Wed 14th Jan – A day doing simple things and getting ready for
heading away tomorrow. Have decided to go to Boracay after Kalibo, so did some
research and booked accommodation for a few nights.
Thu 15th Jan - Had booked a couple of seats on the
Philtranco bus that was supposed to be leaving Cubao at 9am. Needed to be there
early enough to get the tickets and so had to set off from Silang at 5:30am. It
was a cold and windy morning, so waiting on the local highway for a bus to
Manila was a refreshing experience to begin the day with. Plenty of buses, so
didn't have to wait long and on to a local comfortable bus to Pasay. On the way
there we called the Philtranco bus company again, but this time Shiera spoke to
them. Whereas I had been told that we had to go to Cubao for the bus leaving at
9am, Shiera was told that we could go to Pasay terminal as the bus stopped
there anyway. Loads of time spare, so stopped at a coffee shop for breakfast
and a hot Cappuccino...one of those drinks that conjures up moments of
relaxation.
Got to the bus station and told the bus would
arrive at 9am as planned. Paid the 800 pesos for bus plus 8 pesos for insurance.
In the pre-departure area is a separate booth for the ferry tickets, which cost
577 pesos for the two ferry tickets each. Noticed that the bus ticket said 10am,
not 9am..could have some extra time in bed! It actually arrived at 10:40. All
under control! Getting out of Manila was the usual chaos, as the traffic
battled its way to work. Odly enough, we went to Cubao in the north to pick up
extra passengers before returning south to pick up the main super highway.
Shortly after departure a guy boarded who loaded up the aisles with large
baggage that meant everyone then had to climb from seat to seat to get through.
The rest of the journey was then an obstacle course when we had to get on and
off the bus.
The route use one of the 'Roll-On-Roll-Off'
routes that connect the major locations together in a combination of bus and
boat. Although the cost of flying here is cheap, the RORO cost is down to
almost half that price, but takes five times longer!
Our route goes from Manila to Batangas by bus,
then onto a roro ferry down to Calapan on Mindoro Oriental, crossing the Verde
Island passage. Then drive to Roxas and back onto another RORO to Caticlan
across the Tablas strait, and the final section to Kalibo on the bus, arriving
near to midnight.
Arrived in Batangas at 3pm, where I had been
before new year, when I went to Mindoro white beach. On that occasion I went by
Bangca. The vision on this occasion, of a beaten up old sailing vessel that
looked ready for the scrap-yard, was not what we expected. What it did have,
which was a nice touch, was many bunk-beds for those wanting to sleep. If you
weren't at the front of the boarding queue though, you could miss out, as there
was a rush on for the beds. A noisy place, with kids crying and competition
being set up with the sound system. The boat set sail at 4pm and for the early
part was smooth, then the rough waves began. As the boat crashed its way
through one wave after another, it felt at times as if the vessel would break
into pieces. Tried to catch some rest in one of the bunk beds, but gave up as
it was getting colder, and the swell of the waves was blasting spray through
the gaps in the surrounding screens making it really cold. Adjourned back
indoors and rode out the rest of the journey like a rollercoaster. Got into
Oriental Mindoro at about 7pm, and didn't waste time in getting everyone
boarded and on the road for the next leg to Roxas.
At this stage I was convinced this journey
would never make it in the 14 hours predicted. We had our host at the other
end, Bogs, expecting us at 11pm or so. A look at the map suggested it would be
more like 4am! The bus route down to Roxas took 2 Hours with absolutely nothing
to see, being night now. Pulled up at the port entrance and had to disembark
the bus and wait until the next ferry departure at midnight. A collection of
small stalls selling of all things, strings of garlic for decoration... why, I
have no idea?
Getting on the ferry was a bizarre event.
Considering that we had paid for tickets on the ferry, when it came to handing
them out it was a free for all, with the conductor playing some silly game with
the passengers in issuing them. Got annoyed with him a little, as it was
annoying everyone. The main point in getting the ticket was to get a better
seat, so you could lay down, the back of the queue meant sitting up the whole
journey.
