Wed 29th Oct -
Although I am in a mixed open
dorm, the night was very quiet, and air-conditioned so had a great sleep and
awoke refreshed. Breakfast was included and a nice choice with fresh fruit and
decent coffee to aliven the senses. Sleepy Sam's is on Bussorah street and has
that french café atmosphere to ease you into the day. The sun is up, the sky is
blue, not a cloud to spoil the view, so on with the day.....
Succumbed
to buying a lens attachment for my camera and then realised a problem. You pay
7% GST (tax) and can only claim it back if you fly out of the country. I'm
going from Malaysia, so it doesn't apply. I don't understand why you cannot
claim back tax at any point leaving the country. Seems a bit unfair.
Going
south down Beach road, passes the Parkview building. It looks like a Grammy
award and something out of a 1920s Hollywood set, with its figures facing out
from near roof level. Either that or wouldn't look out of place in Gotham city
in a batman movie. First stop was the infamous Raffles hotel. An institution since it opened in the 1880’s, and
famous for the 'Long Bar' where you have to have a 'Singapore Sling' cocktail.
I wasn't dressed appropriately to get in today as it is 'Smart Casual'....no
shorts or sandals. Will return another time, so not a problem. A grand Indian
gentleman in turban and white medaled uniform guards the entrance to the main
hotel, giving it that colonial era feel.
Onwards
to the Millennia walk area and Raffles Avenue where the skyline is dominated by
the 'Singapore Flyer' wheel. Would be a good thing to do near sunset for a
grand view of the city. A nice jungle garden sits underneath it. They were
setting up a theme for Halloween when I was there and were busy hanging
skeleton heads amongst the vegetation. Carried on south over Esplanade drive
passing the hedgehog building...that is, the Theatre on the bay & Concert
hall, which I will return to later to buy some tickets. Its design has been
referred to as the 'Big Durian'! Across the Singapore river harbour is the
rather odd Merlion statue. The word 'Singapore' or Singapura as it was
known, means 'Lion City' after it was founded by a Sumatran prince when he
spotted a white lion on a visit to what was then called Temasek, so the statue
is very appropriate. The view from here isn't too flattering at the moment as
the eastern landscape is a sea of cranes. I am sure it will be great when it is
finished. For now it is a blot on the horizon. Westwards is a different story,
with many interesting buildings worthy of further exploration. Another dominant
feature of the harbour is the Fullerton hotel with its backdrop of massive
skyscrapers. Under the Esplanade bridge with its chilled out Tapas bar and café
to the Esplanade park. I was lucky that there was a mass of Muslim ladies
passing through, resplendent in their beautifully colourful garments and
delicious smiles. Lovely photography subjects.
From
the North Boat Quay through to Clark Quay is a wonderful walkway, flanked by
dramatic buildings such as the spaceship-like Supreme court on the northern
side. The southern side is lined with restaurants that must be fantastic to
hang out in the evening...will return some time to see.
Stopped
for lunch at a Budget food court on Hill street opposite the nicely designed
Central Fire station. Back on to Coleman street to visit St Andrew's Cathedral.
Undergoing repainting at the moment, it was a nice cool relief from the heat of
the day (low 30's). Stands out from the surrounds with its gleaming white
peaks. Across from St Andrew's is the 'Padang'. Singapore's cricket club and
greens, with its neatly mowed green pitch. There is a rugby tournament on at
the weekend, so they were busy getting it ready.
Decided
to go and see an International Percussion concert tomorrow night at the Esplanade Concert Hall, so returned to
buy a ticket. Not cheap at 103SG$ (£40), but should be a great experience. Had
enough walking for now, so back to Bussorah street and time to absorb....and
buy a new compact camera...it lept off the shelf screaming buy me buy me! It
happens easily here....it really does!
Time
to get dressed up and head for Raffles for that Singapore Sling. Best not worry
too much about the cost or one would get indigestion from all of those peanuts
you have to eat to make the price worth while! At SG$26 it is a slooowwww
drink! To be honest, Raffles' Long Bar is like a western saloon. Raffia fans
sway slowly to and fro in colonial fashion on on the ceiling instead of rotary
fans.
The
normal approach is to find a table, wait for one of the nice waiters to ask
your order and then dig into the box of peanuts whilst you wait...oh, and
crunch your way to the table...the habit is to throw the peanut shells on the
floor....so it is a sea of shells everywhere. Not what I expected of such a high
priced venue, but it is what it is...an institution. And you have to fall in
line and thrown those shells! There is a sign by the door saying 'Littering
Encouraged'! Got talking to a couple from New Zealand who were originally from
the uk, but he was in the mining industry and moved around Asia every few
years. Quite a list of exotic places they had lived.
Of
course, I had a Singapore Sling and made it last longer than any cocktail I have
ever had! Apparently they sell over 2,500 of them every day...what a good
little earner! A glass of Heineken is SG$13 and a glass of house wine SG$15.
