Goodman's Travels

Photos: Cruise Asia 2015

fartandbelch — Mon, 13 Jul 2015 09:55:00 GMT

Cruise 2015

fartandbelch — Sun, 12 Jul 2015 18:46:00 GMT

I was chastised by Wendy one day.

As is normal, I make a throw away comment and she picks up on it.

I was scanning the Sunday papers one day in November 2014 and seen a ‘relocation’ type cruise from Singapore to Sydney that took about 8 days. It was relatively cheap where they fly you from Sydney to Singapore and you cruise home via Darwin and northern Qld. It sounded interesting because we haven’t been on a cruise before and this sounded like a good ‘starter’ type cruise to take but I didn’t say anything.

A few weeks later I mentioned it to one of our friends in the Café that it was a good cheap way to test the waters of whether you like cruising or not. Wendy was in the kitchen, overheard and yelled out “Did you book it?”

That was the impetus for us to embark on this type of holiday. So after many hours on the internet, many hours working out how we could take time off from our everyday schedules of work and café we decided on a 14 night cruise from Singapore to Hong Kong. Unfortunately it called into several places we had been before. Ie Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh, Da Nang and Hanoi however it was also scheduled to stop at Koh Samui, Sihanookville and Nha Trang all of which we hadn’t been before.

We booked through Cruise Republic on the internet. They were helpful at all stages of the process and I’d use them again. We got very good cheap air tickets with Scoot (an offshoot of Singapore Airlines). The seats were good and comfortable and the leg room was better than most other airlines.

So we left Sydney by Scoot on Sunday 29^th March 2015, arriving Singapore at about 7.00pm. We were booked into the Leng Lay?? Hotel in the Little India part of town. It was good, clean and cheap.

Boarded the Ms Volendam at about 12.30pm on Monday 30^th March. It was a trouble free operation and we went straight into Stateroom 2522. It was an inner stateroom which was small yet comfortable. Settled in nicely and set about looking around the vessel. Ms Volendam is a medium sized passenger liner in the Holland America group. It sleeps 1425 fare paying passengers. The normal amenities of a cruise liner were all there. The Casino, piano lounges, numerous small bars, two swimming pools, sun decks, library and internet area, four large dining rooms and crows nest.

All was going well. Food very good, service excellent and general activities on board were good for people our age and older. We boarded on Monday and on the Thursday, after a day of activities we were walking back to our stateroom when we see near the end of the corridor, two mattresses which were sodden. It wasn’t long before we were told it was our bed. Apparently there had been a massive leak from above our room which landed primarily on our bed and bedside tables. Hence we had to move to another stateroom on the 1^st deck. This was an outer stateroom and had a window (which was in very bad need of a clean). The only real damage we sustained was to the Samsung Tablet that was sitting on the bedside table. It got drenched. The steward immediately dried it and plunged it into a bucket of rice. We found out the only benefit of a window is it tells you its morning. We found waking in a dark cabin without a digital clock very difficult. Looking at a watch in darkness doesn’t work.

On the first Good Friday night we were booked into The Pinnacle Restaurant. We had high expectations of the meal that night. It was Good Friday and we paid an extra $49US each for the privilege. What a DISAPPOINTMENT. Whilst the food we had was acceptable and of a good standard, the menu was something we thought Holland America should be ashamed of. There was only one fish dish for an entrée and only one fish dish as a main course on the menu. All other selections were meat. We questioned the staff on this anomaly and were told ‘Le Cirque’ menu on every Holland America ship was the same. That didn’t placate us at all. Soon the head Chef came to our table to apologise and state it was a “le Cirque’ Menu and as such they had to serve it that way. The only fish on the main course menu was ‘black cod’ which we’d never had before but it was very good and presented well. The next day, one of the supervisors heard of our complaint and offered us a free meal in The Pinnacles Restaurant for another night to make up for our disappointment. We took up that offer. The food was very good. Far better than the ‘Le Cirque’ menu which we paid $98US for. The normal Pinnacles tariff is $29US each and very good value. So good we did it again on the Saturday night before we left ship. The food was good but left us wanting. It wasn’t as good as we first thought.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/aphs.worldnomads.com/fartandbelch/54792/Volandamdeck.jpg

The ships first port of call was Koh Samui. Nothing special about Koh Samui. Typical Thai tourist resort although we did have a very memorable ‘pineapple chicken’ dish at a little corner restaurant.

The second port of call was Laem Chabang which services Bangkok. It is about 2 ½ drive from the port into the city. We had been to Bangkok twice before so gave it a miss and decided to take a trip to Pattaya. We teamed up with a Kiwi couple to share the taxi fare – ripped us off for about $50US but we did have a good meal in a little backstreet café. Probably should have stayed on board for a leisurely day.

The third port of call was Sihanookville. This was a typical Cambodian town that lacks most things. It was reminiscent of Phnom Penh and Siam Reap in the squalor and poverty. The Cambodian people are very hospitable and we were pleased we called there.

We then called into Phu My which is the Port for Ho Chi Minh. We had been to Saigon before and the 2 hour car ride seemed a waste of time so we decided to walk around the port.

Our next port of call was Nha Trang. This proved to be a worthwhile day trip off the boat. Nha Trang is your typical Vietnamese port city. It was clean and worth a few hours walk around and we also hired a car forabout 3 hours so we could get a better appreciation. Nha Trang would be worth another visit if the occasion presented itself.

It was about this time we started to realise cruising was for special people. That is, special people who actually like doing nothing. Whilst the MS Volandam was well equipped and treated us well, sitting on a boat waiting for the next meal or activity is mind numbing. There is a well-equipped Gym on board. You needed to circumnavigate the boat 3 ½ times to clock up a mile. Also mind numbing. However, we did give our best efforts to make ourselves occupied and stimulated. One of the highlights of the day was waiting for the daily spreadsheet of ‘news’ from Australia that was printed every morning. (things are crook when you eagerly await a spreadsheet with yesterdays news) and then there was the daily crossword……NY Times……

Our next port of call was Ha Long Bay………..the day was miserable and we had previously seen what we believe to be something similar to Ha Long Bay when in Thailand. Phang Gna Bay is just as picturesque. So we decided to go ashore and get a taxi ride around Ha Long Bay. It was an interesting place but nothing special. We thought Nha Trang bay was far more beautiful.

22000 Vietdong to the dollar does tricks to the mind.

From Ha Long Bay we then cruise a couple of days to Hong Kong.

We docked in Hong Kong and decide to take a taxi to our accommodation at The Ibis North Point.

This proved to be very good central accommodation and was very comfortable for the price. It was central to all our needs and proved good for a ‘local feel’ of the atmosphere in Hong Kong. From there we did the normal tourist points, went on a ferry to Kowloon (waste of time) up the cable car to ‘The Peak’ and then the city centre for some ‘hong kong’ shopping. That night we went to Happy Valley Racecourse where we were amazed at the festivities on offer for the night. We bet on some winners, we bet on some losers and we had a great evening just absorbing the atmosphere of the Races.

In all, Hong Kong is a place we could call back on and enjoy the culture….its basically just another large Asian city but then….one worth revisiting

Out flight home turned out to be a logistical problem. We were booked out early on the morning flight from Hong Kong to Sydney. We had to be at the airport very early. We got up at 4.00am. Apparently in the most sophisticated Asian city, the trains don’t start till 6.00am. We caught a Taxi at about 4.30am and the driver proved to be very reliable and trustworthy. We ended up getting to the airport with time to spare, he ended up being a good friend and he was given a nice tip for his troubles……without him, we would have missed the flight.

Arrived home in good order and condition.

Next cruise --- ten years time.

Photos: Hobart 2014

fartandbelch — Tue, 8 Apr 2014 08:10:00 GMT

April 2014

Hobart and day trips

fartandbelch — Sun, 6 Apr 2014 05:25:00 GMT

The need to use a week’s timeshare and that we hadn’t been to Tasmania together gave us the opportunity to book into a Worldmark Time Share at Seven Mile beach on the northern outskirts of Hobart. Allan had been to Tassie on three separate occasions. The first being on a football trip about 35 years ago (no real recollections of that one) and he had been to Ulverstone (up north) twice to the Australian U/16 basketball championships where he managed the NSW state country team with Shawn McEachin. Both those trips were spent herding kids so there were no tourist activities.

So we decided to book at a time when the weather would be cool but not cold. So the first week in April 2014 seemed like a good idea. We booked the accommodation and got fairly decent air fares from Jetstar. Fly out of Newcastle to Melbourne at 6.00am. A two hour layover then into Hobart at about 11.45am. Some months earlier, we had mentioned our plans to The Horans. They indicated it was something they would like to do as well. We had booked a 2 bedroom apartment with full kitchen facilities, laundry etc so we invited them to join us. We picked up a Renault Koleos at Hobart airport and found our way to Seven Mile beach.

All good first day. Brought provisions at Sorell and had a leisurely look around the district in the afternoon. The Worldmark accommodation is good. The grounds are well kept. Native flora and fauna are prevalent and the beach is a stones throw away. You couldn’t stay at Seven Mile without a vehicle. There is not much more than a general store nearby. The beach is apparently longer than seven mile but we didn’t measure it. Our first tourist day was spent walking the Salamanca markets where we decided that most things were over priced but nonetheless they are probably the best markets we’ve been to. The fresh fruit and produce was exceptional. The markets were far better than those found in The Rocks, Brisbane, Darwin or Broome that we had been to. Greg bought himself a Roger Fedora.

We bought some bread, cheese, tomato and ham and lunched in a park adjacent to Wrestpoint Casino. We then needed the toilets so we went to the Casino where Greg won about $350 on a quinella at Rosehill. So he paid the entrance fee to our tour of Cascade Brewery. The brewery began operations in about 1824 and in some places it shows it. The maintenance and cosmetics of the building looked sparse. It compares unfavourably to the tours we’ve done of other breweries (Speights in Dunedin NZ and TsingTao in Qingdao China)

After our brewery tour we meandered up to Mt. Wellington. A spectacular view of the very spread out Hobart. We were to go the Female Factory but our guides for the day (the ladies) decided the men could wait. They didn’t want the men knowing what makes them tick so they took us back to home base where The Horans cooked a delicious version of Ratatouille.

