Sun 14th
Dec - I was
amazed later to find a Thai restaurant (at the Isis Bungalows), a short way
along the beach from the Bohol Divers resort where I am staying. One of my
favourite foods which I was pining for! As I said in my last posting, the day
was just getting better and better.
The beach here is excellent. Pure white sand and well
maintained. At night when the tide comes in, locals go out to swim as the
shallow water is free of urchins, starfish and andything else that you could
accidentally stand on. The temperature is still about 28 degrees, so nice and
comfortable. I headed along as far as it goes, which isn't that far, and hear
the sound of Operatic music coming from a hotel on the roack overlooking the
sea. The moon was an eerie sight shining through the tall flowing palm trees,
and fused with the music, gave it an air of sophistication. Through the palms,
many of the resorts have adorned their frontages with pretty white lights,
which enhances the romantic atmosphere. This is a place to share the experience
with. Sat on a lounger overlooking the sea and taking in the sights and
sounds...just magic.
Back towards the eateries which fill the beach right upto
the water. Stopped for a nice drink and chat to a local. The language here is
Visayas, which is very different to the Tagalog spoken up north. Luckily,
English predominates though. Met with Luka and Sasha again for a drink. Nice to
see them so happy.
Started chatting to some locals on the beach and we
adjourned to the Skiked Coconut bar to listen to some music. One of the guys in
the crowd made a request that they couldn't play, and he turned to me and
said...you're English...do you know Streets of Lonon? Of course I do, give me
the guitar. So if I went with a few songs to entertain the folks. Now that
wasn't expected and glad it happened. Made some friends that might meet up with
tomorrow night to go to a Videoke. Based on recent experiences up in SIlang,
that should be fun!
I had intended to return to the Boholdivers Resort to do
some dancing, but got back late and missed it, but got talking to folks around
the bar, so all was not lost, and the night went on til early hours.
Mon 15th
Dec – Late
rising today so took a brunch instead, and then wanted to get my photos posted
on the net up to date. A nice relaxing day and pleasant time chatting with a friend from last night.
Made arrangements to go diving tomorrow at Balicasag. More
on that tomorrow.
Met up with a group of locals in the evening
to got to a Videoke. But first wanted to check out the place I had herd the
opera coming from last night. Called 'Amarito', it is a superb place with prime
position overlooking the sea. The opera is only played at weekends, so tonight
was quiet, but talked with the nice staff and they couldn't have been more
welcoming. The prices are a bit steep as expected, but somewhere for that
special occasion.
off to the videoke next and the locals showed
me a supermarket where almost everything was half the price of the stalls on
the beachfront. They really are ripping off the tourists here, with high
prices. Happens in many places of course, but this is general across the
Philippines, where there are foreigners, the price escalates. Leave it to a
local to do your buying and you pay half the price. Finally made it to the
Videoke, and surprised that most of the music all of the locals there chose. It
actually seemed that when they chose one of their own songs..in 'Vasayan' they
seemed uncomfortable with it, and yet all of the foreign songs, they belted out
with confidence. I had a few good ones and was happy that my first song, the
old George Gershwin melody song 'Summer time' got a score of 100%. Way to
go...applause and bow to the audience....thank you ladies and gentlemen...
Tue 16th
Dec – Breakfast
at Trudies, the best breakfast in town apparently, and then off to the Blue
Planet Dive centre. Kitted up, indemnity forms signed and then off to
Balicasag....
Could have done three dives, but late on in the first dive
my dive computer went into error, and had a long discussion with the dive
master, who was concerned that I might have gone into Decompression, even
though the facts didn't substantiate that, but they didn't want to take any
risks and so wanted me to take a longer break. So whilst they were out on the
second dive I snorkelled instead. Glad I did as it was superb. Balicasag is
rated as one of the top dive sites in the Philippines, and it is justified. Was
at the 'Sanctuary' with superb life here. And all in shallow waters. Best
snorkelling I think I have ever done. Proved that I really must buy an
underwater camera. Was disappointed that I didn't have one now. Oh well...
Made the third dive at the 'Black Forest' and that was
superb too, some awesome fish..school of Jack fish, lionfish, scorpion fish,
triggers, moray eels of a few varieties, Napoleon fish...naming just a few.
Nice time chatting to the dive group back at base, who were
concerned about the problem with the dive computer. Will find out tomorrow what
they think went wrong.
Learnt that a past work colleague in the UK
has now departed the nest in a re-hash of the company. Way to go Mike...If you
see this message...Good luck for the future. Can't wait to hear the details.