Off
to see the city lights....Singapore is a bit like Hong Kong in that its
buildings are alive at night. The Singapore river that bisects the north and
south is a colourful scene. The Esplanade theatre was a good diversion as there
was an amateur performance going on in the foyer that they put there heart and
soul into. Outside the water features were alight with blue globes reflecting
in the water and the theatre was a golden hedgehog.
The
'Bumboats' were busy ferrying tourists around the bay looking more interesting
at night. Had already had a big meal at lunchtime and had filled with peanuts
at Raffles, so wasn't too hungry yet. Stopped for a pint of Old Speckled Hen, one of my favourites
from the UK at the Victorian London Pub
by the Boat Quay. SG$14 for a pint! I
think you have to be rich here to stand any chance of getting drunk....either
that or a bad mathematician!
Got
talking to a guy from the UK in the I.T. Business out here doing sickness cover
for someone. I'd be wishing people to go sick if I got to come to places like
this on business expenses!
Learnt
from the barman that he only earnt SG$1000 a month and at least half of that
went on his single room apartment on the outskirts of the city. He was just
above poverty level after all of his costs were taken out, and it wasn't
getting any easier.
Took
a long route back to see the city at night, a fascinating place and then
stopped for a late night biryani meal at an Indian café for $5, a fraction of
what the same meal would have cost in the main city....I had made a note of
prices along the water front and the same thing would have been more like $20
upwards...admittedly, mine was served on paper and the drink as a can, but the
taste was excellent and that is all that matters. It is possible to survive
here on budget prices, although it isn't easy to find.
It
has been an interesting day….Tiring but rewarding. Singapore is a great
city...a smart city...beautiful and full of beautiful people....the
ladies....wow...plenty of stunners! But it all comes at a price, and you have
to earn it to be able to burn it here. Good job I am only here for a few days
as it would be easy to leave here with a broken bank account!
Thu 30th Oct – Had planned to not do much today as it was a busy day yesterday and
covered a lot of ground. Have tomorrow too, so worth taking the time to catch
up with friends on line.
After a great lunch in
a local Turkish restaurant, and feeling refreshed again. Contrary to wanting to
just chill today, I changed my mind and went for some sightseeing via the queen
street bus station to check up on arrangements for Saturday's return to Johor
Bahru for my flight. Then off to see the Sri
Veeramakaliamman temple in the 'Little India' area to the west of Bussorah
street. Unfortunately, it was closed from 1:30pm until 4pm, but managed to see
some of the outside. The streets were awash with Deepavali banners and bunches of hanging garlands. Anyway, it was
interesting being back in India again and walking the streets, the only
noticeable difference is this version is cleaner! People walking along with
sacks of rice on their shoulder, food stalls selling every form of exotic
vegetable and perfect fruit, and large groups of sari clad ladies, adding that
technicolour flavour. All with their red dye spot above their nose. I have been
lucky recently to be in this part of the world and for so many happy memories
to come flooding back from when I was in India, China, Japan, Turkey, Middle
east, Morocco...so many reminders all around, it's wonderful.
Dipped into the Sultan Masjid Mosque at the
top of Bussorah street. Unfortunately, foreigners aren't allowed into the main
prayer area or walk on any of the carpets, but you can stand by the entrance
and look in. I find this sort of limitation strange, as in the middle east, you
can go almost anywhere including the main prayer hall, and yet here you cannot.
Why?
I am reminded that Islam is an arabic word
that means peace, submission and obedience. The followers are very devout and
have to be to survive the period of Ramadan as one of the five pillars of
Islam...for one month...no food, drink or sex....no sex....not going to reach
the top of the popularity charts for that is it! For reference, the other four
pillars are: The declaration of faith, Prayers five times daily, Zakat...2.5%
of your savings each year and pilgrimage to Mecca once in your lifetime....but
only if you can afford it physically and mentally.
Sat at a café in the Kampong Glam area to do
some writing and have a glass of hot chai...within a half hour I must have seen
every nationality of the world pass by. Within a short walk, you can certainly
eat every nationality of food too. At 4pm the Muezzin call began and echoes of
the middle east drifted by...Singapore is that kind of place.
In the evening the Zakir Hussain 'Masters of Percussion' concert at the Esplanade hall
was amazing. The auditorium is something else, and part of the reason for
coming to this concert. Featuring Zakir himself on the Tabla (indian drums) and
accompanied by maestros on sitar, Sarangi (a form of stringed instrument played
with a bow), Doyra (a type of tambourine shaped instrument), Khartal (four
small pieces of wood, two in each hand), Ghatam (small drum) and Dholak (double
ended drum). A troupe of three guys from Manipur also performed and danced.
They did some incredible spinning moves whilst playing. What all of these
performers could do with their respective instruments was awesome. My son Tim in
the UK is at university studying music and specialising in percussion...would
have been great for him to be there to witness this.
Fri 31st Oct – Fancied checking out the MRT (Mass Rapid Transport) metro, so headed to
Little India. Only stayed on for 1 stop to Orchard road Dhobe Ghaut station.
