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Our world Travel On 10th May 2007 I fled the UK on a journey around the world with a long list of places to go. Got as far as the Philippines where I met my wife. We got married on 11th May 2010 and are now sharing the experiences of travelling the world together

Bohol & Dumaguete

PHILIPPINES | Sunday, 21 December 2008 | Views [5966] | Comments [1]

Sun 14th Dec - I was amazed later to find a Thai restaurant (at the Isis Bungalows), a short way along the beach from the Bohol Divers resort where I am staying. One of my favourite foods which I was pining for! As I said in my last posting, the day was just getting better and better.

The beach here is excellent. Pure white sand and well maintained. At night when the tide comes in, locals go out to swim as the shallow water is free of urchins, starfish and andything else that you could accidentally stand on. The temperature is still about 28 degrees, so nice and comfortable. I headed along as far as it goes, which isn't that far, and hear the sound of Operatic music coming from a hotel on the roack overlooking the sea. The moon was an eerie sight shining through the tall flowing palm trees, and fused with the music, gave it an air of sophistication. Through the palms, many of the resorts have adorned their frontages with pretty white lights, which enhances the romantic atmosphere. This is a place to share the experience with. Sat on a lounger overlooking the sea and taking in the sights and sounds...just magic.

Back towards the eateries which fill the beach right upto the water. Stopped for a nice drink and chat to a local. The language here is Visayas, which is very different to the Tagalog spoken up north. Luckily, English predominates though. Met with Luka and Sasha again for a drink. Nice to see them so happy.

Started chatting to some locals on the beach and we adjourned to the Skiked Coconut bar to listen to some music. One of the guys in the crowd made a request that they couldn't play, and he turned to me and said...you're English...do you know Streets of Lonon? Of course I do, give me the guitar. So if I went with a few songs to entertain the folks. Now that wasn't expected and glad it happened. Made some friends that might meet up with tomorrow night to go to a Videoke. Based on recent experiences up in SIlang, that should be fun!

I had intended to return to the Boholdivers Resort to do some dancing, but got back late and missed it, but got talking to folks around the bar, so all was not lost, and the night went on til early hours.

 

Mon 15th Dec – Late rising today so took a brunch instead, and then wanted to get my photos posted on the net up to date. A nice relaxing day and pleasant time chatting with a friend from last night.

Made arrangements to go diving tomorrow at Balicasag. More on that tomorrow.

Met up with a group of locals in the evening to got to a Videoke. But first wanted to check out the place I had herd the opera coming from last night. Called 'Amarito', it is a superb place with prime position overlooking the sea. The opera is only played at weekends, so tonight was quiet, but talked with the nice staff and they couldn't have been more welcoming. The prices are a bit steep as expected, but somewhere for that special occasion.

off to the videoke next and the locals showed me a supermarket where almost everything was half the price of the stalls on the beachfront. They really are ripping off the tourists here, with high prices. Happens in many places of course, but this is general across the Philippines, where there are foreigners, the price escalates. Leave it to a local to do your buying and you pay half the price. Finally made it to the Videoke, and surprised that most of the music all of the locals there chose. It actually seemed that when they chose one of their own songs..in 'Vasayan' they seemed uncomfortable with it, and yet all of the foreign songs, they belted out with confidence. I had a few good ones and was happy that my first song, the old George Gershwin melody song 'Summer time' got a score of 100%. Way to go...applause and bow to the audience....thank you ladies and gentlemen...

 

Tue 16th Dec – Breakfast at Trudies, the best breakfast in town apparently, and then off to the Blue Planet Dive centre. Kitted up, indemnity forms signed and then off to Balicasag....

Could have done three dives, but late on in the first dive my dive computer went into error, and had a long discussion with the dive master, who was concerned that I might have gone into Decompression, even though the facts didn't substantiate that, but they didn't want to take any risks and so wanted me to take a longer break. So whilst they were out on the second dive I snorkelled instead. Glad I did as it was superb. Balicasag is rated as one of the top dive sites in the Philippines, and it is justified. Was at the 'Sanctuary' with superb life here. And all in shallow waters. Best snorkelling I think I have ever done. Proved that I really must buy an underwater camera. Was disappointed that I didn't have one now. Oh well...

Made the third dive at the 'Black Forest' and that was superb too, some awesome fish..school of Jack fish, lionfish, scorpion fish, triggers, moray eels of a few varieties, Napoleon fish...naming just a few.

Nice time chatting to the dive group back at base, who were concerned about the problem with the dive computer. Will find out tomorrow what they think went wrong.

