I spent 3 nights/2 days in Bodhgaya then caught a train to Varanasi. This time I reserved a room in advance - it was a good thing I did because I arrived during a festival and again, most of the guesthouses were full. The streets were closed off and the tuk-tuk driver dropped me off far from where I needed to go. I had no idea where my guesthouse was, and nobody I asked recognized the name. So I wandered around for a couple of hours - the whole town was a blaze of color, costumes and pageantry. I would have enjoyed it more if it weren't for the heavy pack on my back. I finally found someone who helped me out and called the guesthouse; so they then dispensed someone to walk me to the place. After following the guy through the twisty maze-like pathways, I realized that I would have never found it on my own, even in the daylight. I went exploring the next day and was completely awed by this city. The old city is made up of narrow cobblestone lanes with walls rising up on each side - nestled inside the walls are little shops and food stalls. Many people walk barefoot down the lanes, though you really need to watch your step as there are lots of cows wandering the lanes, and so lots of cow dung to step over. People often touch the cows with respect when they pass by, and I saw them treat the many stray dogs with kindness, giving them food and something to sleep on. It wasn't unusual to hear people chanting OM Shiva as they passed by, and there were monkeys everywhere - this was my first exposure to monkeys hanging out in a town. They stayed a healthy distance away, but were always hanging out on the rooftops and buildings watching everything. The ghats were interesting for people-watching, and every night there was a gorgeous ceremony at the main ghat that drew hundreds of locals (as well as hundreds of tourists). At night people set little candle boats (containing flowers and a candle) afloat on the ganges with a wish - I did this too; and watched as my boat set off in the darkness, joining others as they journeyed on towards the other shore. The hundreds of flickering golden lights on the black water looked like a starfield.
