Mon 18th Aug - Continuing on from my last post..
Hong Kong International Airport is a superb place, located next to the sea. The sun was shining and the view tremendous. The few hours I had seemed to vanish rapidly with plenty to do...almost bought a camera, something I would never do at an airport as the prices aren't usually that good. Luckily they didn't have the combination I wanted, so narrow escape. I had read that there was a departure tax of $120HK from here. Not sure when that stopped, but it certainly doesn't happen now.
SriLankan airways flight UL423 took off at 7pm, which was later than the expected time. This is one of those dramatic airports. Not only is it next to the sea on one side, but it is flanked by mountains on the other. Could see a cable running to the top, which I reckon would be a spectacular view. At the time I was flying, the view over Hong Kong was stunning. It really shows its full glory from on high. Victoria Harbour, with its mass of colour weaving around the bays is an awesome sight. I reckon it must be one of the world's most beautiful flight paths, especially at night
I have flown with SriLankan before and the staff as usual are impeccable and the service excellent. Arrived at Bangkok at 9:15 and clocks go back by 1 hour to GMT+7hrs.
Met up with Victoria at the airport after a long time searching, and then got a taxi to the hotel in the city. Staying at the Nanathai Mansion In Sukhumvit 4 area, so fairly central for most things.
Tue 19th Aug - Main thing today was to catch up with some shopping and then see how much time was left after that....
The Nana Mansion hotel provided a courtesy Saungthaew/tuk-tuk to the main Sukhumvit street, which wasn’t that far but was a nice touch, where we walked in the direction of the Ploenchit Skytrain station. Stopped for some street food and this is where my passion for Bangkok comes flooding back. It is an awesome city for many things, but the street food is some of the best in the world. Something for everyone's tastes, and loads of superb fruit. Soon afterwards the noise ramped up and it was obvious that something major was going on up ahead. A street protest was in full flow to repatriate the ex-minister and his wife from the uk, who were being held responsible for major tax fraud scandals. It was mad, but everyone was having a great time with music and dance. Got into the swing of it and joined in. Even bought a support bandana…. seemed like a good idea at the time! Got on camera alot and so suspect I might be on TV or in the major media around Thailand by now... English man in support of criminal repatriation!
After a bit of fun, headed for some retail therapy at the MBK centre, One of the most famous of stores in this city. Ended up replacing my camera, which I didn’t get time to do in Hong Kong. My previous camera has lasted well and taken over 15,000 photos since I started travelling 16 months ago. It had started to show signs of wear and tear lately, so was time for it to be retired to the camera shop in the sky.
So, with a new toy to play with and enough shopping for one day, headed for my favourite Lumpini park to do some snapping. Luckily the timing couldn’t have been better as at 6pm daily it erupts to the sound of music as free public aerobics takes place for anyone who wants to join in.
This happens elsewhere in the city too, which I think is a great public service. It is also a beautiful park to look at both architecture of some nice planting schemes. Sat and watched the people doing their exercises for a while. Every shape and size from the stick thin to the more developed people (delicately put). All having a great time and following the music at their own pace.
Back to the hotel and get ready for a night on the town. I like this place and not afraid to admit it. Thailand has some of the most stunning women on the planet (along with Hong Kong). Along with the beautiful ladies are the omnipresent lady-boys, which seem to predominate the Sukhumvit and Nana Plaza area. It is amazing that many of the lady-boys are indistinguishable from the girls. You really have to look very close. Victoria was game to see what it was all about and so we headed off into the nana plaza area to check out a few bars and clubs. Now for anyone who hasn’t been here…a brief introduction….The Nana Entertainment plaza is a concentrated area of bars aimed at satisfying almost every need known to mankind! Girls, boys, lady-boys and any combination in between…some on their way between in other words. Predominantly a guys area, but not uncommon to see girls/wives with their partners. Depending on your views, these places can be seen in a number of ways. Most of the girls are after one things of course…to win over the wallet of a man in need, and end up either in bed or to simply act as an escort for the evening. They line up along the streets, or follow prospective customers or hang around the bars waiting to be picked up, or dance in the bars. Either way, they are there to appeal to the dreams and basic instincts of many sorts of people. Hormones at the ready!
