at home in the world

Gallery: Berlin

hpsauce — Sat, 4 Aug 2007 02:15:00 GMT

23 July - 23 Aug

Red Man, Green Man

hpsauce — Sun, 29 Jul 2007 07:32:00 GMT

Can I continue to be any more fortunate? My dear friend Stephanie Johnson has opened her wonderful flat to me, which happens to be in an extremely cool part of town, in walking distance to more than i could ever take advatnage of. The first week here I had my own room even. Now their 3rd roommate from the States has arrived and I'm on a pallet in Steph's room. Still not so bad.

Berlin - well, everyone i met at hostels always got this special voice when talking about it. [casual] 'Yeah, europe's great. My trip's been great' [lean in, deepened tone for added seriousness, the 'look' from under arched eyebrows]'But Berlin!...' The fans loved it. And I think its Ok too. If my heart hadn't been stollen by the Czech Republic, and Prague weren't the most stunningly beautiful city ever, I may be a little more impressed by Berlin. Nonetheless, it is wonderful here. Especially if you like chic shopping and graffiti.

Highlights: being with Steph - it's always and adventure. When she's not being a smart-ass (which is always very funny) she's just a great friend. Aw. Also, big news: I found a pay-per-day printmaking studio here! And its really cheap and really well-equiped. This fish is back in water there. I actually 'go to work' in the mornings now - when's the last time that happened? Day 1 I rocked, day 2 i hit a wall, and then last night i sliced my thumb, so I took today (day 3) off. But I'm back on the horse tomorrow.

There are a number of subtle remnants of the East-West division of Berlin. Steph says she can tell by the way people dress where their from. I think she's just using that as an excuse to check people out. But other people can tell by the little red and green men on the pedestrian traffic lights. Easterners are squaty and wear a hats while Westerners are slender and boring. But now the West has decided they like squatty guys too, so they're all kind of mixed in. This too is symbolic.

Brno? and, Normal?

hpsauce — Mon, 23 Jul 2007 06:41:00 GMT

One thing I have been thoroughly schooled on during my time in the Czech Republic is the myriad differences between Bohemia and Moravia (basically east and west CR) - not the least of which is the primary beverage produced: Bohemia = Beer (home of Pilsner and Budwieser), while Moravia = wine (and we thought it was just 100 year prayer meetings). It was my great pleasure to be personally educated by a wonderful community of young people in the Moravian town of Brno (pronounce 'burno').

According to my MO, I followed a little bunny trail and it lead me to Rudolf, my new favorite artist friend. Wild-haired, 100% pure bred Moravian art man!

The weekend began (after a short interlude at a underground pub, of course, which he partially owns, of course) with Night of Magic in the park - with 30 of his best friends (i know what you people were thinking). After approximately 1 second of akwardness after being introduced to raised eyebrows as 'from Texas', I was enveloped into the picnic blanket community of revolutionaries and progressive thinkers, recycling femenists and world travellers. Could I be more at home? I was blessed with a wonderful translator, Jana, who was my little window into this fabulous group. The party really started when the guitars were busted out and round after rousing round of czech folk songs, local band favorites, and a little Manu Chau, ensued, complete with EVERYONE (including yours truly) singing along, dancing, clapping, leaping through trees and across grassy slopes. I'll never be the same.

And that was just the beginning.

They inundated me with questions. Things like, 'Do you consider yourself more Texan or American?' And 'Have you seen 'What's Eating Gilbert Grape?'. Among them were plenty of questions cirlcling the theme of how 'typical' am I in Texas? I asked if I came across as unfriendly there, and Richard (with a gotee past his belly button) exclaimed emphatically, raised eyebrows and raised voice, 'No! To us you're Totally NORMAL!' This struck me as extrodinary as it struck him. When has that ever happened?