Learnt that a past work colleague in the UK has now departed the nest in a re-hash of the company. Way to go Mike...If you see this message...Good luck for the future. Can't wait to hear the details.

 

Wed 17th Dec – I have to start planning what the next few days will hold and how I will get back to Manila for Christmas. Flights will become more difficult to arrange and so have to do something in advance. Means that unfortunately, I have to plan things where I don’t really know what I want to do yet.

When the sun goes in, it is time for a swim and a walk along the beach. Did I mention that this place is heaven on earth...well if not...it is! Beautiful Filipino ladies everywhere, with the most delicious of smiles, and so friendly....alert alert...hormone overload!

Walking the beach is one of those no hassle experiences. The massage ladies in their smartly pressed uniforms ask but don't pressurise. 300 Pesos for an hour, on the beach with the waves lapping the sand...what could be better for relaxation. Children playing in the shallow crystal clear waters. And the Bangcas all now back from their dive trips fill the waters with splashes of colour, and sunbathers with their bronzed tans against the white sand, make for a colourful walk. Paddle through the aquamarine in search of shells and watching tiny hermit crabs being industrious, with gentle music playing across the breeze from the cafes...time for a beer and a fruit pancake and day dream.....

Being as it is approaching christmas, time to get in touch with acquantances from around the world, and share in the past year and plans for the future. For some a major year full of changes, and for others, to coin my favourite Vietnamese phrase...'Same same but different'. Am currently thinking about what 2009 will hold, and will share those thoughts when they are approaching. I hope it to be different that 2008.

One thing I also love about this time of day here, is that the mosquitos are not out yet. Last night I felt as if I was being eaten alive. Annoying little pesky critters....the only creature on this planet that serve no purpose whatsoever, and the only one that deserves a terminal fate. Sorry for all buddhists out there!

One thing this place has in abundance is foreign guys with Filipino partners, and many Filipino girls on the search for a foreign partner. Does mean that they remember your name if they think you are on the list! You know when they come towards you and address you by name after only a brief acquantance, that they are after business of one form or another! Some of those you see are obviously not happy with their partner, being a relationship based on security, not love. Don't want that at all. It would be so easy to find someone here, but would it be love, or just some fake surface  that clothes an unhappy interior. Who knows, but it is one those things to think about.

 

Thu 18th Dec – Hired a motorbike from someone at the resort for 500 Pesos for the day including helmets. Nobody wears helmets in this place but it is safety. One major objective was to extend my visa. On arrival in the Philippines you only get 21 days, but this can be extended to 59 days at one of the major immigration offices or certain provincial offices. First stop was in Tagbilaran, and luckily didn’t have to wait too long as second in the queue. Cost 2,530 pesos. Had to supply photocopies of the visa and details pages, which can be done in any one of the offices downstairs. My new visa lasts until 2nd February 09. If I want to extend again after that date, then it will cost 4,300 Pesos for another 2 months. Definitely a money spinner for them.

That done, and not liking the hustle and bustle of the city, it was time to do some sightseeing. Much to see on the Bohol Island, so headed off along the coast going east. First stop at the ‘Blood Compact commemorative shrine’ at Bool. This commemorates the location where Datu Sikatuna, a local Chief, and Don Miguel Lopez de Legazpi, who represented the king of Spain, made a ‘promise of friendship’ between the two countries on March 16th 1565. This is celebrated in the ‘Sandugo’ Festival every July (Why not March I have no idea). Next on to the lovely old Baclayon church. The church is the oldest in Bohol, but is not open to the public, so moved on towards Carmen, which is in-land. At Lo-Boc, the roadside has many Tarsier viewing possibilities. Now for anyone who does not know what a Tarsier is….it looks like Yoda out of Starwars, and is the most gorgeous little creature on this planet. I am high up in the Tarsier fanclub! It has eyes bigger than its brain, and can swivel its head through 360 degrees. Now that's a clever little party piece! No entrance fee as such, only a donation towards food.

Next on the route was the Python centre, where I got to climb into the cage with an 8 metre female python. All in the aid of a nice photograph, whilst risking being its next meal. Once every couple of weeks they feed it a full sized pig for dinner, so a human isn't going to pose much of a problem.

The main aim of the journey, was the 'Chocolate Hills', near to Carmen. 1268 mounds rise out of the surrounding flat area, and during the summer turn from green to brown, resembling chocolate so they thought. It isn't the right time now, so they are green, but it is easy to see what they are suggesting. All caused by a freak of nature.

