Sat 1st Nov - Last night was a bad night for sleep. A raucous crowd outside were
still making noise at 4am. Then another bunch who were moving out today were up at 8am or so. I'm flying to
Kuching in Borneo Departing from Johor
Bahru's
Sultan Ismail airport at Senai at 19:55pm. Which means going back
into Malaysia just to catch the flight. Will have to check-in at 17:55, so seems like plenty of time to amble from here to
there. Had a good morning catching up with posting photos onto the net. Seems
to take forever sometimes, and then checked out and headed for the Queen street
bus station just before noon. Bus CW2 goes about every 15 minutes and leaves
when near to full as possible. Costs only $2.40 to get to the Woodlands
checkpoint causeway, and took about 35 minutes as the traffic wasn't too bad.
Flew through the Singapore part of immigration control and rejoined the bus to
move to the Malaysian immigration part, a short ride along the causeway.
That's
when things slowed down dramatically...it was a sea of bodies in about ten
queues, and seemed to be running at a snail's pace. It was...it took me an hour
to get through. And it was hot and very sticky, so everyone was melting.
On
the other side I thought all I needed to do was pick up a bus to the
central/main bus terminal and then get an airport express shuttle from there.
Not as easy as that. First had to run the gauntlet of dozens of taxi touts shouting at me that there was no bus going to
the airport anymore. At first I didn't know that the main bus terminal was also
called 'Larkin', so missed completely some signs with that name on it. Then one
guy told me to go back and get bus 170 and change at Larkin, so got the idea. I
talked with some taxi drivers and felt that it was going to be worth the 40
ringgits they were asking, so decided on the easy option even though I wasn't
pushed for time. Johor Bahru's Senai airport is a fair way, maybe 32km outside
of town and took nearly 40 minutes to reach, so worth the fare.
It
is a messy place at the moment as they are expanding it, and the taxi driver
couldn't go right up to the departure entrance. It was also a mas sof asian
folk battling to squeeze into the small entrance doors of the intermediate
entrance hall. Police were overstretched trying to marshall the near anarchy..I
thought it was hilarious, as I just marched past them all and headed to the
main building with the police waving me on!
Not
sure what was going on but there was a desk buckling under the weight of a
mountain of passports...they must have either been or were going to a
convention?
With
many hours to kill, I could relax. Change my remaining Singapore dollars to
ringgits, and have a nice meal at the Lavendar bistro. In departures there was
a Muslim prayer session being held that had to cut short when a flight was
called. For my flight, there was a mad scramble when they called it. Seats
weren't allocated, so everyone for themselves to get a window seat. As it
turned out, the plane was less then half full. Air Asia flight AK5706 Left on time at 19:55 and arrived at
Kuching at 21:05. Immigration was so quick and easy, that I was outside getting
into the taxi at 9:25pm. 20 minutes from landing to leaving the airport was a
record.
No
buses running at this time of night, so only choice was to get a taxi. Pre-paid
taxi coupon system from booking desk by the arrivals exit costing 23 Ringgits.
Booked into the Singgahsana Lodge on Kuching waterfront's Temple road, opposite the swanky
Harbour view hotel. It is a nice and comfortable lodge and very clean. The
rooftop bar was just what I needed after a long day and got talking to a couple
of fellow travellers, who had both come from the north towards the south,
opposite to me, but full of useful information. Peckish, so off for a bite to eat.
The waterfront is convienient across the road and got a nice Malay meal of Nasi Lemak for 5 ringgits. Time to study
the local map and get acclimatised. Another day, another country....
Sun 2nd Nov - Last night was a disturbed one. Wasn't in bed until 2am as
had been catching up with friends. Went back to my dorm room to find someone
asleep in my bed. Was late, so climbed into another bed. At 4am was awoken by
someone wanting the bed I was in. Not moving, so they went off in a huff.
Apparently, they had a late arrival of a large group and it was a free for all.
Woke up this morning not as refreshed as I had hoped. It is a clean place but
noisy.
Simple
breakfast but at least the coffee was good... Full of caffeine and on with the
day. Across the road from the Singgahsana Lodge is the Siew San Teng Tue Pek Kong temple, the oldest temple in Sarawak.
Tue Pek Kong is the 'Host, or earth Deity' and is much revered by the chinese.