Found out just prior to departure that this
ferry would take around 4 1/2hrs and then a further bus ride of maybe an hour
afterwards, which would get us in to Kalibo around 5:30am, a long time after
the original estimate of 11:30pm. Had to change arrangements with our host at
the other end to not arrive until tomorrow now.
The boat was smooth enough, with the usual
revolting toilets that you don't want to visit a second time. Full of vomit and
with a flush that didn't work. It is at times like this that the idea of flying
was so appealing. Still cheap and would have only taken an hour or so in clean
style and timed for arrival at a sensible time.
Fri 16th Jan - Arrived in Cataclan at about 5:45am. Managed
about 3 hours sleep last night outside on a hard bench in the fresh sea breeze,
so fairly washed out this morning. Back on the bus and off to Kalibo, arriving
about 7:30. The way there was beautiful; pretty villages, palm trees, calmness
at this time of the morning, with a gentle breeze outside. The sea looked nice
and the brief glimpse of some beach along the way was pleasant. Got into
Kalibo, and even though early, still plenty of activity. Police assistance
stands dotted about the town, which is bigger than I expected. Had to get a
tricycle from the bus stop to the central Plaza, where we were to meet our host
for the next few days, Bogs. Preparations for the festival were evident, with a
few vans loaded with drums passing by. The place we are in is a small community
Nipa type bamboo hut. Open and friendly family atmosphere with business in full
flow when we arrived.
The festival begins tomorrow morning at 9am
and runs through until Sunday, theoretically giving us time to relax and look
around before the main event. However, today was manic. Most groups were out
practicing, and the streets were crammed with dozens of bands dancing along
through the streets to the hypnotic rhythms of the drums. Many were dressed in
some form of eye-catching outfits and face decorations. Given that this is
fiesta, some go that bit further and look excellent. The Ati-Atihan is famed
for the tribal appearance, where folk blacken their faces and dress in
traditional costume. There will be more of this tomorrow, but got a glimpse of
what to expect today. It got to the stage where there is so much going on, it
is hard to take it all in. Sights every direction you look, people posing for
the camera at every click. Had a fantastic time, with my lovely friend Sheira
and I joining in with the festivities. To add a finale to the afternoon, we
both got henna tattoos done, first time for me, and something I have thought of
doing for a long time. Seemed appropriate today, as it was easy to get sucked
into the spirit of the event.
The place we are staying must rate as one of
the noisiest I have ever stayed in. Full of life, being a boarding house.
Chickens and pigs in the yard, kids running around making playful noises, the
family having a great social time. Couldn't be in a better place to live the
atmosphere of this carnival.
In the evening went out for more revelry. The
bands were still marching to the throbbing beat of drums, and the streets were
heaving again. The central Magsasay park had now come alive though with a
reggae band. Straight in to dancing mode...a small crowd were on the floor but
it was great fun. The boys were having fun going crazy, one guy with a chicken
mask, and Sheira and I had an hilarious time joining in. A media photographer
was following us a bit and me being the shy person I am...eheh... gave him some
good material hopefully. A couple of beers and a meal completed a great evening
of dancing until 11pm. The stalls had closed by that time as tomorrow will be a
very long day for most, so we returned to the hut for an early night.
Sat 17th Jan - Last night was a disturbed one, as noises are
plentiful and every little sound travels. The neighborhood dogs were having a
conversation barking back at each other with a
stereoscopic effect. The roosters were joining in and the sounds from
adjoining rooms kept filtering through.
In the early hours the new days sounds took
over from last night as the chickens signaled the start of a new day. Our
host's own chicken was right underneath the steps up to our room, and made sure
it was at full volume when it wanted us to get up.
Breakfast was served to our room, as is the
wonderful hospitality of our hosts...coffee and lechon (pig) with rice plus
eggs, sausages and gravy. This is the provinces and things are done different!
