Ban Lung sounded interesting because of the jungle trekking opportunities; since it wasn't far from Kratie I decided to go there ($6 by bus). It isn't much of a town really, dusty and small - there is a large market, several guesthouses to choose from and a few good restaurants, that's about it. There were other tourists, but far fewer than I've encountered elsewhere, and no hassle to buy stuff from the shop owners and market vendors. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to do the jungle trekking because it would have been way too expensive for just myself and there wasn't another group I could join with the next day and I didn't want to wait around for one. This is one of the downsides to traveling alone. So instead of that, I went to see a remote village cemetery, another Ban Lung draw for those who know about it. I went with the guy who managed my guesthouse - it was a long ride via motorcycle, then we hired a boat to the village where the cemetery is located (2-hr boat ride each way). I was the only tourist there (which was great) but I felt a little awkward really because I would rather not see something than participate in any kind of exploitation. The guy reassured me that the admission they charge for seeing the cemetery ($1) is much needed and helps them, so they don't mind the occaisional tourist. They said I could walk around the village, which I did, but it felt strange and sad, their way of life definitely seems endangered though they appeared to be completely self-contained and self-reliant. Complete simplicity, they even fashioned their own tools, however, the modern world has arrived and they had a village store full of stuff wrapped in plastic. The Kachon people are animists, believe in reincarnation and their cemetery was fascinating. The effigies represent the man and woman, mother and father and children are all buried in this family plot full of familiar things and symbols. They sometimes plant banana trees inside the enclosures; if the banana tree grows well it is a sign that the person has achieved a good afterlife/rebirth.
I also rented a bike and rode out to visit the waterfalls and volcanic lake; the lake is gorgeous and has a path around it as well as little huts that you can rent for the day. I got a little nature fix there; have enjoyed my travels but miss the woods.
