Where In The World

Blessings

whereintheworld — Thu, 8 Nov 2007 19:35:00 GMT

Previously Reb was struck by intense diahorrea, or the Ring of Fire as Mark likes to call it, which forced us to stay in the camp of Yak Kharka instead of Letdar. Normally this early stop wouldn't be problematic but we wanted to spend the following night at High Camp which is the last camp/'civilization' before going over the Thorung La Pass. From there, it should take approximately two and a half hours to get to the pass plus an additional four hours to arrive at the village on the other side. That's about 6-7 hours of hiking through snow and going over the highest point on 'the Circuit'.

Now the main concern with heading to High Camp is that EVERYONE wants to stay the night there before crossing the pass but there is a limited number of beds and it becomes a race amongst hikers as to who will have the fortunes of staying there. So, with Reb's diahorrea we were at a bit of a disadvantage, not only because of her health (poor Rebels) but our starting line for 'the race' began in Yak Kharka instead of Letdar.

The next morning we had a bit of a late start but we wanted Reb to feel fully rested. Even though our bodies are strong and toned after our weeks of climbing in altitude and hiking, it's still a challenge when you have a weak stomach. We decided to take our time to High Camp but with the worry of not getting a bed in the back of our minds, Mark decided to run ahead (good thing he's so fit) and try to reserve us a room. We were nearly to Thorung Phedi, which is the camp prior to High Camp, had just passed the hazardous areas of landslides, when we saw Mark approaching. Apparently we were too late and rumors of High Camp being full had trickled down the trail. Though disappointed I still saw the blessings: 1). we didnt' have to hike the intimidating switchback to find it full and then turn around and go back down 2). we managed to get a room in T. Phedi but barely and I felt sorrow for all those behind us who would either sleep on the tables, floor, and freeze that night or return from where they came. We were also fortunate that we had finished the day's hike by lunchtime, a first for us! This should give us plenty of time to rest, especially Reb, before tomorrow's infamous hike over the Thorung La.

Glimpse of Heaven

whereintheworld — Mon, 5 Nov 2007 18:50:00 GMT

Our 'rest day' began with us waking at 0500, enjoying a hearty breakfast, and heading off to conquer the climb to Ice Lake at an all time high elevation of 4600m (or 15,091 ft). When preparing to climb at high elevation, like the Thorung La Pass at 5,416m (nearly 18,000 ft), it is essential for you to acclimatize yourself to the elevation. This is done by hiking at a hight altitude and then the very same day, descend and sleep at a lower altitude. As luck would have it, Ice Lake is the perfect opportunity to do this which translates to a rest day full of enduring steep climbs, low oxygen, and possible snowfall. "Fun" was clearly the first word to come to my mind, quickly followed by "relaxing" (that's clearly sarcasm).

While in Braga we were staying at a wonderful guesthouse where the owner was kind enough to walk us out to the mountain base and point us off into the proper direction. Fortunately, we didn't have to bring our enormous packs just to fill one with what we needed for lunch and to stay hydrated. Of course, Mark brought his pack because he's Mark and loves a good workout while Reb and I shared a pack which we'd also packed with cameras and extra cold weather gear as it looked like it was about to snow. We'd started off in conditions that were dark and gloomy with giant heavy clouds covering all the mountain peaks. Just by looking at them you could tell it was snowing where we were going. We expected it to take us four hours to get to the top and, with trying to stay optimistic, by the time we reached the top the storm would have blown over. About three hours into it we were beginning to wonder if we'd ever make it to the top. We'd get to the top of a peak, hoping to see the lake on the other side, only to be disappointed with another higher and steeper peak to conquer. Even though Reb and I were sharing the pack load we could still feel its heavy burden and yet, oddly enough, Reb felt she did better with the pack on. Combine that with the lack of oxygen and we were moving along at a snails pace or so it seemed. About our fourth peak up we thought, "surely this must be the last one" only to be met with a sign 'Ice Lake' with an arrow pointing up. Carved into the sign was a message so that the whole thing read: 'Ice Lake'...still a fucking long ways away. The thought of quitting, though slightly tempting, was never an option for us. What else could we do but push onward. Once near the top, of yet another peak, we felt the lake had to be only meters away. However, we weren't sure which path to take as there were multiple options. Eventually we made a choice but in time began to doubt ourselves. I decided that rather than stick to the trail and go around the mountain top, I would go straight up to the peak and look over. Of couse when I got to the top there was a downhill and then another peak to climb. Determined to see how far we had to go, I hiked up that one too and was rewarded with a glimpse of the lake! However, not wanting to waste all of my climbing efforts, I descended by to the peak which Reb and Mark were waiting below and tried to shout at them to continue along the path. Obviously unable to understand or hear me I had to jump up and down and make franctic motions with my arms in the direction they needed to head. Once we'd reached the lake, which was adorned with colourful prayer flags and a frozen bench coated with ice and snow, we went camera crazy.

The view at that altitude was impressive. I didn't even want to blink, just to take in the beauty and wonder and to hopefully burn the vision into my mind forever! We then enjoyed our picnic lunch, took a small nap or kip, and prepared for our descent. No surprise we lost our way but fortunately when going down there's only one directin to go...down. However, staying on the marked trail is much easier than making your own. We spent the last hour bracing ourselves amongst the rocks, loosing our footing, laughing (Reb & I) at Mark (of course), and the last few hundred meters we were traversing down the steep path formed from the flood waters while dodging yaks, goats, adn the occassional falling rock. It was just before dark when we rolled up to our guesthouse to be comfort by a warm, filling dinner and the solace of bed. This is one rest day that pushed and challenged me but also gave me the greatest sense of accomplishment and reward. Maybe they should all be like this?

Call of the Wild

whereintheworld — Sun, 4 Nov 2007 18:09:00 GMT

Today, day 10, we begin with us emerging from our dust covered room (I say dust covered because everything in the town of Gyaru is covered in a think layer of fine dirt or dust, including the people!) and invigorated by the view in front of us. We quickly prepared ourselves for the day's trek and just in time because as we were preparing to leave a large number of Westerners had arrived and they too were following what is known as the High Route. It was also as we were leaving that an avalanche occurred on our majestic mountain. Fortunately, no villages are near or beneath it but it was still with marvel, respect, and an ounce of fear that we watched nature in motion.