Wed 17th
Dec – I have
to start planning what the next few days will hold and how I will get back to
Manila for Christmas. Flights will become more difficult to arrange and so have
to do something in advance. Means that unfortunately, I have to plan things
where I don’t really know what I want to do yet.
When the sun goes in, it
is time for a swim and a walk along the beach. Did I mention that this place is
heaven on earth...well if not...it is! Beautiful Filipino ladies everywhere,
with the most delicious of smiles, and so friendly....alert
alert...hormone overload!
Walking the beach is one of those no hassle experiences. The massage ladies in their
smartly pressed uniforms ask but don't pressurise. 300 Pesos for an hour, on
the beach with the waves lapping the sand...what could be better for
relaxation. Children playing in the shallow crystal clear waters. And the
Bangcas all now back from their dive trips fill the waters with splashes of
colour, and sunbathers with their bronzed tans against the white sand, make for
a colourful walk. Paddle through the aquamarine in search of shells and watching
tiny hermit crabs being industrious, with gentle
music playing across the breeze from the cafes...time for a beer and a fruit
pancake and day dream.....
Being as it is approaching christmas, time to get in touch with acquantances from around the world,
and share in the past year and plans for the future. For some a major year full
of changes, and for others, to coin my favourite Vietnamese phrase...'Same same
but different'. Am currently thinking about what 2009 will hold, and will share
those thoughts when they are approaching. I hope it to be different that 2008.
One thing I also love about this time of day here, is that
the mosquitos are not out yet. Last night I felt as if I was being eaten alive.
Annoying little pesky critters....the only creature on this planet that serve
no purpose whatsoever, and the only one that deserves a terminal fate. Sorry
for all buddhists out there!
One thing this place has in abundance is foreign guys with
Filipino partners, and many Filipino girls on the search for a foreign partner.
Does mean that they remember your name if they think you are on the list! You
know when they come towards you and address you by name after only a brief
acquantance, that they are after business of one form or another! Some of those
you see are obviously not happy with their partner, being a relationship based
on security, not love. Don't want that at all. It would be so easy to find
someone here, but would it be love, or just some fake surface that clothes an unhappy interior. Who knows,
but it is one those things to think about.
Thu 18th
Dec – Hired a
motorbike from someone at the resort for 500 Pesos for the day including
helmets. Nobody wears helmets in this place but it is safety. One major
objective was to extend my visa. On arrival in the Philippines you only get 21
days, but this can be extended to 59 days at one of the major immigration
offices or certain provincial offices. First stop was in Tagbilaran, and
luckily didn’t have to wait too long as second in the queue. Cost 2,530 pesos.
Had to supply photocopies of the visa and details pages, which can be done in
any one of the offices downstairs. My new visa lasts until 2nd
February 09. If I want to extend again after that date, then it will cost 4,300
Pesos for another 2 months. Definitely a money spinner for them.
That done, and not liking the hustle and bustle of the city,
it was time to do some sightseeing. Much to see on the Bohol Island, so headed
off along the coast going east. First stop at the ‘Blood Compact commemorative
shrine’ at Bool. This commemorates the location where Datu Sikatuna, a local
Chief, and Don Miguel Lopez de Legazpi, who represented the king of Spain, made
a ‘promise of friendship’ between the two countries on March 16th
1565. This is celebrated in the ‘Sandugo’ Festival every July (Why not March I
have no idea). Next on to the lovely old Baclayon church. The church is the
oldest in Bohol, but is not open to the public, so moved on towards Carmen,
which is in-land. At Lo-Boc, the roadside has many Tarsier viewing
possibilities. Now for anyone who does not know what a Tarsier is….it looks
like Yoda out of Starwars, and is the most gorgeous little creature on this
planet. I am high up in the Tarsier fanclub! It has eyes bigger than its brain,
and can swivel its head through 360 degrees. Now that's a clever little party
piece! No entrance fee as such, only a donation towards food.
Next on the route was the Python centre, where I got to
climb into the cage with an 8 metre female python. All in the aid of a nice
photograph, whilst risking being its next meal. Once every couple of weeks they
feed it a full sized pig for dinner, so a human isn't going to pose much of a
problem.
The main aim of the journey, was the 'Chocolate Hills', near
to Carmen. 1268 mounds rise out of the surrounding flat area, and during the
summer turn from green to brown, resembling chocolate so they thought. It isn't
the right time now, so they are green, but it is easy to see what they are
suggesting. All caused by a freak of nature.