Unfortunately, it was raining heavily in the
morning, so not sure how the day will be affected by the weather. The show must
go on as they say, and Ati-Atihan is too big to be stopped by rain. Fortunately,
the rain stopped and the sunshine came out, with crystal clear blue skies. The
change of colour was awesome. There are 64 groups of dancers, not all tribal,
many from local companies. The costumes were stunning, ranging from funky
coconut designs, brightly coloured combinations made from various bits of
plastic bottles thru to dazzling feather displays. Each group with its own
throbbing band competing against each other for who an be the loudest. The
whole event is televised, and the best bands are awarded prizes, so they
perform with as much effort as they can muster in the heat. Many groups have
children who are so gorgeous and dance their little hearts out. The hyper
atmosphere is too much to take in sometimes, as it is coming at you from every
direction, to the point of overload.
Had to take regular breaks through the day to
re-charge the batteries...bought some Tanduay and made up a nice mix to add
some fuel. Tanduay rum is so cheap, in fact, it's cheaper than buying a soft
drink. 22 pesos for a half litre...yummee!
Back out in the evening with the expectation
of a big party in Magsasay park with fireworks. Got stuck in the main plaza
listening and dancing to really nice band for while. Then the rains started
again...but did it stop the festivities...nope...the extra water made it more
fun, with everyone splashing in the puddles and getting soaked. Excellent
fun...
Sun 18th Jan - Today is a major day of the Ati-Atihan
festival, where statues that commemorate Santo Nino are paraded through the
streets ahead of the respective bands. It is as lively as yesterday's parade,
but much the same, so spent a couple of hours watching and then decided to
escape the town to make our way to Boracay.
Getting out of town was chaotic with traffic
static for a while before we edged our way slowly to the outskirts. Picked up a
Montenegro fast ferry to Cagban on Boracay for 35 pesos that only took 5
minutes. The alternative banca cost 25 pesos and take 15 minutes.
At the Cagban side things are simple enough,
although, for us and our luggage they wanted 250 pesos to take us to white
beach with our luggage (cost us only 100 in the reverse direction! Going back).
Ended up hiring a mini Jeepney with some other foreigners for 30 pesos each. From
the tourism centre on white beach, everything is simple. I had booked into the
Bonzai resort on the internet, which is accessed through the Villa de Oro
resort.
So many places here that you're not stuck for
choice, although it is a pricy place.
A quick settle in then out to explore.....
White beach is beautiful, and well deserves
its reputation as one of the best beaches in the Philippines. The sand is pure
white icing sugar fine sand. The sea is perfect aquamarine and turquoise. The
beach lines with swaying palm trees. The slight down-side is that you cannot
see much of it due to the continuous wall-to-wall construction of resorts, bars
and restaurants that line it for almost its entire length. Although this sounds
bad, it is actually very quiet and relaxed during the day. Numerous massage
ladies offering services on the beach, plus many operators selling activity
tours....glass-bottomed Nemo boats, quad bikes, Para-gliding, banana boats,
jet-skis etc if you want it is there. As we had just been in a noisy hectic
place for a few days, this was time to relax and do nothing.
The night was disturbed by the constant drone
of a generator as the power was out to the whole island, and had been for the
past two days. They had to switch it off occasionally as it overheated.
Aahh...silence...and then it started again.
Mon 19th Jan - Tired this morning after a disturbed night of
generator induced stupor, so a day of relaxation, just swimming and generally
doing little. In the bay there is a pretty group of small jagged rocks, one of
which, Willy's rock', is surmounted by a shrine. With the tide in, they just
seem to sit on top of the transparent aquamarine sea like a postcard.
A lovely Indian meal in the evening. You can
eat every nationality here, a major plus point for anyone who likes their food.
Very high standard, and prices not too bad for this quality of location.
Tue 20th Jan - Went diving with Calypso divers at noon to
Crocodile Island. Most operators here charge the same price, 1750 pesos
all-inclusive of equipment hire. The cheapest is 1600 with guys on the beach
who aren't with a PADI operator, but all professional ones are the same price,
negotiable by 50 pesos at most. A 20 minute Bangca ride to the east of the
island and a nice 50 minute dive with just myself and the dive-master. The
conditions were excellent although colder than I expected. The shallow depths
were beautiful with a wide range of colourful corals and many species of
Nudibranch. Not that much fish life in this part, although, what there was is
interesting. A massive grouper and many Moray eels, Lion fish, Scorpion fish,
Lobster, Pipe fish, Blue box fish and Clown fish to name a few.