Since today's trek was to be an easy one, our threesome decided to split with Mark doing his macho-man pace (he hates when Reb and I say that) and Rebels and I doing a leisurely stroll. It was at lunchtime that the two of us discovered Jurassic Park! We could hear the call of dinosaurs all around us and we were then on the hunt to find them. It turns out that our dinosaurs were actually the famous yaks of Nepal and our trail has taken us into the higher elevations which they live in. We also discovered that their cries don't normally sound like dinosaurs. We just happened to be surrounded by huge, bare rock walls and their calls reverberate off the mountain walls and echo in your ears. Of course, in typical Reb and Sharon fashion we began to entertain ourselves by doing our best dinosaur impressions: her's was more of a T-Rex while mine was a Pterodactyl...I wonder if any near-by Yeti's heard us?

Things were going very smoothly for us. In fact, it was so smooth we were almost smug but that was short lived. After a minor detour and confussion in the nearby village we came to a fork in the road and, of course, when you're debating which route to take there wouldn't be a single person about. Finally an executive decision was made and we decided on the route to the right. Our reasoning was that with the high road we might be able to spot Braga in the distance. Plus, in the off chance that we had had taken the wrong path it would be much more simple to descend to the lower road rather than have to hike back up to the higher one. As it turns out, it didn't matter because both roads came back together again and once in Braga we were reunited with Mark. Upon our arrival he'd asked if we'd had any complications and, fairly proud of our thought process and strategies, we'd told him of our fork-in-the-road and our plan. Little did we know that when Mark had approached the fork he knew we'd be confused (as he had the map) and so in the sign (which has been chipped away so that it's completely blank and completely useless) he had carved both Reb's initials along with an arrow pointing us in the proper direction. Oh well, we'd enjoyed a comfortable pace, didn't get lost, and had a perfect day with the dinosaurs. Plus, tomorrow's a rest day or so I'd thought!?!

Awe & Wonder

whereintheworld — Sat, 3 Nov 2007 16:55:00 GMT

In just another day or two we will finally have our day of rest, my sore and achy muscles are screaming YAY! The past few days have been a constant uphill battle with no slack or rest for the wreary. Day 7 proved to be the most challenging, of course that would be excluding our hellish day of hiking in Baglung Pani (Day 3). Our seventh day had us hiking from Tal to Chame, over a thousand meter ascent and full of steep downhills, followed by more uphills. This constant up and down motion is termed a “Nepalese Flat”, something I became to loath as there’s nothing flat about it.

After a week of inclines we were rewarded with the most spectacular scenery. The first part of the day was filled with sights that, surprisingly, were reminiscient of the west coast of America: rivers flowing through mountainous valley passages, gorgeous evergreen trees rolling over the landscape and giving off the aroma of Christmas, and everything underneath a brilliant blue sky. I easily lost myself and my thoughts but quickly was reminded of my location when the tinkering of donkey bells was fast approaching. Normally the tinkering of bells would be a soothing sound to hear but when you're trekking on the circuit it's the warning that a trekkers archnemesis is nearby...the Donkey. Now I am a fan and lover of all creatures but these guys are truely the enemy. Here are some reasons why:

1. If they are approaching you head-on, it's imperative for you jump to the side closest to the cliff wall. A failure to do so could result in you being knocked over the edge, it happens. Sometimes, these guys are really hauling ass (HA!..Ass, no pun intended but I guess I would too if I had someone spanking me with a whip all the time). If you hear them coming from behind, you suddenly have this urge to quicken the pace no matter how tired you are, it's now a race between you and the donkey!

2. Another thing is that they block your path and it always seems to happen when you're trying to hike uphill. Just when you've got a good momentum going it is ruined by a stockade of donkeys.

3. When you do get stuck behind them, it's near impossible to pass them. There's always the danger of being defacated on, either as you walk behind them or pass them. And no one likes to hike all day wearing donkey dung on their clothes. Plus, the trail is comparable to a mine field but full of donkey dung and stinky farts! Stepping in fresh poop is a shame cause not only do you smell but it can make the stepping a bit slippery.

Later in the day, we received our first glimpse of the magnificent peaks of the Annapurnas and were ecstatic to reach our resting point after 9 hours of hiking!

From that point on, everyday has been filled with awe and wonder as we hike alongside the most magnificent mountains. The day's become more effortless as the views become more astonishing. In Upper Pisang, our hotel view directly faced the mountain and the following night, in Ghyaru, we were even closer to reaching the heavens. Our hike to Ghyaru was the steepest incline in the shortest distance. However, the never-ending switchback was enjoyable as each bend was rewarded with a breathtaking view. Another bonus is that once we arrived there we found ourselves to be the only Westerners, a rarity on 'the Circuit'! Also the architecture was absolutely fascinating, each house is built on top of the one below it. Therefore, the front 'yard' used to store goats or crops is actually the roof of your neighbor. Fortunately each home is adorned with a ladder on the outside and we were able to climb upward to our lodging (of course our room would have to be the highest one because we are cursed with the constant battle of uphill). Not too bad but when you and your pack begin to climb and you hear a snapping sound along with a waverly sway, you begin to pray that the little bits of firewood that have been tied together to form the ladder will continue to support you! Plus, it's just another wonderful challenge to add to the midnight potty break. I gues all are worthy prices to pay when you get to look out and the first glimpse of the day begins with a majestic mountain. What better way to energize us for our trek to Braga, where we get our day of rest.

Big Girls Don't Cry

whereintheworld — Wed, 31 Oct 2007 12:26:00 GMT

But They Have Communist Boyfriends?

Today I learned the hard way that sleep is essential for trekking. For unknown reasons the past three nights have been sleepless, leaving me to struggle behind the others. I felt as though I couldn't move my body much less my feet and as they were dragging along I managed to fall (yet again) but this time I really took a tumble. Mark did his best to catch me but to no avail, I still crashed to the ground. The end result was a sorely rolled ankle, a bruised, battered, and bleeding shin, along with a shattered hematite ring with the cuts on my finger to prove it. I struggled to pick myself up but was embarrassed and in pain. Of course the next stretch would be another uphill battle, it's a good thing I'm stubborn, because I managed to hobble through it. I was so upset at myself and exhausted that I couldn't help but cry. I tried to do it silently to spare myself more embarrassment but that's hard to do on a popular trail especially when you're constantly blowing your snotty, runny nose into your skirt and can barely see from swollen eyes and fat tears rolling down your face. Of course we continued on but it was mentally frusterating to feel like the weakest link.