Day two we set out to go to the Bream Creek Markets. But on the way we detoured via the Sorell Markets. These were the old fashion markets where one mans trash is normally another mans trash but there was some good items to be had. But of course buying things you don’t need on holidays and taking them home is always a problem. Allan bought an all purpose handyman’s knife which doubled as the avocado knife at lunchtime. (only to be confiscagted at the airport on the way home). There were many a local yokel there but as with everywhere in Tasssie so far, the people are just tremendous. Never come across more friendly people. All four of us agree. We travelled about 10 minutes down the road toward Port Arthur where we came across the Bream Creek farmers markets. There weren’t many stalls there but those that were all sold good quality produce. Allan and Greg tried the Lamb n Mint sausages with local made tomato relish and announced them magnificent. Greg also tried some marinated Octopus and said it was pretty nice. Wendy bought a bottle of Bream Creek Chardonnay. We didn’t stay long but it was well worth the visit. We then meandered down the road toward Port Arthur again, stopping at Eaglehawke Officers Quarters (Krissy was getting unwell in the back seat from the winding road). We then mosied on to Port Arthur, had a light lunch before going into the Gaol. It costs $35 for the day. There was a half hour cruise on which Greg, Kris and Allan all had a siesta.

We then joined a group for an introductory tour and information session with a very knowledgeable historian named Colin. He had a passion for the history of Tasmanian and delivered it very well. Port Arthur is a very worthwhile visit and it would be better to go in the morning than the afternoon. We motored back from Port Arthur to Seven Mile via the Donnalley Pub. Dunnalley is a hamlet with a fish coop without fish (except for a few kg of flathead fillets at $35/kg)

It also has a swing bridge that opens to water traffic.

That evening the Goodman’s served up a delicious fare of Korma Lamb, Naan, Basmati Rice and Raita.

Monday we decided we would look at a few sights in Hobart Town. We bought tickets on the hop-on hop off bus and decided the first point of call would be the Female Factory. That is an odd name for a woman’s prison. We paid to do the ‘her story’ tour which was a very good dramatic recital of Mary James, a convicted felon in 1838.

There are three cells to a small area.

Two actors went through ‘her story’ of how she was convicted, how she struggled and coped with the tyranny of authority in the prison. It showed the bastardry of the British in those days.

We then boarded the HOHO bus and went to the Museum and Art Gallery. We didn’t spend any time in the Museum but had a good look through the Art Gallery. To our liking, there were some excellent artworks however the gallery seemed to be lacking. It was less than we had expected of the capital of the Great Tasmania. We then sought out the great Tassie Scallop Pie. The Harbour Lights Café charged the princely sum of $7.80 per pie for the privilege. We all agreed they were nice but overpriced. Then it was back to the car park only to find a parking fine of $32.50 for not doing the right thing. We put it down to experience (or lack thereof). Then it was on to Richmond. Thankfully there were about 6 wineries along the route to Richmond at which we called into four. Frogmore Creek winery proved to be the best of them. We enjoyed the company of Allan Bird at Palmara winery (he is trying to sell it for $650k including a very nice house). Duck Puddle and Coal Valley wineries were friendly but not our cup of tea. Then onto our digs where Allan prepared a trio of scallops for entrée. They consisted of 3 scallops each in a recipe for white wine, one for capers n cream and one for lemon and garlic. We all agreed they were very nice and noted the cooking time needs to be monitored closely. None of the recipes used flour. Greg and the ladies then compiled a succulent meal of Grilled Tasmanian Salmon with asparagus, broccolini and roast potatoes. All was magnificent. Then the ladies challenged the boys to another game of cribbage. On the previous two evenings, Greg and Allan had been the narrow victors. On both occasions, the boys came home with a wet sail, with the ladies only wanting a few more points. In both games the girls snatched defeat from the jaws of victory. So they thought beginners luck cannot stay with Allan. After sufficient sledging the game got under way. In this game, the boys led from start to finish. There were mutterings about Canasta and other games Allan doesn’t play.

Tuesday – Our fourth day into the historic Tassie Trek and we were heading south, down the Southern Outlet, the busiest road in Tasmania. Through the nucleus of the city. On down to Huonville in the Huon Valley. A very picturesque drive that saw cows, apples, Pubs, roadside stalls and more cows. A short stop at Huonville tourist centre and then on down to Franklin (nowhere near the Dam). It was at Franklin that Greg and Allan had a tour through a wooden boat building shed.

It was a teaching shed where people paid good money for the courses. To building a 12ft dingy from scratch (design to finish) costs about $3k plus an enormous amount of time and energy. Wherever possible they use hand tools to shape and finish the boats. Franklin was a sleepy hamlet that is in need of an injection of life and money. We then motored to Geeveston where they have a very good Heritage Centre. Greg bought himself a $10.50 lump of Huon Pine and he is going to ask a friend to turn it for him. Geeveston also has the most expensive lolly shop in the southern hemisphere. Then on to Dover for lunch and a look at the blue birds and white cliffs. The lunch was great, the birds were white and the cliffs were blue. Down onto the Southport Pub.

The southernmost pub in Australia. It was disappointing. Bland and uninteresting. However they certainly know their mathematics in Southport, apparently 1 and 1 still = 2.

We decided to come home via the cultural route. It was along the Southern Outlet we sighted how the Taswegians install child seats in Utes. That night we feasted on Salmon sausage and Blue Eye Trevalla. No Cribbage that night, the girls let their wounds heal.

Wednesday saw us meander north west of Seven Mile Beach to the majestic township of New Norfolf. It is so named due to the amount of people who came from Norfolk Island to settle. The township boasts many antique shops and has a very good Heritage Centre. We had coffee and cake at The Lunatic Assylum aka The Patchwork Café. We had a beer in Australia’s oldest Pub – The Bush Inn.

Wanting another beer (Allan and Greg at least) we decided to meander down the road to Hamilton where we found the Pub. It was closed. So we then went to Bothwell Pub where they proudly displayed Guns and fishing. The ladies were not impressed. Time to start making tracks back to Seven Mile so we quickly darted through Bagdad, avoiding landmines and sniper fire. Then into the Richmond Pub for a schooner and $1 on keno. Back into Sorell for some provisions and then home. The day went quickly. We actually went into three pubs that day. More than we had been in in the first 4 days of being is Tassie.

Thursday we decided to go to the Cadbury factory. Not sure why but the grandkids benefitted the most. Then onto MONA which is a short drive from Cadbury’s. A very interesting place for all to see. Greg and Kris went into the gallery whilst Allan and Wendy explored other aspects. Found a wine tasting going on upstairs near the restaurant. The Winery charged $10 for the privilege but it was well worth it. The wines weren’t to our liking. Too juch acid in most of them. But the tasting was well done and informative. After that we drove to Sandy Bay for some lunch and a look around. The lunch was ordinary fish and chips and the shopping was even less inspiring. It turned out to be a shortened lazy afternoon. We went back to Seven Mile for some quiet time. Then Kris prepared a meal of seafood Tagine which went down a treat.

Friday morning drove to Airport and got the plane home.

In summation, we all agreed the Taswegian people are tremendous. We all agreed we could live there. We all agreed it is a place well worth another trip with some more time to do things.

Darwin and beyond 2013

fartandbelch — Thu, 11 Jul 2013 06:35:00 GMT

We decided we needed to do a domestic trip to balance out our overseas trips. In 2012 we did a long 8 weeks trek through Asia and then later in the year went to Japan for a couple of weeks.

It was time to be patriotic and support the locals. Wendy had been to Darwin 10 years ago with her nursing associates and had raved about it. We decided to give it a go and explore the upper NT in a motorhome as we had done in New Zealand’s south island a couple of years ago.

Virgin came up with some very reasonable air fares and Britz were the most competitive with a 2 berth motor home.

We caught a train to Sydney (as we always do) at 5.03am to catch the plane at 9.40am. Nothing exceptional happened in getting to Darwin except we shared a plane with David Hasselhof who was going there for a fishing trip with Mark Holden (or so the local radio station said).

Arrived on time, went to the Britz depot in Winnellie and picked up the van. It turned out to be a Maui van with TV, Microwave and most other conveniences you need. Especially the air-conditioning (which took a bit of working out but we got used to it). It was a VW Crafter TDI. Very comfortable and easy to drive. Went straight to a Supermarket to get provisions and then set out south-east to find a camp for the night.

We stayed at Hidden Valley Van Park. Quite good, all mod cons, pool that was hot and the powered site cost $40 for the night.

Next day motored toward Kakadu, stopping along the way to visit the

Window on the Wetlands visitors centre and to have lunch at the Bark Hut Road House (Pub.)

We didn’t actually have lunch there; we ate our home made wraps in the van and visited the Pub. It is a very impressive outback Pub. Plenty of Australiana and well set out. Certainly worth a visit. We then went to the edge of Kadadu National Park and found the Aurora Kakadu Resort where we bought our Kakadu permits ($15 each) and found a powered site to park for the night. We need the powered site due to the heat at night.

The next day we motored on to the Bowali Visitors information centre and doubles as a cultrural centre. Well worth visiting. Our next thing to visit was the Nourlangie Aboriginal Rock Art site…..absolutely fascinating.

An insight into the culture of the Aboriginal.

Motored a little further towards Jabiru and pulled into the township to have a look around. There isn’t much at Jabiru township so we did the obligatory circle of the town and, stocked up with a few more supplies and decided to motor on down to Cooinda. This is the tourist village that is the gateway to the Yellow Water Wetlands. We booked in for the night and also booked in for the 4.30pm evening Yellow Water Wetlands Tour. This was very interesting tour, we seen all manner of wildlife including the obligatory crocodiles.

We had two sightings where they were on the banks of the billabong and two sightings where they were sitting in the water waiting for a tourist to put their leg in. The birdlife was spectacular.

