Trekking the Larapinta Trail- This was my first solo multiday hike trekking The Larapinta trail in the West Macdonnell Ranges on Arrernte Country.
Day 1 – Serpentine Gorge to Ellery Creek North
First day on the trail and was feeling nervous and excited. I got dropped off at the trail head at Serpentine Gorge, took a look around at the map and info and suddenly realised I had forgotten to get my trekking poles out of the car. I had no reception to contact the guide and was worrying about how I was going to get ahead without poles. This is when the reality sunk in that I only had myself and I just had to deal any challenge that came my way. I saw another hiker coming along at the trail head (solo female) she advised me to find a stick as it’s what she had been using along the trail.
The first few kilometres I passed a few hikers (two of whom were solo females). This section was 13.7km and the weather was perfect conditions. I was feeling content with the sunshine, walking on a reasonably easy track (knowing tough times are ahead) and listening to my music. I arrived to camp at Ellery Creek North around 2:30pm and found a nice camp spot on the sand. I went to check out the famous Ellery Creek waterhole and went for a quick dip- it was freezing but felt good for the muscles. I went to bed around 7pm and it was dead quiet. I took a look at the stars and they were incredible- you could clearly see the Milky Way.
Day 2- Ellery Creek North to Rocky Gully Campground
I woke up in the morning and was absolutely freezing. I had ice on my tent and bag (apparently sleeping on sand is colder). It took me a long time to get ready so I didn’t hit the trail to 9:45am (rooky mistake). I was heading to Rocky Gully Campground approx 15km. The section from Ellery Creek to Hugh Gorge is regarded the longest and least scenic section of the trail. This was a tough day. My feet were starting to blister, my bag was straining my neck and I was feeling the dry desert heat. This section was like walking on mars, it was undulating sections of hills and the valley trapped the heat. Approx 1km out of Rocky Gully campground I was feeling so dehydrated to the point where I felt I was going to collapse. I was having a short break and having something to eat and came across a bunch of hikers. They must have thought I looked terrible as they asked twice if I was okay. I told them I was going to Rocky Gully and they said it was only about a kilometre away. Managing how much water I need to consume over trail sections was something I was still learning to manage. I always like to have one litre in the case of an emergency. So over the 15km I only had 2 litres of water. 15 minutes after running into the hikers I arrived to the campground and was so relived. A few Tassie hikers were at the campground and they were so friendly. As the campground was in a valley the heat and flys were so uncomfortable. I managed to set up my tent while trying to keep the flys and massive ants out. The ground was rocky and I thought I had punctured my air mattress, this along with feeling utterly exhausted left me in tears. I couldn’t stop crying but after talking to the Tassie hikers they said that most people feel like this the first few days. I had dinner with them and then got an early night.
Day 3- Rocky Gully to Hugh Gorge
I wanted to get an earlier start today. I woke up feeling better then yesterday and managed to hit the trail by 8am. I was walking to Huge Gorge campground approx 14km. This day was a lot easier going. I made sure to drink a litre of water before trekking and taking extra water. I felt I had more time to take in the views today by having small breaks every 5km. At one of the breaks I stopped to sit on a rock with a view over Hugh View. About five minutes into my break hundreds of ants came out of a hole running around me. It constantly felt like there was no down time on the trail- there was always something to be prepared for! Around 2km out from Hugh Gorge I noticed my hands had become swollen the size of balloons, to the point where some of my nails were bleeding. I panicked and thought I had been bitten by something. I knew another hiker was at the trail head so I walked with a fast pace to the campground to show him. He said that because I’m wearing a heavy backpack and not using poles there is a lack of circulation moving to my hands. I was relieved to hear I wasn’t dying but this was a reality check in how inexperienced I was in bushwalking/hiking first aid. There were a few people at this trail head this night and we had lots of good chats. I asked another hiker who was previously walked the whole trail if he ever questioned why he was doing it, he replied “every day”. A few of us decided to set off together in the morning to tackle the water hole crossing in section 5.
Day 4- Hugh Gorge to Fringe Lily Creek
We set off at 7:30am today. I planned to complete the whole of section 5. It is classified a grade 5 hike due to steep sections and technical parts of the trial. Another hiker told me “If you can get through section 5 of the Larapinta you can do anything in life”. The trail started with rock hopping through a gully. We had to cross a water hole which on the sides is waist deep but to get through the middle you have to swim. There were a few people already at the water hole who offered to take our bags across. One of the hikers scaled the rock and we took our bags across and lifted it up to her. Then we swam through the middle. The water was freezing but probably good for the muscles. The two hikers I were with were much more experienced and a faster. I told them to go ahead and I would catch them at the next break.