Didn't want to be out after dark, so aimed back to Panglao,
and arrived just as darkness was falling. Tonight was the DTI Christmas Dinner
and disco/dance. Was told that it might be possible to gatecrash the dancing,
but no guarantees. Whilst I was having dinner they were doing the speeches,
which sounded really exciting, so much so that I think some of the staff were
digging themselves a tunnel out through the sand. It livened up later as the
staff got to do some entertaining with a Christmas theme. No dancing even
though the band was good, so gave up on that. Apparently, the only night there
is dancing here is on Saturday at the ‘oops bar’, although there is a live band
on Friday nights at the Bohol divers where I am staying, so should see that.
Guess what….I won’t be here on Saturday. Typical!
Fri 19th
Dec – As I am
moving on tomorrow morning, and I had been out all day yesterday, I felt like a
chilling day today. Breakfast at Oops bar.
Everywhere is lazy in the morning and most things take longer than usual, which
is slower than snail pace at the best of times. It rained extremely heavily
last night, and the thrashing of the rain against the metal roofs of the
accommodation was loud, so had a disturbed night’s sleep. A slow pace was
ideal.
Time to reflect on recent thoughts….
Alona beach is a bit of a mixture. Many couples here for a
romantic getaway. Most people here for the diving, and along side of that are
the ‘Leeches’ who are here to prey on those in need of company.
Whilst I was
walking along the beach late last night, I started talking to a small group of
Filipino girls, who seemed friendly enough. Didn’t take long before they
announced that they had arrived here from Tagbilaran without money for the
weekend, were hungry and had nowhere to sleep for the night, and did I want to sleep with them all if I bought them a meal! Didn’t provoke this,
they just offered it. I thought it was funny and decided to leave them to their
hunting for food and a bed! The thought
crossed my mind for a few seconds…but…no thanks…It is times like this that I go
into relationship mode, and start to question the whole business of how
relationships are formed and how they develop. It is so easy in places like
this for a guy to meet the girls of your dreams, but just how deep can that
relationship grow. I don’t really know, as most locals are from poor
backgrounds and are on the hunt for a ‘sugar daddy’ to save them from a future
of poverty and struggle. Sure, the girls are stunning and could keep your
hormones alive and kicking until they kill you with a passionate heart attack,
but just how much love would be involved. Love takes time to develop, and in a
conveyor-belt environment like this, where relationships seem to be formed at a
fast pace, nothing can be predicted as to its stability. You appear for a few
days and then go, to be replaced by another flow of similar people, after the
same thing. As someone once said to me….and I don’t want to believe this is
always true….nobody here wants a genuine relationship…there is ALWAYS a hidden
agenda and they want something from you. There are numerous older guys
strutting along the beach in the arms of a world-class Filipino model. The girl
makes all the right motions to make the guy feel special, but when it comes
down to it, they are worlds apart in terms of maturity and experience in life.
For the guy, all he probably cares about is that he will have sex on tap when
he wants it and will go to sleep with a smile on his face when he wants to. For
the girl, she gets a free ride as long as he doesn’t get bored with her. Free
food, accommodation, clothes probably, and maybe a long term life of
prosperity. I would like to see the results of a survey on this….how many
relationships formed in this way actually last. What is the average duration,
and for the girls, how many men do they sleep with before they end up with a
life partner. As I said, sometimes I go into relationship mode…food for
thought….
Friday means it's time for the city folk to come down to the
beach for the weekend in their droves. Yet another large group appeared from an
electricity company for their Christmas party. There is something about a group
of Filipino girls with their dark hair, and caramel skin that is an attractive combination, and many wear red
which complements their appearance perfectly. Down boy...
The band that was playing was excellent and
the continued afforts by the band leader was amusing...'common you party
people...it's your night...let's party', met with the usual vacant looks from
the audience, who remained transfixed in their seats. It took a lot of alcohol
for them to get moving, and when they did, the atmosphere changed and the band
relaxed.
Sat 20th
Dec - Taking
the boat to Dumaguete at 8am. Had been told to get there one hour beforehand to
get the ticket, so arranged a taxi nice and early. Got to the terminal and was
asked for 11.20 pesos for the 'Terminal Fee', so paid up and the taxi dropped
me about 20 metres after the barrier. He could have dropped me the ingoing side
and saved me the cost, but didn't. I thought that was it...got my ticket from
the OceanJet counter for 650 pesos,
and then thought I could go to the waiting area. Nope....need to pay another
Terminal Fee. The earlier one was for the taxi to enter the port...all 20
metres of it! This one was another 11.25 pesos. Tried again...nope...have to
get a seat assignment. Into another queue to get another piece of paper. Why
they don't assign seats when you get your ticket beats me? Then through baggage
scanning. Everything beeps, but they just wave through, so what's the point?