Reb and I also learned another lesson...."Hysterical laughter wastes your energy", a quote from Mark. Apparently nearly everyday, around 4 or 5 in the evening, Reb and I go into hysterics. It takes absolutely nothing to put us into this phase, usually a look or saying from Mark will do the trick. However, by the end of our trek we only had to make eye contact and would be laughing so hard our abs and sides were in pain, tears came rolling from our eyes, and we were doubled over. Today was the first of our daily regime. We were hiking (yep you guess it) uphill and were really getting exhausted. Halfway up the hill we started to laugh uncontrollably. It was one of those laughters that comes from so deep within you that no sound emits and we couldn't move another step. I honestly believe it's because we were so tired and stressed with the hopes that each mountain we climbed would be the last, only to be let down by another mountain to overcome. For us the hysterics were a great way to relieve our stress but unfortunately an energy drainer. We eventually gathered ourselves together and made it to the top but only to be greeted by a slightly frusterated Mark. He became quite the parental figure as he told us laughing only wastes our energy which we could be using for hiking. After our reprimand we were then separated. Reb in the front, me in the back, and Mark in the middle. Our new line-up worked but lasted only briefly. Eventually Mark skipped way ahead of us and left me and Reb giggling (no hysterics) in the background.

We eventually caught up to him but that's because he was stopped by the Maoists. I'm not certain how you would properly describe them and I won't get into details but they represent the Communist Party of Nepal and have been waging a "People's War". There has been Maoist violence and warnings issued that, "the assuming traveller can be caught between the crossfire of the contending armies." Fortunately (or unfortunately) the most common form of interaction with tourists (usually trekkers) and the Maoists is from the extortion of "donations". It was at one of these "donation" stops, before Tal, that we met up with Mark plus the Maoist. The going charge rate was grand total of 2,000 per day, an amount of money I couldn't afford to part with unless absolutely necessary. Upon our arrival I began to interact with some of the 'soldiers' or commerads as they refer to themselves. Fortunately they didn't bear any arms and most of them were under the age of twenty. The leader asked if I was Nepalese and being me I replied with an honest No. I did tell him I was a student (a lie I know but my budget is representative of one) with the hope that he would show us lenancy and it appeared as if he was when a large group appeared. They too began to protest the charges and in the end the leader waived everyone through but with the warning that we will again encounter the Maoist and be charged four times what we would pay at this check post. Since we did not have receipts (yes they give you a receipt for the extortion, ummmm I mean donation). As Reb and I were climbing the seemingly large and last hill before reaching Tal, I noticed behind us that the red communist flay was rapidly approaching us! Great, I thought, they've changed their minds and are after our money. Run Reb Run came out of my mouth and we quickly scampered as best we could to the top. However, we were no match and they quickly caught up with us. To our surprise they had just closed shop and were on their way home which jsut so happened to be in Tal. It was funny to think that taking money from travellers was another ordinary day in the office. Once at the top they asked for a photo so we willingly obliged. Comrad Susan, Comrad Milan, and Comrad Roshan and me holding the flay. In the end I walked with them down into town and we tried conversing me in broken English. There were a few Yes and No's and lots of Ummm's and What. The conversation ended with a question that I thought was "We are friends?" which I naturally replied with a Yes. Smiles were exchanged all around and I was then gifted with a small cut out photo of my new friend plus his phone number. I only later learned that the word I thought to mean friend is actually girlfriend! I can now say that I have a seventeen year old 'boyfriend' who's involved in the military unit of the communist party...I wonder how many trekkers can claim that one?

Rat Race

whereintheworld — Tue, 30 Oct 2007 19:12:00 GMT

It was only our first day and we could already see a difference between the paths we'd just traveled and those that lay ahead of us. While eating breakfast in Bhule Bhule we'd already lost count of the numerous trekkers that passed us with their porters and the clankety-clank of their hiking poles hitting the hard ground. Even the Nepalese were different to a degree. No longer were we greeted by the smiling tan faces filled with wonder and amusement. Instead all the "Namaste's" were now followed with "got pen?", "got chocolate?", "got Rupees?". Fortunately we were prepared for this bantering and our reply was always "No". Eventually theh crowds thinned out was the trail progressed but the beginning is like a giant rat race with people leaving in hordes. That's one of the benefits of getting a late start, most eveyone has already left, leaving you to enjoy the scenery undisturbed. We were fortunate in that we never had problems with finding accommodation, even though we were nearly the last to arrive. Another perk of the trek is that even though you're travelling solo or in a small group, you quickly befriend those on the trail. Once everyone establishes their pace you're practically with the same people the entire trek, you see them at lunch stops and along the trail. Mealtimes are often spent eating together around a table talking about the days adventures and the curiosity of what lay ahead. We met many wonderful souls on the circuit (like Uolevi and KB) and though there is a lack of technology and gadgets while trekking the lines of communication are mind blowing. Days have passed since you've seen so-and-so but all you needed to do was ask a fellow trekker. In no time, you would have the latest update on that person: where he was now, what excitement may have occurred, where his next planned destination was. You could probably even find out what he or she ate for their last meal but I never bothered to ask about that one. With our new found buddies we found more to sing and joke about and so the journey continued.

Unmarked Trails

whereintheworld — Sun, 28 Oct 2007 20:37:00 GMT

Our goal was Baglung Pani, at an elevation of 1595 meters, a minor speck in comparison to what lay ahead once we reached the official start of 'the Circuit'. However, we would still be climbing over 1,000 meters, no easy feat when you don't know where you're going!

We had a good start, only 30 minutes later than our desired departure time. Plus we made sure to ask directions from the guesthouse before leaving hoping it would prevent us from getting lost and wasting valuable time. The directions were simple: Follow the path along the river and you will come to a bridge on your right which we were to cross. We made it to 'follow the path along the river' and only 40 minutes in were already lost! Our wonderful path just disappeared into the river itself and so we gazed around our surroundings in an attempt to figure out where to go. There we were, on a rocky beach with high cliffs to our left and a deep, fast flowing river on our right. After a quick surveillance we concluded what we thought was a path over the cliff which meant more rock climbing, a repeat of yesterday. So we scrambled up the eroded cliff edge when at the top we began to realize that this was definately not the path. For me, the first clue was the small gathering of children below. What began as one child quickly multiplied into a small mass with lots of finger pointing and hollers. In the distance, we could even see the adults coming out of their homes and standing on their balconies. Without a doubt we were the entertainment and, probably, the highlight of the week. We eventually turned around and made our way down the cliff. Again, not an easy task with 30lbs on your back but this time I was prepared and wore my trainers.