Czech sounds

hpsauce — Thu, 12 Jul 2007 01:23:00 GMT

Angie, Josie and I, plus Joanne from San Fransisco who we picked up in Prague, took a little road trip to Southern Bohemia to a little town called Cesky Krumlov - a must-see according to so many fellow hostellers. (And it was). The whole thing just oozed 'cute'. It came complete with a castle and tower overlooking the city (see pics) and a river winding through the middle. All the pinacle of loveliness.

The highlight, however, happened with an accordian, in a local bar, and in impassioned young lady singing and playing her heart out up on the little wooden stage. (Her boots, backpack and accordian case were stacked on the side - the 'wandering accordianess'). The Spanish flamenco woman has a run for her money in this little lady! I also happened to be sitting next to an Austrian artist as well.

A second musical highlight was yesterday here in Prague - the 'New Bohemian Jazz Festival' is under way in the Old Town Square, and the music is hot. It's also my first chance to be immersed shoulder to shoulder with Real Czech Youth - an endangered species here in Prague in July. I've added a number of museums and galleries to my list as well - my eyeballs overflow with wonderful art. My hands are jealous.

Prague-more stories

hpsauce — Thu, 12 Jul 2007 01:05:00 GMT

There is a legend here about a creature called Golem. On the north side of the old town is a large Jewish quarter (where our dear Franz Kafka was born and died). Golem is essentially a Jewish Frankenstein - made by a Rabbi, not a scientist. Some say his body is hidden somewhere still in the area, the basement of this synagog, the attic of another, the Rabbi's former home -who knows, really.

This and many other interesting and gruesome things Josie and I learned on our free walking tour of Prague last week. (There are actually the remains of a theif's hand hanging in one of the churches, right up there on the wall. They say Mary, from whom he was trying to sneak some jewelry, grabbed his hand and then froze again leaving no option but to chop it off. I guess it was the priest's idea, though, to hang it on the wall for all to see, for generations.)

Maybe I should mention again how beautiful Prague is. Better when it's not raining, which it has been doing a lot of these last few days. On my first day on the town I read a quote by Kafka saying something about this 'Old Crone, Lady Prague' having a hold on him and not letting go. I think I could say the same at the moment. After a number of attempts to leave, or make plans to leave, I am still here, with no set plan on how I'm going to leave.

Gallery: Czech Republic

hpsauce — Sat, 7 Jul 2007 23:04:00 GMT

26 June - 10 July

Prague - the stories are true

hpsauce — Sun, 1 Jul 2007 20:14:00 GMT

Despite first impressions from my ghetto-stylin' hostel, what everyone says about Prague is true: it is beautiful! I've had 5 days here on my own. (I'm still always a little surprised by how much I enjoy being on my own.) Taking it slow since Angie and Josie will be joining me today - don't want to see too many sights and hear all the speils twice. One little surprise treat is a park and trail-covered hill behind my hostel, crowned with an amazing monument to a one-eyed warrior. Not usually moved much by monuments, this man I wanted to follow whole-heartedly into battle.

There are a host of museums and galleries here as well - Mucha, Kafka, and many others. I spent 5 hours at the National Gallery of 19,20, and 21st century art - made it through 2 of the 5 floors! Quite amazing. Food for my soul. I can't say that I'm not more than a little antsy to get my hands dirty in a studio again!!

Gnaoua, baby!

hpsauce — Sat, 30 Jun 2007 06:03:00 GMT

In the amazing coastal town of Essouaira (it takes a good few weeks to learn how to pronounce it right, which can be a problem when trying to find a bus that goes there), we discovered, among many other things, the deep love that Moroccans have for music. Not to mention dancing! Gnaoua music, as far as i know, was brought to Morocco by sub-saharan African slaves. It consists of a lot of drums, clangy finger cymbol things, a 3-stringed guitar-like instument, singers (one leader), and dancers. And it takes great effort to keep a body still as it pulses through the streets. Prior to going, we (and I am referring to Angie, Josie, Jim, and myself) heard that around 400,000 people would decend on the city for this annual 'hippie-fest'. I naturally expected to see (and smell) a lot of blonde dreads. To my pleasant surprise, the festival seemed to be patronized mainly by Moroccans, who, as i mentioned, apparently emmensely enjoyed it! Dancing everywhere. I guess these are like folk songs as well, so more often than not groups would burst into jubilant song joining whatever music they would hear, be it a concert or just from one of the many CD sellers; sometimes they would just spontaneously burst into song on the street. I tell you, I loved it.

