Oh no, where has the time gone! It’s my last
day in Madagascar, and I truly am sad to see this adventure end.
Where did I break off last?
The morning in Ifaty was perfect. We headed
out on a snorkelling trip on one of the pirogue boats owned by two brothers
Tan-tan and Stephen (15,000Ar). The area is a protected marine park and the
reef, the 3rd largest in the world. There is a 2000Ar fee which is
paid directly to the marine guard who paddles around in the lagoon watching
over the day’s activities. Without a doubt, he must have one of the best jobs
in the world.
Our boat was big and sturdy so it was ok for
me to bring my camera J.
The day was beautiful, the water crystal clear, and I now have a perfect tan to
boot. It was my first time snorkelling and I was a little apprehensive when we
first jumped in. Maybe it’s just me, but isn’t it a little odd being able to
breathe with your head under water? “Just calm down Tran...
breathe...1...2...3...” I was well rewarded when I finally let go of the boat
and followed my companions into the open sea. Too bad my camera isn’t
waterproof because words just can’t describe how amazing the reef was. Giant
coral formations that looked like roses, big black urchins, fish of all shapes,
sizes and colours. I even caught a couple of brightly adorned parrot-fish
nibbling at the coral.
We set sail for shore at 10.30am. It’s quite
a skill but the locals can tell the time just by looking at the sun to at least
5-10mins of the actual time (in my and Arno’s experiences).
The brothers are normally fishermen but told
us that when they first started, fishing was the most interesting job around,
but now due to declining fish numbers accompanied by more and more fishermen in
the area, they would much rather work with tourists and take every opportunity
for guide work.
On return we were welcomed by the most
amazing grilled lobster and fish stew lunch on the beach, prepared by friends
of our guides. We’d passed the lobsters for sale in the morning which the
fisherman had literally just brought off the boat, and Tan-tan offered to
prepare the catch. It was amongst the best meals of my life.. and for those who
know me, food is my life!
We had to hurry to catch a taxi brousse to
Tulear in time for our departure to Tana. But being in Madagascar we were both
stranded and saved by the mora-mora (“slow and calm”) time of the island. We
waited almost two hours for a taxi-brousse to pass and still made our ride in
Tulear two and a half hours late. Imagine a place like New York running like
this.
The ride back was nothing special. The first
couple of hours we had to stop every few kilometers, disembark, fill the
radiator, wait for the engine to cool and explode in a burst of steam, refill
the radiator again and then hop back on. Our van was quite new though and the
seats much more comfy than my initial taxi brousse experience to Antsirabe.
Now, I’m back in Tana. Another day through
the markets, some more funky food, a cab ride where the driver stopped to buy
exactly one litre of petrol and watching as the attendant dispensed exactly one
litre by a regular hand pump. This place is fun. I know I’m going to miss it
already. Some places you leave ready to go on to the next adventure, but here I
feel there is still so much to see and do. Two weeks, not enough... but there’s
always next time! And then I’ll be armed with French!