Our fans continued to follow us, even though we were on the other side of the river, with the wonders of what we'd do next. Eventually one of the older kids made his way over the river by wading through waters that came up to his stomach. With newly learned Nepalese I asked which way to Nalma, not our final destination but the closest 'large' village en route. Without uttering a word he kindly led us along the path which required more rock climbing, a quick zig-zag through a small rice field, and eventually back down the steep gradient. None of which we would have ever found on our own. Then like a dream he quietly left us and waded back across the river. We barely had time to express our thanks.

With our new found confidence and now visible trail we were off towards Baglung Pani. Soon afterwards, we came across our second obstacle...the bridge of nothing. We'd heard that we'd have to overcome a dodgy bridge but this wasn't what we'd imagined. This 'bridge' was comprised of two tree trunks of varying size laid across a wide flowing river. With the risk of drowning prevalent I was prepared for an emergency evacuation from my pack by crossing without my waistbelt fastened. To make it even more challenging the trunks were set apart so we had to waddle our way across and though we were hypnotized by the rushing water beneath us, we all safely made it to the other side. When we reached the top of the mountain we turned to enjoy the view and relish in our accomoplishment. We could see our ramshackle of a bridge and much to our chagrin and surprise there was an elderly man crossing but his methodology was by doing it on all fours!

The path we were now following was leading us up and up and then down and down. We then came upon a homestead and happened to ask which way to Nalma. To our horror they pointed us in the exact directin we'd just come from, we were lost again! The only option was to retrace our steps back up the mountain we'd just descended and so we did. We eventually found the proper path which, of course, led us up more and ran into our Finnish friend Uolevi and his guide KB. By this point we'd already been 'on the road' for 4 hours and we were very sad to learn that they'd left 2 hours AFTER us. We'd wasted two hours and plenty of energy on all of our 'detours'. That also meant we had a long, long way to go. In the end the five of us grouped together and made our way to Baglung Pani. We weren't even discouraged by the inn keeper in Nalma who, conveniently, told us we wouldn't make it in time and suggested we stay in his lodge. We pushed through the endless uphill battle and arrived at dusk to our desired destination. Yes...we actually made it to our planned destination, Hallelujah! It became one of the longest days of our entire trek but well worth the push and struggle, all uphill. The family of the lodge we stayed in was wonderful. We were invited into the kitchen where we all sat around and chatted. We eventually ended the night, playing and singing traditional songs and even though our muscles ached, Reb and Mark got up and did some Nepalese dancing. That night we laid in bed, with tummies full of tasty home cooked Dahl Bhat, exhausted from the day's adventures, and looking forwared to the downhill awaiting us. The only misfortune was that we were leaving behind our wonderful world of mystery, where getting lost was part of the game and being the only Westerners a delight. Tomorrow we'd be arriving in Bhule Bhule, the beginning of the official Annapurna Circuit Trek.

And They All Fall Down

whereintheworld — Sat, 27 Oct 2007 20:29:00 GMT

Or At Least Sharon Does....

A fresh new start and today's goal was to reach yesterday's desired destination (I was slightly afraid to see how many inches it was between start and finsih).

Although it's October the temperature in the valley is very tropical and the scenery lush and green, filled with rice plantations, banana plants, and the maddening cry of locusts. Just the act of putting your pack on causes a steady stream of sweat to drip from every pore in your body but once you get into the rhythm trekking is actually quite relaxing and pleasant. That morning we occupied ourselves by learning Nepalese, starting easy with numbers 1-10 and eventually making our way to phrases. We, of course, got lost along the way but this time it was in a giant plateau full of rice fields. It was only natural that as we made our way down the steep, muddy path that I, in my Reef flip-flops, would find myself sliding down the hillside and covered with mud, only to hear the echoes of laughter coming behind from Mark and Reb. In all honesty, a rice field is a true labyrinth as we meandered and weaved our way through. Fortunately for us the Nepalese are genuine and kind and everytime we made a wrong turn on the narrow, narrow path they would kindly shout Nepalese (indiscernible to us) while franctically waving their arms and pointing us in the proper direction. And naturally, I would be the one to fall off the 2 foot high, narrow, narrow, path into the rice crops. But, this time the sounds of laughter were emanating not only from Mark and Reb but all around me from the Nepalese field workers.

As we finished crossing our first bridge on the journey, our numbers increased by two. To join us were two local boys from the village of Shyauly Bazaar and, yet again, we were told we wouldn't make it to our desired destination. We decided that we'd try and follow the boys for as long as possible. Good thing too because what started as an easy trail along the river quickly escalated to rock climbing! Our simple path disappeared into the river and we had no choice but to climb up and over the cliff edge. Normally I would be delighted and find the task to be simple. However climbing with a 14kg pack in wet, slippery flip-flops is a whole nother story. I literally had to plaster myself against the rocks to counterbalance the weight of my pack and its best friend, gravity. The real challenge was the footing and handholds because though my pack is more skinny than wide, it is also long so it extends above my head and below my butt. This meant when we were going up I couldn't tilt my head back so I was unable to see where to put my hands. I simply felt around blindly and pulled myself up/lowered myself down on the decline. Eventually it was too dangerous to use my slippery sandals so I had to do the whole thing barefoot...ouch! Needless to say I made it to the bottom, cuts and scratches but nothing that wouldn't heal. As darkness began we succumbed to the notion that we would have to find a place to sleep and soon. Thus, we continued on with the locals and they showed us the one and only guest house in their village. As it turned out the guest house was also the home of the Himalaya Rescue Dog Society and the kind German man running it had loads of rescue stories for us. Exactly what you want to hear prior to visiting the same locations where many have perished and never been found! In the end, I guess it was good as we'll definately be more on edge while going over the pass.

How Long to Travel an Inch?

whereintheworld — Fri, 26 Oct 2007 21:44:00 GMT

An early morning rise and a local bus to Begnas Tal...now what?! We weren't sure either. After a minor "detour", the first of many I'm sure, we began to follow a gravel road which we hoped would take us to our first stop...Sheklung. What we didn't know is that the less than one inch on the map between Begnas Tal and Sheklung would take us over SEVEN hours...Holy Cow! We also learned that the Nepalese time scale is completely different from our own. When asked how far we had to go we received a variety of responses: 25 minutes, 2 hours, and a long, long way. I can't believe our first day in and we're already a day behind! We did have some adventures along the way though....Mark seemed to attract leeches everytime we stopped, we rode on a Ping which is a four-seater Nepalese swing resembling a wooden Ferris Wheel and propelled by man power, and we were popular with the overloaded buses that whizzed by (and nearly flattened us) as passengers waved and shouted enthusiastically.