Probably trust us foreigners.
Considering I had got up before 6am to get
here, imagine how annoying when the boat was delayed until 9:45am. An
announcement had been made but you had to be in the right place to hear it.
Didn't find out until I got talking to a
guy living here who was involved in NGO work close to Tagbilaran.
Fortunately, the 'Bohol Federation of Disabled
Persons Inc' provided entertainment
while we waited. Three guys with guitars and the most beautiful
harmonies sang skin tingling renditions of traditional Christmas songs. This is
the second port I have been at where blind organisations have provided
entertainment. It warms your heart and is a wonderful part of Filipino culture.
Nice and easy 2 hour crossing to Damaguete
with some videos to watch for entertainment. Arrival in the port is simple
enough and you can see the town only a short distance away. Plenty of cyclos
and tricycles buzzing around, but you don’t need it as it is only a few minutes
walk. Tried a couple of places and couldn’t be bothered any further as only
here for two nights. Stopped at the Plaza
Maria Luisa Suites Inn in Legaspi street for 639 Pesos per night with free
wi-fi….and more importantly…warm shower! First in ages. Getting a bit fed up
with cold showers now.
A really funny experience on the walk from the
pier…bombarded with guys trying to sell me Viagra, Cialis and porn movies…plus
sunglasses or a watch if all else fails! They must think that guys coming here
have an erectile problem!
Exploring the city isn’t too difficult as it
is fairly compact. The main Rizal Boulevard following the sea front is nice and
filled with locals and tourists relaxing or strolling along. The beach is a
murky grey grit sand. Not that appealing I’m afraid. One fun feature is a
monument of flailing nuns in a boat commemorating the ‘Coming of the sisters of
St Pauls of Chartres to the Philippines’, who landed here in a boat in October
1904. Now I wonder…will they erect a monument in the future of the day I landed
in Dumaguete? Well, I thought it was fairly special!
Dinner in Sharkey’s
restaurant on the front, one of many good eateries here and then a walk to
explore the city further. It is a crazy place with tricycles whizzing
everywhere. It is on acid! The Dumaguete Cathedral is a beauty of a night, lit
up against the herringbone blue sky. The echoing sound of the priest conducting
mass was a lovely experience. The public park opposite was a grotto in the
making with many lights already in place. A central podium has been converted
into a massive nativity scene with straw on the floor for the kids to play in.
A nice atmosphere and lots of happy people around.
The Rizal boulevard was really pretty. The
trees had been laced with white star lights and many people out enjoying the
warm sea breeze. Went to the 'Why Not' discotheque in the evening. 70 Pesos
entry including one free drink. A small place and basically a pick-up joint.
Becomes very obvious within seconds. Anyway, while away a couple of hours with
a small dance floor. What was better was the central park oposite the
cathedral. On Saturday night's they have open air dancing. Tango and ballroom
plus some modern. Mainly older folk, but had some fun. It was lovely surrounded
by the Christmas lights.
Sun 21st
Dec - I am
lucky to have made some wonderful friends on my travels, and night time is the
time to chat on-line, so up late last night in deep conversation, with much
thought provoking discussions. So easy to communicate on-line nowadays, but doesn't
replace the face to face contact.
As soon as I stepped outside of the Inn this morning I had
beggars asking for money. Mainly mid aged women with children, but many sole
children also. The equation foreigner = money is an ever present reminder of the
poor economy of this country. It might seem that there is improved prosperity
in some places, but like the streets of for example London in the UK,there are
many poor people around trying to feed off those with more than they have.
Surprisingly, there is a high quota of expats residing here, supported by many
westernised eateries and facilities. I guess it is due to the beautiful
filipino ladies they meet, and never leave. Can understand fully. It is a busy
city. Incessant traffic that comes at you from every angle. Shame it doesn't
have a nice beach, as it would be near perfect for a small city.
Bumped into a guy I had met whilst I had the motorbike on
Bohol, so that was nice to catch up.
Pre-Christmas sales here are just like back in the UK…Chaos!
Everyone snapping up bargains in manic fashion. The difference here is that
clothes shops end up a mess as staff battle to re-stack clothes just get
chucked into a heap when people don’t want them. Prices are ridiculously cheap,
and if it wasn’t for the fact that I have to carry what I buy, I would have
bought loads, but resisted.
Fly off to Manila tomorrow morning and then onwards back to
Sheira’s place in Silang to spend Christmas and New year. Will be on-line over
Christmas from time to time depending on network connections….
Bye for now…..