I decided to catch a plane out of Kolkata and go to Bodhgaya - I only have a basic route etched out, but nothing reserved or planned so I am basically arranging things a day or two in advance. I was hoping Bodhagaya would be a place of respite, a haven from the noise and chaos that had been my experience of India so far.
I thought I'd just be able to secure a room once I got to Bodhgaya; I usually try to reserve a place online if I'm going to arrive somewhere late, but I couldn't find anything on Hostelworld or Hostelbookers, so I just went on anyway thinking that it would be easy to find a room. I had no idea that the New Tibetan Karmapa was in town drawing hundreds of monks and visitors from all over - at least that was the explanation when I went looking for a room and everything was booked. I ended up finding a dumpy room, but at least it was in a good location very near the Mahabodhi Temple. The town of Bodhgaya is dusty, dirty and chaotic too, just on a smaller scale. The saving grace of Bodhgaya is the Mahabodhi temple complex that marks the spot where Buddha became enlightened. There are also gorgeous buddhist temples representing every region scattered around Bodhgaya. Peace and beauty abound inside the temple grounds. It's huge, with a beautiful stupa and gardens; and there were thousands of monks, nuns and laypeople meditating, doing prostrations and chanting in many different languages. I sat under the bodhi tree and listened to all the different languages and rhythms drifting through the air like incense. I did find some much needed connection here, time to meditate and wander through the peaceful gardens. You can't help but feel the energy created here with thousands of people praying - it creates an almost hypnotic field. Wandering outside the temple grounds into the square is a bit of a shock though- so many beggars mosty targeting tourists and pilgrims. One teenaged boy with deformed or broken legs pulled himself up to me and grabbed me around the ankles until I gave him some money. I do give a lot but try not to give to children as I know they are working for someone else, but it's hard sometimes - and was particularly hard in this situation. I'm sure he's making a living doing this; who could just shake him off? If I gave as much as everybody needs and wants, I'd be right out there with them. When, where, and how to draw the line is difficult and stressful. It feels very wrong to just walk by and ignore these people living in such wretched circumstances, but that's what you learn to do.