Six hours into the trip we were climbing a very steep incline still on the hunt for Sheklung and our lunch break. Thinking we would have to return down the same path the idea was mentioned to hide and stash our heavy packs. We finally found a good hiding spot and tree to attach them to but while in the process I began to feel sharp stings on my legs. My first thought was I was brushing up against a thorn tree but I couldn't find any of the bushes. Finally I saw what it was....GIANT ANTS (I think I've seen them on the Discovery Channel, so large they can destroy a rainforest and carry off small babies or something like that)! They were crawling all over me and biting...ouch! My initial reaction was to start flailing around, trying to knock them all off. I think at first Mark was really confused with my new, strange dance but he quickly came to my aid and then, even more quickly, untied all the gear and we jumped back onto the safety of the trail.

Eventually we reached the top (or what we thought was the top) only to find that we had a ridiculous amount of steps to climb. Figuring we were close to the end we all sucked it up and marched our way upwards and onwards. However, the steps were endless and exhaustion took its toll. It was finally decided that Reb and I would watch the gear while Mark, chivalrously, continued on with the hopes to find accommodation. It seemed like ages before he returned and with disheartening news that the stairs went on for infinity. With heavy hearts we had to turn around and re-trace our steps. Once at the bottom of the stairs we were drained and starving but fortune stepped in and saved us!

A kind Nepalese man owned the 'restaurant' we were standing near and asked if we wanted some food...we heartily said "YES!". Not only did he provide us with tasty meals but he and his brother moved out of their bedroom, changed the sheets, and allowed us to sleep in their beds! We also had a mini-introductury lesson on the Nepalese language, focusing mainly on numbers and important phrases like: I am lost, Where is...., What is your name..., my name is..., How much, etc. After dinner we took a bath, Nepalese style: squatting around a bucket of cold water. The next morning we paid our bill for the wonderful services (lunch, dinner, breakfast, plus room a total of 149 Rupees or $2.50 USD!) As we loaded up our gear, said farewell to our saviour and continued on with our journey we could only hope that the next inch on the map wouldn't take us nearly as long!

Good-Bye Comforts, Hello Pain!

whereintheworld — Mon, 22 Oct 2007 21:26:00 GMT

After a minor detour to Hong Kong...a short stint in Delhi...and 48 hours (yes 2 days) of continual travel on Indian and Nepalese public transportation...I finally arrived in Kathmandu, Nepal!

You see, I'd been riding the local bus for the past 8 hours from the border town to Kathmandu. Aboard I was the only Westerner and was dropped off on a desolate street, in pitch black darkness, at 0230 in the morning. I only knew to disembark because when the bus stopped they pointed at me, shouted some words, and tossed my luggage off the bus. So there I was standing with my enormous backpacker bag and heaps of other items (I can't seem to ever lighten my load) and completely overburdened to walk any great distance. I had little money, no map, no guide book, and no plan (I'm what you call a spontaneous travler) but conveniently there were a few cabbies waiting for those latenight/early travelers to be dumped out in no man's land and, for an outrageous price, be taken to their accommodation, which by the way I had none (I'm sure about now my family is stressing at my wonderful travel techniques but it really does work best for me). Luckily I had them take me to the only place I'd heard of, The Kathmandu Guest House and though everywhere else was closed they have 24-hour security guards who opened the gates and allowed me to rest in the lobby, for the next 8 hours.

It was peak season and I was fortunate enough to get a room at the Guest House. Once settled I rested and then began planning the next stint of my trip. I'd come to Nepal with the hopes of trekking and after researching my options, figured my best bet would be the Annapurna Circuit - a 300km loop which takes you to an altitude of 5,416 m (17,768 ft) and an average of 15 days to complete but I was planning on taking a bit longer to enjoy the sights. I was prepared to do the trek solo but was much happier when I'd soon befriended Mark and Reb, both would become my future trekking partners. We spent a few days in Kathmandu, preparing ourselves for the trek and then made our way to Pokhara where we'd obtain our trekking permit and finish any last minute tasks before taking off.

Since we'd be hiking over ENORMOUS mountains at heights which aren't even imaginable in Florida and without the aid of porters (people who carry your loads for you). I really had to lighten my load. It was going to be down to essentials only! So I packed the following:

1 x tshirt
1x tank top
2 x pants
1 x long sleeve top
3 x pairs of socks
1 x hike boots
1 x flip flops
many underwear (come on...good hygiene is essential and my grandma always told me it's always good to have on a clean pair of underwear esp if I may end up in the hospital)
2 x thermal pullovers
1 x set of thermal underwear
1 x long skirt (essential for travel in hot weather as women don't show their legs in Nepal or wear pants)
1 x wool hat for warmth
1 x gloves
1 x first aid kit because Reb's is non-existent and Mark's is so-so
1 x down jacket
1 x wind breaker
1 x warm jacket (lots of jackets I know but I'm from FL...it never snow there!)
1 x book
1 x water bottle with drinking apparatus
1 x bottle of iodine tablets
1 x bag filled with chocolates and goodies (no arguing here...these were ESSENTIAL esp since things are much more expensive and non-existent at the mtn pass)
1 x silk sleep liner
1 x down sleeping bag
1 x small bag of toiletries (soap, shampoo, toothpaste, toothbrush) which was shared by me and Reb
1 x torch/headlamp

I may be missing a thing or two but that's the bulk of it.

In the end my pack ending being the heaviest (~14 kg) even though I was the smallest and lightest but I used everything I brought and wasn't reluctant on anything, especially the cold weather gear. A Florida girl can never be too warm in snowy conditions!

Gallery: Trekking the Annapurna Circuit

whereintheworld — Sat, 20 Oct 2007 13:07:00 GMT

The Smoke that Thunders (Vic Falls)

whereintheworld — Wed, 26 Sep 2007 17:16:00 GMT

We arrived in Zambia with both excitement and sadness. Though it is home to Africa's famous Victoria Falls, a spectacular sight known around the world, it was also the final destination of our overland tour.

As soon as we entered Zambia our first goal was to visit Victoria Falls. Unfortunately, we were visiting in September which is the dry season and there wasn't much to see. We did catch a glimpse of them from the park but supposedly the view is much more spectacular from the Zimbabwe side (and we were in Zambia). However, travel to Zimbabwe at this moment is rather difficult due to the fuel and food shortage, inflation, and government 'issues'. Though it's not impossible, just arduous, and some of my fellow Acacia team members made their way across the border. Others involved themselves with whitewater rafting, elephant rides, lion encounters, and microlight flights. However, since I'm on a budget I skipped out on all of the above but still had a fun time exploring the town and enjoying the company of my friends.