We saw a white breasted Sea Eagle which a minutes before caught a fish and was perched high in a tree and having it for dinner. It was a marvellous site.

We left Cooinda on a Friday morning to head toward Katherine. The roads were boring. There were a lot of side roads closed due to recent rains. We stopped at the Mary River road house and had a coffe. This is the first place outside the Kakadu National Park…very forgettable.

Stopped at Pine Creek for lunch. Had a look around the town and went through the Rail Museum. It was a poor excuse for a museum, but when put in context that the rail hadn’t been through that part of town since the 1970’s and very little had been given the Museum Society to work with, it was a great example of Rail history. The old couple that looked after it were a credit to the Museum and the town. We bought some Paw Paw and Ginger Jam and some Mango and Ginger Jam just to support the ladies auxiliary in the town.

From Pine Creek we went on to Katherine. Had a quick look around, bought a few more provisions and found the Knotts Crossing Leisure Park. It is one of the best parks we have been to. Very well appointed. The next day (Saturday) we had a good look at Katherine.

Bought a trilogy of small aboriginal arts from a painter called Kenny Wark. As it turned out he was there at the gallery and we met him and talked with him about his art.

Went to the Katherine Museum which has some great remnant of the Bush Telegraph and the history of the area. It shows the contribution Clyde Fenton who pioneered ‘the flying doctor’ in the region. There is also good information on the events during WW11 when Katherine was bombed.

The following day we drove to Mataranka to look at the ‘springs’ and the Pub. We didn't take photo's of the springs, mainly because camaras can't swim.

The springs at Mataranka Homestead are quite good in that they are slow moving and very clear although they have an odour. We went for a short swim just to say we had done it.

The Pub at Mataranka Homestead is well laid out and caters to the rich ($38 for a steak and $70 for a carton of beer). The van park is basic but sufficient. The old homestead as per ‘We of the never never’ fame was there to see. We also went and had a swim at the ‘Bitter Springs’. Jumped in and swan downstream about 100m. This stream flowed slowly – into the Roper River.

Next day drove back to Katherine to stay another night at Knotts Crossing Caravan park. It was at this time we found out that Colin and Monica Byrnes would not be making Darwin this week so we would miss them for the ANZAC ceremony. We rang Monica and she sounded quite ill. Bronchial type infection we think.

So we left Katherine for the second time and headed north toward Daly River. Whilst not a long trip it was a boring trip. Country side was much the same all the way but the roads got worse the further we went. At one stage, we turned down a one lane sealed road. Before too long. the road train that came around the bend at what seemed to be twice the sign posted speed on the crest of the hill scared the ‘bejesus’ out of us both. This reinforced the need for vigilance on these outback roads and that regardless of who is at fault, you will always lose against a 4 dog road train. We did make it to Daly River (Nauiyu) township and went looking for the Mango Tree Caravan Park. Apparently it is across the river, downstream and only accessible by dirt road. We decided against it, did a U turn and head back to the highway and head further north. There wasn’t much to see and do at Daly River.

We needed some diesel so we called into Adelaide River. The BP Road house has a Van park at the back. It was well shaded, had a great pool and the people were very friendly.

After booking in, we found out there was a band playing at the Adelaide River Hotel which adjoined the Service Station and the Van Park the next night in preparation for the ANZAC day service at the famous Adelaide River War Cemetery. So we booked in for two nights. It was a good move. The next day we thought we would visit the Rail exhibit. When we got there, they were expecting a special ‘GHAN TRAIN’ from Darwin.

It was put on specially to coincide with the ANZAC ceremonies down the Darwin to Alice Springs line. There were 200 people make the train ride. They got on in Darwin, travelled to Adelaide River where they got off and were ferried to the Adelaide River War Cemetery. They then reboarded the train for Katherine where they stayed the night and went to the Katherine Dawn Service. The locals all came out to see them. The local prison farm provided them with a special welcome.

The band and ‘occasion’ at the Adelaide River Pub went well and everybody made it for the dawn service. There were probably over 2000 people there. The service was very long (75min) mainly because of the wreaths being laid. Apparently every local organisation and business feels the need to lay a wreath. All the social clubs, the emergency services, the councillors, the pubs, the local earthmover, the LJ Hooker man, the local general store owner, the stock and station agent and the old bloke down the road laid a wreath.

Then there was the Administrator for the NT who made a speech. A lady called Sally Somethingorother. A year 9 student could have delivered it just as well. Her attempt at public speaking failed. She read her speech as though someone else wrote it. The other thing about the speech was its main man. The NT claimed a bloke who was born in Victoria and lived in the NT for a couple of years as their own. He was certainly a valiant man who epitomised the Anzac and deserved his medals, but the NT people claimed him as their one and only VC winner. Not sure what the Victorian’s think of it given he never went back there and is buried in Albury. On the positive side, it was certainly a well run service and the Squadron Leader made a great speech and the Air Force Chaplain delivered a very good address and sang with a beautiful voice. Nigel Scullion did a good job as M.C.

Photos: NT 2013

fartandbelch — Tue, 25 Jun 2013 14:48:00 GMT

Beppu Japan 2012

fartandbelch — Thu, 13 Jun 2013 16:06:00 GMT

We were lucky enough to have Miiko arrange our tickets from Hiroshima to Beppu by coach, prior to us leaving Oz. Again the coach from the main bus depot in Hiroshima was confortable and on time. After about 90 minutes of travelling south aling the highway, we made what we thought was an unscheduled stop at a dock. We arrived and sat for about 15 minutes, thinking we were waiting for other passengers. Then, the driver started the coach up and drove it into the bowels of a ferry the was docked about 100m away. We didn't know it but our coach trip from Hiroshma to Beppu was going to be coach/ferry/coach. It was a pleasant deviation for us, not having been on a bus in a ferry before. The Ferry arrivde on the other side of the bay about 90 minutes later and we set off for Beppu on road again. We arrive Beppu late afternoon and didn't have a clue how to get to the Resorpia Time Share which is perched high in the hills of Beppu. After a few minutes of broken conversation with one of the bus depot staff, he put us in a taxi, told the driver where to go and within 15 minutes we were there. Hotel Resorpia is a very nice Hotel overlooking Beppu. We had a small room with minimal inclusions but after our time in Hiroshima sleeping on the floor, the queen bed was a welcome site. The facilities of the hotel were quite good, especially the Onsens on the lower ground floor. One for women and one for men. An Onsen is a large communal bath. Beppu is renowned for its natural springs and people come from everywhere to go to them. A lot of people go to the general public Onsens that cater for mixed bathing. The bathing is of course - naked. The Onsens in our Hotel were not natural spring however they were the next best thing to it. On our second day we decided to try them. Its somewhat disconcerting, bathing naked with 12 other men in a very lage bath that is only 2ft deep. Wendy went into the ladies Onsen and tried to get in with her swimming costume on....she was abruptly told...get your gear off. Once we overcame our shyness, it became a daily, if not twice daily event to have an Onsen bath and think nothing of our modesty. Hotel Resporpia has a good restaurant which we only tried on one occassion. That night we decided to order the 'special' of the day. It turned out the main one was a soup with one very large fish head swimming in it, along with some noodles and onions etc. We enjoyed the meal but left hungry.

We explored Beppu as we do all the places we go. We were lucky in this instance in that the Hotel has a free shuttle to and from the CBD, so we were able to go into the main drag, work out a game plan for the day and the next day and plan accordingly. The was a very informative tourist booth at the main bus deput/railway station and we used them very well. Of course we walked the streets taking in the culture and marvelling at the Japanese way of life. Of course it is similar to ours but diffferent in so many ways. We especially liked the food. Allan liked the sashimi whereas Wendy preferred other delights. Our breakfasts were ones of innovation. We didn't feel like eating seawood and Miso for breakfast so we self catered in the room. The wasn't a kitchen so boiled eggs in the kettle, a little yoghurt and a cuppa was the order of then day.

We did a day tour of the hot spring that are littered throughout Buppu. Most are that hot you cannot touch them, some boil eggs on the spring and sell them, there are too many different ypes of springs for me to remember suffice to say they are very intersting and we had a splendid day visisting them. The next day we picked up a local bus that took us to Shifu. It is a little villiage in the mountains about 90 minutes by bus and it basically catered for the tourist. The main attraction was the very fit lads that would Ricksaw you around for and hour for a small fortune. The town reminded us of Morpeth in the Hunter Valley where the locals sold their produce at inflated prices. Having said that, it was a great day outing and would reccomend it. Another outing in Beppu was a day of walking the streets to get a feel for the joint. Of course the walking was also part of our keep fit campaign ( which sometimes goes by then wayside when you are on holidays) We decided we wanted to go back to Osaka by Ferry. So we walked to the Ferry terminal and booked ourselves a cabin, which, for the price should have been the Presidential Suite but is was just a four berth cabin to ourselves with hard beds. The ferry was facinating. The nightlife was where Japanese girls same in English, the restaurant sold mass produced food and the locals drank beer until they fell asleep. We really enjoyed the ferry trip, it had everything. Entertainment, food, drink, drunks, great veiws leaving Beppu Harbour and similar view in the morning of Osaka Harbour.

On arrival in Osaka for the second time, we found the train station and made our way to a hotel somewhere in the city. It was The Hotel Chou but it wasn't an hotel it was actually a backpackers hostel which we like to do. Once we had established that we didn't want to sleep on the floor, we had a very good room with a comforatble bed, good wifi and the hostel services were very accomodating. On our second visit into Osaka we arrived for the first Tuesday in November so on the Sunday before, we started looking for somewhere to watch the race. There are two Aussie places in Osaka that we thought might have it. One was called Outback Steakhouse and the other was Captain Kangaroo. Hopeless the both of them. Neither opened before 6.00pm and they didn't close till early AM. We think they were actually nightclubs. Hence we missed the race. On day 3 in Osaka we did a day trip by train up to Kyoto. It is a very user friendly place. We walked the streets, went through a Temple and the gardens, had a nice meal and returned home that night feeling weary. Kyoto is well worht a visit, a day trip is not enough.