After a bit of light entertainment and now walking with a limp!... off to find some dancing. Not that many dance venues around surprisingly, but did find one eventually, so boogied the night away till 2am. Fantastic energy burst and had a great time. Coming back to Bangkok is one of those sensory overload places with enough dimensions for everyone. Thoroughly shattered after an action-packed and steaming day….off to bed and within one microsecond fast asleep…zzzzzzzzzz
Wed 20th Aug – So much to see…I was here in January this year, but has been around 30 years since Victoria had been here. In that time it is like coming to a completely different place. For me it feels like yesterday. I have a passion about this city that made me fall in love with it when I was here last. The main site to visit for the first time visitor I think, has to be the Grand palace or Wat Phra Kaew. To get there from where we are there are many options but wanted to show two of the main means of getting around here. First, off to the BTS sky train station at Nana, heading to Central pier on the Chao Phraya river. By the way….the BTS (Bangkok Sky Train) is paid in zones. Relative to where you get on you look at the map and decide where you want to go and pay the requisite amount at the ticket vending machine, maximum cost 40 Baht. Next the ferry…. The boats operate going either north or south and White/no flag stop at every station, whilst orange flag boats stop at limited stops. There are also Blue and yellow flag boats. The ferry is cheap at 17 Baht. The Chao Phraya river is fast moving and carries with it swathes of dislodged water hyacinth and buzzes with many forms of watercraft. From tiny little things that bob along and struggle against the flow of water, to massive cargo carrying beasts. Long tail boats with their fancy decoration and food-mixer style propshafts whizz along through the swell caused by the passing larger ferries.
Straight outside of the no.9 pier landing is an open market which is a great introduction to many interesting aspects of eating on the street of Bangkok…a diverse range of food, fruit, drink…many you will never have heard of or even recognise, but a great place to stop for a while before getting out into the heat of the day. Barely over five minutes from the ferry to the palace. Last admission is 3:30pm and you have to cover up legs and shoulders. Free trousers or sarong and tops are provided if you aren’t suitably dressed, although you need to pay a deposit for each item.
The Grand Palace is simply stunning and one of the most awesome sights you would ever see in Thailand. Every building is an amazing monument to detail, ostentatious design and ornamentation and attention to the essence to what is Thai culture. Jaw dropping without question. The main temple houses the ‘emerald Buddha’ statue, housed in an ornamental glass casket raised gold podium. So much going on in every direction that it is beyond description.
Made our way back to the hotel in the reverse way of how we got here and fancied a night out somewhere. In Ja nuary I had seen two of the main shows on offer here, the Thai Culture show and the Calypso show at the Asia hotel. What I didn’t get to see was the ‘Mambo’ show, so that seemed a logical choice for what to do this evening. Left it late to get there by public transport (it is in the Emporium area of Sukhumvit between Soi 22 & 24), so got a taxi.
A bit of a flambouyant show with one major comment…totally lacked oomph! It had the potential to sparkle and have you wanting to boogie along with it, but almost all of the singing was badly mimed and most of the dancers were inept with no dance ability at all. Note….I am normally not this critical and enjoy most things, but this one was definitely tacky and could have done much better. The main thing I think was that the performers were more interested in looking pretty for the photographs rather than giving themselves to performing. After the show you could have your picture taken with the cast members for a price (the other two shows I mentioned were free). I can only say that it is the cheapest of the shows on offer and shows it. Go and see Calypso if you want a show and be entertained!
Thu 21st Aug – Today is my daughter Katie's 12th Birthday back in the UK. Miss her like crazy and would love to give her a cuddle as only dads know how. This is the isolating aspect of travel when you are remote from the people you care about. Later in the day I managed to talk to her and felt much better, as well as my son. Makes the difference!
I had been having problems with my bank card not allowing me to get any money out of the ATMs recently, so had to get in touch with the UK and sort it out. This had been the case since Macau and I had talked with the bank then about it. Sort of finally got it sorted today and managed to get some money. There is an issue to still resolve, but at least the main problem is resolved.
After a day of catching up with stuff, out for a boogie with some beers and dancing til after 2am. A superb hoot and danced off a few pounds. Yet another action packed day…yeah!