That evening after setting up our tents for the last time, we prepared for our sunset river cruise or more popularly called 'The Booze Cruise'. For one price we cruised down the river, enjoyed a buffet dinner, and more importantly relished in the all-you-can-drink bar. Once we'd reached shore the partying continued at the camp's bar and we finished the night with more drinking and dancing. I have to mention this, at the risk of being killed by Sarah, but she has dance skills like no other...literally. On the dance floor she begins to mimic what we have dubbed the 'White Rhino' (obviously a result of mixing Africa with alcohol). If she sees you she will 'charge', coming at you with horns formed with her fingers, a good few swipes of the feet (as if preparing for attack), and a running lurch at full speed! No one was safe from 'the rhino' but it did have a favorite...poor Duncan! He took it well and it was all something we could laugh at in the morning.

Our last few days together were fun. Filled with adventure activities (though most of mine were spent at the market assisting people, not exactly fun but definitely adventurous and daring. If you've ever been in a 3rd world market then you will know what I mean and have sympathy for me going 4 times in one day!) and lots of laughter and photos. I will never forget the amazing time I had will these people and I can only hope they too will never forget. We've traveled (daily) for three weeks crammed on a non-A/C bus through deserts, dust storms, & sweltering heat. Never did we argue and rarely did we separate, we were the best of friends for those twenty-one days. My travels as a group has come to an end. I am somewhat hesitant as to what the days as an individual traveler will hold in store for me. I do know that I will miss the comforts of a group, the laughter, the singing, the breathtaking scenery, and surprisingly the bumpy roads of beautiful south Africa!

(And yes I did cry [like waterfalls] as we all parted and went our separate ways)

dedi-CAT-ion

whereintheworld — Sun, 23 Sep 2007 17:08:00 GMT

We'd left the waters of the Okavango Delta and made our way to Chobe River National Park where we'd be spending the last of our Botswana days and nights.

We began with another incredibly early morning rise (it was still pitch black when we awoke) and prepared for our last game drive. Chobe is renowned for its massive population of elephants but we were setting our sights higher with the dedication and hopes of spotting the elusive leopard. If we were lucky then we would have spotted all of Africa's Big 5 (lion, elephant, buffalo, rhino, and leopard). As the sun began to rise we could make out the outline of our awaiting carriage. We were traveling in style, an open-aired pickup truck which meant that we'd also be very, very cold while driving. Mandy prepared herself by crawling into her sleeping bag and riding in the upright position cocoon style. I was very envious of her warmth and comfort. I also found irony in the bench-seating arrangement: naive, unprotected passengers sitting in an open-aired truckbed while the game/wildlife experts shouted information at us through a window opening as they sat in the cabin, safely encased by metal and glass (and also with a gun)...HA! As we rambled through the park we again saw elephants, zebra, and 'antelope' (springboks, kudu, oryx, etc). And sadly I began to realize how blase I was towards seeing the same animals over and over again. I was discomforted at this realization. I knew that in a few days these daily sightings would come to an end and I needed, I wanted to fell more euphoric, more exhilarated. It was just as I'd had my "eureka moment" that we pulled up to a unique sighting. Scattered throughout the river were crocs and hippos and amongst them was a mommy and her baby hippo. Unfortunately the mother had perished (from what no one knows) leaving behind the young hippo to fend for itself. As the baby nudged it's mother, perhaps for milk or a loving nudge in return, all she would do is spin in circles at the waters surface (due to decomposition, her body was filled with gas & floating). Surrounding the two of them, both on the shore and in the water, were the crocs idly waiting for their next meal. To my relief our guide informed us that the crocs main feeding would be on the mother's carcass once it was 'tender' enough, giving me the hope that the young calf would survive with the aid of the adult hippos nearby.

It was time to move on and so we left the banks of the river and drove in search of our leopard. These animals are known as tree loungers, so we continued to search every branch that whizzed overhead with the anticipation of spotting a big cat. It just so happened that as we looked up, we noticed a large number of vultures flying in circles above. Being from Florida and a lover of the outdoors, I recognized this as a sign that something in the vacinity was dead. Sure enough the next thing we came across were the remnants of an antelope-esque animal and the bones and leftover bits were being devoured by vultures. The guide told us that it was the scraps from a lion kill and just as he'd finished shouting this out to us, from his protective window, we came upon a litter of lion cubs with their mom ...and aunties...and possibly older brothers and sisters (WHEW, we almost have the whole extended family).

As she laid in the cool shade, full from her recent meal, the young cubs were clumsily climbing nearby treelimbs and stumbling over their too-big-for-them paws. We sat in silence, watching them in action, amazed that our presence caused no fear or stress and thank goodness since we were in an open truck! We had about 20 feet between predator and potential prey, I couldn't believe how close we were to them. I could even take photos without having to use the zoom and was thankful that they'd just had a nice, hearty meal!

Eventually we left the scene and continued to search for our leopard. As time passed so did our hopes of spotting one. We even had a tease as a fellow truck passed and informed us that they caught a quick glimmer of one in the trees. Our game drive came to an end and though our morning drive brought us close to many animals, both big and small, we never had the fortune of completing our Big 5 sighting. However we can't be too disappointed now, can we? As we saw amazing sights, things you'd only expect to see on the Discovery Channel. Plus, tonight we'll be enjoying the scenic boat cruise down the Chobe River and perhaps our luck will change.

Gallery: Zambia

whereintheworld — Sun, 23 Sep 2007 11:52:00 GMT

THANK YOU Uncle Doug & Aunt Leona

whereintheworld — Sat, 22 Sep 2007 18:11:00 GMT

Before going into today's adventure (FLYING) I'd like to give a quick thanks to my incredible, supportive family. Not only have they been there for me emotionally but also financially! Their contributions have been extremely helpful and unforgotten but I would especially like to acknowledge my Uncle Doug and Aunt Leona. Their 'support' came with the advice to do something exciting and memorable which is how I found myself flying (even though momentarily) a Cesna 70!!!

The size of the Okavango Delta is so immense that the chance of spotting wildlife is minimal (a lesson we learned whilst camping in the Delta), unless that is you get a birds-eye-view. For the event, we grouped off into 4 planes and in mine were 'the girls': me, Karen, Kirstie, Jess, and Sarah and boy was our pilot in trouble! Apparently the girls selected him because they felt he was the most attractive, I was busy trying to earn myself a seat in the co-pilot's chair (and successful was I).

