fish, so nothing left.
Walked along
the beach to pick a nice spot to watch the sun go down. Found a fallen palm
tree to sit on, and luckily soon after a couple of old ladies appeared, who
turned out to own the land behind us. They had brought a guy along to climb a
palm and bring them down some Buko (fresh young coconut), and treated us to a
couple whilst we watched the sun set. The most stunning sky we had seen in
ages. Every colour imaginable. One of the ladies was from Manila and had some
land investments in places for future development. This place is a goldmine.
Any investment will multiply manyfold over the next few years. Corong-corong is
going to be the successor to El Nido I think. A few places aleady open with
nipa huts, and also a few upper class places. There is plenty of building going
on and it is easy to see the potential here. What was more noticeable here, is that we got the feel of
being unwanted in El Nido. The treatment from the locals isn't good. Hardly a
smile, and often poor response from them. They want the tiourist money, to the
point of greed, but don't want the tourists! However, Corong-Corong seems a
much friendlier place. To be honest, I don't like El-Nido much. It doesn't have
much to offer, but Corong-Corong is much nicer, and only a short walk or
tricycle ride away. It doesn't have any electricity yet, and so most places are
on generator or candles at night. The sight of one Sari-sari store after
another, running on a single candle light, is a trip back in time. Quiet apart
from the occasional dog bark or a passing motorbike, it was a lovely walk back
to town. Had been a tiring day, and time to pack up for early departure in the
morning. Zzzz.....
Mon 2nd Mar - Croissants from the bakery with cheese, and coffee for breakfast on the
verandah overlooking the bay as the day lit up. Had boked a couple of seats in
a minivan back to Puerto Princesa leaving at 7am. Cost 500 each and should take upto 6hours for the 280km journey.
A few operators are charging 600 and the public bus costs 350 pesos (leaves
5am, 7am and 9am and takes 9 hours). Had
used the public bus from Sabang, so fancied a bit more comfort and thought it
worth the extra cost. Only five of us and had the front seats, so loads of
legroom and comfortable seats. No dust!
Stopped
in Roxas for lunch, but wasn't hungry so went for a walk around. The main road
into town goes to the seashore, which doesn't have much to offer, but has a few
places for snacks and an outback town feel about it. Noticed the cost of buying
a motorbike here. Brand new for 30,000 pesos, 2nd hand for 14,000. Really cheap
and all you need to get around. No wonder there are plenty to rent as they get
their money back pretty quick at 500 or so a day.
From
just approaching Roxas onwards, the road is surfaced or concrete. Prior to that
it had been mainly dirt track, with tiny sections of concrete. Once we hit the hard stuff the pace
went up and he flew. Got to Puerto at 1 o'clock or so. Stayed at the 'White
view Paradise Hotel', which was a tidy place although not central. Wasn't
bothered as only here one night ahead of flying tomorrow. A short trip into
town in the afternoon to go to the Post Office and get some cash. This is the
only place with an ATM in Palawan, and so time to stock up before moving on.
Puerto Princesa isn't the sort of place where you want to stay for long as it
(sorry to say this) doesn't have anything to capture the interest, so gave up
walking around after only half an hour and went back to the hotel.
Went
to the nearby Balinsasayaw restaurant for dinner. They have another branch in
Silang which we have been to a couple of times, and so wanted to see what this
was like. The menu was more or less the same and the dining in Nipa huts like
in Silang, although the Silang location is better, and quieter.
Tue 3rd Mar - Fly to Cebu at noon with Cebupacific on flight 5J228. As usual
with the philippines, I just had my eTicket number on arrival at the airport.
The security wouldn't let us in until I went to the Cebu office and printed out
the voucher. They wanted 100 pesos and I refused, so they let me go without a
charge. Another scam I guess. The normal disarray of five levels of security
stood next to each other, all checking the same ticket. One just touched it and
didn't even look. It is all a farce, and I am sure, done for job creation. You
regularly see the security sweeping the floor, watering the plants, stacking
luggage. Anything to keep busy. 40 pesos terminal fee.
The
flight took off early and arrived in Cebu half an hour early. Hadn't spent much
time thinking what to do when we got here. Just decided to arrive at the airport
and take it from there. No guidebook and no information. Picked up some maps
from the information desk and realised that Mactan, the island that Cebu
airport is on, looked worthy of a night's stay. Found a budget place at the Anemone Resort and rang ahead to book a
room. Outside of the door of the airport are the fixed price services wanting
296 pesos for any journey. Pass them, cross the road and up some steps and the
metered taxis are waiting. Cost just over 100 Pesos to get us there! The driver
mumbled and moaned a lot about not wanting to use the meter, but tough, it is
our prerogative and much cheaper.