Ticket machines take coins and notes and issue a 'Standard' pass, charging $1
deposit for it. Same type of metro as many modern cities...double door entry
system on the platforms, electronic displays and easy to understand. Helpers
are around if you're not sure what to do. At the destination you go through the
exit barrier, swipe your card at special refund machines, then insert it into a
slot which then refunds you your $1 coin.
Close to the
station is Istana park, an attractive area before you hit the shopping mecca of
Orchard Road. Not being into shopping I only last about half an hour before
developing shopperphobia and needed to escape. People watching in this city is
fascinating...favourite passtime no.1 amongst the girls is preening themselves
to perfection...I hve seen so many of them staring into mirrored surfaces as
they tweak themselves for this looks-concious world. Many have mirror surface
mobile phones in case they get caught out without a mirror for a few seconds
and go into panic mode that a hair might be out of place...or dread the thought
that their make-up might be smudged! The results are worth it for the admirer
though!
Spotted the
interesting Youth Centre building, with an eye catching graffiti design and a
display ouutside highlighting the fact that a child dies every 3 seconds! It is
actually a gruesome place on the outside. A mural along one of the walls is
painted with the 'Hellitubbies'..the children's favourite 'Tellytubbies'
characters but with scary blood dripping faces. Other morose characters
decorate the building...not sure what to make of it really?
Onwards down
Somerset road and then Clemenceau Avenue to
Fort Canning, which sits on top of a hill to
the east. It is also the location of one of the
city's reservoirs.
After
lunch a quick stop t the Mica building, which is an airy art gallery with a
superb bronze monument in the entrance commemorating the 'Big Bang' and fused
with DNA string winding its way through to show the growth of the universe.
Across
the road and watched the G-Max bungee for a while. It is actually a seat
holding three bodies and hurtles into the air tethered by elasticated ropes.
Had it been more reasonably priced than $40, I would have given it a go, but
too expensive for what it is. Worn out, so returned to the Guest House to
recover ahead of tonight's outing to the Night
Safari leaving at 6:30pm, (SG$39 all inclusive
of pick-up and return).
Being
Halloween, expected it to be a bit crazy and it didn't disappoint. The entrance
passes through the usual merchandise shops and eateries before getting to the
park. A tram circulates complete with narrators. Being that it was a special
night, they laid on an extra Halloween tram with an extra spooky voiced
narrator. There were some cool outfits. The great thing about the asians is
that they already have black hair and a wardrobe full of black clothes, so it
doesn't take them much to accesorise! Plenty of dripping blood, flashing horns
and black fishnets...i'm off on one again!
The
tram only stopped once on its journey, to alight for the leopard trail. Apart
from that, it seemed to go too fast to apreciate the wildlife. Here's a rare
sighting of the lesser spotted dingbat....two seconds later you fly past it
sitting there waiting for people to take its photo and you've gone....poor
thing will have to wait for the next tram to pass for a photoshoot!
There
is plenty to see, as all of the animals were active, something you don't see
during the day. Itbwas hilarious that there are signs all around saying...no
flash photography...and yet there were hoardes of tourists passing by with
flashing horns...painted faces and letting out blood curdling screams....and
the animals didn't flicker one bit! So on went the flash and they still didn't
flicker...I think these shy, nocturnal animals have seen too many strange
sights to be purturbed by the odd flash here and there. The narrator on our
tram sounded like the sort of voice from a children's playtime TV programme.
Chuckled at everything....here's a lion...the king of the jungle...hee
hee....and now for an elephant...hee hee! These once proud animals that belong
in the wild are now part of a nightly circus act laid on to wow the tourists,
but I fealt sorry for them. I have been lucky enough to see almost all of them
in the wild and want to let them all go.
There
was a 'Creatures of the night' show which I missed as the timing doesn't allow
you to do everything when the bus is waiting to whisk you back to town. Glad
really, as it would have enhanced the feeling of this being a circus, and
couldn't take any more.
There
is a pathway around some of the areas that was good when there weren't any
lunatics jumping from behind bushes. My summary is that it would probably be
better on a normal night. Tonight wasn't one of those, but everyone was having
a good time and the animals just happened to be there.
The
restaurant area is good, although typically more expensive than outside the
park. If I sound a bit disappointed with this place, then maybe I was...when
you see animals in the wild, no zoo will ever seem right afterwards. They call
it a safari...it is a zoo, but then again, not everyone is lucky enough to see
these beautiful animals in the wild, so they have their place in educating
children and allowing them to see the animals for real.
Tomorrow I
fly to Kuching in the Malaysian state of Sarawak in Borneo. Not fixed a time to
spend in Borneo, but have a few things I want to do whilst I am there. Maybe
three weeks to a month will cover...will see. My flight is from Johor Bahru in
Malaysia, the other side of the Johor Straits from Singapore. Will have to exit
Singapore and re-enter Malaysia just to get to the airport at Senai. A pain,
but not much choice as flights to Borneo are so much cheaper than flying from
Singapore.
That's it for
now folks. My next posting will be from Borneo.....