Didn't want to be out after dark, so aimed back to Panglao, and arrived just as darkness was falling. Tonight was the DTI Christmas Dinner and disco/dance. Was told that it might be possible to gatecrash the dancing, but no guarantees. Whilst I was having dinner they were doing the speeches, which sounded really exciting, so much so that I think some of the staff were digging themselves a tunnel out through the sand. It livened up later as the staff got to do some entertaining with a Christmas theme. No dancing even though the band was good, so gave up on that. Apparently, the only night there is dancing here is on Saturday at the ‘oops bar’, although there is a live band on Friday nights at the Bohol divers where I am staying, so should see that. Guess what….I won’t be here on Saturday. Typical!

 

Fri 19th Dec – As I am moving on tomorrow morning, and I had been out all day yesterday, I felt like a chilling day today. Breakfast at Oops bar. Everywhere is lazy in the morning and most things take longer than usual, which is slower than snail pace at the best of times. It rained extremely heavily last night, and the thrashing of the rain against the metal roofs of the accommodation was loud, so had a disturbed night’s sleep. A slow pace was ideal.

Time to reflect on recent thoughts….

Alona beach is a bit of a mixture. Many couples here for a romantic getaway. Most people here for the diving, and along side of that are the ‘Leeches’ who are here to prey on those in need of company.

Whilst I was walking along the beach late last night, I started talking to a small group of Filipino girls, who seemed friendly enough. Didn’t take long before they announced that they had arrived here from Tagbilaran without money for the weekend, were hungry and had nowhere to sleep for the night, and did I want to sleep with them all if I bought them a meal! Didn’t provoke this, they just offered it. I thought it was funny and decided to leave them to their hunting for food and a bed!  The thought crossed my mind for a few seconds…but…no thanks…It is times like this that I go into relationship mode, and start to question the whole business of how relationships are formed and how they develop. It is so easy in places like this for a guy to meet the girls of your dreams, but just how deep can that relationship grow. I don’t really know, as most locals are from poor backgrounds and are on the hunt for a ‘sugar daddy’ to save them from a future of poverty and struggle. Sure, the girls are stunning and could keep your hormones alive and kicking until they kill you with a passionate heart attack, but just how much love would be involved. Love takes time to develop, and in a conveyor-belt environment like this, where relationships seem to be formed at a fast pace, nothing can be predicted as to its stability. You appear for a few days and then go, to be replaced by another flow of similar people, after the same thing. As someone once said to me….and I don’t want to believe this is always true….nobody here wants a genuine relationship…there is ALWAYS a hidden agenda and they want something from you. There are numerous older guys strutting along the beach in the arms of a world-class Filipino model. The girl makes all the right motions to make the guy feel special, but when it comes down to it, they are worlds apart in terms of maturity and experience in life. For the guy, all he probably cares about is that he will have sex on tap when he wants it and will go to sleep with a smile on his face when he wants to. For the girl, she gets a free ride as long as he doesn’t get bored with her. Free food, accommodation, clothes probably, and maybe a long term life of prosperity. I would like to see the results of a survey on this….how many relationships formed in this way actually last. What is the average duration, and for the girls, how many men do they sleep with before they end up with a life partner. As I said, sometimes I go into relationship mode…food for thought….

Friday means it's time for the city folk to come down to the beach for the weekend in their droves. Yet another large group appeared from an electricity company for their Christmas party. There is something about a group of Filipino girls with their dark hair, and caramel skin that is an attractive combination, and many wear red which complements their appearance perfectly. Down boy...

The band that was playing was excellent and the continued afforts by the band leader was amusing...'common you party people...it's your night...let's party', met with the usual vacant looks from the audience, who remained transfixed in their seats. It took a lot of alcohol for them to get moving, and when they did, the atmosphere changed and the band relaxed.

 

Sat 20th Dec - Taking the boat to Dumaguete at 8am. Had been told to get there one hour beforehand to get the ticket, so arranged a taxi nice and early. Got to the terminal and was asked for 11.20 pesos for the 'Terminal Fee', so paid up and the taxi dropped me about 20 metres after the barrier. He could have dropped me the ingoing side and saved me the cost, but didn't. I thought that was it...got my ticket from the OceanJet counter for 650 pesos, and then thought I could go to the waiting area. Nope....need to pay another Terminal Fee. The earlier one was for the taxi to enter the port...all 20 metres of it! This one was another 11.25 pesos. Tried again...nope...have to get a seat assignment. Into another queue to get another piece of paper. Why they don't assign seats when you get your ticket beats me? Then through baggage scanning. Everything beeps, but they just wave through, so what's the point? Probably trust us foreigners.