Budget
means budget...right? 690 pesos a room, with swimming pool and sea view. The
problem is...this is Korean territory. Soon realised that they own the whole
area, or seem to. Stuff here costs upto three times in the north of the
philippines. A simple meal costs 400 pesos upwards. Drinks much higher and the
rip-off prices on tricycles much higher. I guess it is because of its proximity
to Cebu city also, but shocked at the prices. A meal for two including drinks
elsewhere costs an average of 400 pesos, here 800 pesos. Some fairly swanky
resorts around. The Koreans seem to have bought up all of the beachfront, to
such an extent that you cannot walk on the beach without going through a
security gated resort entrance. Hired a tricycle later to do a tour, and
managed to get onto the beach for 15 minutes. Wasn't impressed to be honest.
Simple rooms are 3,500 minimum, and the facilities are basic and not as good as
elsewhere I have been. The cost of diving is extortionate. For two dives
including equipment hire, was going to cost 130 dollars...the highest I think I
have seen on my travels, and certainly within the Philippines. So no way I will
be diving here! I think this is where rich Cebuanas come to play, when away
from work, or doing business...not budget travellers for sure!
Walking
into town was fraught with its problems. Only a short way, but plagued by
tricycles and taxi drivers to the point of annoyance. Had to be abruprt with
them eventually to get rid of them. The market was extortionate too. Double the
northern prices for fruit.
The
tricycle took us to the Magellanes
monument and Lapu-Lapu statue, the native Barangay captain guy who killed Magellan,
both located on the northern waterfront in a nice park area, with some
traditional painted boats on display in the water.
Adjacent
to the park are some musical instrument stalls. Cebu is famous for handmade
guitars and lutes. Made to superb standard and inlaid with mother of pearl,
they were very attractive indeed. Decided to visit the Guitar factories, an
area full of dozens of manufacturers. Chose the Allegre factory and got a tour
around the various stages and a chance to play some lovely instruments. The
dearest was only around 30,000 pesos (440 pounds) including hard case...luckily
I didn't have a credit card to hand as I was strongly tempted....will sleep on
it!
A
walk around the local village is a bit more normal, and like other parts of the
Philippines, with a couple of exceptions. Cock fighting is prominent here, with
one bunch of guys asking us if we were interested in gambling on a fight. Local
high strength rhum is on offer alongside the ubiquitous Tanduay. The national
sport of basketball is everywhere. The Jeepneys here are rather sweet. Small
and brightly coloured, the whizz around the streets like a rainbow.
Had
no choice but to eat Korean in the evening. Every restaurant is either Koren or
Japanese. Went to a very flash place. I love Korean as it is always exciting to
eat, with a central table barbeque, and a sociable meal with plenty to try.
All
things considered, we have decided that one night is enough here and will aim
for somewhere cheaper tomorrow morning. Will decide in the morning.
Wed 4th Mar - Decided to head for Moalboal in southern Cebu Island.
Could have struggled with luggage on and off three stages of transport to get
to the bus station, but thought it easier and worth getting a taxi to South bus
station in Cebu city instead, which cost 250 pesos. Driving there was pleasant
enough, and showed the contrast between here and Manila. Much less traffic and
a slower pace. Clean and organised, with good roads. Cebu is nestled beneath a
range of hills, which gives it a pleasant location. The taxi dropped us
straight on to bus aimed for Badian, which makes a stop in Moalboal. Arrived in
Moalboal at 1:15pm, around 2 1/2hrs for 118pesos. We were treated to a white
knuckle rapid transport ride for most of the journey. I know how astronauts
feel when they go through atmospheric pressure training! A short stop on the
way where an accident between a Jeepney and a small van had only just happened.
No surprise really with the crazy speed of the traffic. The scenery is
beautiful, and much more pleasant I think than the hyped Palawan we had come
from. An unusual sight along the way was long stretches of drying pig skin,
ready for crackling. This is a local obsession. Vendors board the buses selling
large bags of it, along with sweetened crisped rice cake.
Arrived
in Moalboal town and then jumped a tricycle for 50 pesos to Panagsama beach,
about 4km away. A rough road for most of it, but noted the local cock fighting
arena on the way. Every wednesday and sunday they have a meeting which our driver
was keen I went to see. Not today, as wanted to get to get settled. If we are
here on Sunday then maybe will go. Another thing they are into here is spider
racing. Groups of guys huddle at the roadside as they gamble on their pet
spider. All good entertainment !