Didn't have time for breakfast before going,
so made up for it with a brunch at the funnily named 'Nigi Nigi Nu Noos e Nu Nu
Noo Noos'.
A gorgeous sunset this evening. The first we
had seen here as the previous nights were too cloudy and cold. Tonight made up
for it, with a stunning sky of golden hues contrasting against the metallic
grey and vivid blues. Many great bars along the beach with live bands or good
music, so spoilt for choice...
Wed 21st Jan - Breakfast at 'Nigi Nigi Nu Noos e Nu Noo
Noos'. Check out at noon and tricycle to ferry port at Cagban. Bangca to
Caticlan for 25 pesos plus 50 peso terminal fee. A number of bus companies
offering the roro service leaving regularly. Chose the Gasat Company for 1000
peso all-inclusive. A brand new bus and much nicer than the Philtranco we came
here with. The timing makes a difference too. We got on the bus and waited
until it was full. At that point they then choose the boat they are going to
board. We made the 2pm boat operated by Montenegro lines, although it didn't
depart until 2:45. A nicer quality boat than the Star ferries one we had come
on.
Why is it that there isn't a single ferry
company who has got the toilet situation sorted out. Smashed facilities, no
doors, a smell that could asphyxiate a pig, and always..always, containing
someone who is vomiting plus another who has to let the whole boat know he is clearing
his throat! The worse part is always the smell, and one that is the decider
between...boat...fly...boat...fly....fly...yes...fly! Worth paying double the
price on some routes just to feel human when you have to go to the toilet!
Also, despite running these ferries every day,
they are always overloaded and end up with bodies asleep sprawled around the
floor and propped up wherever possible. Makes travel interesting doesn't it?
Docked at Roxas at 7:30pm and then onto the
bus back to Calapan. The journey was just the reverse of the one taken coming
down here. The difference here was that the opportunities and the quality of
the sleeping arrangements wasn’t so good. Yes, it was a nicer bus, but the
seats were narrower and didn’t slope backwards, so almost impossible to sleep
in. The boat was better standard, but no beds like the one we came down on.
Finished up in Cubao at around 4am absolutely shattered. With almost no sleep
at all I was dead on my feet. Being the time was odd and the main reason for
being back in Manila at this time was to see if my post had arrived at the Central
Post Office, we had some time to kill before knowing what to do next. Went and
stayed at one of Sheira’s cousin’s house in central Manila for a while. This is
the real Manila that most people would imagine. Narrow streets with
multi-storey houses that have tiny entrances that don’t give away the space
inside. Many families sharing the same house. A rabbit warren with tiny
alleyways leading off into another maze of alleys. A guy walking the streets
selling soya from the aluminium pots on his shoulders, chickens in cages
outside of the house. Cats asleep on the tin roofs and the sounds of kids
crying that come from every direction. In the afternoon off to the central Post
Office by Jeepney and then the LRT Metro. A tiring and sticky way to get
around, and the reason why I would generally choose a taxi costing around
double the price. You get to your destination frazzled and in need of a break.
A taxi costs, but so much more relaxing…let the driver have the hassle. The post office is a grand edifice dating back
to the early days of the postal system. A blue clothed postman stands on top of
a plinth outside depicting the Philippine Post. Inside, a nice display of
memorabilia from the early days and a write-up on the history. Two floors of
old metal windows, makes it a vast place at first. It took me around three
attempts to find the correct window for ‘Poste Restante’ that is for foreign
mail addressed to the post office itself. Tried upstairs…not received. Tried
downstairs…nothing. Plenty of waiting and re-checking of the record books and
nothing. Oh well…had to come up with an alternative plan as there is no way of
knowing just when my package will arrive. It should have been here by now, but
alas nothing. They are closed for the weekend and so, if nothing arrives
tomorrow then I will have to stay local enough to return when it arrives.
Decided to return down to Silang with Shiera and give the post office details
on how to contact me when it arrives and departed for the bus. Picked up a bus
direct to Silang from nearby and headed off south….
That’s it for now folks….