Considering I had got up before 6am to get here, imagine how annoying when the boat was delayed until 9:45am. An announcement had been made but you had to be in the right place to hear it. Didn't  find out until I got talking to a guy living here who was involved in NGO work close to Tagbilaran.

Fortunately, the 'Bohol Federation of Disabled Persons Inc' provided entertainment  while we waited. Three guys with guitars and the most beautiful harmonies sang skin tingling renditions of traditional Christmas songs. This is the second port I have been at where blind organisations have provided entertainment. It warms your heart and is a wonderful part of Filipino culture.

Nice and easy 2 hour crossing to Damaguete with some videos to watch for entertainment. Arrival in the port is simple enough and you can see the town only a short distance away. Plenty of cyclos and tricycles buzzing around, but you don’t need it as it is only a few minutes walk. Tried a couple of places and couldn’t be bothered any further as only here for two nights. Stopped at the Plaza Maria Luisa Suites Inn in Legaspi street for 639 Pesos per night with free wi-fi….and more importantly…warm shower! First in ages. Getting a bit fed up with cold showers now.

A really funny experience on the walk from the pier…bombarded with guys trying to sell me Viagra, Cialis and porn movies…plus sunglasses or a watch if all else fails! They must think that guys coming here have an erectile problem!

Exploring the city isn’t too difficult as it is fairly compact. The main Rizal Boulevard following the sea front is nice and filled with locals and tourists relaxing or strolling along. The beach is a murky grey grit sand. Not that appealing I’m afraid. One fun feature is a monument of flailing nuns in a boat commemorating the ‘Coming of the sisters of St Pauls of Chartres to the Philippines’, who landed here in a boat in October 1904. Now I wonder…will they erect a monument in the future of the day I landed in Dumaguete? Well, I thought it was fairly special!

Dinner in Sharkey’s restaurant on the front, one of many good eateries here and then a walk to explore the city further. It is a crazy place with tricycles whizzing everywhere. It is on acid! The Dumaguete Cathedral is a beauty of a night, lit up against the herringbone blue sky. The echoing sound of the priest conducting mass was a lovely experience. The public park opposite was a grotto in the making with many lights already in place. A central podium has been converted into a massive nativity scene with straw on the floor for the kids to play in. A nice atmosphere and lots of happy people around.  

The Rizal boulevard was really pretty. The trees had been laced with white star lights and many people out enjoying the warm sea breeze. Went to the 'Why Not' discotheque in the evening. 70 Pesos entry including one free drink. A small place and basically a pick-up joint. Becomes very obvious within seconds. Anyway, while away a couple of hours with a small dance floor. What was better was the central park oposite the cathedral. On Saturday night's they have open air dancing. Tango and ballroom plus some modern. Mainly older folk, but had some fun. It was lovely surrounded by the Christmas lights.

 

Sun 21st Dec - I am lucky to have made some wonderful friends on my travels, and night time is the time to chat on-line, so up late last night in deep conversation, with much thought provoking discussions. So easy to communicate on-line nowadays, but doesn't replace the face to face contact.

As soon as I stepped outside of the Inn this morning I had beggars asking for money. Mainly mid aged women with children, but many sole children also. The equation foreigner = money is an ever present reminder of the poor economy of this country. It might seem that there is improved prosperity in some places, but like the streets of for example London in the UK,there are many poor people around trying to feed off those with more than they have. Surprisingly, there is a high quota of expats residing here, supported by many westernised eateries and facilities. I guess it is due to the beautiful filipino ladies they meet, and never leave. Can understand fully. It is a busy city. Incessant traffic that comes at you from every angle. Shame it doesn't have a nice beach, as it would be near perfect for a small city.

Bumped into a guy I had met whilst I had the motorbike on Bohol, so that was nice to catch up.

Pre-Christmas sales here are just like back in the UK…Chaos! Everyone snapping up bargains in manic fashion. The difference here is that clothes shops end up a mess as staff battle to re-stack clothes just get chucked into a heap when people don’t want them. Prices are ridiculously cheap, and if it wasn’t for the fact that I have to carry what I buy, I would have bought loads, but resisted.

Fly off to Manila tomorrow morning and then onwards back to Sheira’s place in Silang to spend Christmas and New year. Will be on-line over Christmas from time to time depending on network connections….

Bye for now…..

 

Comments

1

Happy Christmas and wonderful New Year!
Just loving reading all about your travels.
warmest wishes
Caroline

  Caroline Dec 24, 2008 7:44 PM

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