Our trip had come to an end and we flew out of Osaka with many good memories of Japan.

I summation, we both liked Japan. It is user friendly, the people are tremendous and they will do anything for you. The way of life is fast, the culture is facinating and the transportation system is tremendous, albiet very expensive. We loved the food, the people and culture but we both agree, we won't make a special trip back to Japan. It lacks something (or at least we didn't find it). It lacks that something that would drag you back. In comparing Japan with other countries we have been we would go back to most other cou tries before Japan. We still have a lot of unfinished business in India, China, Cambodia, Vietnam, Tibet and then into Laos, Sikkim, Bhutan....

Japan 2012 - Osaka

fartandbelch — Sun, 9 Jun 2013 08:09:00 GMT

Jetstar did it this time. They advertised return airfares from Sydney to Osaka at a very cheap rate. $1371 for both tickets all inclusive. (taxes etc)

So we looked at what timeshares we could get in Japan. Thankfully there was a week available in Beppu in late October. So we booked the accomodation, booked the air fares and then started planning the trip. Although we knew nothing of Japan as it was never on our radar, we decided there's no time like the present. We surfed the net expentensively before we went and booked a couple of nights stay in Osaka, a weeks accomodation at the timeshare in Beppu and 2 nights in a traditional Japanese room in Hiroshima. All other details were left to our imagination when we got there.

The original plan was to get the train to Sydney but the night before we left, we perused the rail timetable again and decided it was cutting it too fine to take the train and make the connection. So we decided to drive down in 'the bullet' which is Rebecca's 18 y/o Volvo. It did exactly that, it went perfectly. Goes at 120klm without a problem and never missed a beat. $1500 well spent. We caught the plane from Sydney to Coolangatta, went rhough customs, then flew to Osaka without a hitch.

We arrived in Osaka late evening and found the local train from the airport into the city where we then changed to the subway to take us to the xxxxx Motel which we booked on-line. It was a fair and reasonable hotel, clean and friendly in a decent neighbourhood. Our first Japanese meal was in a local Cafe accross the rooad from the hotel. It was fairly bland but a nice change.

Day 2 in Osaka was a day of discovery. Find out what there is to do, how to do it, where and when was the best time etc. We decided the first place to visit was the Osaka Castle. This was a fascinating place in the heart of Osaka. A castle surrounded by a moat. it was reminscent of the medieval castles of England etc. It has a history that is best read in wikipedia, suffice to say it is a magnificent structure and well worth a visit. We also spent some time at the Osaka Museum of History and whilst there were not many signs in English, it was well worth the visit.

We both enjoy exploring a city by the local transportation systems whether they be bus, tram, subway, ferry and train. Osaka is well equipped for the tourist to explore by all these methods. We learned the subway system and how to read the signs. We spent some time looking for the Willer Bus Company office to collect bus tickets we had booked on line for our trip from Osaka to Hiroshima. We found on this, our first visit to Osaka to be a very pleasant experience with most things being user friendly and the people were very hospitable.

We left Osaka after two days by a very comfortable Willer Coach.

It left on time and we enjoyed a pleasant coach trip to Hiroshima. We found our accomodation on a site called Wimdu. Its not a site we had used before but proved to be excellent. We booked two nights in a Tatami, which is a traditional Japanese room where you sleep on a Futon on the floor. The Tatami was owned by an enterprising young lady called Miiko. She owns it and rents it only to people who meet her criteria. You apply for the accomodation, give your details and circumstances and she decides whether she will accept your booking.

We did explain our age and that we would prefer a real bed. She was good enought to arrange two Futons each so we decided to give it a go. She accepted our booking and over the weeks prior to travel, we exchanged many emails and she also became a sort of travel agent for us. She organised and paid for coach tickets for us from Hiroshima to Beppu. In getting to Hiroshia, she gave us very explicit instructions on how to get to the Tatami from the coach depot. We followed the instruction on getting onto the local street cars and getting off at a specific stop near Hkiroshima Port, walk two blocks to find a key, then walk another block to get into the Tatami. It all went like clockwork which was amazing for we two Aussies in a non English speaking country. The Tatami is like nothing we had ever experienced before. It is a very basic room with minimal furniture. It has a small kitchen and a small bathroom and thats about it. Miiko had arranged for 4 Futons for us and also had some traditional japanese dress available for our use. There was a small table in the middle of the room where you ate sitting on the floor. It was May and the nights were cold but the Futons kept us warm albeit very close to the floor which gave us some aches and pains. Of course after we arrived at the Tatami, we organised our gear and went for an hour long walk around the suburb. It was a fascinating walk as we were walking down back alleys and looking into peoples lives (backyards, shops etc). We of course did a Reccy for where we would eat that night. We found a great little place that had a capacity of about 15 people. It turned out to be an Hiroshima Pizza Restaurant. Not the Pizza you find every where else in the world but a special concoction of cabbage, bacon, egg, and 4 or 5 other ingredients that go to make up a most magnificent meal. Sitting abreast the table that overlooked the 'cooks' hot plate was a remarkable experience.

The following day we spent in Hiroshima City. We visited 'ground zero' where the A bomb did its thing. We went to the memorials and museums that have been very well put together by the Japanese people. It is quite a moving place to visit. The Peace Bell and the monuments to the children who lost their lives is something special. Several hour wandering through the museum brings a lump to the throat.

Photos: Japan 2012

fartandbelch — Sat, 8 Jun 2013 19:39:00 GMT

Shanghai China

fartandbelch — Tue, 28 May 2013 11:37:00 GMT

We have always liked visiting Beijing and this time it was no different. Our time there was eventful and we hope to return in the near future. In leaving Beijing for Shanghai we had to catch the Bullet train from Beijing South Railway Station. We made our way from the hotel to the station without fuss and arrived at the station to find it was one of the most magnificent railways stations you could wish for. Every thing was modern, spic and span. There was not smoking in any part of it. The signs for departing trains and general information signs were also plentiful and modern. The train was spectacular. Sleek, modern, smooth, excellent food and of course, very quick. Around 300klmh was the norm. The journey was uneventful and we arrived in Shanghai on time (of course).

We then made our way from Shanghai station to the sub-way line where we figured out how to get to the backpackers accomodation at the Blue Mountain Honqgou Youth Hostel. It was quite a distance from the main railway station but we found without too much trouble once we learned how and where the subway went. The Youth Hostel was fine. It was cheap. We are on the second floor. The people were freindly and helpful. There were several good restaurants within walking distance. The one next door became our favourite as they served cold beer at very cheap prices. Allan discovered the little stall next door had good dumplings and egg-bread for breakfast. Shanghai turned out to be a very user-freindly city. It is western in many ways but very chinese as well. We found the travel in and around the city very easy. The sub-ways and buses were cheap and easy. We especially liked The Bund area in the city. In our wanderings around Shanghai we visited a number of galleries and of course the Shanghai Museum. The district where we stayed, Hongquou, had a few good places to eat but there wasn't much to see and do there. You have to catch the subway to most of the sights. Thats not a problem as their transportation system works well and easy to use.

Shanhai was the last stop on our Asia on a shoestring tour of 2012. It was a good way to finish our holiday and we have fabulous memories. We both agree, Lhasa Tibet and the associated travel was the most memorable. Its a fascinating place.

Photos: Shanghai China

fartandbelch — Mon, 27 May 2013 12:19:00 GMT

Beijing China

fartandbelch — Fri, 18 May 2012 10:48:00 GMT

Friday 11^th May - arrive Beijing West station.

Of course the train was on time.

We woke for some unknown reason at 3.00am for a scheduled stop. We didn’t know, but it was Taiyuan, the place we had visited 6 years ago when Zac and Francine were teaching there. Only took a photo and managed to get back to sleep soon thereafter. We were soon into West Beijing after exchanging emails with our Swiss and American friend and having our photo’s taken with Jack and Chan our Chinese travelling companions.

We soon made our way to the subway, lugging our backpacks that had grown with souvenirs. After some confusing with the spelling of our subway station, we finally made it to the Super 8 Hotel/Hostel in Denshikou. It is located down the Shi Jia Hutong, set amidst a lot of domestic dwellings, little businesses and local authorities such as the traffic police, sporting lottery offices and local restaurants. We did our normal thing when arriving at a new location - short rest and a good reconnoitre of the local environs. This time in Beijing we were a bit surprised at the amount of smog. It was some percentage worse than our last visit 5 years ago. Our accommodation proved to be very good. Good and clean, the staff were fine, the travel staff organised a couple of shows for us, the only thing amiss was the wifi and LAN, it was intermittent. Sometimes it worked sometimes it didn’t. They set a new world record - 36hrs to do a 1 ½ kg load of washing.

Saturday 12^th May - we decided the first thing to do was to book our seats on the Bullet train to Shanghai on Tuesday morning.

The Beijing Chinglish is notorious but this is ridiculous. This toilet sign is in full veiw at Beijing main Railway Station. It is about two metres high. One of many!

Went to Beijing main railway station, went to the one and only ticket queue that had English speaking people. All went well with the long queue until about when we were 5 from the front, an ignorant Chinaman sidled up to the front of the queue and tried to get in front the five in front of us.

A couple of people shoulder him off. When we got to 3 in front of us, Allan tapped him on the shoulder and told him to piss off. He didn’t but there was no way we were going to let him in. A couple of the other locals gave Allan the thumbs up for telling him where to go. We got our tickets but unfortunately he was able to barge in soon after. Score 1 for the westerners. It was then off to the markets for some of Allan’s favourite past time - bargaining. Bought quite a few things and back to the hotel to prepare ourselves for the evening at the Beijing Acrobat. Our preparation of course included a nanny-nap.

The Beijing Acrobats were absolutely magnificent. They went for an hour and amazed us at their ability to do things we can all only dream of.

Back to the Hutong for a meal. At about 9.00pm we walked down the Hutong to the end of the street and turned right. Found a nice place where a young girl who spoke a little English, helped us order. The food was OK but nothing special.

Sunday 13^th May - mothers day.