One
other thing of Note...compared to other places, Cebu is much brighter due to
the brightly coloured Jeepneys and tricycles that fly around. Larger in Cebu
city than Mactan Island due to carrying more passengers; Tricycles are very
clever and most with ornate design.
Settled
at the Quo Vadis beach resort for 750 pesos. Tried Sunshine cottages, which
wanted 700, but were poor standard by comparison. Other places next door were
no better. QV is german run and superb. Two restaurants on site and nice
swimming pool. No large beach but access to sea. The main White beach is about 4km away.
After
a nice swim in the pool we went walkabout. Panagsama is a small village with a
lovely relaxed feel to it. At Pacintos there is a small beach with
Plenty
of eateries, such as Roxy's food and music, Chili restaurant. Mollies
restaurant and garden.
Single
dives onlt for $28 all inclusive.
Hassle
over fish bought from passing women. Lapu-Lapu for 100 pesos. Restaurant wanted
75 pesos to cook each fish. Had argument with them and got all three for 100
pesos.
Local
sari-sari for everything we needed. Bottle of imported Californian red for 315
pesos.
Beautiful
sunset and clear sky for star-gazing.
Thu Mar 5th - Breakfast at Mollies place next door. There are a few
places around Panagsama beach which have been here for a very long time and
showing signs of it. The problem is that they still want to charge the same
prices as other, more recent places, and consequently are running empty.
Sunshine cottages was an example yesterday; an old pool which is empty, the
place in a mess, maybe being refurbished, very basic rooms which are messy, and
not even on the waterfront. Mollie's is the same and also empty. Quo Vadis is
tidy and clean, with good facilities that are maintained, and charging the same
price as these older places. There are of course, more upmarket places.
Had
a nice walk to the other section of this village and surprised to find it full
of guest houses, lodges and hotels plus numerous eateries of varying standards.
We were definitely in the quieter part. Whooppee...was able to get a thai
curry. Had been pining for one for a while. This part of the village is also a
bit more expensive. Not much beach, but what there was, was sectioned off by
the owning restaurant or hotel, making it awkward to get to for outsiders. The
afternoon heat was getting too much, so time to adjourn to the pool and finish
off the bottle of wine from last night. Heard a group of dolphins close to
shore whilst out walking in the evening. Too dark to see unfortunately.
Fri Mar 6th - Today was supposed to be diving at Pescador Island, but
the Quo Vadis boat was broken and they had to cancel the trip, so dived from
the shore instead ($23 inclusive). Was nice, but nothing special apart from seeing
a turtle. Have to make a decision on where to go after Moalboal. Have got
islanded out now, and not bothered about more island hopping to just see
another beach, as I reckon I have seen plenty already, so prefer to aim for
somewhere to see some history, so will most likely go back to Cebu for a few
days. Would like to see the Butanding (whale-shark) but enquiries suggest the
likelyhood being very low in this area. Had been to Donsol in Sorsogon a while
ago without success, but chances are higher now, so will work out a route to go
through that area again.
Sat Mar 7th - Today is my 49th birthday. As with other landmark events
nowadays, such as Christmas, it feels strange to be away from the UK. No
celebration, just another day and the usual decision of what to do and where to
go. Decided to head back to Cebu as there is nothing to do here but relax, and
had enough of that. Had a nice breakfast at the Tipolo resort, a couple of
minutes from Quo Vadis. Nice place with pretty accommodation and good food and
friendly staff...and most of all decent coffee. Tricycle back into town and no
time to wait before the Ceres Liner bus arrived. Only 90 pesos this time, but
one of thos 'Disco' type buses with the sound system blaring away throughout
the journey....does my head in, but unavoidable. This route is pretty, much of
it following the coast and lovely sea views, apart from the cross country
section through the hills. The Cebuanas are attractive people and very relaxed
in nature, so making for a pleasant place to visit.
Had
learnt that, what I thought was pork rind drying in the sun next to road on the
way to Moalboal, is in fact wood, called Gugo.
It is dried and cut into sections and used by the locals as a sort of shampoo.
Soak it in water and then rub it through your hair. Costs about 5 pesos a
block. Would never have guessed that. What has been interesting for Shiera is
that the language here is Visayan, not Tagalog, a totally different language.
Some Cebuanas speak both, but most don't. So even she has to communicate in
English...an alien here just like me!
Rang
ahead from the bus to book some accommodation in Cebu Downtown at the Pacific
Pensionne in the older part of town. Closer to the historic sights as opposed
to Uptown, which is supposed to be greener but requiring transport to see
anything.
That’s
it for now folks…..
