We decided we needed to do a domestic trip to balance out our overseas trips. In 2012 we did a long 8 weeks trek through Asia and then later in the year went to Japan for a couple of weeks.
It was time to be patriotic and support the locals. Wendy had been to Darwin 10 years ago with her nursing associates and had raved about it. We decided to give it a go and explore the upper NT in a motorhome as we had done in New Zealand’s south island a couple of years ago.
Virgin came up with some very reasonable air fares and Britz were the most competitive with a 2 berth motor home.
We caught a train to Sydney (as we always do) at 5.03am to catch the plane at 9.40am. Nothing exceptional happened in getting to Darwin except we shared a plane with David Hasselhof who was going there for a fishing trip with Mark Holden (or so the local radio station said).
Arrived on time, went to the Britz depot in Winnellie and picked up the van. It turned out to be a Maui van with TV, Microwave and most other conveniences you need. Especially the air-conditioning (which took a bit of working out but we got used to it). It was a VW Crafter TDI. Very comfortable and easy to drive. Went straight to a Supermarket to get provisions and then set out south-east to find a camp for the night.
We stayed at Hidden Valley Van Park. Quite good, all mod cons, pool that was hot and the powered site cost $40 for the night.
Next day motored toward Kakadu, stopping along the way to visit the
Window on the Wetlands visitors centre and to have lunch at the Bark Hut Road House (Pub.)
We didn’t actually have lunch there; we ate our home made wraps in the van and visited the Pub. It is a very impressive outback Pub. Plenty of Australiana and well set out. Certainly worth a visit. We then went to the edge of Kadadu National Park and found the Aurora Kakadu Resort where we bought our Kakadu permits ($15 each) and found a powered site to park for the night. We need the powered site due to the heat at night.
The next day we motored on to the Bowali Visitors information centre and doubles as a cultrural centre. Well worth visiting. Our next thing to visit was the Nourlangie Aboriginal Rock Art site…..absolutely fascinating.
An insight into the culture of the Aboriginal.
Motored a little further towards Jabiru and pulled into the township to have a look around. There isn’t much at Jabiru township so we did the obligatory circle of the town and, stocked up with a few more supplies and decided to motor on down to Cooinda. This is the tourist village that is the gateway to the Yellow Water Wetlands. We booked in for the night and also booked in for the 4.30pm evening Yellow Water Wetlands Tour. This was very interesting tour, we seen all manner of wildlife including the obligatory crocodiles.
We had two sightings where they were on the banks of the billabong and two sightings where they were sitting in the water waiting for a tourist to put their leg in. The birdlife was spectacular.
We saw a white breasted Sea Eagle which a minutes before caught a fish and was perched high in a tree and having it for dinner. It was a marvellous site.
We left Cooinda on a Friday morning to head toward Katherine. The roads were boring. There were a lot of side roads closed due to recent rains. We stopped at the Mary River road house and had a coffe. This is the first place outside the Kakadu National Park…very forgettable.
Stopped at Pine Creek for lunch. Had a look around the town and went through the Rail Museum. It was a poor excuse for a museum, but when put in context that the rail hadn’t been through that part of town since the 1970’s and very little had been given the Museum Society to work with, it was a great example of Rail history. The old couple that looked after it were a credit to the Museum and the town. We bought some Paw Paw and Ginger Jam and some Mango and Ginger Jam just to support the ladies auxiliary in the town.
From Pine Creek we went on to Katherine. Had a quick look around, bought a few more provisions and found the Knotts Crossing Leisure Park. It is one of the best parks we have been to. Very well appointed. The next day (Saturday) we had a good look at Katherine.
Bought a trilogy of small aboriginal arts from a painter called Kenny Wark. As it turned out he was there at the gallery and we met him and talked with him about his art.
Went to the Katherine Museum which has some great remnant of the Bush Telegraph and the history of the area. It shows the contribution Clyde Fenton who pioneered ‘the flying doctor’ in the region. There is also good information on the events during WW11 when Katherine was bombed.
The following day we drove to Mataranka to look at the ‘springs’ and the Pub. We didn't take photo's of the springs, mainly because camaras can't swim.
The springs at Mataranka Homestead are quite good in that they are slow moving and very clear although they have an odour. We went for a short swim just to say we had done it.
The Pub at Mataranka Homestead is well laid out and caters to the rich ($38 for a steak and $70 for a carton of beer). The van park is basic but sufficient. The old homestead as per ‘We of the never never’ fame was there to see. We also went and had a swim at the ‘Bitter Springs’. Jumped in and swan downstream about 100m. This stream flowed slowly – into the Roper River.
Next day drove back to Katherine to stay another night at Knotts Crossing Caravan park. It was at this time we found out that Colin and Monica Byrnes would not be making Darwin this week so we would miss them for the ANZAC ceremony. We rang Monica and she sounded quite ill. Bronchial type infection we think.
So we left Katherine for the second time and headed north toward Daly River. Whilst not a long trip it was a boring trip. Country side was much the same all the way but the roads got worse the further we went. At one stage, we turned down a one lane sealed road. Before too long. the road train that came around the bend at what seemed to be twice the sign posted speed on the crest of the hill scared the ‘bejesus’ out of us both. This reinforced the need for vigilance on these outback roads and that regardless of who is at fault, you will always lose against a 4 dog road train. We did make it to Daly River (Nauiyu) township and went looking for the Mango Tree Caravan Park. Apparently it is across the river, downstream and only accessible by dirt road. We decided against it, did a U turn and head back to the highway and head further north. There wasn’t much to see and do at Daly River.
We needed some diesel so we called into Adelaide River. The BP Road house has a Van park at the back. It was well shaded, had a great pool and the people were very friendly.
After booking in, we found out there was a band playing at the Adelaide River Hotel which adjoined the Service Station and the Van Park the next night in preparation for the ANZAC day service at the famous Adelaide River War Cemetery. So we booked in for two nights. It was a good move. The next day we thought we would visit the Rail exhibit. When we got there, they were expecting a special ‘GHAN TRAIN’ from Darwin.
It was put on specially to coincide with the ANZAC ceremonies down the Darwin to Alice Springs line. There were 200 people make the train ride. They got on in Darwin, travelled to Adelaide River where they got off and were ferried to the Adelaide River War Cemetery. They then reboarded the train for Katherine where they stayed the night and went to the Katherine Dawn Service. The locals all came out to see them. The local prison farm provided them with a special welcome.
The band and ‘occasion’ at the Adelaide River Pub went well and everybody made it for the dawn service. There were probably over 2000 people there. The service was very long (75min) mainly because of the wreaths being laid. Apparently every local organisation and business feels the need to lay a wreath. All the social clubs, the emergency services, the councillors, the pubs, the local earthmover, the LJ Hooker man, the local general store owner, the stock and station agent and the old bloke down the road laid a wreath.
Then there was the Administrator for the NT who made a speech. A lady called Sally Somethingorother. A year 9 student could have delivered it just as well. Her attempt at public speaking failed. She read her speech as though someone else wrote it. The other thing about the speech was its main man. The NT claimed a bloke who was born in Victoria and lived in the NT for a couple of years as their own. He was certainly a valiant man who epitomised the Anzac and deserved his medals, but the NT people claimed him as their one and only VC winner. Not sure what the Victorian’s think of it given he never went back there and is buried in Albury. On the positive side, it was certainly a well run service and the Squadron Leader made a great speech and the Air Force Chaplain delivered a very good address and sang with a beautiful voice. Nigel Scullion did a good job as M.C.