This was when things got bad. Because I was focused on trying to catch up with them I wasn’t fully paying attention to the arrows on the trees (I also assumed that there was only one way through the gully to the other side). I ended up at another water hole and assumed I had to go through this as I had heard someone say they used a mat to carry their bag through a water hole. The water looked shallow so I started walking through it and then realised how deep the water was and slippery the rocks were. I started to scale the rocks with my pack and a stick I was using as a pole. It started to become really difficult to scale the rock and the water hole was around 20m long. I panicked and questioned if this was actually the right way, but then assumed it must have been because it’s meant to be a technical section. Because I was in panic mode I just thought I’ll get to the other side and then there will be a marker. The rocks became too hard to scale so I blew up my mattress and put my bag and shoes on it. I jumped in and swam to the other side. The water was so cold I thought I going to go into shock. I got to the other side and all I could see was further water holes. I was panicking now as I knew this wasn’t right, but also worried as to how I would manage swimming back in the cold. Around five minutes later I could see a bunch of hikers- I assumed I was now on the right track. I waved to them and asked them if I was still on the trail- they said I wasn’t and would come across to help. Two of the guys scaled the rocks and helped me carry my bag back across. I swam back in the freezing water with my mat and lucky they were there as the current was so strong and I could have easily drowned. One of the hikers was a Larapinta trek guide (lucky). But I was feeling so embarrassed. They were all so friendly and helpful, they carried some of my clothes, sleeping bag and mat to help them dry out and they offered to walk with me to the next campground- Fringe Lily Creek. The guide advised me The Larapinta is a very hard trail to do on your own, especially as a first time solo trek. He gave me good advice and tips for next time. From this experience I don’t think I would hike solo again. It truly terrified me and I don’t know what would have happened if the hikers didn’t come to check out the water hole.
Day 5- Fringe Lily Creek to Section 4/5
The other hikers offered me to walk with them again today. I told them I would just take it easy as I get stressed if I have to keep up with others. I started walking at 7:30am. The first section of the trail was steep but offered amazing views. About an hour into the trail I met some hikers at the top who asked if I was Liana. The two hikers I left with yesterday met hikers coming this way and wanted them to check up. I chatted to them for a while and explained what happened. I told them how much pain I was in with mt knees and blisters and they gave me pain relief – so nice! They advised me that the next bit of the section is quite tough- It’s called Razorback Ridge. This section I can only describe as like walking on razorblades. It was up high, loose rocks and walking on a ridge. It was also hard to locate the trail however, I stuck to the advice someone had gave me which was to walk on the top of ridge. I kept my eyes forward because looking behind at how high up I was and how easily I could fall was terrifying (another moment where I questioned why I was doing this). I later found out there was someone rescued from this section a day prior due to having a panic attack. I smashed out Razorback Ridge and took a quick look at the view before descending into a gully. I was so relieved that part was over and the next part was rock hopping for a few hours. It was uncomfortable but nothing compared to what I had been through. I got to the trail head at 2:30 and had a chill afternoon. I watched a crow attempt to get close to my bag for hours. I had my eye on the crow but when I went to the toilet I came back and my clothes and bag were ruffled up. That night I also had a mice chewing through my bag. No such thing as peace here as there was always something to deal with! I had downloaded many podcasts and books to listen too but realised from day one there would be no time to relax. I went to bed super early as I planned to walk the whole of section 4 tomorrow.
Day 6- Section 4/5 to Standley Chasm
Woke up super early today as I had 17km and grade 5 trek ahead of me. Everyone had warned me that Brinkley Bluff was regarded the hardest and steepest part of the whole trail. I set off at 7am. The first few kilometres were easy, walking through bush and a creek bed. There was then a slow steep part before the beginning the really tough part. On the way up I saw a couple coming down and the lady was crying explaining how exhausted she was and felt she could not continue on. I emphasised with her as I knew exactly how she felt. The hike up to Brinkley Bluff was steep switchbacks but not as bad as I thought it would be (probably because I had trekked very steep sections in Nepal). I got to the top fairly fast, I think the fact that I knew I would have reception and could talk to my mum and my sis spurred me on. The views were absolutely unreal and seeing them made it all worth it. There was a 73 year old woman at the top. Not sure how she made it but what a legend.
I stayed up the top for a bit and told my mum I was safe. Then knew I had to get going as I had about four hour descent down to Standley Chasm. The descent was along ridge tops and again was dodgy. The trail was confusing at times but I knew I had to remain calm and backtrack to avoid getting lost. It was up and down all the way to Standley. I much preferred trekking west to east as the other way would have been tougher up/down to Brinkley. I got to Standley just after 5pm and saw my friend who I started hiking with the other day. She gave me a hug and said she couldn’t sleep worrying that something had happened to me the other day. She quickly told me to go to the cafe because it was about to shut. I got a coke just in time and cried of happiness. My clothes were covered in dirt, I smelt disgusting and could barely walk. We checked out Standley Chasm and it was such a good time to go because no one was around. On the walk out of the chasm I felt this warm air run over me. I’m not a spiritual person but it was like the spirits were looking out for me- amazing.
In total I walked 105km along the trial from sections 7-4. What I have written about the Larapinta probably comes off quite negative. I feel that while I was trekking I couldn’t fully appreciate the experience as I was focused on getting through each day and combating challenges. However, despite the challenges my experience on the Larapinta I will remember forever. Such a special and unique part of the world and how lucky I am be able to be amongst it. The support I received from other hikers I will be forever grateful.
