02.02.2009
I would love to be able to tell tales of five feet of snow, snowball fights, cracking thick ice off the morning water buckets and of tracking wild animal prints in fresh powder snow... alas I have been basking in warm winter sun and having water fights with the kids. As Northern China endures the worst drought in 50 years, I can only presume that the Kumaon Himalaya is suffering the same fate. We haven't had so much as a drop of rain in weeks, the wheat and barley crop is looking dismal and if we don't get rain soon we face crop failure which would create food hardship for many families. The Rhododendrons are flowering a couple of months early, there is scant snow on the mountains and the glaciers melt while watching them...
Scott and I have walked out to Bageshwar to arrange solar replacment goods. This trip has required coordination with the Head Pradan of Khati and a visit to the Tax advocate for tax exemption status. We call this the last 'tango' with bureacracy. The replacement goods require the correct paperwork and now we know the process it has been less of an ordeal. And I have to say that discovering your Tax Advocate - who is responsible for the right signatures and stamps on the appropriate paerwork - is by marriage related to a close friend makes the world of difference!
Bageshwar (Uttarakhand) is 975m above sea level at the confluence of the sacred Saryu and Gompti Rivers. This town of historic temples (most notably the Baghnath Temple was erected by Raja Lachhni Chand in 1450 AD) used to be a trading post for the exchange of produce between the Bhotias of Tibet and the Almora merchants. Today it remains an important service centre for the people of the hills. In Bageshwar we are treated to sunny days, hazy heat afternoons, wandering sadhus, smoke spiralling skywards from funeral pyres at the river confluence, copious cups of tea and all things quintessentially Indian...
Bonnie
PEAK