As we soared over the delta you could see miles and miles of endless greenery which was intertwined with waters from the Okavango River and immediately after take-off we began to see heaps of animals. Our favorite were the hippos, as we saw them bathing in the river and plomping through the grasses. After 15 minutes of animal spotting our pilot, Johannes, gave us a thrill ride which began with a steep climb upward, quickly followed by a rapid descent! Good thing we'd strapped in because not only were we close to hitting our heads on the roof but our passenger door popped open! Being typical girls there was lots of screaming and giggling which made us oblivious to the door being ajar. Johannes turned around and in a very calm and placid voice said, "Your door is open, you may want to close that" which of course led to more high-pitched screams and again followed by laughter. Poor Sarah was closest to the door and was partially petrified and unable to close the it. Eventually little Jess had to reach over her and attempted to shut and properly lock the door. Good thing Sarah had her belt on, not only from the door being ajar but because our next maneouver was circles. Johannes took us back up and began to do tight circles. So tight that we were all in our neighbors lap and those unfortunate to be on the inside we completely squashed! Again more laughter and squeals to the (I think) delight of our pilot. Johannes also had a very keen eye for animal spotting so when he saw our favorites he would circle around so we could take plenty of photos. You may be wondering how he knew which ones we liked but, poor guy, didn't have a choice. As soon as one of us saw a hippo she'd quickly say, "Oh!!!! Look a hippo!" and the rest of us would reply in unison a high shriek of "Yay...a hippo!" and again more laughter plus clapping. As we were flying, Johannes looked at me and with a grin on his face asked if I wanted to fly the plane! You see, prior to take-off I'd told him of my interest in obtaining my pilot's license and being a fellow flying enthusiast he satiated my curiosity by giving me control of the aircraft (slightly scary, I know). The offer seemed incredulous and as I grabbed hold of the yoke or 'wheel' I rapidly jerked the plane to the right...oops! You see I thought the plane was on autopilot and that my control of the aircraft would be minimal but apparently I was mistaken and had full control!! My crew (the girls) were very supportive and with cheers in the background I was free to explore with lefts, rights, ups, and downs. It was such an adrenaline rush. Eventually our airtime came to an end and we gently landed the plane (followed by more giggles and applause to Johannes) and puttered our way to the loading zone. For me and, probably, Johannes too (seriously 5 girls in a small plane)this was an unforgettable experience full of wonder, excitement, and appreciation of the magic within the Delta.

OK DELTA

whereintheworld — Fri, 21 Sep 2007 18:44:00 GMT

The Okavango Delta is one of the world's largest inland water systems. It can expand to over 16,000 square kilometres and plays a major role in supporting the area's wildlife and we had the opportunity to explore it on mokoro canoes.

This little, hand-carved, wooden canoe sits you just above the waterline. Any sudden movements and we'd be sinking to the bottom of the delta! We folded our sleeping mats into a triangular shape which acted as a comfy chair with backrest. We'd also piled into our canoe the tent and an overnight bag for we were camping in the wild! Now our mokoro canoe wasn't like a regular canoe but more like the Venice gondola, complete with a driver who hummed songs. Using just a giant wooden stick or pole we formed a single-file line and weaved our way through the aquatic plants. Mandy and I were the lasat of the boats which was advantagous because we pulled back from the rest of the crowd and were able to sneak up behind an elephant and nearly collided with some Red Lechwe (rare type of antelope)!

Once we'd reached the island we were to camp on we quickly set everything up including the loo (bathroom). A hole (very deep) was dug and deemed the toiled. However it was very important that you let everyone know that the loo was being occupied and the sign was simple. If the shovel was in the upright position then someone was in there, if it was down the it was available. Heaven forbid it fell over or if someone, being a practical joker, removed it!

Since it was so hot, a popular activity was swimming in the channel but first it had to be deemed safe and free from crocodiles and hippos which it was. Surprisingly a strong current rips through there so we were constantly paddling against the current, another great workout. Of course once we were in, being typical 'us', we resumed to what we do everytime we're in the water. We start to form the human pyramid and throw each other around. Great fun but again a challenge against the current. After swimming it was nap time, oh the hard life of a traveler, and then time for our bushwalk.

The Okavanago Delta is great at supporting wildlife and we were on the 'hunt'. We began with a quick introduction on what to do if any of the following animals were to charge us: lion, leopard, elephant, and rhino. Unfortunately as I was trying to remember what to do for each situation, I only ended up confusing myself. Were you suppose to run as fast as possible (is scatter like crazy and out run your neighbor) or hold perfectly still from a charging rhino...I couldn't remember!! I decided I'd just do whatever my neighbors were doing. The beginning had a great start for us as we came across a small pack of elephants. We made certain to stay downwind of them but that was the beginning and end of our animal encounter. After that we only came across animal excrement and footprints. I can now, confidently, tell you not only what animal was present but how long since it had passed and if it was male or female...all by its poop! Cricky...I'm a regular Steve Irwin!

We ended the day around the campfire. We sang songs, played games, and had an amazing interaction with the locals, our mokoro polers. The next morning we had another 'hunt', packed up the site, and poled our way back to the mainland. Our adventure of camping in the delta had come to its end but the memories will last forever.

Gallery: Botswana

whereintheworld — Wed, 19 Sep 2007 23:51:00 GMT

With the Click of a Tongue

whereintheworld — Wed, 19 Sep 2007 13:17:00 GMT

We'd crossed the border and had entered into Botswana where, after an incredibly long bus ride, we stayed in Ghanzi. The next morning we woke early and had a Bushman walk with the San Bushmen of the Kalahari. I'm a huge fan of the films 'The Gods Must Be Crazy I & II' so I was extremely excited about this activity. Sure enough their attire and demeanor were just like that of the movies. They almost seemed like children with their small (yet extremely fit) physique and their jovial personas as they were constantly laughing and wearing HUGE grins on their faces. Normally the Bushmen tribes have little communication with foreigners (a term which refers to anyone who doesn't live in the Kalahari) but due to the discovery of diamonds in the desert these people were forced off the land that hundreds of generations have occupied and now live in dwellings near westernized cities. Since many of the elders don't speak English and none of us have mastered the click of the tongue we had an interpreter. From them we learned how they use the land to survive such dry and arid conditions like filling an ostrich egg with water which they bury for months at a time and return to it when needed. We also learned how they use plants for medicinal value, like birth control. However, it was heartwrenching to see that their move to a westernized society has had its affects on them with alcohol and cigarettes. Our interpreter informed us, for 10 years an appeal has been in court to allow the Bushmen to return to the desert but it wasn't until this year that it went through with approval. With this new approval many of them, mostly elders, will be returning to the desert sands. Unfortunately their numbers will be fewer than what they were before leaving. Sadly, the San Bushmen are a dying breed and their customs and traditions will probably go with them but I have hope that they will thrive.