Fri 22nd Aug – Had decided between Victoria and I to go to Chiang Mai today and pick up the first train north that we could. Check-out and taxi to Hua Lompong station and managed to get a couple of tickets on the 6pm train 2nd class A/C 880 Baht upper, 790 Baht lower. Four hours to kill, so left our luggage in the ‘Left Baggage’ area for 70 Baht an item, then headed west towards China town on foot. A hot one today, so not ideal for walking around, but have to pass the time. There was a really nice temple we stumbled on which we have no idea of its name, but further on we came to the Bangkok correction prison museum adjacent to the Suan Romaninart park. A bit of a ghoulish place Really. We were the only ones there and as got some personal treatment. The first building shows the methods of punishment and execution. Thailand still has the death sentence but in December 2003 they changed from death by being shot to death by lethal injection. Prior to that date they tied the prisoner up face forward to a cross and blind-folded. A screen was then placed a foot away from the persons back and a mark on the screen told the man with the gun where to aim. He couldn’t see the prisoner of course. After the museum building we were taken to see the prison, which was more of a display of the methods they used to torture the prisoners. Hang them by their chin on the end of a spike…squash their head between two sticks….the most garish one though was to lock the person inside a bamboo ball with spikes inside it and let an elephant use it as a football!
Made me cringe at the thought. Some of the cages were so small that they couldn’t get the prisoner out after torture and had to cut off their heels with a knife to get them out. Sick is one word that comes to mind, but it does explain some of the aspects of the psyche at that time.
Further on westwards and another landmark of the Giant swing, which is outside of the beautiful Wat Suthat temple. A short stop for a pancake. This reminded me of one of the characteristics of diet here. Condensed milk is used a lot in drinks as it is a sort of combination of sugar and milk and they put it on loads of stuff before you have a chance to blink. Further on and heading back towards Hua Lompong station we passed the Banbatt Monk’s Alms bowl manufacturer. Bowls start off as a welded steel frame to which they add panels in an almost stitched fashion with copper strips. These are then beaten by hand on an anvil to meld them into the standard curved bowl shape which is then finished off and lacquered.
Back at the station and minding my own business having a coffee and feeling knackered, and a guy started massaging my shoulders. I knew it would cost but it felt good so let him carry on. He kept kneading right where it hurt as with most massages and made me wince a bit. Just what I needed. 40 Baht for a fast recovery…not bad eh, and Just what I needed after a day in the heat! There are showers at the station for 10 baht if you need to freshen up before boarding.
Train departed on time at 6pm and friendly attendants who come and make up your bedding for you when you’re ready. Dinner can be ordered as can breakfast in advance if you want. We had eaten at the food court at the station so didn’t need to bother.
Having travelled on trains extensively in many countries, including my past visit to Thailand, I reckon that the track to Chiang Mai is one of the bumpiest around and felt almost every track joint through the night. Better to get the upper berth rather than the lower one.
Sat 23rd Aug - Got into Chiang Mai on time at 7am. Fortunately, having been here before I knew the ropes and headed straight outside to the shared Saungthaew. 40 Baht for the trip to Tha Pae gate, my preferred area for accommodation. No hurry so breakfast first at Dalet’s house. This is where I stayed in January for a few days or so albeit at a more budget level. This time I wanted something nicer and with a pool to relax in. One thing you notice when you arrive in Chiang Mai is the difference in price relative to Bangkok. Rooms, food, entertainment, are all much cheaper here. One of the standard fill you up smoothies are only 20 to 30 Baht here, as compared to maybe double that in Bangkok. Beer at under 60 Baht compared to 90 Baht or more. Within 10 minutes of finishing breakfast had sorted out a nice room at the Thai House hotel for 550 Baht with a swimming pool and a nice choice of food.
When I was here in January there was much going on. Firstly, the whole country was in mourning for the death of king Bumiphol’s sister, and so there was commemorative displays around the main gate area, which are still present. Also, it was the flower festival and I was lucky enough to be here for the superb street parade before I headed off north to Tha Ton.