Allan cooked breakfast - he walked down the Hutong , across the street and bought a couple of what we call ‘egg bread.’ It is a pancake batter spread thinly, then an egg cracked on to and spread thinly. Once partially cooked, it is then turned, the pancake is painted with a mixed of chilli/bbq/tomato/soy sauce, spring onions added, then something that resembles corn chips. It is then folded into 6 and put in a plastic bag.

Sounds great, unfortunately the flavourings were not up to scratch that day. We then went to Wangfujing Street for a look and reminisce on our previous visit. What a disappointment. The food merchants were all rip-off merchants. The food was crap and they charged the earth for it. Allan walking away twice after ordering and being told the price and Wendy did the same after asking for a Mango Juice (a real Mango was sitting there) and she was given Mango cordial. They wanted 10RMB for something that was worth 2RMB. We found a number of instances where they changed the price for the westerner. We told them where to go.

Wangfujing Street.

That night we went to the Red Theatre to see the Story of Kung Fu.

It was a very well done piece of choreography, music, settings, costumes and storyline. We enjoyed it immensely.

Monday 14^th May - plan for the day was to do all shopping so we could just enjoy Shanghai when we got there without having to go shopping.

We were on a mission to get Garry (Allan’s brother) a Samsung Galaxy Tablet and an Ipad2 for next to nothing. We had been looking since Chengdu and had no luck. Some people wanted outrageous prices. Up to AU$700 in some cases. Anyway, Allan found a bloke in booth B4035 in Electrical section of a very large electronics market on the north west side of Beijing who was amenable to talk turkey on price. About an hour into the negotiations we talked about usage and converting it to English and making sure it worked before we left his store. It was nearly 2 hours later, after we had established that the Ipad would not work in Australian wifi and the price he wanted was out of the ball park for one that would however they were able to come to an arrangement of AU$380 for a 16gb Samsung Tablet, wifi only that will work worldwide. Anyway, all ended up OK.

This is the salesman Allan spent 2 hours with to get a Samsung Galaxy 10.1" tablet;

It should always be remembered when haggling, they will not sell at a loss or without making money. A case in point is when Allan asked a young lady for the price on a keyboard for the Ipad2. Negotiations started at 680RMB which was written on the box. Negotiations finished at 150RMB. Don’t fall for the trap of thinking 20-30% off is a good deal. The other one was a set of what Allan believed wes a fake Bose on-ear headphones. They wanted 480RMB, got it for 150RMB.

That night we went to the Novotel Peace in Beijing for dinner as part of Mothers Day. We had the banquet. What a disappointment. Very bland French food cooked by Chinese Chefs.

That was Beijing….a great city to visit. One amazing thing that happened whilst we were there - it rained for about half an hour on Sunday evening, on Monday morning, the skies were clear and the place smelled a whole lot better.

Photos: Beijing China

fartandbelch — Fri, 18 May 2012 07:14:00 GMT

Lhasa - Tibet

fartandbelch — Sat, 12 May 2012 12:26:00 GMT

Saturday 5^th May.

Lobsang, our guide

had left his telephone number with us so we were able to ring him at about 7.30am to tell him Wendy was not up to doing any tourist sites today. We had improved after we got off the train on Friday afternoon and thought we would be fine. Unfortunately the headaches and general lethargy set in and Panadol was required. Allan did a couple of short walks to buy some fruit and bread but it was not until 11.00am that we ventured out of the room to walk the main drag of Lhasa which is called Beijing Xarlam. We walked down as far as the Potala Palace which we were to visit in the next day or so. We took one look at the amount of steps and decided to make sure we left it until we were feeling much better. Our stroll lasted about an hour and a half and when we got back to the Lhasa Hostel, Lobsang was waiting there for us. He was concerned about Wendy’s health and had brought her some altitude sickness vials that promised to bring relief. She decided to give it a go.

Maybe it was a combination of the Panadol and the ‘snake oil medicine’ but we felt better that afternoon and went for an hour long walk. We found a restaurant that sold Indian, Western (whatever that is), Italian, Nepalese and Tibetan food. Allan had some Indian food and Wendy ordered a Tibetan Set. The Indian food of was a mutton curry and whilst it was quite good, it tasted like it was cooked by a non-Indian. Wendy’s Tibetan ‘curried chicken set’ consisted of a flavoursome curry, spiced vegetables, rice and chilli, all this along with some Naan bread meant we had a nice meal. Back to the Hostel, bed and a movie.#

Sunday 6^th May 2012

Woke feeling much better although our sleep was broken quite often due to the altitude sickness. The sickness was hitting us in a number of ways. We had headaches, lethargy and along with the general pollution, we had minors ‘colds’ that entailed blowing the nose a lot. Wendy also developed a bad cough.

Breakfast that day consisted of a salad sandwich and a piece of fruit. We met Lobsang at 9.00am and set off for what turned out to be a fascinating day. We firstly walked the 1000m from the Hostel down to the Potala Palace where we registered for next days tour at 10.00am. We then did a U turn and walked back down Beijing Xarlem to the Jokhang Temple where we spent the next three hours listening to the history of Buddhism and Lhasa and the Tibetan way. The Temple was surrounded by pilgrims circumbambulating the temple in a clockwise direction. If you wanted to go around, you had to do it in a clockwise direction. To not do so would be disrespectful. Jokhang Temple is the spiritual centre of Tibet, the Holy of Holies, the destination of millions of pilgrims. We went though the Temple of Prayer Wheels at prayer time. The whole area was a working temple and to see the locals and the pilgrims praising Buddha in the many varied ways was fascinating. There were people from aged 20 to aged 80, practising a prayer ritual that meant you stood upright with a piece of wood in each hand. You then went down to your knees and then flat on your face, using the wood in each hand to slide onto the ground. You do this 500 times per day (apparently).

Another form of prayer is to hold in your right hand, a prayer wheel, you rotate the wheel in a clockwise motion. Inside the prayer wheel is the scriptures written on paper and wound around the wheel. There are many and varied Prayer Wheels but they all have the same significance in Prayer.

This photo was taken in the bowels of a back alleys off Barkor Street where everyone was praying 'the mantra'. Lobsang said it was a special day, we were lucky to see it. He has never taken anyone else there and didn't know how we would be received.

After lunch we went to Norbulingka, The Summer Palace, it is 46 acres and located in the west of Lhasa City. The Summer Palace is exactly that. In the summer time the Dalai Lama spent most of the time here and in the winter he spent it at the Potala Palace. The day we were there, there was a Tibetan Opera being performed by the Lhasa Opera Company.

It was very interesting and we guessed the storyline. It may have been about a Prince/King (man on horse) and a female who toyed with his affections.

We watched it for about 15 minutes (the most we’ve watched any Opera let alone a Tibetan one)

The costumes were spectacular.

We then walked around the Summer Palace in a clockwise direction and viewed four Palaces of the Dalai Lamas. No. 5, 8, 13 and 14 (the current D.L.) That took about 2 hours. When it was time to go, we walked past the Opera which was still going.

Lobsang noted that the Lhasa Opera Company performers are paid very well but he didn’t elaborate what that meant.

After our dinner that night we strolled down Beijing Xarlem to the Potala Square Garden which is basically a very large public area situated directly opposite the Palace, where the locals gather and enjoy the Gardens and the water fountains. In the middle of the Square is a large area that is commonly used for communal gatherings and festivals. That night we were lucky enough to come across a few hundred people doing what could be best described as a ‘line dance’ to music that was piped across the area by loud speakers on light poles.

They were being led by a lady in the middle and quite a number of children joined her there. Basically, they formed a very large circle and danced to the music in a similar fashion to that of line dancing. Another interesting feature of the event was that the very large water fountains (maybe 20 or more) sprayed in time with the music. Yes, sprayed in time with the music.

When the music went high pitched or up tempo, the fountains changed shape, direction and height. It was very impressive. The other interesting feature was the presence of three Army Guards with weapons going through the crowd making sure they didn’t encroach on the middle. They made sure the spectators were separated from those dancing. Also in the background was a large Fire Brigade truck fully ready to hose down any trouble.

The people were having such a great time I don’t think this would ever be necessary. We stayed around long enough for the Potala Palace lights to come on, it is quite spectacular in the dusk with the lights on.

Monday 7^th May 2012

We were booked into the Potala Palace walking tour at 10.00am however Lobsang called for us at 9.00am and we walked to the Palace entrance where Lobsang advised us it would be better if we went unguided from there as guided tours are restricted to one hour and if a guide allows it to go over that time limit, he is fined a substantial amount and also it would give us more time to walk up and through it at our own pace. This seemed reasonable. So, we made our way slowly through the security at the main entrance, then another security point further into the outskirts of the Palace and we went up more steps to the ticketing office. It costs 100RMB per person. We were happy with the progress we were making, the illness was still with us but we were coping.

The Potala Palace is Lhasa’s cardinal landmark and stands out like a beacon in all directions.

It was set up in the 7^th century by a bloke called King Songsten Gambo.

It is set on 41 hectares and has over 1000 rooms, although some say there are only 999 rooms. Some are dedicated to secular use and others for living. We followed other touring groups so we didn’t get lost. The important aspects of the Palace and the Buddas 1 to 14 and all the relevant statues, relics, artefacts and paraphernalia all had English translations so we didn’t feel we lost anything not having a guide. They can be over-informative sometimes and most of the information, whilst informative at the time, is lost soon after. The Palace is a fascinating place . After about 2 hours we met Lobsang at the rear gate.

We then took him back to the Hostel so Allan could get out the Ipad and show him where Australia is.

He has led a sheltered life and comes from a nomad family about 2 hours drive east of Lhasa. He has 3 brothers, 2 of whom are Monks and live in a monastery and the eldest brother still lives with his parents. He knows very little of the outside world. That day, we taught him the difference between Australian and Austria. Where Australia is on the map, how big it is and some minor information on the lifestyle. We also showed him the trail we had been on to get to Lhasa and some of the photo’s we’d taken. He said he wants to travel but cannot get a passport. It is very difficult for people under 50 y/o to obtain a passport and then they have many hurdles to jump. Mainly ones of ‘reason’ and sponsorship.

