We pulled into camp unsure of what to expect but we knew that we'd be seeing wild animals! The entry drive into the park already presented zebra, giraffee, oryx, and 'boks' (springbok, gemsboks, etc.) so we were ecstatic as to what the floodlit watering hole would have in store. Apparently our enthusiasm soon shifted when we'd heard there was a pool at the campsite! After over a week of roasting in the hot, desert sun and having dust and sand constantly stuck to your body it was a sweet relief to jump into the large pool. However, once we were all satiated and completed our group "chores" (yes we actually had chores while on this overland) we rushed to the waterhole.
We were staying at Camp Okaukuejo, one of 3 within the Etosha park. These campgrounds are fortified to prevent the animals from entering but many have a viewable waterhole to watch animals. The watering hole is outside the campground (inside the park grounds) but semi-lit up by floodlights and the people are semi-protected by a waisthigh game-proof fence. Watching these animals feels quite surreal as tradition would have me think I was in a zoo. I had to constantly remind myself that they (the animals) were the ones in the 'wild' while I was the one in a 'cage', for my own protection.
Now days in the desert are too hot for any activity beyond sleeping but as the sun sets and temperatures cool the excitement really begins. It's during the night that the animals being to congregate around the manmade watering hole and, honestly, it's a strange sensation to see them interact with one another. I was expecting to see them taking turns: first the elephants, then the rhino, followed by the giraffee, etc. but it's more of a hodgepodge. Each species mixed and mingled among the next yet keeping a weary eye on its neighbor. My favorite was watching the giraffee take drinks. Their poor bodies, too long and gangily to reach the water, requires them to spread out their front legs (as if doing a split) and then bending down their long, long necks to lapse up the water. The younger ones wibble and wobble thier way down, looking as if they'll topple over any minute while the elders do it with such grace and finesse they could be a ballerina. The other animal that caught my fancy were the elephants. They march in their large herds with the babies safely tucked between the larger ones. I couldn't help but reminisce on films from my childhood like 'The Jungle Book' and 'Dumbo'. They really do appear to be swaying and walking to their own rhythm. Once they've gathered at the watering hole they really begin to interact with one another. I don't know if it's just males or females, or between family members or different families but begin to headbutt one another. At first it's gentle but eventually they end in a headlock involving interlocking tusks and trunks. Plus the sound they make is unforgettable. I can only describe it as a dry, raspy sound. It's as if you pulled two tree trunks out of the ground (bark and all) and began to rub them against one another! In addition to this they're ear flapping and creating HUGE dust clouds. They every once in awhile you'll hear an earsplitting shriek as one of them toots his 'horn'. Now that'll raise the hair on your arms!
As the night goes by you expect the number of animals to decline but they just go in rotation. When one heard leaves they next replaces it. Nights at the Etosha watering hole were unforgettable as we saw elephants, giraffee, lions, and even the elusive black rhino.
CAMP OKAUKUEJO
