This is the feeling I had as we careened through the streets of Cairo. The driving style there is similar to Indo, but they don´t even bother putting lines on the highways since they know noone follows them (which i thought was quite efficient). There also are almost no motorcycles, so everyone is on a much more even playing field. They also don´t bother to put stoplights at intersections, and by default, there are no crosswalks. Everything is a temptationa of fate. Anyways, the driving isn´t what the title of the article refers to; more just my overall experience.Terrifying and exhilarating in alternating waves. My flight didn´t get in at 8 like i thought it would, but 11:30. Come to find out, i was the only person who thought this was late since Egypt is the most truly nocturnal society i´ve ever experienced. However, as I was ushered into a ´taxi´which was an unmarked civillian car, and swept into the grimy bowells of downtown and lifted in the rickitiest elevator i´ve ever seen (posted capacity 3 people), all my í´m going to die´bells were going off. Then the elevator doors opened to... my big fat greek wedding. Trellaces of fake flowers graced the whole entrance and lobby and the sweetest man, the owner, Ellie, sat with me for my welcome drink in alittle room which was papered wall to ceiling with gushing thank you letters in a myriad of languages. I wasn´t going to die. In fact, my stay in Cairo stands out as one of my most well-cared-for 4 days of my life. I had no less than 2 escorts every time i left the building and they were more than accomodating of all my wishes and needs.
My first outing was the National Gallery, which was like an Indiana Jones dream. Hundreds of thousands of statues, obilesques, coffins, carved nuggets and megalithic stones (those are all the official terms) graffittied with hyroglyphics. Some were labelled, but many were shoved in nooks and crannies. Makes a body wonder about magic, spells, and all those scooby doo episodes you´ve seen. Overall, wonderful. Later that night I went to the National Gallery of Modern Art which was equally stuffed with floors of inspiration and awe. A great first day.
I also had the great pleasure of dining with Hani and Tershia, friends of friends, and now my new friends. They, in turn, connected me with a local artist who is possibly my entire reason for coming to Egypt! He´s being graced with a growing network of international artists, many of whom are in places I´ll be going; and, Lord willing, I too will be part of that net. Pretty sure I´ll be returning sooner than later. Unfortunately I was scheduled to leave for Alexandria before I could meet any of his cohorts, but that will come another time. So will stories of Alex.
And, yes, I went to the pyramids, felt the hot breath of the Desert whispering notions of her ancient tales, and stood in awe at the geometric beasts, perched on the top of a spitting smelly beast (camel). My, we´ll call him inexperienced, young guide told me Napolean tried to bomb the pyramids and the spinx (hence the missing nose and pile of granite). They were stronger than he though, he said. Hm.
Due to the line of vultures of the free hostel internet, that´s all for now folks.