After he got bored with that we asked him to take us to a local Tibetan Eatery and he could line us up with a bowl of Tibetan noodles. Tibetan Noodles is the staple of the locals. He took us to a place he had never been before. He ordered Yak noodle soup and some Momo’s. The soup was a little tasteless. It had very little Yak meat in it, some spring onions, a tasteless broth and some home made noodles that were undercooked. The Momo’s were excellent. A Momo is basically the same as a wonton but the dough is thicker. Allan tried both Tibetan Teas. The first was a black tea made with Yak Milk and sugar which tasted OK, the other was a Tea made with Yak Butter, he didn’t like it. So now he had tasted most things to do with the Yak although straight Yak Butter was not on his agenda.

We wandered around after lunch looking at oil paintings of Tibetan life. Seen a few we liked but couldn’t agree on which one and apart from that, they were ’over the top’ expensive relying on the rich tourist. They missed out with us.

That afternoon we went to the Sera Monastery. Built in the 1419 it is one of the three great Monasteries in Lhasa and one of the six great monasteries of the Gelug sect of Buddhism in Tibet. The Sera monastery is known for its Buddhism Scriptures Debating where monks are seen preparing for monastic exams by staging mock debates in the ritual way. Some sit cross legged under trees while others run from group to group giving vigorous hand-claps to end the statement or make a point. It is all part of the education and promotion through the ranks for the Monks.

Even the Dalai Lama went through it.

The visit was fascinating and the ablution block disgusting.

Tuesday 8^th May

Later start today, 9.30am to the Drepung Monastery. This is the largest monastery in the world and is part of the Gelug sect. Drepung Monastary means ‘ Auspicious rice Pile Temple’.

A couple of interesting aspects are the use of solar hot water heaters for their cooking water as shown in the photo below. You can see the pot sitting on the satellite dish being heated. Beacuse you are at about 3700m. it only takes about ten minutes to heat the kettle.

It also shows in the background the Prayer Flags that cover parts of the hillside as part of their hopes and dreams for eternal happiness.

It is situated at the foot of a mountain so of course there are many steps to be climbed to enjoy it. Again it was a fascinating place and Lobsang did a great job of explaining the history and beauty of it. Three hours of walking up and down steps and hearing the same history over and over again was enough and we took the afternoon off.

The afternoon was spent washing and snoozing. At about 5.00pm we decided to go to Barkor Street again and do a bit of haggling. Souvenirs for us and the offspring. Allan enjoys the haggling and its marvellous how much they will take you for if you let them. We have a philosophy that they will never lose on the deal, now matter how much you buy it for. For instance, Allan haggled for a Yak statue. They originally wanted 550RMB, after ten minutes of saying no, being physically pulled back and continually being asked ‘but whatsa you best price’ they agreed on 130RMB. This is typical. The T shirts always start at about 95RMB, they normally sell for about 35RMB dependant on your will.

Somehow during all the walking, haggling, walking away, saying NO, and forgetting what you really want, we ended up with two Yak statues. They will be book ends.

Wednesday 9^th May - leave Lhasa

We were booked on the 1345hrs Train T28 Lhasa to Beijing, so we had a leisurely morning, bought some provisions for the train trip, packed and showered as late as possible and waited for Lobsang to collect us and take us to the station. Our bags are getting heavy.

We exchanged email addresses with Lobsang.

Got to the train station at about 1215hrs, said goodbye.

Got onto the train at about 1310hrs only to find people already in our berths. The people in our berths had been put in there by a couple of shifty Chinese travel guides who had sold them a package deal and told them they would get them a 4 berth cabin. They had booked the tour to Everest Base Camp in February and so expected they would be looked after. We booked ours only 10 days ago and got two bottom bunks. The dodgy Chinese Travel Official had told them just to stay in the cabin and they would sort out the people (us) when they arrived. They had stuffed up in the bookings and said they would fix it.

The Chinese Travel Officials then tried to talk us into giving up a bottom bunk so they could have four together. We said NO WAY. We had travelled right throughout south east Asia in middle and upper bunks and this was our first time at two bottom bunks in a soft sleeper. It turned out the four people, were a family of 3 from Germany/Switzerland (1 girl aged about 9) and an American and they told the Chinese Travel officials they would leave the train if they couldn’t get a cabin. The Travel Officials did some horse trading with some other Chinese passengers but failed. They approached us again and we again told them NO WAY. They went away again and tried some more horse trading. We were nearly at the stage where decisions had to be made, it was 15 minutes before the train was due to leave. Allan would not see the four of them go off the train because of this and was nearly to the point of selling his bottom sleeper to the Chinese Travel Officials when miraculously, the Travel Officials found a way around it. We think they bribed two Chinese passengers. (we hope they got a good price)

The family and the Yank got their cabin as they were promised and we got our two bottom bunks in what was the best train accommodation we had had on the Shoestring Tour.

The train has oxygen pumped slowly into it but with four in the cabin we decided to use nasal oxygen just to ensure we didn’t go to over 5000 metres and feel the same as before.

That evening we dined on pre-packaged rice and stew. It is a small package that has four components, 1, a rice vessel, 2 a sachet of stew, 3 a heat package, 4 a water sachet. It works well. You put the stew into the rice, put the lid tightly on the container, pull the string at the side of the container which releases the water onto the heat pack. When the water reacts with the heat pack it produces tremendous heat. So hot you cannot handle it on the bottom. After 15 minutes, you have a meal. Great for camping, not so great for a train meal. We even had a cold beer with dinner, the first one for quite some time.

Allan made friends with the German family and the Yank. They are Michaela, Hans ,Katarina (aged 9) and Fred Allen the yank (aged 56)

We met them for a drink in the dining car on the second day of the train trip. Katharina was a great little girl and amused herself with the help of IT equipment.

Lhasa has been a great trip for us although the altitude sickness has certainly impacted on our activities. It has been very educational and Lobsang has been a tremendous guide. There are a few things we won’t miss. The constant smell of incense no matter where you went. The acrid smell of Yak butter. The pollution in the air was sufficient for a good percentage of the locals to wear face masks. A lot of the parents made their children wear them whilst they didn’t.

Our two Chinese travelling companions in the top bunks are very nice fellows. The only word of English they know is thank you. They were very good travelling companions.

# Before leaving on the ‘Asia on a shoestring’ tour, Allan copied about 20 movies onto a portable hard-drive, so we watched one of those on the 10inch Dell laptop we brought with us. We also had a pair of small computer speakers that got power from the computer. A nice little entertainment package. We were also able to plug our Ipod/iphones into it when we wanted music and on the occasions where we had wifi in our room we were able to listen to radio around the world. We mainly listened to the Sydney ABC radio to keep us up to date. On our Iphones/Ipad we have an App called TuneIn which will provide feed from any radio station in the world. NOT IN CHINA.

They have blocked access to outside radio from them. Every time we tried to use it, they directed us to what they said was a ‘similar Chinese radio station. We got around that by going through the computer and getting direct feed from WWW.ABCradio.com.au

Photos: Lhasa Tibet

fartandbelch — Fri, 11 May 2012 18:14:00 GMT

Chengdu China

fartandbelch — Tue, 1 May 2012 18:14:00 GMT

Saturday 28^th April 2012 Chengdu, Sichuan, China

We woke on the train from Zhangjiajie to Dazhou at about 6.00am and we were still the only two in the compartment. Train Was due in at 09:26 so we had a leisurely banana sandwich and a cup of coffee for breakfast. Wendy played some solitaire on the card table and Allan watched the scenery go by. At about 08:05 the train slowed into a station, the conductor sidled up to the compartment and gave us our tickets back saying Dazhou, Dazhou. Bloody Hell. We were at Dazhou and we weren’t ready. A scramble to repack the bags and get off the train. Little did we know (the conductor knew) the train would be there for 15 minutes to replenish supplies. We had plenty of time but didn’t know it.

So, we had 3 hours to wait around Dazhou Station. We checked our luggage into the baggage area and went for a stroll looking for something we didn’t know what, mainly a western toilet. Walked slowly until about 09:00 till the fast food chain called DICO’S opened. It is a very clean and well run Chinese version of McDonalds. But no western toilet. Never the less, it was far better than anything else on offer.

We then went into the ‘special’ waiting area for those passengers boarding train D5183 to Chengdu. You show your ticket, they then scan you with a wand, you then put your luggage through an airport style x-ray machine, you then walk through an archway that scans you. Only to get inside and find nothing more than some ordinary seats and disgusting toilets. The security is all for show. When any lights go off, they ignore them. We noted one lady set off three lights, one of the rail staff confronted her, she told her where to go and walked away. It keeps people employed.

We boarded bullet train D5183 on time at 11:15. The seating is tremendous. Rows of 3 and 2, with at least 8 inches of leg room. Very comfortable and smooth. Top speed of 195klm/h but mostly cruised at 155klmh. Reached Chengdu 5 minutes early - best train ride we’ve had whilst travelling. At Chengdu Station, we told the taxi driver to take us to Yangshi Ji. We don’t know how he knew where it was, Chengdu is 3 times the size of Sydney, but somehow he knew and about 30 minutes and 35RMB later he deposited us across the road from the Lazybones Hostel. That would not have happened in any capital city in Australia.

Sunday 29^th April

Nothing planned for today, needed to take it easy for a day. Decided we needed a good walk. Located Wal-Mart on the Chengdu map and started out. Thought we might get some western things like Nescafe and real bread, not the sweet stuff the Chinese make. Our hour long walk took about 90 minutes but it was a nice day and it did us good. Got to Wal-mart and got some western things and also watched a fellow in a small booth, dissect and slice the most beautiful Peking Duck we have ever seen. We had to have one for lunch. Or at least half a duck. Allan put in our order and videoed the entire operation. The butcher then put the meat and carcase into a bag along with a bag that contained the Peking Sauce, shallots and wafer thin bread wrappers. Yum Yum. The half duck and accompaniments cost A$5.90. Lunch at its best, took it back to the hostel and pigged out.