We stayed at a Riad, which is usually multi-leveled with rooms surrounding a central open plaza (w/ fountain in the middle) and a lovely rooftop deck. Very nice; looking out at the ocean. The city wall are all whitewashed with brilliantly colored vendors everywhere. A great experience.

Gallery: Morocco

hpsauce — Sat, 23 Jun 2007 23:58:00 GMT

17 June - 26 June

Marrakesh and Rabat

hpsauce — Wed, 20 Jun 2007 23:09:00 GMT

This is just to let you know I'm in Morocco now. I flew in to Marrakech where a friend of Jonathan & Leslie's picked me up. Bruce, as it turns out, is from Austin and we have many friends in common - had to come to Morocco though to finally cross paths. Also, a last minute treat, Jim Kendall, a good friend from boarding school in Malaysia flew out to join me for my Morocco portion of the trip. We are in Rabat now, and on Friday will be heading to a huge music festival in a tiny beach town, meeting up with Josie and Angie. Should be fun.

More to come...

Smalltown France

hpsauce — Wed, 20 Jun 2007 22:52:00 GMT

Continuing on the quest to visit friends, after Spain I went to a tiny coastal town outside of Nantes, France to visit some of my dear friends, Jonathan and Leslie Wyrtzen and their two girls, Leila and Nora. Our daily schedule was thus: breakfast, walk to the beach to play (sometimes stopping at the little open air market on the way), walk back for lunch, nap, walk back to the beach for a couple of hours, and then back home for dinner and wine. There was a healthy smattering of visits to cafes and crepeiries as well. If you think this may have gotten old after 6 days, you are mistaken. I was not ready to leave!

Regarding the French, I have to testify that I had nothing but wonderful experiences with them. Everyone I met was more than ready to use what little English they had to assist me in whatever myriads of ways i need assistance (which are many). And whatever pride they have in being the most civilized culture, I have to say, from what I say, I think they are entitled.

My last day there we took a family bike ride to part of the coast a little further away. Inexpressibly beautiful; much like Maine. All the pictures up right now are from this picnic.

I flew out of Nantes in the evening, so Leslie came with me into Nantes where we went to a wonderful museum and saw slightly bigger city civilized life.

Unexpected sweetness

hpsauce — Wed, 20 Jun 2007 22:37:00 GMT

(Again, my apologies for not keeping up with my stories. Things won't necessarily be in order, but at least here's a little somethings.)

So, after Egypt, on June 1, I headed to meet my good friend Angie in Granada. Had no idea what I was in for. In the bus on the way from Madrid to Granada I wondered, 'What am i doing here?' As if in direct answer to my musing, I lifted my gaze out the window to a burning orange glow on the night horizon and witnessed the most breath-taking moonrise I have seen in my life. I now know that it is called 'duende' (or something like that) - this spell that this land casts on you. That was merely the first of my many breath-taking experiences.

Granada is overlooked by an incredible fortress on the central hill, built by the Moors, call La Alhambra. My hostel was on the hill directly across from this. The many times I got lost wandering the winding cobblestone streets, I could never get too frustrated because it was just so dang beautiful. everywhere. Arabic flavor was everywhere - from beautiful Islamic geometric tile work to Middle Eastern food stalls, it was an amazing Europe meets Arab mix.

Angie had picked up a new friend in Madrid too: Franco, the Argentine. He was a fun addition to the mix. We explored, wandered, ate tapas and drank wine as well as spent countless hours sitting on our butts drinking in the views. There was also, believe it or not, some incredible graffitti work there as well. An artist known as El Nino apparently has free reign there. All inspiring and wonderful.

