I wondered out early, and Just down the road was a wood fired oven being used by the local Banh Mi man. Early morning walk. Tick. On my return a discussion on the weather forecast was held. With five different weather app’s on the go, it was all doom and gloom with another definite chance of rain, thunder and lightening. The locals, however, said that it would not rain. We chose to believe the locals and they were right. We headed off toward A Loui with bright sunshine, clear sky all the way, until the very end when we got a bit more momentum into the whole exercise in case we had the same situation as the day before with the weather. It never eventuated. Sunshine all day apart from a few drops, not even a shower.
The last time that Gary and Vicky had traveled these roads in the mountains they had misty weather every day so really did not get to appreciate the scenery so much. This time round it was blue sky, zero mist and views to die for. Instead of only one mountain range in front of you, we got to appreciate several rows of mountains into the distance. The parts of the road where there was little hill tribe habitation contained nothing but old growth forest. I will never be able to describe the feeling of being in the company of big old grandfather trees, surrounded by larger than life tree ferns and birds nest plants. The ground is an impenetrable mass of ferns, interspersed with the occasional roadside waterfall in a gulley. There is nothing like this to make you feel like an insignificant speck on the face of the earth. Even over the helmet wind and engine noise you could here the sound of the forest birds.
Of course, there is always a yin to the yang in life. The pockets of inhabitation from the ethnic villagers (at this stage – Co Tu tribe) is surrounded by logging, and very, very poor subsistence farmers. Similar to Australia, where the indigenous communities are the poorest, it is the same in Vietnam. The government has made an effort to house people in small community settlements, along with a wholesale corrugation iron roofing in the area. Considering the rain they get, I should think this a complete blessing. After discussions, I have come to the opinion that I have different ideas on the quality of life of lots of these communities. Sure, there is a community where all the children are innocent and play happily together, but then I see the women doing more than the lion’s share of the agricultural and home / child care work, while the men idle the day away, drinking beer and gambling. I know, I know, it is a different culture, it still makes me sad and angry. One of these days, the young girls will get enough education to realize that there is more to life. Rant over.
So we arrive at A Luoi. Book into our rooms, and I quickly do a wash of my riding gear before we go and find some lunch at the café next door. Pho Bo gets an all round thumbs up. Out with the map app to find the road to Hamburger Hill. Too easy.Hamburger Hill. It is a good thing we did the map app because there is ZERO signposting to get to this out of the way hill. Finally we hear the dulcet tones of “you have arrived at your destination “. Hamburger Hill was termed because of the mess it made of soldiers due to the fighting. Officially it is the Don Ap Bia mountain, 1.9 km from the Laotion Border. I think that Colonel Conmy who ordered the capturing of the hill was having a severe testosterone crisis, because none of us could imagine any strategic importance of capturing this hill. Over the ten day battle a total of 72 were KIA and 372 were WIA using 500 tons of ordinance.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Hamburger_Hill .
Even in the relatively cool temperatures of the mountains (compared to Hoi An), the humidity was murderous. I am pretty sure I know my answer to Colonel Conmy if he said go forth and capture the hill. Mmmm. Answer…No, I think I will sit down and have a cup of tea and listen to the radio thanks.
One of the advantages of little side trips like this is, travelling quite country roads as opposed to the main roads. This is real countryside, housing and communities. On the way back a man on a motorbike waved to us as we turned a corner and made us follow him and we found a much easier way back to the main road. Why does a map app invariably take you a very round a bout way. Things to ponder!
We then traveled to the A Loui Markets. They were huge, a rabbit warren of food, drinks and clothes stalls in no apparent order. We bought some roast bbq pork straight off the spit to eat while wandering around. Desert snack time and we find Vietnamese style doughnuts. Grease licking good. (we are on a gym holiday here folks!). Gary and Vicky bought a set of real wet weathers, pants included for only $12. Riding from the market Gary finds a traditional type building he wants to see. It is a huge sporting complex in the process of being built with a local town hall ready for performances. We have found a venue for the yet to be formed A Luoi Lawn Bowls club. Ha ha.
That night sees us in the hotel restaurant for dinner. We only agreed to go there because the hotel owner was quite insistent that we should. Big mistake. Underline, bold face, Italics here. The food was not nice, and severely over priced. We find out if she has breakfast, what time, etc etc, but then decide after eating the food, and paying the bill, that we will go for a walk and find the local opla, café sua da for breakfast. (egg baquette and vietnamese coffee). A much better option.