Had a lazy afternoon catching up on emails, blogging, surfing the net etc. At about 5.00pm, wafting up through our open window, were the aromas from the back alley below us.

The locals had started cooking. The smells were many and varied but all great. All fresh produce being cooked on the spot below our window. That’s where we went for dinner that night. For the two of us, two mains meals, some rice and a bottle of local beer cost 23RMB (6RMB = A$1). Allan took a video of the girl cooking and the bloke waitering. He gave the video camera to the waiter so he could take a scene of us at the outdoor dining area. He didn’t have a clue what to do. He looked through the viewfinder, He seen everything that was down the alley-way, his mates inside eating and his feet and the sky, but nothing that we wanted. We missed out on being videoed but it made his day.

Monday 30^th April

We went on a walking tour of Old Chengdu. This was a free activity organised by the Hostel. There were about 15 in the group. They took us through the local markets and back-alleys of old Chengdu. There was a Restaurant that specialised in Rabbit Head (stewed and fried) and we thought we would give that a miss. Bugs was not welcome on our plate.

There was nothing else there we hadn’t seen before however they did take us to a Nunnery for lunch.

The Nuns have a vision of ‘always think of the peasant‘. This was peasant food. This was a special treat. Before we entered the dining hall we collected our bowls and chop sticks, sterilised them in boiling water and then went quietly into the dining room and sat at the bench to quietly wait for the Nuns’ to serve us. Whilst waiting, Monks came and sat. Other Chinese came and sat. Other Nuns came and sat. All with their bowls and chop sticks sitting in front of them. One of the junior Nuns’ started a very calming chant and the other Nuns’ and Monks joined in the ritual.

Then other Nuns brought in very large pots, each containing a separate dish. There was boiled rice with kidney beans, cabbage, spring onions and vegetables, sprouts and vegetable, a soup of some sort and a few other pots that we couldn’t identify. Each diner was to place 5RMB (A$0.90) on the table. The Nuns would then take around a pot at a time and dole out as required. If you didn’t want a particular dish, you waved it away, however, if you received it, you HAD to eat it. The principle being that there should never be waste, if you accept it, you eat it. After everyone had been offered a second helping, the Nuns again started a chant whilst they and the Monks cleaned their bowls and sticks.

We both finished everything we accepted but there were a few, (Chinese) who couldn’t eat one particular dish. It had bean sprouts, preserved ginger, garlic, onion etc. It had a very ‘tart’ ‘acrid’ taste and whilst not one you would ask for seconds, it was edible. The entire ritual was a privilege to be part of. No photo’s were allowed of course. After that our Old City tour took us to a Chinese Tea Shop to be ripped of to the tone of 4RMB for a cup of green tea. (when compared to the 5RMB for the meal) Then back to the Hostel to get passports to go to the station to buy tickets from Lhasa to Beijing. It turned out the sleepers on the train we wanted on Monday 7^th May were booked out so we took sleepers 2 days later which means we will spend an extra 2 days in Lhasa.

Tuesday 1^st May - Panda Day.

Left the hostel in a mini bus at about 7.30am which took about 45mins to get to the Panda Research Station. We were again in a group of about 12 travellers and were escorted into the park. There are only so many photo’s you can take of this beautiful creature. Thankfully digital crap photos can easily be deleted. The Research Station is well set out and the benefits of it are evident right throughout. The animals are obviously well looked after and their insitu and exsitu breeding programmes are well documented. The Chinese go to great lengths to ensure there is no inbreeding in their programs. The photo’s tell the story of how impressive they are..

The Red Panda or Lesser Panda is also researched at the centre. It is a beautiful little Panda that looks like a Fox when it runs.

On our 5th day we were to travel from Chengdu to Lhasa Tibet at 8.50pm. So we had a leisurely day, made sure all the washing was done, blogging up to date and supplies for train trip bought.

The map shows our train route.

Got to the train station at about 7.30pm. We were told to go to the special gate for Train T22 to Lhasa. At the special gate we had to show our train tickets, passports and Tibet Tourist Visa, then through another useless scanner that went off for everyone and then into waiting hall No.1.

It was chockers. Estimated about 1000 people waiting to leave Chengdu. Not all on our train we hoped. Allan went for a walk in search of a toilet.

The one in waiting hall No.1 was out of action as they made way for a MacDonalds ??. So he went up stairs. It turns out there are four waiting halls at Chengdu and they were all full. Waiting Hall No.1 cleared a little when train K2123 to Chongqing was called.` Then it was our turn. T22 to Lhasa was called. There was ‘panda’monium. The line was 6 abreast, they were letting them through the gate one at a time and the natives were getting restless. There were hundred of people who had bought ‘standing’ tickets and wanted to be the first on board to find the best corner to stand in. There was nearly a revolt. Some jumped over people to get through, some jumped the gate. They were all pushing and shoving, it was like a rough mosh pit. (we’ve been told about them)

At one point, there were fisticuffs on the other side of the gate. Apparently someone didn’t get their own way. The queue lessened.

We joined the end of the queue and the line dwindled to an orderly crawl.

We were in Car 3, bunk 10, lower and middle. Settled down for the night and had a reasonable sleep.

Thursday 3^rd May - on train

Woke around 6.0am. Toilet at one end was overflowing and the other end was heading that way. It turned out some people didn’t know how to flush. It settled down after a while. Allan discovered a clean western toilet in the next carriage. Instant noodles, banana and apple the order for the day for brekky and lunch. The people in our cabin didn’t speak English but sign language normally got us by. We had good travelling companions all the way from Chengdu to Lhasa. We met one young lad Zong (Pron Zoong)

who said he had first seen us in the Chengdu Subway the day before and so he attached himself to us for the rest of the trip. He was 21 and tickled pink that he could practice his English on us. We seem to attract this sort of person. He was a likeable young fellow who lives somewhere near Shanghai. He is studying economics and banking and will start work later at the Construction Bank of China. That night we dined in the buffet car. Allan had an excellent fish soup and Wendy had a very nice plate of chicken and nuts. Then to bed and the climb through the mountains via Xining to Lhasa. The train went around and through mountains, over bridges and took its own sweet time having engine changes and the dining car replenished. As we started to climb to altitude was starting to affect most of the passengers. It wasn’t until the next morning (Friday 4^th May) that we climbed to 5072m. Altitude sickness kicks in at about 3000m so we were well and truly up in the rare air. One young lady Zu, in our cabin was so sick she needed the oxygen. She had spent over 12 hours in her top bunk without stirring. We didn’t know she was ill until she came down to go to the toilet. We were both quite lethargic and had strong headaches, especially at the highest level. We arrived into Lhasa train station (3750) at about 4.30pm (20m early) still worse for wear.

Out train trip was a fascinating one. The landscape changed so many times. We seen Yak, pony, deer, sheep, goats, shepherds living in their nomadic tents. Small hamlets, large cities, enormous mountains, green flatlands, barren hills, very large lakes, rivers and streams. It was a magical trip, pity it was in a hard sleeper.

Wednesday 2^nd May.

Photos: Chengdu

fartandbelch — Tue, 1 May 2012 17:20:00 GMT

Zhangjiajie China

fartandbelch — Sun, 29 Apr 2012 07:25:00 GMT

Zhangjiajie -

Wednesday 25^th April 2012 - ANZAC DAY.

Arrived as per schedule on Train 2012 from Nanning at 08:27hrs, took a meter cab to the Home Inn, in Tianmen Road. We were thankfully able to check in straight away and have a shower and do some computer work with emails and blog etc. The LAN worked. We then went downstairs to the foyer where there was a travel agent. The young girl spoke broken English and we were able to book a 2 day tour of the Zhangjiajie National Park. The cost of A$65 each included the tour in an 8 seater van, a tour guide who didn’t speak English, some entry onto a few minor scenic side tours, lunch, dinner, breakfast, lunch and one nights accommodation at what was to be a very run-down Motel.

After that it was time for a Beer to celebrate ANZAC DAY. Unfortunately their isn’t any Pubs in Zhangjiajie, so we bought a couple from the little side-alley shop and took back to our room and drank to the Anzacs.

Thursday 26^th April 2012

We joined two young ladies (which we subsequently named Cuyuan and Chiyuan) and two young men in the 10 seater van for our tour of Zhangjiajie National Park. Along the way we picked up another two young Chinese fellows, so that made it 8 for the tour and one young lady as our guide. One young fellow, whom we subsequently name ‘the Prof’ made himself known to us as he spoke some English. He had been taught English for a number of years through his high school days but hadn’t used it in a couple of years. So we had a two-way beneficial street here, he could practice his English on us and we would know where to go and what to do. He couldn’t be our guide as such as his English was not good enough but he could tell us what the tour guide was saying when we had to do something or go somewhere. In the end, ‘The Prof” treated us like his mother and father and pampered us with all sorts of information he thought we should know.

The tour began with a 45 minute van ride from the Zhangjiajie township to the National Park where we, and umpteen thousand others, lined up to go up the most impressive lift we’ve ever been in. This took us up to the canopy of the mountains. When we got off we were then able to walk through the magnificent scenery and marvel at how it was created. Words cannot describe its beauty and unfortunately the photo’s don’t really do it justice either. You need to be there to fully appreciate it. This is the region where Avatar was made.

At about 2.00pm we were given the option of going down the mountain by cable-car or walking. We did the group thing and made a democratic decision to walk down the mountain. The guide knew better, she went down by the cable car. There we were, 6 young Chinese, all in their early 20s and two old westerners, going to walk down the mountain. We weren’t on the top of the mountain and they said it might take about an hour, maybe a little more. Off we went. The steps were short, only just long enough to put your foot on. There were no hand rails, the steps were sometimes irregular. The trail would go down for 500 steps and then go up 100 steps. At what we thought was about half way, we were starting to hurt. The young girls were getting calf muscle soreness, Wendy was going ok but was also starting to feel the pain in the calves. We continued, after 3 hours of walking down the mountain, all calves and thighs were burning we finally made it. We weren’t advised we would be doing so much walking so we only wore our good walking sandals and this made things a little worse than would have normally been. We can now say we have seen the Zhangjiajie National Park from its best and worst aspects. Got back to our accommodation at about 6.30pm and they shunted us straight into a dining room for a meal of mass produced Chinese tasteless food. There was plenty of variety but the quality was crap. Up to the room for a shower when there was a knock on the door. A young lady from the Hotel wanting to know if we wanted a foot massage for 48RMB ($8). You know the answer to that.