Two highlights: blood-boiling Flamenco (which I have a very lame picture of), and a lovely visit to a little beach in Salabreno. My first time in the Med. One of many places I've been on my journey where one is perfectly content to just sit, all day. (and not take any pictures).

Gallery: Le Peliguen, France

hpsauce — Wed, 20 Jun 2007 22:17:00 GMT

10 june - 17 june

Gallery: Spain

hpsauce — Sat, 9 Jun 2007 23:06:00 GMT

Granada - 1june - 9 june

Gallery: Egypt

hpsauce — Sat, 9 Jun 2007 22:48:00 GMT

19 May - 26 May

my first rollercoaster

hpsauce — Fri, 8 Jun 2007 01:12:00 GMT

This is the feeling I had as we careened through the streets of Cairo. The driving style there is similar to Indo, but they don´t even bother putting lines on the highways since they know noone follows them (which i thought was quite efficient). There also are almost no motorcycles, so everyone is on a much more even playing field. They also don´t bother to put stoplights at intersections, and by default, there are no crosswalks. Everything is a temptationa of fate. Anyways, the driving isn´t what the title of the article refers to; more just my overall experience.Terrifying and exhilarating in alternating waves. My flight didn´t get in at 8 like i thought it would, but 11:30. Come to find out, i was the only person who thought this was late since Egypt is the most truly nocturnal society i´ve ever experienced. However, as I was ushered into a ´taxi´which was an unmarked civillian car, and swept into the grimy bowells of downtown and lifted in the rickitiest elevator i´ve ever seen (posted capacity 3 people), all my í´m going to die´bells were going off. Then the elevator doors opened to... my big fat greek wedding. Trellaces of fake flowers graced the whole entrance and lobby and the sweetest man, the owner, Ellie, sat with me for my welcome drink in alittle room which was papered wall to ceiling with gushing thank you letters in a myriad of languages. I wasn´t going to die. In fact, my stay in Cairo stands out as one of my most well-cared-for 4 days of my life. I had no less than 2 escorts every time i left the building and they were more than accomodating of all my wishes and needs.

My first outing was the National Gallery, which was like an Indiana Jones dream. Hundreds of thousands of statues, obilesques, coffins, carved nuggets and megalithic stones (those are all the official terms) graffittied with hyroglyphics. Some were labelled, but many were shoved in nooks and crannies. Makes a body wonder about magic, spells, and all those scooby doo episodes you´ve seen. Overall, wonderful. Later that night I went to the National Gallery of Modern Art which was equally stuffed with floors of inspiration and awe. A great first day.

I also had the great pleasure of dining with Hani and Tershia, friends of friends, and now my new friends. They, in turn, connected me with a local artist who is possibly my entire reason for coming to Egypt! He´s being graced with a growing network of international artists, many of whom are in places I´ll be going; and, Lord willing, I too will be part of that net. Pretty sure I´ll be returning sooner than later. Unfortunately I was scheduled to leave for Alexandria before I could meet any of his cohorts, but that will come another time. So will stories of Alex.

And, yes, I went to the pyramids, felt the hot breath of the Desert whispering notions of her ancient tales, and stood in awe at the geometric beasts, perched on the top of a spitting smelly beast (camel). My, we´ll call him inexperienced, young guide told me Napolean tried to bomb the pyramids and the spinx (hence the missing nose and pile of granite). They were stronger than he though, he said. Hm.