Into town in the evening for a drink, passing through the red light district, which is a much tamer environment than in Bangkok. There is an area centered on a thai boxing ring which had some bouts going on when we arrived. Could have paid to go in but didn’t bother as it was nearing the end, so checked out more of the area and ended up playing pool in a bar with some of the girls. Great fun and bar games too.
On the way back to the hotel stopped off at another bar to listen to a 3-pice rock band which gave it their all. Mainly ex-pats in there but ok atmosphere.
Sun 24th Aug – Had been told yesterday about a ceremony that was supposed to take place at the 158 year old temple in the old town. Went there but it didn’t happen. Subsequently learnt that today was a Buddhist holiday and so most normal ceremonies had been interrupted. Picked up a Saungthaew to Wat Suan Dok temple to Check out meditation courses. There are plenty of these courses around town, but this one has either a 2 or 3 day introductory option, where you get an introduction to Buddhism and then learn about the practice of chanting, meditqtion and also the alms rituals. Plus plenty of opportunities to talk to Buddhists about anything you like. For anyone who knows me, you will know that I am an atheist. I believe that everyone has the freedom to follow whatever belief system they choose, or none at all if that is a person’s wish. Understanding the major belief systems though, is an important part of understanding a country and its attitudes. When I was in Thailand in January, I fell for it in a big way and was taken by the relaxed and gracious manner of its people, and the sheer willingness to help and give time to assist others. After a nice relaxing walk around the temple grounds, it is a comfortable stroll back into town towards the western ‘Suan Dok’ gate. Close-by to his gate is the beautiful Wat Phra sing temple where I was lucky enough in January to be present for the Buddhist novice ceremony (31st January). This time it was much quieter being low season. This temple also marks the starting point of the Sunday street market in Ratchedamnoen road. The range of traditional and modern articles available is wonderful and a must see on a visit here. Side stalls sell a bewildering choice of street snacks.. Sweet corn for 10Bt, mango/sticky rice/coconut milk/10Bt.
Time to indulge….It started to rain and heard some music playing, so into the Garden café for dinner and shelter. A girl duo from London who were on holiday for a couple of weeks and felt like providing some support entertainment for the main blues band that came on at 8pm. Four guys (bass guitar, acoustic, lead and harmonica) set a nice chilled pace and good atmosphere drowned out occasionally by the torrential rain lashing against the tarpauloins and an occasional outburst of lightening, which seemed to go on for hours. People had to don rain macs and umbrellas, much to the delight of the street-sellers.
I recently had a pain in my shoulder that had come back and so tried out a massage at the market for 60Bt, concentrating on left shoulder and rubbing Tiger Balm in deep. Thai massage is quite a painful process sometimes and I was in excruciating pain throughout. The guy who did me was being guided by the head masseur and so at times I had the two of them pummeling and squeezing and twisting me. Was almost in tears but persevered with it. They gave me the remainder of the tiger balm tub in case I needed it. I left them with a smile on their faces and a grimace on mine!
The market extends right through to Tha Pae gate and can easily absorb a whole afternoon and evening if you want to stock up on new stuff.
Mon 25th Aug – Had a painful night last night and woke this morning with my shoulder feeling like lead and agonizing to move it. Probably the massage did more damage than good and so will have to rest up today. I am concerned that this is the second time I have had this problem in almost the same place, although last time it went right down through my elbow, which it isn’t doing this time. Will have to keep an eye on it for a while and take it easy. On top of this I have also picked up a cold. Occasional sore throat and sneezing, so in a bit of a mess really. Perhaps something is telling me to stop for a while!
One of the things I have decided on is to come and spend some more time in Chaing Mai at a future date. Possibly 3 months or longer, don’t know yet. Checked out a local real estate agent and also around the streets to see what rental options there are. It seems very easy to find somewhere here across all the spectrum of standards. Tiny limited facility rooms at 4,000 Baht a month, through to flashy four star places with pools for 25,000 Baht a month all fully furnished. Compared to non-asian prices, this area that is extremely cheap. Will definitely be doing more research into this as I have been travelling for a long time now and need to take a long break and belong somewhere for a while. So far, Chiang Mai is top of the list although others are on the list too.....
That's it for this post....bye for now.....