He has a great job spec. for anyone who wants to believe in him...protector of
their crops, suppressor of evil spirits, curer of sickness, and help them get
rich! If it works, then a guy worth believing in! Many people were burning
incense sticks, and so the air was laced with the kind of aroma I have got used
to in asian temples.
Kuching
waterfront was a relaxed atmosphere today. It is Sunday and so plenty of people
around in small groups and enjoying the warm air. Small covered boats zip
backwards and forwards across the Sarawak river. They have an oarsman stood on
the front with a pair of crossed oars and also a motor once into the main flow.
Will go on one to the other side tomorrow. Carrie along the front going west
and thought it was a well cared for place, until I reached what the map calls
the 'Wet Market'. A desolate carcass of what used to be a thriving fish market,
nut now just the broken remains and trash. The pier has been left to fall
apart. Not sure of the reason behind the demise, but will try to find out.
Moving
inland into the town now and the smart mosque, sat atop a small mound and with
an interesting cemetary attached. The graves were short stone stumps, many
wrapped with a sash. What caught my attention though, was a traditional Malay
style house at the bottom of the mound. Painted in vibrant pink and red colurs
with a bright metalled roof, it also doubled as a shop...slightly disappointed
by that, but they obviously were making the most of their location.
Stopped
off at the tourist information centre on the front and decided to go on the
minivan to Semenggoh Wildlife rehabilitation
centre at 2pm (25 ringgits). Left enough time to have lunch before going, so
had a traditional Nasi Lemak at the
lovelt Waterfront café. Coconut cooked rice with an egg on top plus spiced
chicken, peanuts and dried fish. An interesting combination, and one that you
have to be in the mood for. Food prices aren't horrendous here. Lunch cost 16
ringgits including a drink. Most meals seem to end up in the range upto RM20
max.
A
full minivan of mainly german couples, and took only 40 minutes max to get to
Semenggoh. The entrance fee of 10 ringgits was included in the price. The main
reason for coming here was to see the Orang-Utans, something Borneo is famous
for. They live in the jungle but come out for feeding on the morning and
afternoon on specially constructed platforms, with viewing areas for the
onlookers. Although it in a controlled environment, they were lovely to see.
Such gentle animals, each with a real character. There were two viewing areas,
with much of the area off limits to visitors. ! It was amusing and frustrating
when with the group, to receive instructions from the park ranger...no flash
photography...keep your voices down as these animals are timid and easily
frightened. What that meant to most of the idiots in the group was...run ahead
shouting and flash at everything! Had to break away from numpties like that!
After seeing the Orang-Utans I went off away
from the crowd in search of somewhere more private to explore. I managed to
find a small unmarked trail, where I found some cool bugs to photograph. An
amazingly nervous bright orange centipede that was impossible to photograph due
to its speed...a more sedate shiny vermillion beetle and monster ants!
There is also an orchid centre at Semenggoh, but
not given the time to see it. This is when it is better to come on your own.
Mon 3rd Nov – As I have decided to go to Bako National Park
tomorrow and stay overnight in the dormitory, this has to be booked in advance
through the Tourist centre on the water front. Costs RM15.75 a night. After
that decided to head across the water on one of the little boats for 50 Sen.
Picked the wrong landing to cross over to as I thought I could get along from
one to another by land. I probably could with a long walk in between. The
problem is that they are building a new civic centre and have closed off all
walkable land route. Ended up trying to battle my way through a building
site, which at least allowed me close up
of the construction work. It was blistering hot today, so it was a bit
uncomfortable. After an hour or so messing around and not really seeing
much…the Asanta building, which is the formal residence of Sarawak’s governor,
is off limits to tourists, so couldn’t get close enough to see it. I gave up
and headed back to the boat landing. This is where they have you by the short
and curclies…To get back to the other side, unless you’re in a group or other
people are waiting, costs a lot more than coming over. They wanted 5 ringgits!
Not a chance…a bit if a stitch up really. I bartered and eventually got one to
take me back for 2 ringgits. One lives and learns!
Not much happened the rest of the day as it was
too hot to venture out and the rains started late afternoon, so good
opportunity to take a break as tomorrow should be a bit more energetic.
Bye for now boys and girls....