Due to the line of vultures of the free hostel internet, that´s all for now folks.

quick update & revised schedule

hpsauce — Wed, 6 Jun 2007 19:37:00 GMT

well, as expected, i´ve had a change of plans. After Singapore I went to Egypt, where I had a wonderful time, but decided I was a little tired of ploughing through foreign countried alone, so I checked out tickets to Spain where my good friend Angie is. Lo´and behold, it was actually the cheapest place i could go from egypt. So, here I am in magical Granada. Somewhere I never thought I would ever go. It used to be some Moorish headquarters as well, for around 750 years, so it has a heavy arabic flavor as well. The éast meets west´ theme continues. On the 9th I will go up to France where some more dear friends, Jonathan and Leslie, are. On the 17th to Morocco, and then to Prague on the 26th. That´s all I know for now. I¨ll tell some more interesting stories soon...

wow

hpsauce — Tue, 22 May 2007 16:27:00 GMT

Yesterday I found the most beautiful park I've been in. I've always considered Singapore to be clean, uptight (you know, chewing gum in banned), and a bit sterile. My experience this time around however has changed my mind!

During my quite extensive walks around the area I have been met at ever turn with beautiful, colorful old buildings, great foodcourts and markets of many ethincities tucked into every nook, wonderful art, yes cleanliness, and the prettiest park i've ever seen!

Its on a hill that has a fort at the top, and paths winding all around, huge trees, crazy ferns. I took some pictures, but of course they don't really do it justice. Just imagine.

Variations on 'Well Fed'

hpsauce — Tue, 22 May 2007 15:54:00 GMT

I hatched the concept for this article on Sunday night, after my first full day in Singapore.

I had just returned from the National Gallery (conveniently in walking distance). I was more than 'well fed' in the consuming incredible art all day sense. Finally my luck was changing, and I landed here while a show of engravings from the Louver in Paris is on exhibit. Phenomenal engravings of national treasures like the Mona Lisa, and much more. There were also works by various Asian artist whith quite a bit of focus along the lines of 'where east meets west'. Right up my alley. Yesterday I spent a couple of hours at another show: 100 prints by Picasso! Incredible! I like his prints more than most of his other work. Totally inspiring. I haven't been the 'well fed' in this way on the entire trip. But it made me think of the other places I've been.

In Thailand I was well fed in the literal sense. Staying with incredible hosts, I don't think I could've eaten more or better if I had tried!!

Indonesia- well, I guess I would say I was relationally well-fed, in a variety of ways. I haven't mentioned this before on the journal (one of the millions of experiences that have slipped through the cracks), but 2 days before I left, in Malang, I followed up on a contact that Pak Devy, the printmaker in Bandung, gave me. I had the distinct pleasure of spending a couple of days with Syerief, a Madurese man who is one of 2 curators in East Java. A young man with a vision for seeing the artistic potential of his region tapped and manifested. He is very well-read, kindred in idealism, involved in (or maybe the head of) a very active, interesting group of artists. Some American friends who live in Malang joined me as well. I think we all agree on our feeling regarding meeting Syerief that can best be said as 'blessed'. Also, dipping into the community of our friends from Austin living there in Indonesia was very rich for me! Not to mention getting some very quality and wonderful time with my sister. I felt like Indonesia was overall a feast for all my senses and soul.

Before I left, there were many words of encouragement from friends regarding my trip. One was the sense that I would be well fed by the hand of God along the whole way. I would never have to worry. And its true. Very thankful.

Highlights of Thailand

hpsauce — Tue, 22 May 2007 15:45:00 GMT

1. Reconnecting with boarding school friends Sonya & Jason (married, expecting baby #1 very soon) in Bangkok, and Mike Knox in Chiang Mai. Bangkok was nice and chill. Surprisingly, everything we needed was in walking distance - all variety of food, flowers, shopping, massage.

2. Art: Also walking distance from Sonya's in Bangkok was a very cool gallery that had a great openning while i was there. In Chiang Mai, the University museum had a show of the grad student's senior thesis projects. Really incredible and stimulating. Overall, considering how long I was there, I didn't get a whole lot out of Thailand art-wise.

3. Afore mentioned trekking.

4. Massage

5. FOOD! I'm hoping one of these days a county I go won't have incredible food. My clothes are on the verge of not fitting anymore.