Lions, Elephants, & Rhino...OH MY!

whereintheworld — Mon, 17 Sep 2007 23:28:00 GMT

Our second night in Etosha and it was still exciting to see and watch all the animals. A majority of our Acacia team was comfortably seated in the benches or leaning against the game-proof fence. That night the elephants were at it again with their head butting when one of them stopped and looked directly at me (well no but in my direction). My friend Duncan was sitting next to me and being a lover of taking animal photos, I had dubbed him as my personal photographer. "Duncan take the photo", I said as the elephant was making his way over. Again I said, "Duncan take the photo" this time with more urgency in my whisper. I continued to repeat myself with the hopes he would eventurally hear me. The elephant was in such close proximity that you could feel the anxiety in the air as people started to shift and move away from the wall (except us). In fact, one of our poor friends jumped up and hid behind a group of people from fear of the elephants approach. By now the elephant was still directly in front of us and still continuing forward. Apparently Duncan hadn't heard my mutterings and when he finally looked up he was quite surprised to see a massive elephant standing just feet in front of him. Poor Duncan was so shocked that he couldn't even function his camera properly and when he went to take a photo, little did he realize it was set on video. In all his fumblings he wasn't able to change the setting which, fortunately, gave us great video footage. In the end, the elephant was so close it could have reached out with its enormous trunk and literally pulled one of us over the fence! However, all it did was raise its trunk, give a few sniffs before a park ranger arrived ranting and shouting with a stick. By no means would I say this man saved the day but it was a great testament that the fences don't really do much and you're still amongst the 'wild'.

As the evening wore on you could hear the call of the lions. Initially they were far away but each call came closer & closer. It wasn't until midnight that they finally emerged. By now most of the human crowd had dissipated in addition to the animal crowd around the watering hole. Although it had taken hours before they'd arrived, a ranger informed us that they give teh call as a warning to let the other animals know that the "King" is approaching. It was also interesting because there were two of them and their calls let them know where the other is located. So you'd hear one call from the far left adn a few moments later a return call would come from the right. It was near midnight when we saw the first sign of their arrival. Amongst the darkness you could see two beady lights, their tapedum lucidum (found in nocturnal animals, it reflects light onto the retina giving them good night vision...yes i'm a bit of a nerd sometimes) reflecting back at us. They were crouched behind a bush patiently waiting their turn at the watering hole. Prior to that, you could still tell they were approaching simply by the actions of the other animals. You could almost feel the tension in the air as the calls were getting closer: the jackals were anxious, the giraffee were very hesitant & cautious now, only drinking one at a time while the rest kept watch like dutiful scout, and the zebras were nonexistant as they had high-tailed it out of the area. The only ones who appeared non-chalant about the situation were the elephants and rhinos. Apparently they have little fear with the lions and even when they arrived and crouching behind the bush the elephants continued on with their drinking and bathing in the hole. The lions patiently waited their turn and it wasn't until the elephants and rhinos were finished that they emerged and quenched their thirst. The two males appeared so thin and scruffy compared to what you see in the zoo but I guess it's much harder to work for your food than to be handfed. I guess it's a small price for freedom, huh?

Etosha

whereintheworld — Sun, 16 Sep 2007 19:34:00 GMT

We pulled into camp unsure of what to expect but we knew that we'd be seeing wild animals! The entry drive into the park already presented zebra, giraffee, oryx, and 'boks' (springbok, gemsboks, etc.) so we were ecstatic as to what the floodlit watering hole would have in store. Apparently our enthusiasm soon shifted when we'd heard there was a pool at the campsite! After over a week of roasting in the hot, desert sun and having dust and sand constantly stuck to your body it was a sweet relief to jump into the large pool. However, once we were all satiated and completed our group "chores" (yes we actually had chores while on this overland) we rushed to the waterhole.

We were staying at Camp Okaukuejo, one of 3 within the Etosha park. These campgrounds are fortified to prevent the animals from entering but many have a viewable waterhole to watch animals. The watering hole is outside the campground (inside the park grounds) but semi-lit up by floodlights and the people are semi-protected by a waisthigh game-proof fence. Watching these animals feels quite surreal as tradition would have me think I was in a zoo. I had to constantly remind myself that they (the animals) were the ones in the 'wild' while I was the one in a 'cage', for my own protection.

Now days in the desert are too hot for any activity beyond sleeping but as the sun sets and temperatures cool the excitement really begins. It's during the night that the animals being to congregate around the manmade watering hole and, honestly, it's a strange sensation to see them interact with one another. I was expecting to see them taking turns: first the elephants, then the rhino, followed by the giraffee, etc. but it's more of a hodgepodge. Each species mixed and mingled among the next yet keeping a weary eye on its neighbor. My favorite was watching the giraffee take drinks. Their poor bodies, too long and gangily to reach the water, requires them to spread out their front legs (as if doing a split) and then bending down their long, long necks to lapse up the water. The younger ones wibble and wobble thier way down, looking as if they'll topple over any minute while the elders do it with such grace and finesse they could be a ballerina. The other animal that caught my fancy were the elephants. They march in their large herds with the babies safely tucked between the larger ones. I couldn't help but reminisce on films from my childhood like 'The Jungle Book' and 'Dumbo'. They really do appear to be swaying and walking to their own rhythm. Once they've gathered at the watering hole they really begin to interact with one another. I don't know if it's just males or females, or between family members or different families but begin to headbutt one another. At first it's gentle but eventually they end in a headlock involving interlocking tusks and trunks. Plus the sound they make is unforgettable. I can only describe it as a dry, raspy sound. It's as if you pulled two tree trunks out of the ground (bark and all) and began to rub them against one another! In addition to this they're ear flapping and creating HUGE dust clouds. They every once in awhile you'll hear an earsplitting shriek as one of them toots his 'horn'. Now that'll raise the hair on your arms!

As the night goes by you expect the number of animals to decline but they just go in rotation. When one heard leaves they next replaces it. Nights at the Etosha watering hole were unforgettable as we saw elephants, giraffee, lions, and even the elusive black rhino.

CAMP OKAUKUEJO