We spent the last two nights in Zacatecas, the northernmost of Mexico’s famous silver cities and a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is a hilly town of narrow, winding cobbled streets, climbing stairways and pastel houses. The centerpiece of Zacatecas is the pink stone Catedral on the Plaza de Armas. We spent several hours at the Museo Rafael Coronel in the wonderfully restored 16th Century ex-Convento de San Francisco. The main exhibit is Coronel’s collection of nearly 3,000 masks used in traditional dances and rituals, one of the most unique collections we have ever seen.