Friday 27^th April.

Up at 6.30am for Chinese breakfast in the run-down hotel included in the cost of the tour. The sight of the dish water noodles, uncooked buns, cabbage, spring onions, tofu, dried something or other and an assortment of items that had been resurrected from last nights leftovers was a bit much for both of us. Allan went in search of some edible street food but came back empty handed. Had an apple.

Then onto the bus and onto the National Park again. Then another winding bus ride to a most scenic place where they dropped us off and said, you can walk 5.5klm to the end of the trail and we will pick you up when you get there. The walk was absolutely beautiful. It meandered along through the forest. Little bridges crossing streams, ginormous outcrops creeping into the sky, wonderful flora and just to spoil it, every 400m was a small resting area where they sell all manner of snack products and crap souvenirs. The pictures tell the story. We loved every moment of it. Wendy was fortunate enough to come across one of the worst toilets in China. It was an open stall where the women just squatted beside each other, did their business (1s and 2s) and walked away. No flushing, no sanitation, no privacy a stench that would outlive religion. (..Kenny)

Our guide Si Goong,

gave us the option of going to another mountain which in her mind looked exactly the same as the one we had just seen or to take us to a different area. We asked could we go to Tianmen Mountain where the have the most magnificent rock structures and mountain walkways. It cost an extra 240RMB each but it was what we came here for.

The trip up to Tianmen Mountain started with the most incredible 7.5klm cable car ride you will ever see. It goes up and down mountains and rises to an altitude of 1297m. We were flabbergasted. So were our Chinese friends.

The young lady we called Cuyuan, was so frightened she covered her eyes most of the way. She only looked down once, that was enough for her.

When we eventually reached the top we then went on a walk around the edge of the mountain on a ‘skywalk’. There is a 60m stretch of the ‘skywalk’ that is glass bottomed. Seven of our group took up the challenge and walked it, one young man we named ‘woose’ did exactly that. He refused to walk on the glass.

At one point on the ‘skywalk’ there is a place where the Chinese write on red pieces of cloth, their hopes and dreams for this life and the next. We did the same and tied it to one of the tree branches. Time will tell if the Gods of China will shine on us.

From there we went back to the cable car and it took us down to about 1/3 the way back down to another cable station to get off. We then jumped on another bus that took us back up the mountains in another direction to Tianmen Mountain itself. This road winds and turns and rises and fall and is mostly only wide enough for one ½ buses but they pass without danger.

We got to the top and took one look at the voluminous steps leading to the Archway that the Russian Air Force flew their MIG jets through a few years ago. We are told there are 999 steps. The Chinese recognise 9 as the biggest number and designed it that way.

We hesitated and said, lets give it a try and see how far we get. We were still a little sore and sorry from the enormous walk down the Zhangjiajie Mountain the day before and didn’t want to push ourselves too hard for fear of injuring ourselves. So we set off. Some of the steps were normal sized steps where a good stride is comfortable, then there were steps that were small and you needed to be very careful where you trod. We started off together but after a little while Allan decide he would meet up with the other lads who where about half way up. He met “The Prof’ at about half way mark where he had decided was far enough. Allan cajoled and embarrassed him into going further.

They got to ¾ up and rested. Then another 20 steps and rested, then another 20, then another 20 and so on until the top. Victory for Allan. A dream come true.

We had both seen a video of this mountain several years ago and put it on our radar to do some day. Today was the day. After Allan had reached the top and rested a little, he looked back and couldn’t see Wendy, he thought she had got to about ½ the way and decided enough was enough. Then, another look and there she was, ¾ the way up and taking it step by step. With some encouragement from ‘the boys’ and Allan. She finally made it to the top. Legs like jelly and face red as a beetroot. What an effort and what a dream realised.

We took a photo in front of something which “The Prof’ told us was something to do with achievement and character building….it certainly was.

Then the trek down. This hurt the thighs a little and caution was needed because of the size of the steps, so it was slowly down to the waiting Cuyuan, Chiyuan and Goong who applauded our efforts. They had decided not to even attempt it. There were very few tourist souvenirs at the bottom so we didn’t bring anything back from that expedition only heaps of photo’s and memories.

Back down to the cable car and down the mountain and then to the train station to meet train K1096 at 18:36 from Zhangjiajie to Dazhou.

We said our goodbyes in our own languages. We treated them like our kids and they treated us like their parents. The girls bought three necklaces at one of the souvenir shops to cement their friendship. A lovely blue necklace that would suit any Cheroke Squaw.

We waited at the station and observed the Chinese waiting room habits again although they were much more civilised this time.

The train arrived and departed on time as most Chinese train do. We were in soft sleeper tonight, so we were looking to a good nights rest.

Photos: Zhangjiajie

fartandbelch — Sat, 28 Apr 2012 16:36:00 GMT

Nanning China

fartandbelch — Wed, 25 Apr 2012 18:17:00 GMT

Monday 23rd April;

Our first full day in Nanning and things were not going well. We needed a LAN connection for the laptop but no matter how much Allan and the Hotel IT bloke tried, it wouldn't work. The Motel didn't have a computer for guest access. We asked were there any Internet Cafe's in the Nanning CBD but of course, Wendy and I seemed to be the only two English speaking people in Nanning, we had no way of finding out. So we walked, and we walked and we walked in search of an Internet Cafe. Final result - no such thing in Nanning.

We have been trying to book a tour out of Chengdu to Lhasa through LazyBones Hostel in Chengdu. Everything was going fine. We sent them our papers, we sent them our itinerary, we agreed on a price, now we have to pay for it. There are three ways. One is bank transfer but this can take up to 5 working days in China, then there is Western Union and then there is PayPal. Thats what we'll do, pay by Paypal. So we did.

All went through, or so we thought. Apparently Paypal took it apon themselves to reverse the transaction because they thought the transaction was suspicious. So we had to try and do it again. No way. Pay Pal had put our account on limitation and we are not able to use it until we jump all sorts of hurdles which is nigh on impossible from here. They want a photo of Wendys passport or drivers license asnd they want a copy of an electricity bill or something similar. WARNING ....don't rely on Paypal if you intend using it overseas.

As it happens, we were able to go into a Bank Of Chiyesterday next day and remit the money direct. The people at the bank were helpful and it was done without much fuss, language barrier aside.

We had also been trying to buy train tickets from Zhangjiajie to Chengdu via Dazhou (pron DartZo) for Saturday. Allan went to the train station to try his best to get his message through but of course the rail staff are the same the world over - if it aint easy - I aint doing it. The only way was to have our train travel requests written out, word by word, in Cantonese. Allan tried in vain to get this message through to the front reception staff at the Dia Jia Jun Gong Hotel. They were 3 young ladies, all about 18 or 19 y/o who tried their best to understand the aging westerner. They even communicated by using Google translater. Without success. However, a supervising young lady (aged about 23) turned up and asked what was going on. She didn't speak English but she was savvy enough to take Allan into a back room, open up the Google translater and work out what it was he actually wanted. After about 45 minutes, they had worked it out. She typed in Cantonese and he typed in English, back and forth until it was clear what was required. She was good enough to hand write it in her language. Allan took the handwritten instructions to the train station, handed it to a lady ticket officer and 4 minutes later, the tickets appeared exactly as we wanted them.

This was typical of all the front office young ladies we have encountered here in China. Give them time and will help you work it out. We were so impressed with the reception staff at Dia Jia Jun Gong Hotel we gave them a very large box of chocolates when we left. They helped us immensely.

Tuesday 24th April, day of departure from Nanning. The weather was hot and the humidity stifling. After a succesful mission to the Bank of China, called in to get some provisions,Haeckel a shower and went to the station to wait for the train trip from Nanning to Zhangjiajie. Train 2012s scheduled running time was from 17:50hrs to 08:27hrs. Sitting in the waiting room brought home to us that the Chinese still haven't learned anything about general sanitation, hygene and general good manners. There are signs everywhere saying 'no smoking, no spitting, no lying on seats, no littering, no this, no that. Each and every sign is ignored. They 'hacked' loadly, they spat, they smoked, they lounged on seats, they gave their luggage a seat and left people to stand, they threw their rubbish all over the place and they were generally unkind to each other. We watched this for 2 1/2 hours waiting from train 2012. We weren't able to get soft sleepers on this trip so we had to accept hard sleepers. The Chinese hard sleeper is a little different to those in Vietnam yet they are the same. Basically it is 6 bunk beds in a cabin. Each bunk is supplied with a sheet, a doona and a pillow. This would have been alright except it wasn't airconditioned except for the windows your were allowed to open about 6 inches. As stated before, the weather was hot and humid. Conditions were stifling. We weren't the only ones to feel the heat, the locals were all sweating profusely as well. Wendy had previously bought some folding fans in Melaka so she handed them to some of the locals who appreciated the gesture. One liked the fan so much, she still has it. The trip was going to be long and uncomfortable. We were both on top bunks, Allan in one cabin and Wendy in the adjacent cabin. The eleictric fan in Wendy's cabin worked, the fan in Allan's cabin was an ornament.

At one stage, Allan was speaking with a young Chinsese girl who had learned English at Yichang University and she became the interpreter for the circle of people in the two cabins. We settled in for the night at about 8.00pm when it got dark and there was nothing to see outside. The heat was bearable as long as you lied still and didn't move and thankfully we were heading to Zhangjiajie which is in the mountains, so at around midnight the weather became more bearable and by morning the doona was needed. We arrived into Zhangjiajie on time at 08:27hrs and looked for a meter cab.